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Hi my STi buddies....
I live in Florida and it gets really hot here as you all know. My goal with my STi is to get her running as best as possible and to keep the power constant and reliable. Reliability is my main concern because she is my daily driver and I plan on keeping her for a long time.
Anyways....
I noticed when sitting at a light, that the Subie looses a little power and it tends to make the car feel sluggish compared to those nice cooler mornings where it feels sensitive to the throttle and the car sprints in a heartbeat.

I would really like to do little things to help bring down this heat soaking power robbing problem to a minimum bringing heat temps down and keep reliability.
So what are things that can help stop robbing the power and keep the stock power constant?

My thoughts were as follows but recommendations and suggestion would be great help.

I'm considering:

- THERMAL WRAP: I'm not sure if there are any benefits to this. If there is then would there be any part I should do or not do on the exhaust system or turbo without causing stress on the parts? What parts should be done?
Can this mod hurt any parts or cause future problems (ex: the cats)?

- WATER WETTER or Different Radiator Fluid: I was thinking of draining the radiator fluid and using Redline Water Wetter with water.
Any comments or suggestions? Even a bigger radiator?

- TURBO HEAT SHIELD: All I know of is the Cusco and Cobb heat shield but was hoping there was something better out there. I think I seen a Turbo chimney but I think it's for the WRX only? Any comments?

- SCOOP AIR SPLITTER: There are a few manufactures for scoop splitters but I'm 100% sure if it fits the STi scoop and if it beneficial? Any suggestions?

- RADIATOR SHROUD? Does this even work?

- FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER: This is very expensive and you even need to get an Engine Management system for those who don't have one and you have to get the car tuned after this is installed.
I have the AP stage 1 does anyone know of a GOOD AP tuner in Florida? :p

- AMSOIL: I've been doing a lot of reviews and this oil seems to out perform many other and keep engine temps down.
Any comments?

- METH INJECTION: I don't even know how this works (need to do more research). Can you use this on a daily driver everyday? Will it become expensive to use and how does it work and what do you need to buy? Who's the best manufacture to go with?

- RALLY HOOD W/ RALLY VENT: Seems cool and different. Any comments?

- BETTER RADIATOR CAP or RADIATOR HOSES: Does this work?

Any other suggestions would be great. Will any of these products need the Subies ECU to be re-tuned/ re-flashed?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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0bluesti4 said:
I wonder how it is triggered? Does it trigger from temperature or RPM or what? Also, is that button plug and play or is additional wiring is needed?
It's triggered by pressing the button. The difference between that button and the one that's in your car is that when you press that button, the spray doesn't stop until you press it again.

Search around a bit for "boost activated intercooler spray." Somebody has wired that button up to a boost switch so that it sprays at a certain level of boost. But it doesn't do that normally.
 

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Changing your coolant wont help with intercooler heat soak. But if your interested in a cool product check out Evans NPG. Its a lifetime coolant with no water in it. It has a boiling point of around 350 degrees at 0psi, and has better heat transfer properties than water/glycol. You need to completely drain all water out of your car before you put this stuff in. The company recomends running a 1-2 psi cap. Your hoses will all last longer cause there is very little pressure on them.

Back to heat soak. The best way to combat it is to run a front mount. Other than that you can wrap your turbo and downpipe.
 

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^Thats funny, cause the 'Coolant' chapter in the manual gives a chart with different ratios of water to the coolant you describing.
 

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My Heatsoak Formula

This is what I have done to combat heatsoak:
  • Stock turbo heatshield
  • APS bellmouth heatshield
  • Wrapped downpipe
  • APS 65mm CAI
  • eBay TMIC
  • Meth Injection
  • 1 step colder plugs
  • STi reservoir cap (?)
  • 160 degree thermostat
I use the crap out of my IC spray in the summer and have been meaning to install the autospray mod, just haven't got to it yet.

CB
 

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flatthump said:
^But when will you be running 8psi at a red light?
Yeah, that's why I'm not terribly interested in making mine boost activated... mine mostly gets used when sitting and waiting for my autocross run.

I really wish the button was on the steering wheel.
 

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I did the throttle bypass mod. According to my realtime data it *maybe* brought down IAT by one half of a degree.
 

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Here is a couple suggestions to optimize a stock setup with heatsoak.

Stock turbo heatshield trimmed to fit, and ceramic coated
Aftermarket turbo heatshield - Cusco will fit
Downpipe ceramic coated/wrapped
Turbo Wrap - Recommend StaticX's
Useage of the stock intercooler sprayer
160 degree thermostat

Meth is also another option you may use.
 

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Spraying the intercooler is probably the most effective way to combat heat soak at stop lights. A lot of tuners will use the intercooler sprayer pretty much the whole time they are tuning.
 

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fastcb said:
This is what I have done to combat heatsoak:
  • Stock turbo heatshield
  • APS bellmouth heatshield
  • Wrapped downpipe
  • eBay TMIC
  • Meth Injection
  • 1 step colder plugs
  • STi reservoir cap (?)
  • 160 degree thermostat
I use the crap out of my IC spray in the summer and have been meaning to install the autospray mod, just haven't got to it yet.

CB
i live in southern california, and this is exactly my setup (without the meth, and without the ebay TMIC). Just add the throttle body bypass, and APS CAI. other than a FMIC, there is really not much you can do other than the above mentioned to get rid of a TMIC car's heat soak. good luck.
 

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Gami004pilot said:
- FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER: This is very expensive and you even need to get an Engine Management system for those who don't have one and you have to get the car tuned after this is installed.
I have the AP stage 1 does anyone know of a GOOD AP tuner in Florida? :p
Not really. I got my FMIC for $379 shipped and it came with everything. Tuning can wait IMO. You should feel how cold the charge pipe coming out of my FMIC is! I'm so glad I got rid of the TMIC.
 

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flatthump said:
^But when will you be running 8psi at a red light?
I still have the manual button too.
 

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flatthump said:
^Thats funny, cause the 'Coolant' chapter in the manual gives a chart with different ratios of water to the coolant you describing.
evans NPG= non polyglycol, waterless coolant. If you mix the stuff with water it lowers the boiling point from 350 degrees and it can cavitate.
 
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