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Hi all,

Last weekend I went and checked out a used 2010 STi for sale here in Atlantic Canada, 80,000 KM (~50,000 mi). It was running a COBB stage 2 with full turbo back exhaust, no cat I don't think cause the exhaust stunk. There was an aftermarket air fuel ratio reading nearly perfect at 14.7 while idling so I didn't think the smell could be running rich? That's not really what I wanted to ask about though.

I wanted to go and see the car before I booked an appointment with the mechanic. The car drove really well but there were a couple things I noticed. I wanted to see if other similar problems had been experienced - I have done some research so I think I know the cause of one issue.

1) Clutch pedal does not come all the way back up all the time. Sometimes it goes 3/4 of the way and stops, other times it goes 3/4 of the way and the spring pops it up, making a thud. The clutch seemed to engage fine and no slip. Owner said he put a new master cylinder into it not too long ago. Is this issue as simple as bleeding the clutch lines?

2) Metallic rattling/whirring sound coming from beneath the center console area at low RPM in 2nd gear (mainly, that is when it is the loudest). It is only when I am accelerating (moderately, I havent really pushed the car to the max as I was only test driving... but holy...) and it lasts about a second. I read that this could simply be a loose piece of the exhaust heat shield but could it be something more sinister?

Thanks for your inputs.
 

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Last weekend I went and checked out a used 2010 STi for sale here in Atlantic Canada, 80,000 KM (~50,000 mi). It was running a COBB stage 2 with full turbo back exhaust, no cat I don't think cause the exhaust stunk. There was an aftermarket air fuel ratio reading nearly perfect at 14.7 while idling so I didn't think the smell could be running rich? That's not really what I wanted to ask about though.
Smell from catless
Cobb OTS is not for catless! Was it tuned. Regardless - Compression and leakdown and oil consumption will tell you/ If you end up w it tune or replace DP.


1) Clutch pedal does not come all the way back up all the time. Sometimes it goes 3/4 of the way and stops, other times it goes 3/4 of the way and the spring pops it up, making a thud. The clutch seemed to engage fine and no slip. Owner said he put a new master cylinder into it not too long ago. Is this issue as simple as bleeding the clutch lines?
Concerned it is a clutch/firewall issue. Need to know about this. I think its in the year range?


2) Metallic rattling/whirring sound coming from beneath the center console area at low RPM in 2nd gear (mainly, that is when it is the loudest). It is only when I am accelerating (moderately, I havent really pushed the car to the max as I was only test driving... but holy...) and it lasts about a second. I read that this could simply be a loose piece of the exhaust heat shield but could it be something more sinister?[/QUOTE]

Could be drive shaft or trans too. Another need to know before you buy.
 

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Smell from catless
Cobb OTS is not f
PHP:
or catless! Was it tuned. Regardless - Compression and leakdown and oil consumption will tell you/ If you end up w it tune or replace DP.

Concerned it is a clutch/firewall issue. Need to know about this. I think its in the year range?


2) Metallic rattling/whirring sound coming from beneath the center console area at low RPM in 2nd gear (mainly, that is when it is the loudest). It is only when I am accelerating (moderately, I havent really pushed the car to the max as I was only test driving... but holy...) and it lasts about a second. I read that this could simply be a loose piece of the exhaust heat shield but could it be something more sinister?

I've had a sound like that caused by the downpipe hanger bolt slipping and the catback rattling against the body at certain rpms. Sounded pretty much just like what you're describing.

I'd get it throughly checked out by a good shop that knows these cars.
 
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