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I ended up using the 2in x30feet its like $58 on eBay and i would get a 2in x15ft if u plan on duing any radiator, or turbo heat shield wrapping.
2 inches by 30 feet? That doesn't sound right. All i've seen it come in is 12" or 24" wide x 12" + long. Besides, why would you want to work with 2 inch wide material?
 

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I just bought a 2x30 roll from amazon. 57 and change. This will be for this exact airbox too + some damage control on a Roo Duct.
 

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I think the problem is with airflow, the reason the fender get's so hot is because there's hot engine bay air getting in there. After autox runs the very top of it feels like it might as well be in the engine bay compartment. So the airflow isn't really going the way one would expect and it's just getting pushed and/or trapped in that spot between the fender and the wheel liner with the hottest obviously rising to the top.
Severe, do you mean the airflow that's coming from an outside or the one that can be returned to a fender from an engine bay? I've also heard that GR's somehow sucks back engine bay air into fender. Is there any way to block that (i.e. mimic GD air flow)? I never owned a GD STI, so I have nothing to compare to.
 

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I never owned a GD either. It seems the high pressure in the engine compartment just forces hot air into the fenders. so it really doesn't make much difference that the filter is surrounded by a box from only 3 sides.

I just did 2 things this weekend. Took off the backing plate off the fog surround (where the mesh is) and removed the little flap on the vents behind the rear tire. That made a significant difference, IAT still a bit higher than stock box but slightly so, and more so during stop and go. I recommend everyone do that because the temps with the fog surround closed are ridiculously high. They should have had that step as part of the instructions.
 

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Thanks Severe, that's some great info! Just a couple of questions..

Took off the backing plate off the fog surround (where the mesh is)
I don't have fogs, just regular covers instead. Do I need to remove this cover or maybe make holes in it or there's another one inside that you're talking about?

and removed the little flap on the vents behind the rear tire.
Hmmm, what's that? Is there any picture that you can use to point that out?

Do you also have AEM CAI?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
but for the 11-12 GRs its a little more difficult,ours are completely blocked off unless someone cuts the plastic and adds there own mesh..

not my pictures

from a member on here:



I never owned a GD either. It seems the high pressure in the engine compartment just forces hot air into the fenders. so it really doesn't make much difference that the filter is surrounded by a box from only 3 sides.

I just did 2 things this weekend. Took off the backing plate off the fog surround (where the mesh is) and removed the little flap on the vents behind the rear tire. That made a significant difference, IAT still a bit higher than stock box but slightly so, and more so during stop and go. I recommend everyone do that because the temps with the fog surround closed are ridiculously high. They should have had that step as part of the instructions.
 

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I don't have fogs, just regular covers instead. Do I need to remove this cover or maybe make holes in it or there's another one inside that you're talking about?



Hmmm, what's that? Is there any picture that you can use to point that out?

Do you also have AEM CAI?

Thank you!
No I have the Cobb SF intake, which is a shortram with a 3 sided box around it.

Regarding the fog surrounds. The fog piece has a backing plate and mesh that was easy to remove so that's what I did. If you don't have the fogs it going to be up you to figure out what you want to do. You can remove it copletely, or put some slits in it or get some replacement ducts. Point is it needs to be letting air through. If you have a CAI I'd be also concerned about making it too open to the elements.

The rubber piece I mentioned is located on the plastic panel that's removed in this picture.

To get that off you remove the front most two clips in the rocker panel from below the car. Open the door, pull the rocker panel out of it's clips at the very front. Then pull the piece with STI on it off starting at the top. The rubber piece also just pulls off. You can see most of this by searching for the rally armor install video, it's the first steps.

I just removed the flap and won't be drilling holes as this shows. If anything I'd put a vent into the wheel liner instead of drilling holes in metal.
 

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No I have the Cobb SF intake, which is a shortram with a 3 sided box around it.
Hmmm, I'm a bit confused now... I though that you have CAI sitting in a fender. How does an air flow in a fender effects your SF intake if it takes air from the same point as stock box does? I can inly think about some extra radiant heat coming from the fender that may effect SF intake... I remember you mentioned that. I'm not sure I have a clear picture on how does a boxed SF intake sits. Any adjacent walls with a fender?

If you have a CAI I'd be also concerned about making it too open to the elements.
Yeah, I was planning to open the flow more but had these conserns about dust and etc...

The rubber piece I mentioned is located on the plastic panel that's removed in this picture.

To get that off you remove the front most two clips in the rocker panel from below the car. Open the door, pull the rocker panel out of it's clips at the very front. Then pull the piece with STI on it off starting at the top. The rubber piece also just pulls off. You can see most of this by searching for the rally armor install video, it's the first steps.

I just removed the flap and won't be drilling holes as this shows. If anything I'd put a vent into the wheel liner instead of drilling holes in metal.
Thank you for the info, I appreciate that! :)
 

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So, along these lines as I plan on DEI taping my Cobb box this week, has anyone ever modified the snorkel (black intake piece from the radiator support to the silencer) to direct air INTO the Cobb air box? This came up in a discussion when I picked the car up and was going to look at my options once I had everything torn apart.
 

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So, along these lines as I plan on DEI taping my Cobb box this week, has anyone ever modified the snorkel (black intake piece from the radiator support to the silencer) to direct air INTO the Cobb air box? This came up in a discussion when I picked the car up and was going to look at my options once I had everything torn apart.
Perhaps it's different on the GD, but the GR version utilizes the OE snorkel already.
 

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Perhaps it's different on the GD, but the GR version utilizes the OE snorkel already.
For my 07, the snorkle sits right at the inner fender wall. The concept was to block off the end and cut a hole in the sideto allow the air directly into the box. I'd have to look at how to seal the front of the box around the new hole though.
 

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Just wrapped the SF Intake + airbox and TMIC.

Before the mod the car seemed to have gobs of power just shortly after warming up. After running it hard, and going through traffic etc it seemed to lose power. After this mod I notice more power throughout the entire rpm range all day long.
 

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I taped the bottom, but not the top. The radiated heat the tape blocks is primarily coming from the bottom, and the top gets lots of air cooling once you are moving.

I didn't wrap the y pipe on the back side of the intercooler. Should I?
On a side note, I've made progress with blocking out hot air with the HVAC tape on the SF box. This morning I taped around the outside edge of the box at the top and also placed a small piece over the small hole where the MAF sensor wire comes in. I noticed 10 degree difference during driving and 20 degrees lower at a stoplight. With almost all the tape inside the box, it is barely noticeable. I tried taping across the bottom of the snorkel, but I was not successful there. You have to lift the snorkel to access the screw to attach the top of the box and I did not leave enough extra tape to keep it connected.
 

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Thanks.

You really dont have to wait till weather is in the 90's. The underhood heat is still incredible even in the 70's just from block, exhaust and radiator heat. Pay special attention to the opening still left around the maf area. The filter will suck more engine compartment heated air in around that area than anywhere else.

I just wanted maf sensor to be cooler, anything after than suck as turbo inlet wrapping I figured wasnt needed.

Sorry, I know this is a bit of an older thread. I'm actually wrapping my Cobb SF box with the Reflect-A-Gold today. I also have been thinking about a good way to cover the large opening where the velocity stack enters the air box. I was just wondering if anyone has done this and how they did it? Pictures would be great!

Thanks
 
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