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Combating Intake Heat Soak

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98K views 156 replies 36 participants last post by  Heide264  
#1 · (Edited)
On top of the usual flawed engineering of turbcharged Subaru engines, the EJ is notoriously known for intake heat soak. We all are aware that heat soak causes the ECU to retard timing to save the motor, which in exchange reduces power and efficiency. And in this time of season, the summer heat only adds more fuel to the fire...

Let's reflect. First off, the front intake snorkus or scoop located under the hood, sits on top of the blazing hot radiator. From there, the already hot air is fed into the airbox where it passes through the MAF sensor, which then enters the intake elbow that is heated again by two more radiator hoses clipped on top of it. Continuing on, the air is sucked into the turbo via the turbo inlet. The air is compressed in the turbo's compressor housing, become more hot before entering the "omghot" TMIC that is massively heat soaked by turbo's hot section. All of this, combined with hot climate ambients and/or sitting in traffic can lead to heat soak until the car is in motion. But getting the car in motion only helps so much. We need to add some heat insulation to the first thing the air passes through.



The one thing I noticed when I check my oil levels is that the intake snorkus is hot to the touch after driving for quite a while. And as I mentioned, it sits above the scorching radiator. Putting something like this heat barrier insulation from DEI, under the snorkus can greatly reduce temps. It is a heat resistant, malleable aluminum sheet with some sort of thick internal fibers that withstands +1000°F and conforms to any shape or surface. It's adhesive backing withstands +400°F for high temp mounting under the hood.




I had first mocked up the heat barrier with some cardboard and then cut them to shape after tracing. The area under the snorkus has lots of indentations and bends so I had to cut it in pieces to make it work. Remember to watch area where the two rad hoses pass through as the aluminum can cut them.


Next comes sealing the gaps with high temp sealant to help bind them together and keep it seemless. I used high temp Permatex silicone. The sealant dries in an hour but allow it to cure for 24 hours before reinstalling the intake snorkus.



Reinstalled after 24 hours. Still fits like stock. Now for some test results...


This is the outside ambient temp tonight. It's been pretty warm at night here in Hawaii. Sorry for the blurry pics, I took it while driving (yeah I shouldn't do that).


Before moving onto the results, here are some references to comparison on my Cobb AP before I did this mod the night before.

Ambient: 84°F
Min: 88°F (+4°F)
Max: 102°F (+18°F)
Cruising: 96°F (+12°F)

Here are the blurry results while driving (apologies again). The DEI heat barrier helped a ton. Temp deltas are very close to ambient. Never did it go over 90°F and the intake snorkus was cool to the touch as if it was never ran. However the barrier was hot of course because it absorbed all the heat.

Ambient: 82°F
Min: 84°F (+2°F)
Max: 90°F (+8°F)
Cruising: 86°F (+4°F)



So far, this is an effective mod and a great start to keep heat soak at bay. I am going to continue gathering more data, especially during the day when ambients are higher in the 90's.

I'm also going to build my own airbox for my Cobb SF Intake that is sitting on the side. Cobb hasn't released an airbox for the 2015 STI SF intake as of yet but I will be experimenting and building one with Kydex (ABS plastic used for knife sheaths and gun holsters) for better heat resistance than Cobb's aluminum airbox. I was always against aftermarket intakes but since I am getting it protuned, I might was well reap the benefits. Stay tuned...
 
#2 · (Edited)
Daytime testing

This is from today on the drive to work. A mix of freeway and stop-n-go traffic. Again, it helped a lot. The intake snorkus was a bit warmer than last night but still cool enough to leave your hand on it all day.

Ambient temp and time.


During cruise on the freeway. 99°F, a +6 above ambient delta. Amazing.


Driving through town in stop-n-go traffic. 120°F, a +23°F max delta and much lower difference before the insulation.
Dont mind the FKLC and FBKC values. They're just there during part throttle but cleanly learning to 0 when going WOT.


Daytime results

Before

Ambient: 90°F
Min: 99°F (+9°F)
Max: 133°F (+43°F)
Cruise: 104 (+14°F)

After

Ambient: 93°F
Min: 95°F (+2°F)
Max: 120°F (+27°F)
Cruise: 99 (+6°F)

Even with higher ambients than yesterday, temp deltas were cut down to almost half the original with just the intake snorkus insulation alone. Can't wait to see what my custom SF intake box will do...
 
#3 · (Edited)
Improving the Cobb SF Intake

Okay, this segment is dedicated to improving the Cobb SF Intake short ram IATs by building a box that encloses the filter away from underhood heat while still retaining the insulated intake snorkus, much like Cobb's very own SF intake box.

Stage 1: Baseline Temps Without Airbox





To start off, I already installed the SF intake, as seen above, and flashed the ECU to Stage 1+. And while driving to work at around 1:30pm this afternoon, these were my temps with the SF Intake without a box. Boy it made me cry:

(sorry for no pics)

Ambient: 92°F
Min: 99°F (+7°F)
Max: 161°F (+69°F!!!)
Cruise: 108 (+16°F)

These are night temps on the way home:

Ambient: 82°F
Min: 88°F (+6°F)
Max: 108°F (26+°F)
Cruise: 100°F (+18°F)

Evidently, I went ass backwards by installing the SF intake. It worsened the results of my DIY insulation on the intake snorkus. However let's hope my DIY airbox can cut down temps further than the insulated snorkus alone. I heard through the grapevine that Cobb's 2015 STI SF airbox may be released as soon as next month, but I need my airbox come October 3-6 when I get my protune. Oh well, more to come...

Stage 2: Results With Mockup Airbox

Okay, I managed to finish the cardboard mockup and take it to work....yes, you read it right: Drive to work with a ghetto cardboard airbox. Lo and behold, the results were astounding compared to the stock OEM airbox. Look at the end of this stage for the numbers.

Here you see the general layout of the box. It's cut out similar to the Cobb SF airbox but with a little modifications.


With the top off. The intake snorkus hole is a perfect, snug fit


Notice I fully enclosed the hole where the MAF housing passes through. Cobb's airbox has a massive gaping hole where heat enters, but it serves its purpose for servicing the air filter.



Also pay attention to the huge hole in front of the airbox, that area is open to engine bay heat.


Here's my fix. I added a section that I will eventually bend and conform to the fender/radiator support, then secure it with pop rivets.



The lid installed and sealed from the heat.



Ready to rock 'n roll.



Results

Same commute to and from work; 70% highway, 30% city. Temps are after car has warmed up and AP reset before taking pics.

Day (1:30pm)
Ambient: 88°F
Min: 91°F (+3°F)
Max: 117°F (+29°F) ...taken when parked at work.
Cruise: 98°F (+10°F)

Night (10:49pm)
Ambient: 84°F
Min: 84°F (0°F)
Max: 90°F (+4°F)
Cruise: 86°F (+2°F)




This is frickin hilarious!! I can't believe a ghetto, uninsulated carboard airbox beats the stock airbox numbers. I can't wait to fab up my Kydex airbox lol!!

Stage 3: Results With Kydex Airbox

Finshed the front bottom section behind the passenger headlight. I bent another piece up and slapped some more heat barrier and lined a couple of the edges with rubber seal to prevent cutting/shorting wires. It's secured by a pop rivet and some industrial velcro.




Here is an IAT comparison. My daily commute consists of 70% highway, 30% stop 'n go during the hottest time of day. I let the engine warm up and then reset the AP before going out to drive.

Check here for other stock values: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4051344-post2.html

Before (Stock airbox, non-insulated snorkus):

Ambient: 90°F
Min: 99°F (+9°F)
Max: 133°F (+43°F)
Cruise: 104°F (+14°F)

After (Cobb SF Intake w/Kydex Box, insulated snorkus):

Ambient: 90°F
Min: 91°F (+1°F)
Max: 100°F (+10°F)
Cruise: 97°F (+8°F)




Overall, I'm totally impressed. This costed me about half the price of the actual SF airbox, which still allows heat to to be drawn in.
 
#7 ·
Heat soak has plagued turbo EJ engines ever since it was released back in '92. It's always been a problem every year. And if the ambient temps are high, heat soak will be relatively increased. Before this mod, on a hot day, it was for example:

Ambient: 90°F
Min: 99°F (+9°F)
Max: 133°F (+43°F)
Cruise: 104°F (+14°F)

Keep in mind my numbers are after the engine is fully warmed up and the AP values are then reset.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Funny you mentioned the link. I'm actually using this for my airbox.

I already put a piece of Kydex through heat trials under the hood for a couple of days and it passed. I just have to wait until I can get the car down for a few days to measure and build the airbox.
 
#12 ·
I put a ptp lave turbo blanket on my hot side turbo and it does help in keeping the intercooler from heat soaking as well as helping compressor side of the turbo cooler. It also helps with lag reduction due to quicker spool up. I have a DIY install on the site. After driving around in the middle of summer I can open the hood and notice the difference.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
#22 ·
I briefly had a GR before my new car and asked my friend/mechanic about heat soak (specifically at the track) since that was my first Subaru (he drives an 08 STI.) He kind of downplayed the problem, said keeping it running for a few minutes after a session was a good idea, but that modern engines were reasonably efficient, etc. He did, however, point me to an interesting vid the wacky Aussies at MightyMods produced about painting your IC black (it's long at 12 min, skip ahead 6 min if you're impatient and you won't miss the test results)

Black Intercoolers Mythbusted - YouTube

So if I've followed your results correctly Joe, you've cooled your intake temps 13 degrees. Is that a significant difference? It's an honest question, I really don't know the answer. And are you more concerned with immediate power loss/inducing limp mode or just long-term degradation of parts subject to higher temps? Has anyone induced limp mode or felt power loss in GRs or the '15s during hard running/hot weather?

(Off topic, with your helpful post proving the Perrin AOS fits the '15s, I had mine installed and haven't used a drop of oil after track use & DD in 2500 mi. :tup:)
 
#25 ·
I briefly had a GR before my new car and asked my friend/mechanic about heat soak (specifically at the track) since that was my first Subaru (he drives an 08 STI.) He kind of downplayed the problem, said keeping it running for a few minutes after a session was a good idea, but that modern engines were reasonably efficient, etc. He did, however, point me to an interesting vid the wacky Aussies at MightyMods produced about painting your IC black (it's long at 12 min, skip ahead 6 min if you're impatient and you won't miss the test results)

Black Intercoolers Mythbusted - YouTube

So if I've followed your results correctly Joe, you've cooled your intake temps 13 degrees. Is that a significant difference? It's an honest question, I really don't know the answer. And are you more concerned with immediate power loss/inducing limp mode or just long-term degradation of parts subject to higher temps? Has anyone induced limp mode or felt power loss in GRs or the '15s during hard running/hot weather?

(Off topic, with your helpful post proving the Perrin AOS fits the '15s, I had mine installed and haven't used a drop of oil after track use & DD in 2500 mi. :tup:)
Yes people have documented power loss due to temperature.
 
#32 ·
Subbed. Very interesting results and awesome DIY's gents. Will strongly consider doing something like this in the future. Oh how the potential mods keep stacking up! Make sure to post some pics when your done your custom airbox there JoeJoe
 
#37 · (Edited)
yeah the cobb SF (or any short ram type intake) are aweful for high intake temps. unless you build an airbox, its actually a downgrade in that sense...

One thing I want to add about the airbox I built: I also have a ram air duct from the front bumper going through the fender to right next to the intake. This is a critical part of lowering IATs for a short ram intake. Otherwise, even with an airbox, you're still sucking up hot air.

heres ram air opening in the bumper (fog light bezel):
Image


you can see the other end of the duct inside the airbox here:
Image


and here:
Image


BTW, that other hole to the fender by the duct into the airbox is now covered with a subaru part made specifically to close up that hole :) (there is duct tape as a place holder in the first pic...)
 
#39 ·
Unfortunately the 2015, I have to sacrifice the passenger foglight for that, which I do not look forward to. My design will seal all ends around the airbox, even below the headlight support. Also, behind the plastic foglight surround, there is a small hole on the bumper support that can duct air up into the airbox. That will require the plastic mesh to be cut out though.
 
#46 ·
#51 ·
I finally finished the box this morning but I still have to fab the front lower section to block heat entirely. This is the one of many features which differentiates my box box from Cobb's, in addition to the airbox material and tighter seal. I also have to wait for 10' of rubber edge to arrive then I can start gathering data and update the 3rd post. But let me tell you, at its current state, it's already making me smile.

Everything all bolted up. But it still needs extra thermal protection.



Heatshield Products Lava Mat. Resistant up to 1200°F, 2000°F spontaneous. Looks sexy like carbon fiber. The lid brackets are secured by 90° bent 1/8" aluminum with expansion nuts. DEI thermal barrier is also added inside the box for extra heat prevention.



Dropped in and secured.





Looks closer to stock from the top than Cobb's.




Hope you enjoyed the progress.