IW STi Forum banner
81 - 99 of 99 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Tru, tru ... unless you have an issue with the throttle body to intake itself ....

Having said that, are all conversions to speed density using the stock sensor? Most I've seen a year or more ago were not ... especially ecutek conversions to it.

The stock MAP sensor is in a perfectly fine place measure pressure after the throttle body (even though it is mounted to the TB. You can take off your entire charge pipe before the TB and it'll run just fine.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,772 Posts
If you get a leak at the throttle body to intake at all, the MAP will pick it up because the entire intake manifold is experiencing the lack of vacuum and/or pressure. In other words, it will accurately experience what the motor is experiencing. You can stop now...

The MAP sensor you use, OEM or bigger, greatly depends on how much boost you want to run.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
:bow:

If you get a leak at the throttle body to intake at all, the MAP will pick it up because the entire intake manifold is experiencing the lack of vacuum and/or pressure. In other words, it will accurately experience what the motor is experiencing. You can stop now...

The MAP sensor you use, OEM or bigger, greatly depends on how much boost you want to run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,256 Posts
Tru, tru ... unless you have an issue with the throttle body to intake itself ....

Having said that, are all conversions to speed density using the stock sensor? Most I've seen a year or more ago were not ... especially ecutek conversions to it.
They use the stock (or aftermarket in stock location) MAP sensor, but an aftermarket IAT sensor, usually in the charge piping about 6 inches before the throttle body. That is probably the sensor you are thinking of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
How much horsepower is max for a daily driver?
bumping an ancient thread here lol.

in reality that depends on your willingness to daily drive something that is not gonna be "comfortable" and your budget. you could daily drive something that is 1k+whp but between maintenance and parts, it'll be very expensive to do so. plus at that level it wont be comfortable to cruise in. it'll be loud. but if you wanted to and had the budget to drive it there's really no limit on how much power
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
bumping an ancient thread here lol.

in reality that depends on your willingness to daily drive something that is not gonna be "comfortable" and your budget. you could daily drive something that is 1k+whp but between maintenance and parts, it'll be very expensive to do so. plus at that level it wont be comfortable to cruise in. it'll be loud. but if you wanted to and had the budget to drive it there's really no limit on how much power
I mean at what level horsepower does it become unreliable for daily commute
 

·
Registered
2020 Subaru WRX STI
Joined
·
92 Posts
Depends what you determine as "unreliable". I would say that most people would think around 350whp is the limit on an STI for reliable daily driving. Maybe 400whp with e85.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
Up to 100 miles a day
keep in mind, on top of what magnetite said, driving 100 miles a day will also require very frequent maintenance which will bring the price up. you can do it, and make it plenty reliable. but it wont be cheap.

there's not really a limit on how much power would be "reliable". you could daily drive something with 350 and it'll be too much for you, or you could daily something that makes over 1kwhp and be plenty happy. what it really will come down to is budget. how much do you want to spend for the car+parts+maintenance to keep it reliable, the higher power level it is, expect more maintenance to be needed.

personally, i daily drove mine for a tad over a year when it was built and making 377whp/401wtq. the car itself was reliable (still is), but maintenance was expensive. eventually, i got a civic to daily and have the sti as a weekend toy/track car. i tend to change the oil every 2k-2500 miles tops just to be on the incredibly safe side, i do spark plugs every year, trans/diff fluid every year. and go over the car top to bottom pretty much every track day. all that adds up when it's a weekend car, as a daily driver that adds up super fast. especially when my civic+maintenance+all repairs in 2.8 years has cost me like 3200 bucks (price of the car included in that).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
Yes I do. But before I build I want to make sure it’s reliable and with last
that all starts with the maintenance. you can make it reliable. it's just gonna cost money. what are your power goals for the car? and what is your budget
 

·
Premium Member
See about
Joined
·
6,131 Posts
Last is another relative term. 2618 pistons don't last all that long. At 100mi/day, like me, you can wear out a race clutch and engine in 2.5yrs. So my 05 is due for a rebuild which will cost $5K for just the big parts and $3K in labor if I don't do it myself. I probably will.

Mine was under 400hp. These days with at -400 on pump and +400 on E people are mostly keeping their stock SB - which won't have the short life issue. IMO if you want a sold 500 your well into fully built . . . I am personally considering a Rallispec street block this round

Except for two defective clutches in a row the car was completely reliable. I never broke down till well past 250K on it when the harmonic balancer. Actually it gave me plenty of warnings that I did not properly interpret until it completely failed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
that all starts with the maintenance. you can make it reliable. it's just gonna cost money. what are your power goals for the car? and what is your budget
I would love a reliable 500ish forester. My budget is around $25k not including the car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
I would love a reliable 500ish forester. My budget is around $25k not including the car
so you'll need an STI drivetrain swap, which will eat up 6k of your budget at a minimum, probably more with everything needed but you may be able to find it used in good working condition for 6k ish. built motor (personally i prefer IAG motors, but there are other good options on the market), expect a motor alone to run in the 10-15k range. then you'll need a turbo. you can do stock location to save money, but rotated would be better simply from getting rid of the oem style exhaust housing, which will get you better spool and power, rotated would run you in the 5-7k range, stock location would be in the 2k range. then you'd want to get a fuel system and flex fuel (or just e85), which will cost another 3k-3500 or so. plus however much supporting mods would be (intake/intercooler/tgv deletes/clutch/the list goes on). and dont forget any gaskets or cooling mods. my guess is you'd be coming very very close to that 25k budget, if not going a few thousand over it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
so you'll need an STI drivetrain swap, which will eat up 6k of your budget at a minimum, probably more with everything needed but you may be able to find it used in good working condition for 6k ish. built motor (personally i prefer IAG motors, but there are other good options on the market), expect a motor alone to run in the 10-15k range. then you'll need a turbo. you can do stock location to save money, but rotated would be better simply from getting rid of the oem style exhaust housing, which will get you better spool and power, rotated would run you in the 5-7k range, stock location would be in the 2k range. then you'd want to get a fuel system and flex fuel (or just e85), which will cost another 3k-3500 or so. plus however much supporting mods would be (intake/intercooler/tgv deletes/clutch/the list goes on). and dont forget any gaskets or cooling mods. my guess is you'd be coming very very close to that 25k budget, if not going a few thousand over it.
Sounds like a great plan. By the time I get all of that installed I’ll have more money for anything I need. I’m excited. I’ve been wanting to do this build for 20 years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Built motor with all the fixings, external wastegate, good tune, and a 150 shot would get you there and let you do extended pulls at 350 ish wheel hp, hit the button and there’s your 500. I have done it and the motor is still going strong, actually in another car, then again it was spec’d for nitrous and high boost using the best parts.
 
81 - 99 of 99 Posts
Top