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For me maintaining the car at my power level really hasn't been all that more expensive compared with OEM. I use the same relatively cheap Subaru branded tranny fluid, brake fluid, coolant, diff fluid for 30k/60k/90k maintenance. Project Mu B Force brake pads that everyone uses. Rotella T6 with Purolator filters (what IAG puts on all Subarus). Same spark plugs. Same power steering fluid. As far as maintenance items, there is no expensive brand name item that all Subarus over 500hp are using. Also I don't find I am burning through these things any quicker at my power level.

If it is built right the first time and you monitor and adhere to a strict maintenance schedule, catastrophic failures won't creep up on you.

If you get a GTR then the maintenance items will have the exotic/super car mark up.
 

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my car never made 500whp, but it does have a built motor with a bump in power, and i was read the riot act, about maintenance, and lag etc. in fact a stock 350z once put two cars on me because of lag (bring on the hate!). but it makes me happy, and that is all i care about. though i disagree with the "maintenance is going to be killer" since i put a fp green on my car with my built block, the only thing I've needed to replace was a hub bearing, trans fluid, and a 02 sensor. i did go to iag which i feel played a role in success and its been about two years on this motor. my advice too you, is too do it right, take the time, and pony up the cash. also pay attention to people who have been successful with their built blocks. this is my first built motor, and I've learned some things about them in these past two years that i wish i knew before hand.
 

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I agree that general maintenance isn't really more expensive, if you're only daily driving ... but you do need to check your oil often, warm-up the car and warm-down ... otherwise, no reason why it won't last a while, but parts just wear out faster at that power level ... and so does risk of breaking more expensive parts (after all, who installs a giant turbo then tunes is to be conservative?). I drove my beast to work today (car sat a week) ... cruising mostly on the highway, but I opened her up a few times -- if I get caught doing that, I will be thrown in jail for how fast I go ... it's worth it until I get caught ;-)

But in order to drive it ... I must perform:

* Oil Check
* Catch Can check
* Ground for oil leaks check
* Check fuel hoses for leaks
* Connect notebook to log driving
* Open all windows because car smells like fuel (don't use nomex lines if you want to daily drive)
* Idle car for 5 minutes before driving ...
* Idle car for as long as it takes to get oil temps back down to 180F ...

That alone takes me an extra 20-25 mins a day ... lol!
 
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I agree that general maintenance isn't really more expensive, if you're only daily driving ... but you do need to check your oil often, warm-up the car and warm-down ... otherwise, no reason why it won't last a while, but parts just wear out faster at that power level ... and so does risk of breaking more expensive parts (after all, who installs a giant turbo then tunes is to be conservative?). I drove my beast to work today (car sat a week) ... cruising mostly on the highway, but I opened her up a few times -- if I get caught doing that, I will be thrown in jail for how fast I go ... it's worth it until I get caught ;-)

But in order to drive it ... I must perform:

* Oil Check
* Catch Can check
* Ground for oil leaks check
* Check fuel hoses for leaks
* Connect notebook to log driving
* Open all windows because car smells like fuel (don't use nomex lines if you want to daily drive)
* Idle car for 5 minutes before driving ...
* Idle car for as long as it takes to get oil temps back down to 180F ...

That alone takes me an extra 20-25 mins a day ... lol!
Man that is a ritual :lol:
Oil Check - I check every time I fill up gas, otherwise it is monitored by oil pressure gauge
Catch can check - I got the IAG AOS :devil:
Ground for oil leaks check - I don't do that but oil pressure gauge could pick up significant leaks.
Check fuel hoses for leaks - I check every time I fill up gas but not on the regular
Connect notebook to log driving - Cobb AP does that for me automatically :D
Fuel smell - Either I don't have it or I'm just sensitized to it :lol: I'm still on stock lines.
Idle car 5min - I idle until the coolant temp gauge starts to move so 1-1.5 minutes. Then I take it very easy on the car (nothing over 3k rpms) until oil gets fully warmed up.
Idle car on shut off - I don't do that

I just take the measures I detailed in my PSA thread and I haven't had any problems daily driving this car for 30,000 miles on the built motor at >500whp. Previously it spent 45,000 miles on the stock motor at >400whp :tup: Initially I thought having a forged motor would mean prolonged idle times that would hamper convenience but it isn't bad at all :tup:
 

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Man that is a ritual :lol: - -That's how you make it last :)

Oil Check - I check every time I fill up gas, otherwise it is monitored by oil pressure gauge - I have oil temp and pressure gauges and monitor them religiously -- nearly 100 psi on cold start, cruise at 82psi .... hot warm idle 35-40psi :)

Catch can check - I got the IAG AOS :devil:
-My awesome plastic milk bottles are checked everytime I park the car ;-)
For the Weedman ... - YouTube

Ground for oil leaks check - I don't do that but oil pressure gauge could pick up significant leaks.
- Yes, but somehow if all of your oil leaked out of your car before start, you would notice and wouldn't start the car -- it'd be too late once you looked at your gauge -- paranoid ;-)

Check fuel hoses for leaks - I check every time I fill up gas but not on the regular
- My system is a bit over kill :p
Big power STi - Fuel System - YouTube


Connect notebook to log driving - Cobb AP does that for me automatically :D
-I have a real ECU :)

Fuel smell - Either I don't have it or I'm just sensitized to it :lol: I'm still on stock lines.
- Stock lines are too small for my needs -- I have -10an nomex lines ;-)

Idle car 5min - I idle until the coolant temp gauge starts to move so 1-1.5 minutes. Then I take it very easy on the car (nothing over 3k rpms) until oil gets fully warmed up.
Idle car on shut off - I don't do that
- You should let it cool off before you turn it off -- bad for your turbo otherwise ...

I just take the measures I detailed in my PSA thread and I haven't had any problems daily driving this car for 30,000 miles on the built motor at >500whp. Previously it spent 45,000 miles on the stock motor at >400whp :tup: Initially I thought having a forged motor would mean prolonged idle times that would hamper convenience but it isn't bad at all :tup:
- Looks like you're doing ok, keep doing what you're doing ....
 
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I think even Garretts are coolant cooled so no need for a turbo timer for me. My GT35R was in pristine condition upon selling it after 55,000 miles and I think it is still chugging ;)

I'm definitely sticking with the stock ECU due to the immobilizer function and OBD2 emissions testing. With Cobb speed density people have been making 700whp+ on stock ECU :D
 

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If you have a coolant connection, then I guess you'll be ok ;-) Most turbos on Subis are only oil cooled, and if you have a hot turbo and then turn off the car, oil is not circulated to cool the turbo's shaft and it could in theory warp -- also, those of us using journal bearing turbos of course rely more on oil than the ball-bearing boys ...

As for the ECU, Cobb has never been an option here in Europe ... so enjoy more choice ;-) Stock ECU is good if you have the right tools and a knowledgable tuner working with it ....:tup:

I think even Garretts are coolant cooled so no need for a turbo timer for me. My GT35R was in pristine condition upon selling it after 55,000 miles and I think it is still chugging ;)

I'm definitely sticking with the stock ECU due to the immobilizer function and OBD2 emissions testing. With Cobb speed density people have been making 700whp+ on stock ECU :D
 

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This thread takes me back to when I was 17 with stars in my eyes...

The first three builds I did failed to have adequate vision. So I ended up going a bit too extreme for a daily driver in terms of engine build/tune, suspension ride height/stiffness, noise level, etc. But I did have a hell of a lot of fun, learned some stuff the hard way and blew through radar traps at 165mph. I once passed a city cop car while airborne.

Ahh, the innocence and joy of youth!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Re: Re: Can a 500+ HP Built Subaru be a Daily?

This thread takes me back to when I was 17 with stars in my eyes...

The first three builds I did failed to have adequate vision. So I ended up going a bit too extreme for a daily driver in terms of engine build/tune, suspension ride height/stiffness, noise level, etc. But I did have a hell of a lot of fun, learned some stuff the hard way and blew through radar traps at 165mph. I once passed a city cop car while airborne.

Ahh, the innocence and joy of youth!
Ahhh someone who had the same dream as me. I hope to have just as good of a experience as you did :):D
 

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Those of us who use journal bearing turbos generally don't need water ... a high-pressure, unrestricted oil line with good oil does the job.

I've never seen a turbo Subaru of recent times that wasn't water cooled.

You cool the oil so it doesn't coke.
 

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Stock turbos are journal bearings, as well as my 20G and both water cooled. The water cooling isn't related to what type of bearing you have. It cools the turbo and keeps the oil from coking.
 

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Maybe, but my Element Tuning GT75 is only oil cooled ;-)
 

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Speed density is for kids - MAP or go home :p

And what's the point of 500+ horse power if you can't gun it at every stop light! :rofl:

Joking of course ...

yes it can. Make sure it is speed density and it will drive great. and don't gun it every stop light and it will last longer
 

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pssst...speed density and manifold absolute pressure tuning are virtually the same.
 

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I got *pawned.*

What i meant is that most conversions using stock/cobb ECUs have their sensors pre-throttle body (post-BPV/BOV), and not in the intake itself ... I don't like that because if you have a leak somewhere before the TB, you can have issues ...

I got *double-pawned* ... :rofl:

pssst...speed density and manifold absolute pressure tuning are virtually the same.
 

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The stock MAP sensor is in a perfectly fine place measure pressure after the throttle body (even though it is mounted to the TB. You can take off your entire charge pipe before the TB and it'll run just fine.
 
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