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I'm hoping to run one mono amp to a sub in my car and use the deck power to run interior speakers (components up front and coax's in back).

But then I was thinking that b/c the car is a loud ride that either it might overpower the mids or the sub will, making it not the best setup.

Alternatively I could buy a five channel amp to run it all, but I sacrifice in power to the sub in this scenario, plus will likely draw more power and add more weight, plus most 5 channel amps don't have the right amt of power for the sub I like.

If you've installed a stereo, did you amp your interior speakers or run them from the deck power.... and how is it working?
 

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For component speakers, I've been told to run an amp. I ended up going with the JL 500/5, which delivers 100W to each front speaker, 25W to each rear, and 250 W to the sub. The sub amp is class D, and the F/R power is class A/B. Don't know exactly what all that means, but the amp was a perfect choice for my application. I got mine for $600.

Not installed yet, so I can't comment on sound yet, but should be nice.

Just in case you needed for comparison, I'm running:

Alpine 7897 HU
Alpine XM receiver
Boston Z6 fronts
Boston RX47 4" rears
JL 10W6 10" sub
JL 500/5 amp
 

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The class of an amp (A/B, D) refers to the amount of 'on' time during one cycle that the transistors are conducting. Class A is audiofile stuff and very expensive....on almost all the time and very hot..typically tube amps. Advantages to class A amps is that there is less switching (pn junction level) so there is less noise propagated through the system, and also that they can provide power on demand. A/B amps don't have as much 'on time' but have a little more switching noise due to the transistors turning on and off. But, they don't get as hot as Class A and are suitable for cars or other environments where you don't have access to moving air that reduces thermals. Class D amps are the least expensive (typically) and May be suited for bass drivers since the noise introduced is probably way down in the signal to noise ratio?? Not sure on this....just guessing.

There are other things too, like efficiencies of each class that relate directly to heatsink requirements but hey, my beer is empty and I need another.

Enjoy your music.
 

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Hey, when you get your stuff installed tell me what you think of the 10W6, I'm interested in that line, (the W7's are way overboard for me,) but haven't gotten a chance to hear them yet.
 

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Stereo Install

Will do. Probably be late september though. My Sti should come in the sept allocation from Van Bortel. Very disappointed I missed the august allocation. I was going to get a 10W3, but then I found a 10W6 on sale for $99, so it was a no-brainer. They had one left, unboxed, last week. Hifi buys in nashville, 615-833-5000, ask for TJ.
 
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