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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where I can buy a relay for domelight supervision? I wonder if Bestbuy or Circuit City carries it. Your help is appreciated, thanks.
 

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for the subaru you don't need a relay for the domelight supervision feature. Pin A5 Black off the Integrated Module sends a ground signal to activate the Domelight. You can tap your Domelight Supervision wire to this wire.

Also, you don't need a relay to connect the clutch wires. Tap the alarm/remote start's status ground output wire to Pin 2 Yellow/Green wire and it will unlock the Starter Interlock.

netZ

NDMac said:
Does anyone know where I can buy a relay for domelight supervision? I wonder if Bestbuy or Circuit City carries it. Your help is appreciated, thanks.
 

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Man...netZ, I don't know what we'd do without you man! Glad to see you over here.

I should have my alarm here shortly and I'm sure I'll have a ? or two. Thanks for all your assistance!
 

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NetZ, I'm glad to see you here too. I saw your long thread at NASIOC about all the wiring information for car alarm. Thanks again. and thanks to CloNeGTS for letting me know about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
btw, I'm installing my alpine alarm this sunday, will let u guys know how it goes later.
 

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Hey netz.....one for ya.

In your 04 STi wiring, you listed a reverse light wire....first why and where is B99? Can't find it listed in the STi wiring manual.
 

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Alrighty, few other concerns.

I have all of the following to wire up....prox sensor, glass breakage, and the dual stage (which is the Clifford 504C substituted for the 504D). How do I want to wire all of those up properly?

And the trunk pop, I'm assuming the (-) output will need to throw a relay in order to power that solenoid? The 'switch' is on the (+) side of the solenoid, so I need to provide power, correct?

I'm rolling my eyes at myself typing this because it seems so simple, but just checking!
 

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i believe B99 can be found on the passenger center pillar. you will need to remove the panel to gain access to B99. also, you can get the reverse at the Mirror as well, Pin 1 Brown/Yellow as well.

i list the reverse light b/c the clifford solaris/g4/g5 remote start systems can use this as an additional check for remote start.

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
Hey netz.....one for ya.

In your 04 STi wiring, you listed a reverse light wire....first why and where is B99? Can't find it listed in the STi wiring manual.
 

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1) Prox Sensor's needs the 'ground out while armed' wire. This wire will send a ground signal after 30 seconds. This allows the person to exit the vehicle w/o tripping the Prox Sensor.

2) Glass Breakage and the Dual Stage can be wired together.

3) The trunk pop needs a relay to convert the Aux Ground Output to Positive to power the solenoid:

ie. Aux Output to Pin 85, fused 15 amp 12 volt to Pin 86 & Pin 87, Pin 30 to Positive terminal of Solenoid

good luck!

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
Alrighty, few other concerns.

I have all of the following to wire up....prox sensor, glass breakage, and the dual stage (which is the Clifford 504C substituted for the 504D). How do I want to wire all of those up properly?

And the trunk pop, I'm assuming the (-) output will need to throw a relay in order to power that solenoid? The 'switch' is on the (+) side of the solenoid, so I need to provide power, correct?

I'm rolling my eyes at myself typing this because it seems so simple, but just checking!
 

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Thanks so much man!

Hey..your opinion on a few things....tapping. For most, I assume you'd use the 3M t-taps. The starter wire gets cut completely....but how do you go about tapping the big ACC, 12+, and Ignition wires without cutting them?

Thanks again man! I'll repay the favor by answering most of these questions for you next time! Teach the children!
 

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you can buy a Turbo Timer Harness Blitz/Greddy whatever and do your crimping and cutting there. i don't like to use 3m T Taps b/c they may sever your wire. i typically use wire strippers to remove a portion of the wire insulation and seperate the wire strands and insert the wire to tap and tightly wind it around the wire itself and then use 3m electrical tape and tightly wrap the connection and then to another wire to prevent it from disconnecting itself. everyone touts the use of solder but i've been doing this and it looks totally stealth. for the starter wire i use high quality 3m nylon button connectors. no problems for me!

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
Thanks so much man!

Hey..your opinion on a few things....tapping. For most, I assume you'd use the 3M t-taps. The starter wire gets cut completely....but how do you go about tapping the big ACC, 12+, and Ignition wires without cutting them?

Thanks again man! I'll repay the favor by answering most of these questions for you next time! Teach the children!
 

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nylon button connectors? I don't know if I've seen those before.

Thanks for the advice on the t-taps...I'll steer clear.

Hey, since you seem to have some nice methods for things, how do you go about 'probing' wires to check them? I know how to use a MM, but I'm just not real sure how to check the signals in many of these wires, short of actually peeling away insulation and touching the strands. Any advice there?
 

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3m makes 2 kinds vinyl which are solid colors and nylon are the translucent ones. I prefer the nylon butt connectors since they are seamless and have a low profile. Home Depot/Lowes doesn't carry the translucent butt connectors.

Since I have the shop manuals I knew which wires were needed. Once the wires have been located I would strip the insulation and tested it for polarity and function.

If you are trying to detect the RPM wire off the Ignition coils, you have to set your Multimeter to AC (RPM WIRE IS A WAVEFORM), ground the black lead and use the red to probe the suspected Ignition wire. Rev the engine and your meter should increase voltage in proportion to the engine speed.

For all other wires set your Multimeter to DC, ground the black lead and use the red lead on the suspected wire if your meter reads +12v then you found your positive wire otherwise it's negative or no current. Or attach the red lead to 12v Positive and use the black lead to probe the wire, if the Multimeter says 12 volts then the wire is Negative otherwise it's Positive or no current. Kind of confusing, once you get the hang of it, it will make perfect sense!

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
nylon button connectors? I don't know if I've seen those before.

Thanks for the advice on the t-taps...I'll steer clear.

Hey, since you seem to have some nice methods for things, how do you go about 'probing' wires to check them? I know how to use a MM, but I'm just not real sure how to check the signals in many of these wires, short of actually peeling away insulation and touching the strands. Any advice there?
 

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The alarm is fully installed. Didn't try to get all the remote start in and working just yet. I cut-n-sliced the prox sensor in with the glass breakage sensor. They both function and all seems well.....except that every time I disable the alarm, it gives me the 4-chirp disarm with sensors 1 and 2 as the causes of the alarm. I did test and adjust the sensitivity of all the sensors and the final test to set the alarm off was the prox. I've had a Viper before and it always tell you what set it off when you return with the 4-chirp and the LED flash, but then it clears. This is not clearing. Just for reference, here's how the prox sensor was installed.

both warn wires - hooked together and spliced into the warn wire from the glass breakage

ground - spliced into orange "ground while armed" wire off main harness, using instructed diode install

power - spliced into power for glass breakage.

And maybe this means something....all three of the sensors go to the same plug....is that right? The dual stage is sensor one and the glass breakage/prox are sensor two. The glass breakage came with a wiring layout to use with the dual stage. And then I just spliced into that extra connection there.

Thanks man.....I swear I'm almost done and then your duties here are done!
 

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the 790xv has multiplex inputs. it can detect what type of trigger based on duration of the sensor's output. less .8th of a second is considered a warn response otherwise it will be considered a full siren response.

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
The alarm is fully installed. Didn't try to get all the remote start in and working just yet. I cut-n-sliced the prox sensor in with the glass breakage sensor. They both function and all seems well.....except that every time I disable the alarm, it gives me the 4-chirp disarm with sensors 1 and 2 as the causes of the alarm. I did test and adjust the sensitivity of all the sensors and the final test to set the alarm off was the prox. I've had a Viper before and it always tell you what set it off when you return with the 4-chirp and the LED flash, but then it clears. This is not clearing. Just for reference, here's how the prox sensor was installed.

both warn wires - hooked together and spliced into the warn wire from the glass breakage

ground - spliced into orange "ground while armed" wire off main harness, using instructed diode install

power - spliced into power for glass breakage.

And maybe this means something....all three of the sensors go to the same plug....is that right? The dual stage is sensor one and the glass breakage/prox are sensor two. The glass breakage came with a wiring layout to use with the dual stage. And then I just spliced into that extra connection there.

Thanks man.....I swear I'm almost done and then your duties here are done!
 

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to clear a triggered response you will need to turn your key to ignition on and off. try arming and disarming your alarm, the triggered response chirps should have been cleared.

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
Yeah....got all that. Any reason for the alarm that isn't clearing?
 

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Yup, understand that too. For some reason, it doesn't clear for either.

I haven't gotten the starter kill or remote start in while waiting for my TT harness....would that affect it? The alarm should still clear when disarmed I'd think.

I might try disconnecting the prox sensor. Everything worked fine before I spliced that in. (glass sensor and dual stage full alarms cleared with disarm).
 

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yep, you need to have the ignition sensing wire connected in order for the alarm to clear the triggered responses.

netZ

CloNeGTS said:
Yup, understand that too. For some reason, it doesn't clear for either.

I haven't gotten the starter kill or remote start in while waiting for my TT harness....would that affect it? The alarm should still clear when disarmed I'd think.

I might try disconnecting the prox sensor. Everything worked fine before I spliced that in. (glass sensor and dual stage full alarms cleared with disarm).
 
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