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Discussion Starter #1
Well I figured I should start logging my build since I am kind of going balls to the wall now. And who knows maybe other would like to see what I am doing.


So info on the car

Engine:
- Catless FMS Downpipe (don't buy it, I got it for 100 dollars and it fit like fat man in an airplane seat) Grimmspeed Downpipe now
- CNT Catback (fitment was great actually, I was quite surprised)
- AEM Cold Air Intake
- FMS Top Mount Intercooler
- DW65c fuel pump
- ID 1000cc Injectors
- Grimmspeed 3 Port EBCS
- Custom AOS Grimmspeed Style IAG AOS
- Custom Lightweight Crank Pulley
- Cobb Double Adjustable Short Shifter Stock STI Shifter
- Cobb shifter bushings front and rear
- Cobb Accessport V3, Torqued Performance Custom Tune
- Steamspeed STX67


Interior:
- SMY Cluster
- AEM UEGO Wideband
- AEM Boost Gauge

Suspension:
- Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar

And this is what I hope to have planed.

Engine (built by me not a shop):

Reusing my current block
Reusing my current Crank
Manley 99.75mm Pistons
Manley H "Tuff" rods
King Bearings
ARP Head Studs
GSC Intake and exhaust valves
Felpro MLS
KillerB Oil Pickup
Some sort of Equal Length Header
Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors
TGV deletes


Driveline:

STI 6 speed transmission swap
Some flavour of Clutch
Stock STI Flywheel


So this is what the car looked like when I parked it in the garage last month. Was burning oil, compression was surprisingly even at 125 psi on all 4 cylinders but I knew something was wrong as the amount of oil I was burning was getting quite bad. I figured I had just worn the engine out and It has 107k km on it and had a downpipe on it since 10k km. I did it in really good when I pulled it apart.



I quickly dove into it, these cars are pretty quick work for me as I have pulled these motors over a dozen times on various subarus and all the engine bays with the EJ platform are basically the same with locations for mounts and what not. Only took me 2 hrs just putsing along listening to music and texting.



Oh and I really needed a new clutch seeing as this was stock and I had an upgraded turbo...

Also damn... Never had that happen and this is the newest Subaru I have worked on...


So I kind of got to into it and forgot to take a bunch of pictures but I found my problem. One thing this is with almost zero cleaning of the piston. I literally washed the oil off with some dawn dish soap. This is what good maintenance looks like!


So I was going to build the engine anyways but still sucked. There was no detonation marks on the piston tops, spark plugs, valves on head quench area. I am going to chalk this failure up unlucky or tight ring gap, drove it too hard or something along those lines. Rarely saw knock and I monitored it all the time. Most would be -1.4°
 

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Discussion Starter #2
But moving on from that I did a big thing... Also I don't own a truck but it fit in my trunk of my Impreza! It is an STI 6 speed with 10k kms on it from a 2013 STI. It is a direct swap for my car and will go in with no issue. I just need the clutch, flywheel, and a DCCD Controller for the center differential.





So I got the rest of the motor cracked apart. Crank was mint, the main bearings actually look brand new. The rod bearings wear is meh. I would guess that the bearing clearance was just too tight for the power I was running. The compression side of the bearing is just wearing through the protective coating while the other side looks brand new as well. This right here shows that putting a good oil that fits to how you drive (oil weight wise) will go a long way. I beat the **** out of this car the day I took it off the lot with 7km on it. I did a hard break in and it treated me very well with cross country treks all the way through the desert of Arizona, Nevada, and Central Valley California.

Main Bearing


Rod Bearing

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Got the drive train swap complete. Literally just need my custom ordered shift knob and shift boot. I also got a sub panel put in my garage as well! So starting with that.




After that was done I could use my new air compressor I got for Christmas. Having an air impact really made short work of stuff. I pulled the exhaust out in no time and then was able to get at the drive shaft. After that it was tackling the transmission.








 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like its ready to go in. Had my friend help me put in the trans because it would have been a nightmare by myself. Look at that size difference!




http://i.imgur.com/bjCejcol.jpg[img]

The next day I got the old R160 diff out and the bigger R180 diff in. By myself. It was brutal.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/AUVb4BLl.jpg

Worst part... And bad pictures.


Finishing touches, clutch cylinder, oil and the rest of the shifter stuff inside.


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Manley Pistons


ARP Headstuds

A Pitch Stop Mount made in Canada. Supporting local business where I can.



As for the Clutch has anyone here used Bully Clutches? They're made in Ontario so I wouldn't mind going with them.

I got my shift boot from JPM Coachworks. This stuff is extremely high quality, I can see why people love Alcantara and their products. The wife loves when I do car stuff on the counter tops... I actually had her help me put it on though because the fabric was so tight to get on.



I have been slowly plugging away on this. Made pretty good progress though. Still have to refresh the heads with some GSC valves I have.

I got the short block assembled though.

I got the Block bored at The Block Shop here in Edmonton. They have torque plates which is awesome. Piston to wall clearance specified by me was 2.7 thou to 3.0 thou.

So being that it is a used block STD bearing can sometimes not be enough. My engine had 100k km (60k miles) so I had to so a lot of mix and matching. My crank was used but all the mains were literally bang on 60mm (2.3625" -2.3624) and same goes for the rods being bang on 52mm (2.0472-2.0471)


Main 1 used 2 std bearings - 0.0010"

Main 2 used 1 std & 1 0.026 bearing - 0.0014

Main 3 used 2 0.026 bearings - 0.0014

Main 4 used 2 0.026 bearings - 0.0014

Main 5 (thrust) 2 std bearings - 0.0009

I set my ring end gaps to 0.020 for the top ring and 0.023 for the 2nd ring.






Had to set it aside while I waited to borrow my dads small vice that I like using to hold files while I set ring gaps.






So a couple things. Firstly I finally got my custom ordered Anarchy Motive shift knob. This is well worth the wait as it is literally perfect. It is probably one of my favorite things about the build as odd as it seems. I got the H pattern etched in so it wont wear off from use. Also you can kind of see the JPM Coachworks shift boot in there as well.


For the next bit I am curious if any of you have ran into this problem. When i was installing my Killer B Oil Pickup the one side didn't feel like it was getting snug. I thought I was stretching the bolt actually so I took it out to see the threads condition. They were fine so I inspected the oil pickup to see this. The head of the hex bolt was interfering with the weld and crushing it. I took a small diamond file to clean it up. I know it is minor but I feel like the Hardware should be changed to some Socket Head Cap screws for the smaller head size. The Tigwerks pick up uses them and I can see why. I know it is minor but I would like to bring it to attention so other people can see it if they run into issues.




So all I need now is Clutch, Flywheel, Turbo Inlet, and fluids along with the odds and ends.

Then it is ready to be back in the car. Have to do the heads yet but that's a weekend. job.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys!

I hope to get the heads possibly done this weekend so i can have the long block all done for next week. Still saving for a clutch and flywheel though but it is getting really close now!
 

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how much oil were you burning? im kinda in the same boat, my car loves oil, compression is 155 on all cylinders zero knock, no burning smell or any smoke...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
how much oil were you burning? im kinda in the same boat, my car loves oil, compression is 155 on all cylinders zero knock, no burning smell or any smoke...
Stupid amounts.

Part throttle I could see a haze behind me.

Probably 1L every 300km of hard hard driving. I knew it was screwed so I wanted to burn off the last of the gas in the tank. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I hit a snag because I am a bone head. I noticed last night the bore had a nice vertical scratch in it. Nothing serious but it sill bothered me a lot. It was from the ring ends or anything like that but rather the rod pin ends clanking against the bore. I could just barely catch it on a dental pick. I tore down the entire block down the the halves put my torque plate on a used my stone hone until they were gone. Didn't take too long but still a kick in the pants to have to take it all apart and re clean everything. Cleaning fresh RTV that hasn't been heat cycled sucks a lot.

Learn from my mistakes and take extra car in wrapping the rod ends up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can use a microfibre and a rubber band to hold it around the rod :)
That is a good tip! Never thought of that. I usually wrap duct tape around the end but being that the rod is always so oily from Manley it must have slipped off. :p

Oh well. Just have to put it all back together now but hey everything is blueprinted and laid out in order. Should go quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Another snag. Dohhh!

So I go to put the shortblock back together. I was inspecting each piston before I put them back in, making sure the ring gaps are where they should be. All of them looked great... Except for number 2.

The Napier Cut on the Iron second ring broke off on a small portion! I don't know how it happened but now I had to order a set of new rings for one piston. The piece was stuck to the ringland between the 1st and 2nd so I am glad I found the chunk. :( Not to happy about it but the flip side would have been worse. I am going to guess it happened when I originally put it in! So if I didn't take it all apart it would have been an oil burner for sure.

I still have lots to do at least.

Have to do the heads still but I did get my interior back together with my oil pressure gauge in my SMY Cluster. I pulled the boost gauge out because of my Accessport V3.

Hopefully have a meaningful update soon. Like the heads getting setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally!

Got my rings last night and made a hell of a lot of Progress! Found out good news too. Spark Plugs and turbo inlet will be in next week before Easter long weekend! Car will be running next weekend fingers crossed!







 
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