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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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Hey guys any help or suggestions would be appreciated and this is going to be a long winded post so bare with me. Last July I got rear ended and my car was totaled out. Rather than walk away I decided to purchase my buddies 2011 Sti and swap as much as I could from my 2013 Sti. After discovering a rust spot I decided to swap doors, which led me to swap the ecm, biu(immobilizer) and ignition switch. After swapping about 90% of the car over to the 2011 this past Saturday I was finally ready to start her up for the first time. Put the key in the ignition and got absolutely no feedback. Then noticed I wasn’t even getting a security light. The only functioning electronic on the car was the horn. So I started to run through all of the things it could possibly be, I did touch every part, nut and bolt on the car so I was expecting something just not this lol.

I started with the grounds, two ground straps on the bottom of the engine, two off of the headlight harness, transmission ground, vdc ground and alternator ground. All of them were good and if anything I just made them better by taking the dremel to any corrosion I saw. The grounds were all tested for resistance as well and they were all perfect. I relocated my battery to the truck so I tried grounding the negative terminal directly to the engine instead of the body in the rear with some heavy guage amp wire, still did nothing. Tested the battery, main fuse, and the door fuse inside of the car. I was getting 12.7volts across the board and continuity in all of the fuses inside and out were good. But still nothing more than the horn working. Swapped the battery out for a new one and still got nothing. I’m thinking there is either a security immobilizer I missed which is why I’m getting nothing or I’m just totally f-Ed and have to burn the garage down. :ROFLMAO::mad: Going to swap the 2011 ecm,biu and ignition switch back in tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. If it does nothing I’m just going to start going through each system one by one to find the problem. If been working on this car for the last 6 months doing 95% of the work myself so PLEASE Any help at all is appreciated!!

Quick summary of what was swapped over from the old 2013 that got totaled to the 2011 I’ve been building.

  • front and rear subframes and all suspension components
  • Doors and complete interior
  • Gas tank(I didn’t want to open the tanks so I figured why not since I did everything else)
  • Complete abs system aside from rear brake lines
  • E brake cables
  • Complete driveline and engine harness
  • Fuel lines and surge tank
  • Exhaust system
  • Audio system
Parts added
-every bushing whiteline offers
-whiteline anti lift kit
-whiteline toe arms
-whiteline roll center adjustment kit
-whiteline rear lower control arms
-process west intake manifold
-alumanati expansion tank
-csf racing radiator
-19 row setrab oil cooler
-hks turbo timer(because I have an oil cooled 6062 precision)
-75mm boomba tb
-full custom ic piping and intercooler with vibrant hd clamps
-Dom cooling mod
-iag alternator relocation bracket
 

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Nice work. Sorry I can't offer more than that. I'd be doing exactly what you related - just going through one thing at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice work. Sorry I can't offer more than that. I'd be doing exactly what you related - just going through one thing at a time.
No worries man and thank you. I tried swapping the ecm,biu, and iginition switch from the 2011 back. Still was getting only power to the horn but I might have found the issue. Tomorrow I’ll know for sure
 
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