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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
i think it was one miata, one 240sx (ls3 in that iirc), and 1990 audi something or another, a mini cooper s and something else. basically everything was either making around 500whp or they were 1k+lbs lighter making the same ish whp. haha. i was severely outclassed. but oh well. it's fun
Ah...i forgot about the 240s... those things are fun to play with. Sounds like a lot of fun. I was hoping to go to willow springs for a few lessons to get my feet wet but this summer is ruled out now =/
 

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So update,

Just went to the dealer and they offered to take my car in for 14k and take a 2021 out the door 42k not including the down

I was thinking that too. Since i got the car I've been going down the rabbit hole in what to do next and i have a feeling ill do the same thing once it's up and running again.

In the future, planning for kids eventually, would the car sell for a decent price if that was ever the case? Its still new and i have not seen much of built engine cars being sold for the VA yet.
14k dealer offer isnt bad.

and just because you have kids doesnt mean you have to get rid of the car. especially the new VA chassis, there's a good bit of room. if your commute to work isnt super far just stay with stock turbo/flex fuel and you'll have something that is fun and reliable and not too expensive.
 

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Ah...i forgot about the 240s... those things are fun to play with. Sounds like a lot of fun. I was hoping to go to willow springs for a few lessons to get my feet wet but this summer is ruled out now =/
yeah the 240s arent super common in road racing, but they handle really well, this guy had a v8 in his. i cant remember which but the car was badass.

and do it man. save up and do an HPDE day. i am hoping i can this year but i think i'll have to wait until next year to do it sadly. I just got a house so i have to save for another track day haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
14k dealer offer isnt bad.

and just because you have kids doesnt mean you have to get rid of the car. especially the new VA chassis, there's a good bit of room. if your commute to work isnt super far just stay with stock turbo/flex fuel and you'll have something that is fun and reliable and not too expensive.
By any chance with a built motor can it be state registered and legal? Would i have to talk to my shop about it if it is even a possibility? Don't know where to get it "smogged" in the future.
 

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As Karlot said, definitely don’t ditch the car if you have kids later, mine has a booster seat and bucket seat in the back, still totally works. Hell, kids are why I got this anyways instead of something with half the doors…

Also, this hasn’t been brought up, and I’m typing this from forum regurgitation rather than experience so hopefully someone else will chime in, if you’re looking at built, there is a limited longevity to them before piston clearances open up too much. So there’s a power level X where under that an oem block will be fine and outlast a built one, and over that level a built one will likely outlast the oem one, as the oem one is a liability. From your earlier comments it sounds like you may want to consider that RA block. There’s a guy on here, User###something or other with a batshit crazy sti, read the thread in his signature.
 

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By any chance with a built motor can it be state registered and legal? Would i have to talk to my shop about it if it is even a possibility? Don't know where to get it "smogged" in the future.
Built motor and stock tune are fine. ive been through the state ref setup like that and passed no issues.
 

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By any chance with a built motor can it be state registered and legal? Would i have to talk to my shop about it if it is even a possibility? Don't know where to get it "smogged" in the future.
You in california? Lol smog sucks. Thank goodness va doesn’t have that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
As Karlot said, definitely don’t ditch the car if you have kids later, mine has a booster seat and bucket seat in the back, still totally works. Hell, kids are why I got this anyways instead of something with half the doors…

Also, this hasn’t been brought up, and I’m typing this from forum regurgitation rather than experience so hopefully someone else will chime in, if you’re looking at built, there is a limited longevity to them before piston clearances open up too much. So there’s a power level X where under that an oem block will be fine and outlast a built one, and over that level a built one will likely outlast the oem one, as the oem one is a liability. From your earlier comments it sounds like you may want to consider that RA block. There’s a guy on here, User###something or other with a batshit crazy sti, read the thread in his signature.
Does that longevity of a built motor get affected if it's daily driven with spirited canyon runs? I've never been to the track and i predict i would only go once a year (if that) and since this is my daily i would stay out of boost majority of the time. Im only curious since the way you drive should play a factor too no?

I've heard that the built motors are improving as they're being produced and handling better overall. Just open for discussion to better understand. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Built motor and stock tune are fine. ive been through the state ref setup like that and passed no issues.
Did you have to keep the stock DP on it? I would be very interested in getting it state ref but don't want to show up and end up shooting myself in the foot to fix it to their liking.
 

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Yeah love the weather but the smog restrictions is kind of a downer.
lol yeah, there's alot of reasons i wouldnt want to be in cali. which is a shame because it's such a beautiful place.

Does that longevity of a built motor get affected if it's daily driven with spirited canyon runs? I've never been to the track and i predict i would only go once a year (if that) and since this is my daily i would stay out of boost majority of the time. Im only curious since the way you drive should play a factor too no?

I've heard that the built motors are improving as they're being produced and handling better overall. Just open for discussion to better understand. Thanks!
yes and no. a built motor itself may not last as long as an oem without being refreshed from time to time, this will depend on the type of pistons used, really the materials. typically they work great and assuming not being beat on all the time will last 100k+. that being said, it wont get effected if it's daily driven with canyon runs. it'll hold up just fine. i think i have 40k ish on my built block. never had an issue, making 370 ish whp and it's still going strong (and i do track it as well as drive it on the street. was a daily for about 30k of those miles, now it's a garage queen lol). but you wont have to worry about it. worst case a tad over 100k you'd need a tear down, check everything and maybe replace a few small parts. overall they last quite a long time if they are built right.
 

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Did you have to keep the stock DP on it? I would be very interested in getting it state ref but don't want to show up and end up shooting myself in the foot to fix it to their liking.
I did have the car 100% stock besides the built motor. I keep all the stock parts for my car even the radio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
I did have the car 100% stock besides the built motor. I keep all the stock parts for my car even the radio.
Guess that options out the window. Planning to go elh so i can see that being a pita to swap out along with the dp once the shop gives it back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
lol yeah, there's alot of reasons i wouldnt want to be in cali. which is a shame because it's such a beautiful place.



yes and no. a built motor itself may not last as long as an oem without being refreshed from time to time, this will depend on the type of pistons used, really the materials. typically they work great and assuming not being beat on all the time will last 100k+. that being said, it wont get effected if it's daily driven with canyon runs. it'll hold up just fine. i think i have 40k ish on my built block. never had an issue, making 370 ish whp and it's still going strong (and i do track it as well as drive it on the street. was a daily for about 30k of those miles, now it's a garage queen lol). but you wont have to worry about it. worst case a tad over 100k you'd need a tear down, check everything and maybe replace a few small parts. overall they last quite a long time if they are built right.
Awesome! That's a relief to know yours going that long with track days on it. Have you had to change your rotors yet?

Now the tear down is what you meant about getting the block refreshed right? Is that normal maintenance or what's expected for built motors? I have yet heard or seen anyone mention a teardown but only the typical 100k timing service.
 

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Awesome! That's a relief to know yours going that long with track days on it. Have you had to change your rotors yet?

Now the tear down is what you meant about getting the block refreshed right? Is that normal maintenance or what's expected for built motors? I have yet heard or seen anyone mention a teardown but only the typical 100k timing service.
it's a normal thing for built motors. honestly ive seen some go 120k before a teardown or replacement (often not necessary, many just go with a stronger built motor to hold even more power). and typically from what i understand it's tolerances, checking the piston rings/seals/bearings etc. but yes, getting the block refreshed. i have had my built block for like 4 years now. with roughly 40k miles, and i havent had to do this yet. i was told to expect to need to at some point, but how soon or far depended on how hard i drove. the maintenance i performed (oil gets changed every 2-2500 miles OR every track day since the built motor, whichever comes first). and things along that nature. i'd contact whoever builds your motor to get more info on that. (mine is an IAG shortblock, specifically the stage 2 "tuff" shortblock)

and yeah, ive changed rotors. haha. i actually need to do that now before i do another track day. i think i'm on my 4th set of rotors since i owned the car. 2nd since i started racing it. i honestly cant remember. ive had it for approximately 8.5 years at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
it's a normal thing for built motors. honestly ive seen some go 120k before a teardown or replacement (often not necessary, many just go with a stronger built motor to hold even more power). and typically from what i understand it's tolerances, checking the piston rings/seals/bearings etc. but yes, getting the block refreshed. i have had my built block for like 4 years now. with roughly 40k miles, and i havent had to do this yet. i was told to expect to need to at some point, but how soon or far depended on how hard i drove. the maintenance i performed (oil gets changed every 2-2500 miles OR every track day since the built motor, whichever comes first). and things along that nature. i'd contact whoever builds your motor to get more info on that. (mine is an IAG shortblock, specifically the stage 2 "tuff" shortblock)

and yeah, ive changed rotors. haha. i actually need to do that now before i do another track day. i think i'm on my 4th set of rotors since i owned the car. 2nd since i started racing it. i honestly cant remember. ive had it for approximately 8.5 years at this point.
This just dawned on me but with the shortblock having everything new and serviced... would i have to start worrying about the internals on the head? What's the likelihood of the valve, springs, cams, etc faulting?

I think i need to go about changing my rotors soon...i still don't know what the previous owners done to this car. I've managed to change everything else just to be up to date except brakes and rotors.
 

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This just dawned on me but with the shortblock having everything new and serviced... would i have to start worrying about the internals on the head? What's the likelihood of the valve, springs, cams, etc faulting?

I think i need to go about changing my rotors soon...i still don't know what the previous owners done to this car. I've managed to change everything else just to be up to date except brakes and rotors.
brakes and rotors are easy. pending the goals you ahve for the car they can get expensive. but they arent super hard to change out.

and the heads on these cars are actually pretty solid. the weak point in them would be the valves/springs/retainers. so long as youre pushing under 24psi, you wont have anything to worry about. when you start running more than 24psi you will have to worry about the valves/springs/retainers being upgraded. if they are off the car i'd go ahead and do that now, especially since it's not all that much money to do so. but aside from that just have them gone through cleaned/decked and get a valve job done and you'll be good. I think IAG charged 750 for that (i'd have to go find my receipt, that number may be wrong)
 
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