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It should be great for the street. There is talk that it is basically 300v but with a detergent pack and additives. The 300v shouldn't be used long term in a street car unless you actually require it. 300v does a great job dealing with fuel dilution, so e85/water-meth/massive injectors-rich pump gas idle/cruise type cars, or just if you are really pushing a lot of power and abusing is daily.
I would say go for it and pop in the 300v for track days

The detergents would be nice to keep everything clean although I change the oil often. We disabled closed loop fueling to rectify some driveability issues in closed loop due to the front o2 being moved post-turbine with my twinscroll setup. the tune itself is not excessively rich, but it's slightly rich a lot more often. E85 was also in the plan since I've started running 300V but I didn't get the car dialed in on 93 until last summer and just never got to E85 tuning. That's my plan for this year though :D
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The detergents would be nice to keep everything clean although I change the oil often. We disabled closed loop fueling to rectify some driveability issues in closed loop due to the front o2 being moved post-turbine with my twinscroll setup. the tune itself is not excessively rich, but it's slightly rich a lot more often. E85 was also in the plan since I've started running 300V but I didn't get the car dialed in on 93 until last summer and just never got to E85 tuning. That's my plan for this year though :D
I would suggest just put the o2 back in the header where it belongs. run your wideband gauge in the DP. Too much hassle doing it otherwise if you have to chase closed loop problems.

most of my friends run 300v (700-1700whp range) and its always been great. Even on very high powered subarus at extremely high revs have found it to be great too so you can't go wrong with it :tup: Seeing what e85 can do (we don't have it at the pump here so have to buy barrels) you'll have fun for sure.
 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

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Garrett GTX2867r with TiAl V-band housing, and TiAl MVS 38mm wastegate. The KillerB uppipe was modified for both the V-band housing and the EWG. The wastegate dump was recirculated at a very low angle merge at the bottom of the downpipe. A number of gussets and brackets were installed as well.

Interested in doing a similar setup to this, but with a rotated uppipe and a custom downpipe. Did they just cut off the 3 bolt subaru flange and add the short extension and transition for the vband flange on the uppipe? Boost response and drive-ability look crazy!
 

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I would suggest just put the o2 back in the header where it belongs. run your wideband gauge in the DP. Too much hassle doing it otherwise if you have to chase closed loop problems.

most of my friends run 300v (700-1700whp range) and its always been great. Even on very high powered subarus at extremely high revs have found it to be great too so you can't go wrong with it :tup: Seeing what e85 can do (we don't have it at the pump here so have to buy barrels) you'll have fun for sure.
I'm rotated/twinscroll, the front o2 has to be post-turbine to sample all cylinders (similar to JDM OE TS setups). The closed loop issue was just a hiccup under light throttle, only noticeable while driving around town. I have maps with closed loop enabled in case I wanted to save some fuel on a long drive but I haven't noticed a significant enough drop to both switching maps. All in the throttle control :D

Do you drive your car in the winter? I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on cold startup with with 5w-40 if so.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Interested in doing a similar setup to this, but with a rotated uppipe and a custom downpipe. Did they just cut off the 3 bolt subaru flange and add the short extension and transition for the vband flange on the uppipe? Boost response and drive-ability look crazy!
That's correct. We cut to the top off the uppipe for the vband flange after deciding on location and angle, then built the downpipe, then cut the uppipe for the EWG and the downpipe for the recirc.

You're right, its a blast to drive!

I'm rotated/twinscroll, the front o2 has to be post-turbine to sample all cylinders (similar to JDM OE TS setups). The closed loop issue was just a hiccup under light throttle, only noticeable while driving around town. I have maps with closed loop enabled in case I wanted to save some fuel on a long drive but I haven't noticed a significant enough drop to both switching maps. All in the throttle control :D

Do you drive your car in the winter? I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on cold startup with with 5w-40 if so.
I don't think the ecu has any logic about volume for the o2. It wouldn't matter if you are only sampling 2 cylinders as long as you have a wideband in the downpipe to monitor yourself. but if you're able to drive around it I guess its fine.

I have another car for a daily driver/winter car, but I do drive it during the winter (driving it daily right now as my other car is getting some mods done :) ). Typically I wouldn't be driving it much under 15F or so, but I also garage park as well as indoor parking at work. If I parked outside it would be on a block heater no matter what anyways. 5w40 is no problem for really cold. If it was consistently under 15F I would go back to german Castrol 0w30 but ive seen cars running 15w50 start up without issue in 10F temps after sitting all day... any good synthetic will start up and have a good film so I wouldn't worry about wear. It's more about the length of time it takes to warm up and drive, during that time you're running pretty rich so more fuel dilution, so that would be my main reason to go "thinner" if I was in a cold climate.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I've had a bunch of body parts for years now that I haven't installed yet. This summer I will be changing up the look a little bit, starting with some WRX side skirts. I don't really like the STI ones and as I am also changing the front lip I think these will tie it together a little better.








Next up is a Greddy Lip and some Morimoto LED foglights, have to make some custom fit for these.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Purchased December 2013...., painted 2016, installed May 2017... :rofl:

So it took a while, but well worth the wait. I had to do the wrx sides to match as I don't think the sti skirts look right with this lip.

Also dropped in a pair of Hella Sharptones recently to better blast the horrible drivers and head-down clueless texting pedestrians







 

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Looking badass! Super clean lines!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Very clean, the lip and skirts work perfectly together. Always did like the Greddy lip and well.. I swapped to Wrx skirts too.
Thanks, yeah there aren't enough pics floating around so I was always worried if it would look as good as I thought... i'm very happy how it all turned out

Looking badass! Super clean lines!
thanks, My thoughts exactly :D
 

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Throwing back a few years here... if I understand right, you did not need to do any fender modification to fit the NT03s?

That's pretty awesome if so -- I'm also a fan of the wide 17s!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Throwing back a few years here... if I understand right, you did not need to do any fender modification to fit the NT03s?

That's pretty awesome if so -- I'm also a fan of the wide 17s!
That's correct. The front fenders have been rolled but I don't think it was actually needed tbh, just wanted to be safe.

It's much easier and cheaper to just pull the rears I think (and I might end up doing it in the future) but yes, with the combo of camber plates, rear strut slots, and whiteline adjustable lateral links I was able to fit the tire/wheel combo between the strut, fender, and trailing arm with a mm or two there and there to spare.

I've run these with 255/40/17 direzza2 and 255/40/17 r888 and no issues with rubbing. I have driven on rough roads, big compression dips in a straight line, hard slow cornering, fast 120mph+ cornering, and no issues. the balance is more neutral with a slightly larger ratio of front to rear track width (i'm sure the suspension/alignment "nerds" will be able to tall me how bad or good this is but it feels great on the street), so on winter tires for instance on ramps the car will tend to rotate really well off throttle and neutral to mild throttle at the limits of tire grip (suspension is too stiff for winter tires...) and on the r-comps the car will tuck in and rotate under full throttle on ramps as an example (that has a lot to do with my powerband as well though).
 

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Thanks for the detailed info!
It's interesting coming from having a GR with tons of room under the fenders to a GD. I know there's more room than I think there is, but there's more learning to be done for sure.
 

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That lip is.....interesting...never actually seen it before....huh, TIL.

But yeah, it looks WAY better line-wise with the WRX skirts than the STi ones. +1 for style pickyness like me....so many people overlook things like this and just throw things on a car that clash with each other visually....
 

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Discussion Starter #55
That lip is.....interesting...never actually seen it before....huh, TIL.

But yeah, it looks WAY better line-wise with the WRX skirts than the STi ones. +1 for style pickyness like me....so many people overlook things like this and just throw things on a car that clash with each other visually....
And now I had to learn what TIL means haha!

Yeah, this lip, I remembered it from like 8 years ago when a friend of mine had it but I never liked it too much with the sti side skirts being used. I forgot it existed until I bought some wrx sides a few years ago and found only 1 or 2 bad pics on the net ... still took me a couple of years to finally paint and install everything and I'm glad I did :)
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Just another small update. I had a set of universal Morimoto LED foglights waiting for install. As any other GD owner knows there aren't really any options other than the OEM setup for fogs but those just weren't going to cut it for me so these had to be custom mounted.

Using the OEM foglights, removing the lenses, projectors etc and just using the "cups" we were able to mount the foglights as the bolt patter matched up with the OEM projector pattern. Some studs, jb weld, and some nuts and screws later... success and a clean install that still allows for adjustment.

The unique challenge for GD fogs






Finished product









 

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Discussion Starter #57
High mileage update

245,000KM

Well, time flies when you're having fun.

Its been about 30,000km since the turbo upgrade and supporting mods. Because I only use this car as a toy now most mileage is for fun, meaning attack every ramp, lots of WOT through the gears, fast road driving etc... Still running strong.

Still stock motor, its never been out of the car. 365whp at 7000rpm used often. I love this thing. I've even had the pickup tube crack and lost oil pressure while driving back at around 85,000km and its still running perfectly. Don't skimp on the tune.

 

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Discussion Starter #59
Stock motor,365whp .. 245k km ... and here i am wondering if entry level forged rods,pistons would take +-350whp safely.

You sir prove these motors ain't so brittle after all. Simply astonishing.
Thanks,

I wouldn't say astonishing though. While I can't comment on the first tune being good for longevity (because I tuned it myself at stg2 :eek: )... I do know for certain that my goal for having a flat torque curve is definitely keeping it running well at this amount of mileage. My tuner/builder is well known for making high hp stock engine cars and has a number of stock engine records on various platforms so the expertise is there to maximize the benefits of an engine package and exploit them. You have to take into account that I am making less peak torque now than when I (or anyone for that matter) was at stg2 levels, so the stress is technically less. So I get the best of both worlds, quick, responsive spool as well as super wide powerband, and less stress overall. I'd still like to do a few more things to extend the usable revs closer to 8000 and over 400whp though.

Now, if I was making 350-400wtq peak and only revving to 6500rpm making similar WHP I would be slower as well as more damaging and would likely need a rebuild sooner than later.

At the end of the day, I will still likely build a motor, the only difference is that I will have to do it because this one will simply wear out (knock on wood) :lol:
 
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