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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got some time to install these. Here's some pictures and helpful hints.

Pictures of brakelines before installation
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After taking your wheels off you'll see the brake line attached with a 12mm bolt, remove the bolt.
 

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Where the brake line attaches to the metal line from the car, there is a retaining bracket holding the connection in place. Remove the bracket with a screw driver.
 

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Then using a couple of wrenches disconnect the brakeline from the brakepipe. I strongly suggest you use a flare wrench here. I'm only using the adjustable wrench because I was too cheap to go and buy one. The nuts are all brass and strip very easily. DO NOT use a crescent wrench. It will completely strip the brake pipe side of the connection.

After removal, cap the brake pipe so it doesn't leak brake fluid while you're removing the rest of the brakeline.
 

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With a 12mm socket, remove the banjo bolt attaching the brakelines to the calipers. After which your brakeline should be completely removed.
 

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Now for the installation:
Place the new banjo bolt into the end of the steel brake line (it only fits on one end so it's pretty idiot proof). Make sure you have washers on either side. Then attach the banjo bolt to the caliper. The StopTech brakelines came with banjo bolts but if your kit didn't come with them then I guess you'll have to re-use the stock bolts.
 

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Now it's time to connect the new brakeline to the brakepipe. Remove the rubber hat you put on the pipe to keep it from leaking. Screw the brake line connector onto the brake pipe connector. Again I suggest you use the flare wrench as a crescent wrench would surely strip the brass fittings. Then re-attache the bracket you removed earlier with a screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And finally reattach the 12mm bolt you and you're pretty much done. Don't forget to bleed your brakes to get all the air out of the hoses. Here's a picture of the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The rear brakelines are held on in the middle by another retaining bracket rather than a 12mm bolt. Just push it out with a screw driver. Other than that everything in the back are the same as the front.
Also for those people who don't know what a flare wrench is here's a picture of one. The wrench on top is the flare wrench. The one on the bottom is your normal crescent wrench with a box wrench on the other end.
 

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nicely done. that mod is high on my list. $153 isn't bad. how much fluid leaks out? did you then do a full bleed? if so, how much fluid is necessary? thanks.
 

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I only used up about a quarter of a liter of brake fluid. It's not so much a leak as much as a constant drip. So you're not losing too much. I didn't do a full flush, just bled enough to make sure all the air is out of the brake lines. As for price, Stoptech charged me about $150. Not too pricey, but no real cheap either :).
 

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I would think this would be a good time to go ahead and do a complete flush with ATE superblue or RBF600....from what I've read so far the brake fluid is the only real weakness on the track...
 

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Nice instructions and pictures, hughbob. Thanks!

But shouldn't this be in Modifications?
 

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I have a set of STI brake lines that will be delivered in the next couple of days (they sent me the WRX ones), if anybody is interested in the STI ones let me know because I have since obtained another set that I installed on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
tecnic1 said:
I would think this would be a good time to go ahead and do a complete flush with ATE superblue or RBF600....from what I've read so far the brake fluid is the only real weakness on the track...
Actually I had already replace my brake fluid with Motul RBF600 a couple months ago. That's why I didn't do a complete flush.
 

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hughbob,

nice job on the installation instructions...thanks. I'm getting some from cobb soon so this really helps. Did you notice any difference in feel? Also, what was the name of those bleeders you told me about at Texas World Speedway?
 
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