Okay. So there has been some trouble installing these units in the 2017 STI's and up. Crawford will not make an official statement of it, but they will be more than willing to help you out with sending more additional hose at request.
This was my first purchase from Crawford, and although I did run into this snag, they really came through in customer service and got the materials I needed shipped to my door FAST! It was very nice to see that quality of service
**IF ANYONE NEEDS BETTER PICTURES OF ANYTHING ELSE PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE 10/20/2017 AS I AM HELPING MY BUDDY WHO ALSO HAS A 2017 STI TO PUT HIS ON.
This was the end result of my install, on my 2017 STI.
IMG_0503 by Brod C, on Flickr
The additional hose lengths you will need, 1x 55" 1/2" ventilation hose, 1x 50" 3/8" PCV hose.
**You will need to use the supplied 43" 1/2" ventilation hose to relocate the breather line that runs off the passenger head.
All the tools I suggest buying are recommended, if you want to struggle with installing it and make yourself work harder, than by all means don't get anything at all.
TOOLS:
1. 12mm ratcheting wrench. It needs to be about 8-10" inches in length, the longer the better. and a 12 point head would be better so you dont have to keep turning the wrench to get the teeth to bite.
2. Telescoping magnetic tool
3. Telescoping mirror (will explain this later)
4. Hose Remover Pliers- This is the recommended style of tool to remove those pesky band clamps on the 2017 and up STI's. Get these. Its alot better than taking a dremel to the hose, or yanking on the hose itself to remove the clamp.
4.1 hose cutters.
5. Sleeving to prevent friction on the bends. (I used more than you really needed to) Amazon.com: 25ft-3/4" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving ?Blackred ?Alex Tech cable management sleeve cord organizer for wrap & protect cables: Home Audio & Theater
6. Extra hose clamps, just buy an assortment of smaller ones for the appropriate sized hoses.
7. Of course zip ties.
8. a torque wrench, with a 1/4 inch drive because its the only torque wrench that can go as low as 3 Nm.
Torque Specs: I am going to arrange the parts based on amount of torque.
3 Nm - Throttle body hose clamps, and turbocharger clamp
8 Nm - Throttle body bolts connecting to the intake manifold. (Need to check this one)
16 Nm - Intercooler stays, these are brackets where one is is bolted to the intake manifold, and the other end is connected via the singular bolts on each end of the intercooler on the left and right side. The air bypass valve.
***PLEASE TRY AND KEEP THE BOLTS ORGANIZED AND MAKE SURE THE BOLT THAT YOU PULL OUT GETS THREADED BACK INTO THAT SAME ONE.
I had an issue with this mounting the AOS. Turns out one of the bolts i had, which followed the exact same thread pattern and bolt size but for some reason half of the first thread was gone and I could not thread the bolt in. So i switched with a similar bolt which had threads all the way around, and boom. Went in, no problem.
INSTALL:
1. DO NOT PULL ANY HOSES OFF WHEN TAKING THE INTERCOOLER OFF.
1.1 - Disconnect the leak diagnosis connections on the intercooler. There are three. 1 runs to the bottom left of the intercooler. The second hose disconnects to the left of the alternator. the third hose is to the right on the intercooler. There is an additional sensor on this plus that will need to be unplugged. (**PRO TIP - don't try and disconnect the third connection yet)
1.2 Remove the bolts from the air bypass valve, with 12 mm socket.
1.3 Remove the intercooler stay on the right hand side of the intercooler with a 12 mm socket. 1 bolt is connecting the intercooler, and the other 2 bolts are connecting the bracket to the manifold. pull the bracket out completely. Then loosen the remove the bolt on the left.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the throttle body with a 8mm socket or screwdriver or flathead. then loosen the clamp on the turbocharger.
2.1 Push the intercooler up and back to the backside of the car. You will need to jiggle it with some force. After it has freed itself from the throttle body, you should have more room on the right hand side to disconnect the "third" sensor i talked about in step 1.
2.2 After disconnecting the sensor, jiggle the intercooler to the right and it should free itself from the turbocharger, and then boom the intercooler is out.
3. Mounting the AOS- The tips i am going to give you will be the difference between a 3 day install and a few hours install.
3. Run your hand underneath the power steering line which is marked AA. You want to grab the hose that's in the picture below and position it the same way I have done below in the picture this connects to the leak diagnosis connector that you disconnected when removing the intercooler.Disconnect the actual sensor with wires coming out the back by sticking a small flat head at the bottom and pressing down on the clip to seperate the sensor from the connection.
***the goal for relocating this hose is to ALWAYS make sure it's MAINTAINING A DOWNWARD SLOPE and NO SHARP BENDS IN HOSE.
After the hose has been re-located. Leave it there. It will be the very last thing we connect after everything is put back.
4. Remove the bolts that Crawford says to remove on the injector cover. its 2 12 mm bolts. This is where the ratcheting wrench comes in handy.
4.1 Take the telescoping mirror and try and get a view on the bracket that is over the injector cover. You will most likely notice that the bracket is out of alignment. What you would have done without that mirror is spent hours trying to jam the bolts in with force when you did not actually know there was a reason they weren't going in....
4.2 To manipulate that bracket into place, look on top of the turbocharger housing, and you will see the intercooler stay that holds the left side of the intercooler up. There is a bolt to the right of that hole that you need to remove with a 12mm socket. The bolt with the purple dot on it, is the bolt you want to remove.
IMG_0499 by Brod C, on Flickr
4.3 After taking that bolt out, you can now manipulate the bracket to align itself with the intake manifold bolt holes. This bracket gives you leverage which you can then use to align it back up.
*** you can zip ties to keep the hoses out of the way.
4.4 mount that B**** on screw the bolts on. Start with only the bottom bolt first and get a few threads in.
After it's in, start moving the bracket around until you align the holes for the top bolt then you can feed the top bolt through.
Thread the top bolt in just before it starts getting tight. Then head down to the bottom bolt and get that one. Stop until it's about to get tight.
Then head back up to the top bolt. And try get a few clicks on, then back to the boom one. Do not over tighten them. I didn't bother looking up torque specs for that because there was no way in a hell anyone can get a regular torque wrench in there.
The Crawford AOS install pdf can cover you on the hoses and where they need to go. No new tricks there.
You will need to trim the 20inch hose they have given you to fit better into the tight area.
The only hoses I recommend connecting before putting the intercooler back on are the ports coming out to right of the AOS.
Before you put the intercooler on. Take your hose remover pliers and get a thick rag. Go to the breather line hose that your gunna have to remove and put the rag over the breather line. Then put the pliers in between the end pf the hose and the butt stop of the breather line. Your gunna have to try and jiggle it off as well. The first initial movements of the hose will slide back quite a bit. But it's gunna stop right when the clamp gets to the bard.
DO NOT YANK ON THE HOSE OR DO ANYTHING WITH THE HOSE BECAUSE YOU WILL DAMAGE IT. FOCUS YOUR ATTENTION ON GETTING THE PLIERS TO DO THE WORK FOR YOU. THEY WILL WORK. THE METHOD I HAVE JUST DESCRIBED ABOVE COMES STRAIGHT OUT OF THE 2017 STI factory service manual.
IMG_0519 by Brod C, on Flickr
You will need to do the same thing for the other end of the hose to get the white connector off. This was really on there. Mine connector shot off about 100ft after I got it loose lol but it survived.
Now after you got all that squared away put the intercooler back on and make sure you torque everything correctly.
***PRO TIP: Take a dash of oil from your Dipstick and put around the lip of the turbocharger,and charge pipe as well as the throttle body coupling.
The intercooler has no problem going back on. The hoses do not make it any more or less difficult. If it takes you longer than 10 seconds to put it on. Put a little bit of more oil on there. The less oil u use to put it on the better.
Try and get your 50" and 55" hoses that connect to the from end of the AOS are properly ran and do some trimming if you need it and connect those lines. For reference in my picture below we, the 1/2" inch hose is on the left.
After you got everything put back on and hoses connected. Grab the 43 1/2inch hose crawford supplied originally and connect one end of the hose to white connector you removed earlier. Use a hose clamp to secure. Then connect it to the breather line hose you relocated at the beginning.
**PRO TIP: Take the hose clamp off around the black connector. After you have freed it, spin the connection 180 degrees so it is oreintated the same way as the picture below then throw a hose clamp on there and call it a day. The only thing I have ziptied is the wires running off the sensor. The way the hoses are shaped it actually kind of supports itself up. I looped the Up tie around the back of the bottom of the hose clamp on the AOS. I'll have to play with this a little more to get a more OEM look.
After you make that connection. Plug the white and black connection back together. Now you can run the hose up like I did in the picture below. Then after you got the desired route, trim the hose.
And boom your done. Connect the ground and let it sit for a few minutes. Per service manual, push the start button twice, without pushing the clutch in and let the radio kick on and everything and once it's booted. Then clutch in and turn the ignition on. Let it idle till it warms up and the fans cycle twice.
Now you have installed the Crawford V3 AOS on your 2017 and 2018 STI. My STI does not operate any differently than it did before it was installed. And to me, that's a plus.
I am sure there is stuff I am missing. If you follow my steps it will take you no time at all. I tried installing this two times prior to this third attempt. This is by far the optimal layout for this specific year of STI.
If needed I can shed light in why the 2017-2018 STI'S are different in regards to emissions but that's not what the thread is about.
For more information on the 2017-2018 STI PCV system, and leak diagnosis connections please see the IAG AOS install for that year model. They have good pictures of the connections.
But there you have it. Everything you need to know to get the job done right. Because that is the only way it should be done. No jamming hoses or stretching them. It needs to look clean and professional.
The only area of concern can be seen below. I have not had any problems thus far, and to be honest, the only reason the hoses look like they are crammed in there is because of the sleeving that is around them which makes them bigger, but also provides more security against rubbing. There is no way around this but i have checked everything and nothing has burned through or vibrations cause any tears.
IMG_0522 by Brod C, on Flickr
IMG_0524 by Brod C, on Flickr
IMG_0501 by Brod C, on Flickr
My hoses were molested during this entire process as i tried a million different ways to figure out which one was best. Don't be alarmed by the scars on the hoses.
This was my first purchase from Crawford, and although I did run into this snag, they really came through in customer service and got the materials I needed shipped to my door FAST! It was very nice to see that quality of service
**IF ANYONE NEEDS BETTER PICTURES OF ANYTHING ELSE PLEASE LET ME KNOW BEFORE 10/20/2017 AS I AM HELPING MY BUDDY WHO ALSO HAS A 2017 STI TO PUT HIS ON.
This was the end result of my install, on my 2017 STI.
IMG_0503 by Brod C, on FlickrThe additional hose lengths you will need, 1x 55" 1/2" ventilation hose, 1x 50" 3/8" PCV hose.
**You will need to use the supplied 43" 1/2" ventilation hose to relocate the breather line that runs off the passenger head.
All the tools I suggest buying are recommended, if you want to struggle with installing it and make yourself work harder, than by all means don't get anything at all.
TOOLS:
1. 12mm ratcheting wrench. It needs to be about 8-10" inches in length, the longer the better. and a 12 point head would be better so you dont have to keep turning the wrench to get the teeth to bite.
2. Telescoping magnetic tool
3. Telescoping mirror (will explain this later)
4. Hose Remover Pliers- This is the recommended style of tool to remove those pesky band clamps on the 2017 and up STI's. Get these. Its alot better than taking a dremel to the hose, or yanking on the hose itself to remove the clamp.
4.1 hose cutters.
5. Sleeving to prevent friction on the bends. (I used more than you really needed to) Amazon.com: 25ft-3/4" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving ?Blackred ?Alex Tech cable management sleeve cord organizer for wrap & protect cables: Home Audio & Theater
6. Extra hose clamps, just buy an assortment of smaller ones for the appropriate sized hoses.
7. Of course zip ties.
8. a torque wrench, with a 1/4 inch drive because its the only torque wrench that can go as low as 3 Nm.
Torque Specs: I am going to arrange the parts based on amount of torque.
3 Nm - Throttle body hose clamps, and turbocharger clamp
8 Nm - Throttle body bolts connecting to the intake manifold. (Need to check this one)
16 Nm - Intercooler stays, these are brackets where one is is bolted to the intake manifold, and the other end is connected via the singular bolts on each end of the intercooler on the left and right side. The air bypass valve.
***PLEASE TRY AND KEEP THE BOLTS ORGANIZED AND MAKE SURE THE BOLT THAT YOU PULL OUT GETS THREADED BACK INTO THAT SAME ONE.
I had an issue with this mounting the AOS. Turns out one of the bolts i had, which followed the exact same thread pattern and bolt size but for some reason half of the first thread was gone and I could not thread the bolt in. So i switched with a similar bolt which had threads all the way around, and boom. Went in, no problem.
INSTALL:
1. DO NOT PULL ANY HOSES OFF WHEN TAKING THE INTERCOOLER OFF.
1.1 - Disconnect the leak diagnosis connections on the intercooler. There are three. 1 runs to the bottom left of the intercooler. The second hose disconnects to the left of the alternator. the third hose is to the right on the intercooler. There is an additional sensor on this plus that will need to be unplugged. (**PRO TIP - don't try and disconnect the third connection yet)
1.2 Remove the bolts from the air bypass valve, with 12 mm socket.
1.3 Remove the intercooler stay on the right hand side of the intercooler with a 12 mm socket. 1 bolt is connecting the intercooler, and the other 2 bolts are connecting the bracket to the manifold. pull the bracket out completely. Then loosen the remove the bolt on the left.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the throttle body with a 8mm socket or screwdriver or flathead. then loosen the clamp on the turbocharger.
2.1 Push the intercooler up and back to the backside of the car. You will need to jiggle it with some force. After it has freed itself from the throttle body, you should have more room on the right hand side to disconnect the "third" sensor i talked about in step 1.
2.2 After disconnecting the sensor, jiggle the intercooler to the right and it should free itself from the turbocharger, and then boom the intercooler is out.
3. Mounting the AOS- The tips i am going to give you will be the difference between a 3 day install and a few hours install.
3. Run your hand underneath the power steering line which is marked AA. You want to grab the hose that's in the picture below and position it the same way I have done below in the picture this connects to the leak diagnosis connector that you disconnected when removing the intercooler.Disconnect the actual sensor with wires coming out the back by sticking a small flat head at the bottom and pressing down on the clip to seperate the sensor from the connection.
***the goal for relocating this hose is to ALWAYS make sure it's MAINTAINING A DOWNWARD SLOPE and NO SHARP BENDS IN HOSE.
After the hose has been re-located. Leave it there. It will be the very last thing we connect after everything is put back.
4. Remove the bolts that Crawford says to remove on the injector cover. its 2 12 mm bolts. This is where the ratcheting wrench comes in handy.
4.1 Take the telescoping mirror and try and get a view on the bracket that is over the injector cover. You will most likely notice that the bracket is out of alignment. What you would have done without that mirror is spent hours trying to jam the bolts in with force when you did not actually know there was a reason they weren't going in....
4.2 To manipulate that bracket into place, look on top of the turbocharger housing, and you will see the intercooler stay that holds the left side of the intercooler up. There is a bolt to the right of that hole that you need to remove with a 12mm socket. The bolt with the purple dot on it, is the bolt you want to remove.
IMG_0499 by Brod C, on Flickr4.3 After taking that bolt out, you can now manipulate the bracket to align itself with the intake manifold bolt holes. This bracket gives you leverage which you can then use to align it back up.
*** you can zip ties to keep the hoses out of the way.
4.4 mount that B**** on screw the bolts on. Start with only the bottom bolt first and get a few threads in.
After it's in, start moving the bracket around until you align the holes for the top bolt then you can feed the top bolt through.
Thread the top bolt in just before it starts getting tight. Then head down to the bottom bolt and get that one. Stop until it's about to get tight.
Then head back up to the top bolt. And try get a few clicks on, then back to the boom one. Do not over tighten them. I didn't bother looking up torque specs for that because there was no way in a hell anyone can get a regular torque wrench in there.
The Crawford AOS install pdf can cover you on the hoses and where they need to go. No new tricks there.
You will need to trim the 20inch hose they have given you to fit better into the tight area.
The only hoses I recommend connecting before putting the intercooler back on are the ports coming out to right of the AOS.
Before you put the intercooler on. Take your hose remover pliers and get a thick rag. Go to the breather line hose that your gunna have to remove and put the rag over the breather line. Then put the pliers in between the end pf the hose and the butt stop of the breather line. Your gunna have to try and jiggle it off as well. The first initial movements of the hose will slide back quite a bit. But it's gunna stop right when the clamp gets to the bard.
DO NOT YANK ON THE HOSE OR DO ANYTHING WITH THE HOSE BECAUSE YOU WILL DAMAGE IT. FOCUS YOUR ATTENTION ON GETTING THE PLIERS TO DO THE WORK FOR YOU. THEY WILL WORK. THE METHOD I HAVE JUST DESCRIBED ABOVE COMES STRAIGHT OUT OF THE 2017 STI factory service manual.
IMG_0519 by Brod C, on FlickrYou will need to do the same thing for the other end of the hose to get the white connector off. This was really on there. Mine connector shot off about 100ft after I got it loose lol but it survived.
Now after you got all that squared away put the intercooler back on and make sure you torque everything correctly.
***PRO TIP: Take a dash of oil from your Dipstick and put around the lip of the turbocharger,and charge pipe as well as the throttle body coupling.
The intercooler has no problem going back on. The hoses do not make it any more or less difficult. If it takes you longer than 10 seconds to put it on. Put a little bit of more oil on there. The less oil u use to put it on the better.
Try and get your 50" and 55" hoses that connect to the from end of the AOS are properly ran and do some trimming if you need it and connect those lines. For reference in my picture below we, the 1/2" inch hose is on the left.
After you got everything put back on and hoses connected. Grab the 43 1/2inch hose crawford supplied originally and connect one end of the hose to white connector you removed earlier. Use a hose clamp to secure. Then connect it to the breather line hose you relocated at the beginning.
**PRO TIP: Take the hose clamp off around the black connector. After you have freed it, spin the connection 180 degrees so it is oreintated the same way as the picture below then throw a hose clamp on there and call it a day. The only thing I have ziptied is the wires running off the sensor. The way the hoses are shaped it actually kind of supports itself up. I looped the Up tie around the back of the bottom of the hose clamp on the AOS. I'll have to play with this a little more to get a more OEM look.
After you make that connection. Plug the white and black connection back together. Now you can run the hose up like I did in the picture below. Then after you got the desired route, trim the hose.
And boom your done. Connect the ground and let it sit for a few minutes. Per service manual, push the start button twice, without pushing the clutch in and let the radio kick on and everything and once it's booted. Then clutch in and turn the ignition on. Let it idle till it warms up and the fans cycle twice.
Now you have installed the Crawford V3 AOS on your 2017 and 2018 STI. My STI does not operate any differently than it did before it was installed. And to me, that's a plus.
I am sure there is stuff I am missing. If you follow my steps it will take you no time at all. I tried installing this two times prior to this third attempt. This is by far the optimal layout for this specific year of STI.
If needed I can shed light in why the 2017-2018 STI'S are different in regards to emissions but that's not what the thread is about.
For more information on the 2017-2018 STI PCV system, and leak diagnosis connections please see the IAG AOS install for that year model. They have good pictures of the connections.
But there you have it. Everything you need to know to get the job done right. Because that is the only way it should be done. No jamming hoses or stretching them. It needs to look clean and professional.
The only area of concern can be seen below. I have not had any problems thus far, and to be honest, the only reason the hoses look like they are crammed in there is because of the sleeving that is around them which makes them bigger, but also provides more security against rubbing. There is no way around this but i have checked everything and nothing has burned through or vibrations cause any tears.
IMG_0522 by Brod C, on FlickrIMG_0524 by Brod C, on FlickrIMG_0501 by Brod C, on FlickrMy hoses were molested during this entire process as i tried a million different ways to figure out which one was best. Don't be alarmed by the scars on the hoses.
