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Today I installed my new Deatschwerks DW65c drop-in fuel pump for the GR/GVF. An uprated fuel pump is part of the list of modifications that need to be done when going for a big turbo installation. This will ensure adequate fuel supply to the bigger injectors. I will be installing my GTX3076 turbo this week so I decided to install the fuel pump in advance so as to minimize work on D-day.

Prior to the DW65c fuel pump, the Walbro 255 pump was used for the GR/GVF. This however was not a drop-in solution since it required modifications to the pump housing and was a tight fit to the canister. With this new pump, say goodbye to modifications.

A big help in the installation came from the write-up at NASIOC which I followed: New DW65c Fuel Pump step-by-step install - NASIOC
I decided to add additional pictures and tips of my own experience.

First thing that has to be done is to release the fuel pressure. This is best done the night before by removing the fuse to the fuel pump in the fusebox located at the engine compartment. Start the car until the engine dies. Put back the fuse. Pop open the gas tank lid and loosen cover.

Next is to remove the negative terminal from the battery. According to the FSM:


It would be helpful to move the front drivers and passengers seats forward and back rest in the full forward position to create more room for you to work at the back. The rear seat cushion is then removed:



Once removed, this is what you should see:


The access panel for the fuel pump is the silver panel on the passengers side (nearest to the rear right passengers side door):


The 4 screws holding the panel are removed. Take note of the panel orientation. What I like to do is take pictures of every panel and item prior to disassembly using my iphone and review them afterwards so that I am sure that I don't get any of the reassembly orientation/positions wrong.

Once removed, this is what you should see:


Disconnect the harness to the fuel pump. It would be nice to disconnect the zip tie also holding the wiring in place. Use a thin pick to disengage the teeth:


Next is to clean up the panel. Use a damp rag or paper towel and remove any dirt or debris on the surrounding area. You wouldn't want to contaminate your fuel tank:


The 3 fuel hose connectors will now have to be disconnected. Remember that there will still be some residual fuel pressure and the system and fuel will trickle out no matter what you do. You can't avoid it. What you want to do is minimize the amount of spillage. I first put a piece of cloth under the connector to catch the spill. Then using your fingers or a needlenose pliers, squeeze on the 2 release tabs then pull out the connector:


NASIOC pic:


Do the rest with the other 2 connectors.

TIP: After releasing the first passenger-side connector (rightmost), fuel continued to drip and soak the cloth for a few minutes. I assumed that there was still residual pressure left in the system causing the fuel to continue to egress. I lightly placed back the connector and decided to work on the leftmost (driver-side) connector. True enough just after pulling the connector, there was a hiss as excess pressure was relieved. Do not completely remove the connector till the hissing stops -- then pull the connector out. Going back to the first connector, you will notice that the fuel stopped dripping out already. Then work on the middle connector. In retrospect, I think it would be good to start on the leftmost (driver's side) connector first.

Once all fuel lines are out, tuck them aside so as not to interfere with the work area. Wipe off any remaining dirt. Next will be to remove the surrounding bolts that hold the black frame down. The black frame holds the entire pump assembly down against the fuel tank since there is a spring assembly in the canister which serves as a resistance. You will see this later. Using a 8mm socket ratchet would make removal easier. Loosen all bolts first before you remove them. Push down on the canister prior to removing the bolts so it doesn't spring up and cause tension on the black frame, causing you to lose the bolts undercarriage:




The fuel pump assembly can now be lifted up. There is a surrounding rubber gasket that you can either pull out together with the assembly or take out separately. It doesn't matter. Remember the orientation of this rubber gasket since it only installs back in a specific direction due to the 3 rubber nipples.

TIP: The fuel level floater is located on the drivers side of the assembly. Be sure that it clears the hole prior to pulling up the assembly otherwise it might get damaged. The trick is to tilt the canister towards the drivers side as you pull it up:



ANOTHER TIP: There will be fuel inside the canister that will be dripping out. Make sure you have a glass dish or metal canister to catch the canister as you pull it up so that you don't drip fuel on your carpet or on the chassis. I used the metal water canister of my dog (Yes i made sure to clean it well prior to using and after):

NASIOC pic:


Now for the pump disassembly. Most of the pics here I borrowed from the NASIOC post since I didn't have someone to take pictures for me because my hands were in work gloves which was contaminated with gas.

This is how the entire assembly looks like:
NASIOC image:




There are 4 large tabs that hold the assembly together. This need to be pried open before the assembly can be separated into half. A second pair of hands would be useful here:
NASIOC pic:


I was able to manage removing it myself by using my pointed metal pics to hold on to the tabs while I worked on the others. Once released, the upper assembly is pulled up and separated from the lower canister:


The fuel pump and filter is now exposed. This was how mine looked after 7,000 kms:



The two plastic plugs at the bottom of the assembly are then removed (1 black and 1 white). Make sure you do not loose the 2 O-rings. This will be reused.
NASIOC pic:


The spring-loaded top section is then released. Squeeze the two parts together until the spring portion reveals the c-clip on the steel rod that holds the assembly together:
NASIOC pic:


Remove the plugs of the harnesses. Separate the 2 sections together. It should now look like this:
NASIOC pics:




The next step is to remove the fuel pump from the housing, which is secured tightly by 2 tabs. Please be careful not to break it. This may be the hardest step for many. You will need 2 thin small flat screwdrivers to help pry the tabs. I used my 2 metal pics and got away with it:
NASIOC pic:




Once removed, set aside the OEM pump. Bring out the new DW65c pump to prepare for assembly into the housing:


Remove the blue caps. Attach the new filter supplied to the new pump. Moderate force may be necessary to push it into place. Make sure the nipple lines up to the corresponding hole. Attach the metal fastener to lock it into place:


Flip the new pump over. Remove the spacer from the old pump and attach to the new pump. Use a new O-ring supplied with the kit. Be sure to lubricate the O-ring prior to installing it using the supplied grease:


Slide the new pump into the housing just like before. Make sure it firmly clicks into place and secured properly. The housing is then reassembled into the spring top. Be sure to attach it just like how it was disassembled previously. Refer to your pictures taken. Press the 2 sections together to reveal the steel rod with the notch for the C-clip. Reattach C-clip:
NASIOC pic:




Reattach the black and white plugs. Reuse the O-rings if feasible. Be sure to lubricate properly prior to installing:
NASIOC pics:



Reattach connections on the top for the sensors as well as for the new fuel pump. Once done, assembly is ready to be reinserted to the canister. Be sure to clean canister first:


Grease the bottom connector of the assembly that mates with the corresponding hole on the bottom of the canister. Use the 2nd of the supplied O-rings:
NASIOC pic:




Line up the assembly with the connector and push down till the 4 tabs click into place. Check all connectors and make sure everything is reattached.

The rest will simply be a reverse of the removal process. Take care in lowering the assembly into the tank. Tilt the assembly towards the drivers side as you lower it in order to clear the floater. Refer to your pictures on the rubber gasket and metal ring position since it only assembles back in one way. Reattach nuts in cris-cross pattern. Reattach fuel hoses. Do not reinstall yet the access cover since the system has to be checked first for leaks. Reattach wiring harness.

Sequence for pump priming:
1. Reattach negative cable to battery
2. Turn on ignition but do not start. You should hear fuel pump cycle on for about 3 seconds then off. Turn off ignition and then repeat process. Check for leaks. There will be some gurgling sounds due to air being pumped out. Repeat until you are confident that there are no more leaks. I did mine for 10 cycles.
3. Start engine and let idle. Check for leaks again.

Once you are sure everything is dry with no apparent leaks, reinstall access cover with proper orientation.

Prior to reinstalling the rear seat, I found it a good opportunity to ziptie some of the loose cables as well as apply Aerofoam/foam tape over suspected rattles:


Thanks for looking!
 

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great write up very helpfull
 

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Big thank you for this write up. Installed my buddies fuel pump today, and I don't have much experience with the newer cars. I flipped his rear seats down and was like "Hey your fuel pump isn't where mine is". So I searched, found this and about an hour later I was finished.

Again thanks!
 

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Thanks for the write up. Looking forward to reading about your GTX3076 install as well since that is my turbo of choice also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the write up. Looking forward to reading about your GTX3076 install as well since that is my turbo of choice also.
Hi. Ive installed it already a few months back. Very impressed with the power and delivery. Butt dyno for now since we do not have a dyno service here in our province


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This is an absolutely great instruction for installing the fuel pump....great job, and thx.

I found one hint for the removal of the old pump from the plastic housing. The photo in the instruction appears to show two screw drivers going down from the top of the plastic housing to gently pry the mounting clips off of the pump. There are two holes on either side of the plastic barrel housing that are in-line with the bottom of the tabs on the pump. If you use one screw driver from the side and one from the top it is much easier to get the first clip over the retention tab. If you leave one screw driver holding the clip off of the tab and do the same approach on the other side, I found it easier than doing it tops down.

I must say that this is a project that I hope I never need to do again...just don't like working with open gasoline containers!
 

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So i was doing this to my brothers sti and even though you say carefully remove that c-clip, i popped it off with a flat head and it flew away. Will look for it again in the morning but can i get one from a parts store if beed be?
 

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Thanks for the write up!
 

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Just got my fuel pump. Is it supposed to smell like fuel?? Do they test before shipping?


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We test every pump before shipping for flow and current at 40psi and 80psi. We do our best to dry the pumps before shipping but sometimes there is some fluid left over. Not to worry though, we test with n-heptane per SAE standard, not gasoline. Also, the pumps are heat sealed into a poly bag so no fluid should escape.
 

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Awesome....yeah I just wanted to make sure. Unit came sealed with your sticker and I bought from a reputable dealer....but just wanted to make sure since first product I buy from you guys.


We test every pump before shipping for flow and current at 40psi and 80psi. We do our best to dry the pumps before shipping but sometimes there is some fluid left over. Not to worry though, we test with n-heptane per SAE standard, not gasoline. Also, the pumps are heat sealed into a poly bag so no fluid should escape.
 

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We test every pump before shipping for flow and current at 40psi and 80psi. We do our best to dry the pumps before shipping but sometimes there is some fluid left over. Not to worry though, we test with n-heptane per SAE standard, not gasoline. Also, the pumps are heat sealed into a poly bag so no fluid should escape.
:tup: Love the fitment and quality
 

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hi guys,

does any body have the size/type of o-ring used ? the manual states 3-116, but no o-ring supplier I have locally (melbourne, australia) knows what that means...

any help appreciated, car not really driveable at the moment...
 

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I did this today. The removal/install is pretty straight forward, but even with 2 sets of hands and several different screwdrivers, I had a nightmare of a time with removal of the old pump. I ended up having to use a drill to drill holes in the black tabs of the pump and then cracked them off using a flat head screwdriver in order to get the old pump to come out. Since the old pump was going in the trash anyway, it wasn't a big deal, but I held my breath for a second when I waited to see if the pump worked appropriately....which it did :tup:
 
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