IW STi Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've searched and couldn't seem to really find anything... I have a 06 Sti, I recently installed an Stage 2 Act clutch on it.. Ever since I installed the clutch I have about 1-2" of free play before the clutch engages. It's hard to put the shifter into gear (1st and reverse especially). I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder and it's still doing it. Any ideas ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I've searched and couldn't seem to really find anything... I have a 06 Sti, I recently installed an Stage 2 Act clutch on it.. Ever since I installed the clutch I have about 1-2" of free play before the clutch engages. It's hard to put the shifter into gear (1st and reverse especially). I just replaced the clutch slave cylinder and it's still doing it. Any ideas ???
My friend had the same issue, found that the clutch fork slid out of place. Make sure the clutch fork is in its proper position, I was able to use a pry bar and got it in place carefully.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I haven't checked under my car but a lot of hydraulic clutch setups have a window for free play adjust. If you can physically place the car in gear I highly doubt anything related too the clutch fork other than lack of complete disengagement is wrong. I recently purchased my car and have first focused on clean shifting, I'm new too the subie scene but have always heard these cars have a reputation for notchy Shifting. Myself being a bit of a perfectionist have finally remedied my cars inconsistent clutch disengagement. I started by first bleeding the clutch with high quality fluid and swapping my tranny fluid for some suburu extra s. While this made a large improvement I still wasn't satisfied with my cold temperature shifting as well as how my shifting became super notchy whenever my car was heatsoaked in town. My theory on this was once Underhood temps reached a certain temp my stock rubber clutch line became extra soft and effectively limited clutch disengagement by limiting slave cylinder travel due too some of the pressurized fluid displacement being taken up in the act of stretching the rubber hose. My solution was a $2x.xx goodridge SS clutch line. At the same time I also gutted my master cylinder of the anti dump valve as described here http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/33019-clutch-delay-valve-delete-alternative-method-4.html the creator suggests his clutch released much closer too the floor than before. While I did notice it released ever so slightly closer too the floor I was really satisfied at the reduction in clutch pedal weight. I highly suggest this modification too anyone capable of it. My shifting is perfect now, no notchiness or difficulty to place in gear. The car drives so much better now, It did take a while too properly bleed the clutch after requiring about half a bottle of super blue brake fluid. If you blead your clutch or opened the hydraulics I suggest starting there and working your way up, when bleeding my clutch I had similar symptoms too what your describing until I pumped my pedal extra slow to restore an air free system. You can take the slave off the car without removing the starter. If replacing the rubber line I suggest removing the line from the clutch master and removing the line bracket by the pitch mount so you can separate the too off the car. My car has zero rust yet still required the stock line to be placed in a vise and heated even after several sessions of pblaster too prevent any further distortion of the stock flare nut even while using a quality flare nut wrench. Also the clutch line too slave cylinder torque is 14 ft lbs. Best of luck, you'll really appreciate the mod when your your done. If you guys have any questions let me know, just make sure you get a couple different sizes of long clear hose to run from the bleader too a container. It's nice too do because it prevents brake fluid from damaging your paint or creating smoke or fumes and it allows you too view your fluid removed as well as if you are still purging air. Just remember while bleeding its probably better too over do it if you are unsure if your pedal is soggy like I felt while my buddy cursed its late than having too reinstall the tmic only to have to remove and reinstall once more because you were in a hurry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Now that I see you replaced the slave I would definitely rebleed it. I had the same feeling with mine even tho I didn't appear to continue purging air. Also have a friend watch your clutch fork while just engaging the free play portion of the pedal too see if it moves or not. Mine has a bit of free play feeling but the fork moves the whole time. I know some cars have free play in the pedal and some don't. I know Honda's do as I have seen the factory videos on adjustment but their throw out bearing don't ride the pressure plate the way our cars do with the clutch fork sprung against the pressure plate fingers. if you still have this problem after lots of slow bleeding I would look under the dash and find the clutch pedal pushrod(on my 2008 it is right above the gas pedal, it's threaded I would loosen the locknut and adjust until all slack or 98percent of it between the clutch fork and the slave without the spring on the clutch fork pressure is removed(this is only needed if your free play is an actual adjustment issue not a hydraulic system problem from air. This would probably be the case if you had the free play problem prior to any service or work performed on the clutchs hydraulic circuit.Then reinstall the spring and enjoy your car without a bunch of freeplay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I haven't checked under my car but a lot of hydraulic clutch setups have a window for free play adjust. If you can physically place the car in gear I highly doubt anything related too the clutch fork other than lack of complete disengagement is wrong. I recently purchased my car and have first focused on clean shifting, I'm new too the subie scene but have always heard these cars have a reputation for notchy Shifting. Myself being a bit of a perfectionist have finally remedied my cars inconsistent clutch disengagement. I started by first bleeding the clutch with high quality fluid and swapping my tranny fluid for some suburu extra s. While this made a large improvement I still wasn't satisfied with my cold temperature shifting as well as how my shifting became super notchy whenever my car was heatsoaked in town. My theory on this was once Underhood temps reached a certain temp my stock rubber clutch line became extra soft and effectively limited clutch disengagement by limiting slave cylinider travel due too some of the pressurized fluid displacement being taken up in the act of stretching the rubber hose. My solution was a $2x.xx goodridge SS clutch line. At the same time I also gutted my master cylinder of the anti dump valve as described here http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/33019-clutch-delay-valve-delete-alternative-method-4.html the creator suggests his clutch released much closer too the floor than before. While I did notice it released ever so slightly closer too the floor I was really satisfied at the reduction in clutch pedal weight. I highly suggest this modification too anyone capable of it. My shifting is perfect now, no notchiness or difficulty to place in gear. The car drives so much better now, It did take a while too properly bleed the clutch after requiring about half a bottle of super blue brake fluid. If you blead your clutch or opened the hydraulics I suggest starting there and working your way up, when bleeding my clutch I had similar symptoms too what your describing until I pumped my pedal extra slow to restore an air free system. You can take the slave off the car without removing the starter. If replacing the rubber line I suggest removing the line from the clutch master and removing the line bracket by the pitch mount so you can separate the too off the car. My car has zero rust yet still required the stock line to be placed in a vise and heated even after several sessions of pblaster too prevent any further distortion of the stock flare nut even while using a quality flare nut wrench. Also the clutch line too slave cylinder torque is 14 ft lbs. Best of luck, you'll really appreciate the mod when your your done. If you guys have any questions let me know, just make sure you get a couple different sizes of long clear hose to run from the bleader too a container. It's nice too do because it prevents brake fluid from damaging your paint or creating smoke or fumes and it allows you too view your fluid removed as well as if you are still purging air. Just remember while bleeding its probably better too over do it if you are unsure if your pedal is soggy like I felt while my buddy cursed its late than having too reinstall the tmic only to have to remove and reinstall once more because you were in a hurry.

I would see where you feel
This is similar to his situation, but you are forgetting he just installed a new clutch and pressure plate, before this he had no issues to my
Understanding...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I would see where you feel
This is similar to his situation, but you are forgetting he just installed a new clutch and pressure plate, before this he had no issues to my
Understanding...
This is correct... Before my install I had no issues whatsoever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
If you reference my second post you'll see I posted a solution for his symptoms if this problem was apparent prior to any breaks in the clutch hydraulic circuit. I understand my response was long and you may have not been interested enough to see where I mentioned a second possibility if the problem was apparent prior to hydraulic service, seems he needs to follow that since such is the case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Did you replace the pilot bearing on the flywheel .
If bad or not replaced or place on incorrectly will cause those issues your having .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Not wanting to hijack this post but I am having a similar problem. My clutch was fine and then I had my engine replaced due to a spun rod bearing. The guy who did the work is no longer available to go back to for warranty work, so I am left on my own to repair it. So far I have bled the system both the slave and master cylinders for potential air in the lines. Made no difference. When I push in the pedal I have about 2 inches of play before it actuates. Any ideas help or suggestions? Thanks up front!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top