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Discussion Starter #141
for digging up this old post, but I am really interested in this setup. I bought myself a 2011 sti with a stock suspension setup, so I have ‘carte blance’ on this.
Is there a particular order in which these parts need to be installed? When I install the spoon collars and S206 subframe bolts, will they have to come off again for other parts?
The Rigid Collars will not come off again when installing the other parts as they are pressed on between the mainframe and the subframe. Ther rear flexible support installation requires the removal of a couple of rear subframe bolts.



There is no particular order that I know of to install these parts, but I would just install the entire S206 NBR chassis parts together in one go. You may install the Rigid Collar first before it if you want.
 

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Thank you for your reply. I am going to import all the parts from Japan, but in stages due to high import taxes.

Also, I am interested in the changing behavior of the car while upgrading only several parts at once. I think I will begin with the collars and bolts, then the STi performance package and finally the rest.

I will keep you updated about my experience if you are interested! Your read was very informative for my decision. I am also trying to keep the car comfortable and predictable while increasing the fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
No worries.

Another parts to get to further refine the ride without sacrificing the performance are the AVO front adjustable endlinks and the AVO rear adjustable endlinks. Same principle of removing unnecessary stiffness by removing stabilizer pre-load - especially the rear stabilizer bar.
 

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Nice, that would come after the S206 parts for me. Did you use the STi pink springs as well (for OEM shocks)? Lowers the car by 10mm only, but reduces toll greatly as I understand. Those are also on my wish list.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
No I never use the STI Pinks, but they lower the GV model by 5mm as it is already 5mm lower than the GR - hence 10mm lowering is true for the GR model.

The setup works very well on standard shocks/spring though. I am not sure where you are but your profile has France flag so I take it your car model is EU spec which should be the same as my UK-Type. Be sure to follow the recommended cold tire pressure of 2.3bar front and 1.9bar rear. You will however need to raise the rear tire pressure to 31psi, once you free the rear swaybar preload. The front can remain the same.

My current setup are as follow:
S206 NBR chassis parts.
Spoon Rigid Collar.
Bilstein B16 coilover.
AVO adjustable endlinks
HKS rear strut bar (needed when using coilover).
Michellin Pilot Super Sport 245/35/19
Enkei GTC-01 19x8.5.

Everything else are standard suspension wise.
 

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Thank you for clarifying! I am also considering the bilsteins (I had a B12 set on my previous WRX), but I found them a bit harsh in the long run. B16 has adjustable damping, so it is still to be decided. I need to read a bit more about it, the standard shocks are pretty good already.

19”x8,5j wheels with 245/35 Michelin super sport tires have my attention too, completing the S206 look and feel :) choices, choices!

I am from the Netherlands by the way, when you tilt your screen 90 degrees you get the French flag :)
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Yikes! Pardon me for the error ;D

And yes the standard shocks and springs are supposedly the same as Spec C; and they are epic at high speed. Low speed it can get a bit too reactive; which the S206 parts, rigid collar and avo adjustable endlinks will solve.

So I advise you not to be in rush to swap the shocks/springs. The main reason for me to get the B16 is because I wanted to correct the corner height. Oh i almost forgot I actually uses 1.25cm spacer between the shocks top mount to have a net lowering of around 0.75cm - to correct the geometry.
 

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Haha don’t worry about it! Common mixup. When people hear us talk we are Germans half the time ;)

I will definitely look into those AVO endlinks, they look promising. The roads close to our house are a bit terrible, so the whole package probably will help a lot.

Nice to see another ‘nerd’ like me, being careful with geometry changes. Thanks again for all your info, I am going to order the first step this month, being the collars and longer bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Yes but be sure to get this version:



pillowball on bottom mount to allow it to tilt back and forth by up to 30 degrees.
 

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Oh, one more thing. Do you know which parts require aligning the car? The springs and/or shocks of course, but the rest? Better to do this in one go.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
hmmm I am not sure about what you meant but I’ll mention these:

Pay attention to the Flexible drawer stiffener; for GV the front needs to be extended by 3mm. The rear FDS just follow the manual. It is in the manual but of course they are in Japanese. But the diagram is pretty clear about it. And when you tighten the turnbuckle be sure the balljoint is dead center.

The Rigid Collar will align the subframes to be dead center, so no need to use the subframe alignment hole to re center.

After all that then or course you can dial in your preferred wheel alignment setup. Normally I just zero all the toe and max out the front camber. But sometimes I like a bit if rear toe in for highway top speed. Though I swear it felt stiffer when the rear is toed-in.

Adjusting the rear toe will affect the camber and they work as a one system. Toe in will result positive camber and toe out will result in negative camber.
 

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I was referring to wheel alignment, sorry if it was a bit vague. But you did answer my question: I can go for a fresh alignment once I am finished with the parts. Good to know! Thanks for the additions.
 

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So... I ordered several parts to begin this exiting experiment. I wanted to start off with the collars, but some STi parts are getting rare. This resulted in me ordering them sooner.

Now waiting for the flexible strut tower bar, flexible low stiffer, flexible support rear, flexible draw stiffener rear and the support front kit.

The lateral link assembly, rigid collars and longer subframe bolts are for the next order. Those are more common thankfully. I am facing around 30-35% import taxes, so I decided to split up the costs a bit.

Question: How many of the longer ST20159ST000 (or 20157E) bolts are needed for the ‘official’ S206 setup? Only 2 bolts in the rear subframe? I can’t find a conclusive answer anywhere.

Oh, and for those wondering: I have the official S206 (satin silver) mirrorcaps here. Those do NOT fit the European side mirror housings. So... I have to look for some JDM mirrors now haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Question: How many of the longer ST20159ST000 (or 20157E) bolts are needed for the ‘official’ S206 setup? Only 2 bolts in the rear subframe? I can’t find a conclusive answer anywhere.
You need two of the long subframe bolt and they are to be used on the rear flexible arm support that connects the chassis and the subframe. But you can use it to replace all four rear subframe bolts (Is what I did).
 

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Alright, good to know. I did read the whole tread, but was not entirely convinced what Subaru did on the S206. I will probably use four as well then. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Subaru did used two. But yeah, I mean why not use four? Haha.

Oh, this bolt is also popular for BRZ/GT86.

Note: I believe the subframe bolt is a one time use. And if so, you will need to replace the bolts again later when you install the rear flexible support.
 

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Makes you wonder why they did not use four to begin with, when it’s ‘plug and play’. Would it also fit the front subframe and would it make a difference?

anyway, I will replace them in the end together with the spoon collars. I will need a realignment as well, since I forgot to note I ordered the pink STi springs too. Maybe I will wait installing those together with the bolts and sorts.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
They probably see a necessity to use a stronger bolt for the flexible arm support. It doesn't hurt to replace all four - but it is not necessary.

No it won't fit front subframe. The S206 rear subframe bolt is longer and beefier and the first time I saw it I was having doubt will it even fit in the rear subframe.
 
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