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Discussion Starter #21
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

A few more pictures of the progress, the car is finished now, should be tuned this weekend.


In progress, getting the turbo, inlet, lines etc in their final position to start bolting everything back on. A real emphasis was placed on clean routing to keep clutter at a minimum and to ensure servicing would be as easy as possible down the road.



GrimmSpeed TMIC, with 125cc water/meth nozzle and IAT temp sensor added to the underside, both AEM.



KillerB HolyHeader mounted, such a nice piece! You can just see the new custom dowpipe and the EWG recirculation pipe in the background. DP is 3.5", minimal bends (you can actually see through it the bends are so small) thanks to the stock(ish) location of the turbo.




Garrett GTX2867r with TiAl V-band housing, and TiAl MVS 38mm wastegate. The KillerB uppipe was modified for both the V-band housing and the EWG. The wastegate dump was recirculated at a very low angle merge at the bottom of the downpipe. A number of gussets and brackets were installed as well.



Semi-Completed engine bay, just a few little touch-ups and parts to go back on. I am pleased that it is still stock appearing and doesn't have lines and hoses all over the place. I also like that I was able to keep the FHI strut tower bar with the big tmic just by spacing it up a bit, also having enough room for an aos on the firewall.



Sorry for the phone quality pics, better ones to follow. Number and driving impressions next week
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

About a month ago I had the car tuned (I posted in the power section but forgot to update this thread... http://www.iwsti.com/forums/power-bragging/274760-2006-sti-365whp-300wtq-gtx2867r.html )



I ended up with 365whp at 7000rpm and 300wtq, flat from 3800-6200rpm. The goal/hope was to keep 300wtq to 7000 but this wasn't possible with the setup unfortunately, we dropped about 20wtq from 6200-7000. This is perfectly acceptable as it is almost impossible to notice while driving.

















This being a dynapack it doesn't show "spool" like an inertia dyno (unless you run a ridiculous ramp time) so this actually is similar to a 1st gear roll from idle. On the street when actually moving I have full torque by 3000-3200rpm. This is all kind of meaningless though, because it is so responsive that at partial throttle I am still making boost and it is basically impossible to be under 3000rpm. In actual driving, the second I hit the throttle I have full boost and because torque is flat almost to redline, there is no let up in power until I shift.

Some comparisons to my previous stg2 setup? I have more power off boost (less restriction with a freer flowing turbo). I have a more linear increase of power from vacuum to full boost, meaning I am making more actual power increases starting from 1-5psi where on the vf39 it felt more like you were either in vacuum or full throttle, full boost and not much in between. Between gears boost recovery is much better, there is less of the rubber band feeling. I can shift "slowly" and instantly be back at full boost in a WOT situation, where with the vf39 it always felt like it had to take a breather between gears if you didn't shift like a dsg.



Other than that, powerband is HUGE, I can't say enough good things about it. Having that rush to redline in every gear is something special. I absolutely hated having torque falling so much on the stock turbo, that feeling in 4th gear that you were making 100hp at 6000rpm... so glad that's gone now!



Next steps? Well first of all, it will be to change the exhaust out. Currently I am running a 3.5" downpipe and the wastegate is plumbed back in (at a very low angle merge) just before it necks down to my 3" MadDad dp/Whisper catback section. The main reason that torque is falling slightly is that we are starting to choke the turbine a bit. There are a few ways to solve this; cams, cam gears, higher compression ratio, reducing exhaust energy, larger turbine, larger turbine housing, reducing exhaust restriction... Well the obvious (read:cost effective) route is opening up the exhaust, so I will have a 3.5" built and use a Varex muffler so that I will have the ability to keep the noise down when trying to avoid unwanted attention.



Some additional notes: Oil and coolant temps are rock solid and "low", they don't spike at all. Some of this is due to using a fresh AC condenser and using a TMIC, my new Koyo rad is getting as much fresh air as possible, I haven't seen coolant temps over 193f and no oil temps over 95c. After numerous dyno pulls and plenty of "fun" driving they don't spike at all. IATs are basically ambient, I have only watched them on one drive to be honest, but 12c outside temp I was seeing IATs from 11-15c (measured post intercooler) before, during, and after a couple of 2 gear pulls on the hwy, so at this power level, no need for concern of the TMIC, however next summer I will be taking more notice.



Here are a couple of driving videos, one of just a quick 1st through 4th:






This video I wanted to try to show how responsive this is from a worst case scenario. This video I am rolling along in 1st gear, foot completely off throttle, at idle speed. I go WOT and go first through 4th and 60mph comes up right around 5sec. I would actually like to compare this to any other setups so if you have a similar video, or could make one I would like to see it (showing speed/boost/rpm)




.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Now that the sun is back out, the salt is off the roads and the pavement is getting warmer it was time for a tire upgrade.

Now that I'm putting less km per year I decided it was time for some r-compounds. Initially I ordered some Toyo RA1s, but they only shipped 3 and didn't have anymore in stock... So next up were some Nitto NT01s (same compound as the toyos) however they were out of stock as well, with no ETA... So third times a charm and I went with the Toyo R888s in the same 255/40/17 size.

They are pretty similar in width to the 255/40/17 Direzza2 so I didnt need to do any clearance work (very close to running inboard on the rear though... Maybe a 1-3mm spacer will be added)

Got them installed and another perfect alignment at ABM Auto Centre.





 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

I love this build! I always fantasize what it would be like to have a V8ish torque curve, but most people just want max power. Keep it up!
 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Awesome build! Looks like we share some philosophies in building STI's although my power mods are limited because of the autocross class I race in. This brings me to my question. Allowances are changing for 2016 meaning wider tires than before can be used. I'm looking at running the same wheels as you with 255/40 R17 Bridgestone RE71R's. I don't have adjustable lateral links, but it looks like are set ups are very similar. Have you had any issues with tire or wheel fitment?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Awesome build! Looks like we share some philosophies in building STI's although my power mods are limited because of the autocross class I race in. This brings me to my question. Allowances are changing for 2016 meaning wider tires than before can be used. I'm looking at running the same wheels as you with 255/40 R17 Bridgestone RE71R's. I don't have adjustable lateral links, but it looks like are set ups are very similar. Have you had any issues with tire or wheel fitment?
If you can/willing to pull your rear fenders you should be ok at -2 or maybe a bit more depending on ride height... But don't quote me. I always planned to use the adj lateral links to ensure fitment. When I test fit the wheels/tires initially with the rear at ~13" and -1.6 on camber plate only I found that it would smash the fender. I have a pic earlier on that shows this to a degree. My fronts are rolled but I'm not certain that it was necessary at -2.1

I can say that in hard cornering up to 130mph i haven't had any rubbing, and nothing over bumps, so it does fit in the fenders quite well.
 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Ah ok thanks. I can' t do any pulling. Rolling the lip is allowed, but there's not much to roll on an 06. In the rear my ride height is a bit higher at 13.5" and the camber is -2. I may be at the limit back there with the wheels, tires and spring rates I'm running now though. My front is like -3.4 so I wasn't too worried about clearance there.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Ah ok thanks. I can' t do any pulling. Rolling the lip is allowed, but there's not much to roll on an 06. In the rear my ride height is a bit higher at 13.5" and the camber is -2. I may be at the limit back there with the wheels, tires and spring rates I'm running now though. My front is like -3.4 so I wasn't too worried about clearance there.



This is at ~12.5-13" -1.6, oem lateral links, camber plates. Strut slots were probably outward but I'm not sure, so camber was probably all from the plates. This stuck out past the fender by probably 5-10mm...

I think you should play with some spacers first to test clearance cause you'll be sooooo tight
 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Well all my headlight stuff is done and I finally had a chance to go out and take some proper photos. unfortunately I don't have a tripod so these were all handheld and at a fairly slow shutter so they could be a bit sharper but are ok.
All photos were taken at the same aperture, shutter speed and focal length. post processed for some noise reduction, sharpness, and to make white balance the same through all photos. No exposure compensation
f2.8, 16mm, 1/3 shutter, iso100

so,
OEM 2006 Subaru STI projectors
TRS TSX-R clear lenses
Philips 85122XV Xtreme Vision bulbs (low beams)
Philips HIR (high beams)
Light corner marker tint film
Morimoto 5Five 50w ballasts (low beams)
GoldenEye mod

All work provided by Dynamotorsports

Image Link


Image Link
This build looks fun! Stock motor? I'm looking into a turbo upgrade sometime soon and will have to give the gtx2867r some thought!

Quick question... what is the Goldeneye mod? Is that what is giving your projector bulb that golden ish color? I like...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

This build looks fun! Stock motor? I'm looking into a turbo upgrade sometime soon and will have to give the gtx2867r some thought!



Quick question... what is the Goldeneye mod? Is that what is giving your projector bulb that golden ish color? I like...

Thanks, yes stock motor, clutch (although at 230,000km it is now worn out)

Yep, a lot of people were doing "demon eye" mods to the backside of the shield and my friend that did the retro for me had done a couple of his own cars this way using the dei gold heat tape and being reflective it works pretty well.



 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Image Link


This is at ~12.5-13" -1.6, oem lateral links, camber plates. Strut slots were probably outward but I'm not sure, so camber was probably all from the plates. This stuck out past the fender by probably 5-10mm...

I think you should play with some spacers first to test clearance cause you'll be sooooo tight
That's a good idea. Thanks.
 

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Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Thanks, yes stock motor, clutch (although at 230,000km it is now worn out)

Yep, a lot of people were doing "demon eye" mods to the backside of the shield and my friend that did the retro for me had done a couple of his own cars this way using the dei gold heat tape and being reflective it works pretty well.

Image Link


Image Link

Wow that's really cool. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Been a while but I have a short update. I started hearing some clutch noise, light tapping on engagement back at the end of summer and within the same day it got louder, was more difficult to downshift and noticed some odd slip on engagement but almost total engagement under load.
So last week I was able to get a hoist at Dynamotorsports for them to put in a new unit.

Found a broken spring carrier, and a second that was about to snap, a scored flywheel, but still some meat left ... Not bad for 230,000km ;)








I replaced it with an Exedy Stage 1 with HD pressure plate and an Exedy light weight flywheel. Also added an ACT monoloc for added peace of mind.



Now on to break in. I have a few more planned upgrades in the next couple of months, just ran out of time to complete on this go 'round.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

Plans for this summer are pretty small and simple.

- Getting some new headlight bulbs. Ordered some Philips X-Treme Ultinon d2s. These are 6200k but with 3300lumens at 35w. I'll be driving them at 50w so along with a substantial lumen increase it will also warm them up to the 5500k region. Hopefully they take the 50w as well as my X-treme Vision (3200lumens at 35w, 5000k)

- New seat. OEM drivers seat is painful to sit in for anyone and way too wide. It was livable until I got a Fiesta ST for a daily... those seats are too perfect for me and ruined the driving experience on the STI ;) I've ordered a Recaro Pole Position ABE (street version), it is used as an OEM seat for some cars and is comfortable and wide enough to allow some wiggle room. This will probably be the best mod of all.

- Exhaust, changing to full 3.5" with a Varex muffler. Not sure yet it if I will keep the wastegate plumbed back in or dump it.

- Boost control solenoid. Picked up a Company23 bcs as it is chipped to match the hZ of the ecu boost control so it should get rid of the helicopter sound on the gate which I absolutely hate. These new MAC valves are also very fast reacting

- Finally going to install my GReddy front lip and WRX side skirts. Been wanting to do this for many years now...

- Debating whether to add fog lights. I picked up a set a couple of years ago, I think I will have to mod them to use the Morimoto LED units though as they perform very well on my Fiesta.

- Picked up a spare intake manifold, so if time allows I'm going to have it customized to move its efficiency range further to the right from stock (which is already pretty good!)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

New Philips X-Treme Ultinons are in and they are as advertised. I am running them at 50w so the colour temp is warmer than the 6200k they would be when run at 35w. I would say somewhere in the 5800k range. They are similar to the LED headlights in terms of the colour temp you see on the asphalt. To compare to the X-Treme Visions (4800k at 35w) they are noticeably cooler in the spectrum and are very similar in brightness/intensity. They claim 100 lumens more than the X-treme Visions which are already top of the range for brightness at a cooler temp.


These are an interesting new style, D2S/R I think they might refer to them as D2C. The bulb has the blockers for use in OEM reflector housings requiring D2R bulbs (I think Foresters use these?)



For those that are "into" this stuff, notice these new X-treme Ultinons are using a yellow salt instead of the older red salts that make the standard WX Ultinons have a more purple colour and that caused them to go red/mud colour at 50w.


Heres a nice (lol) camera phone noisy pic of - OFF, then amber VLEDS TRITONS (corner marker/turn signal) only (so ridiculously bright I love them), then new low beams.



 

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Discussion Starter #36
Re: blurred's '06 STI gtx2867r/vband, non-racecar, fun, responsive build

I haven't updated in a while! It's been mostly a maintenance summer and didn't get to drive much unfortunately. I am hating the exedy stg 1 w HD pp and exedy light flywheel combo, chattery and stiff, I feel like I can barely drive properly :tdown:

Had a rear wheel bearing go earlier in the year, fixed that but seemed to have some handling issues start soon after, it felt as though my shocks might be blown, imprecise steering etc, mostly during suspension movement. Then I started hearing a faint clicking/grinding noise that got worse every drive. It seemed like it might be the rear diff or an axle but found it was the wheel bearing again, along with the hub, or vice versa... Got that fixed and it seems to have been the issue all along... the rear wheel was a little wobbly with the broken hub :rolleyes:

Onto the fun stuff!

I finally bit the bullet and ordered a seat to replace my aging oem park bench. I had a set of Spec-C Type-RA seats for a while and liked it, but stupidly sold them and have been in agony with the massive and flat stock seats ever since.

Recaro Pole Position ABE.

This is a street version of the Pole Position and as such is not FIA certified, however it is TUV certified for road use in Germany. It has larger belt openings to allow correct routing for 3pt seatbelts as well as some indents so that the buckle can be fed through and not dig into your body. The headrest is slightly more padded because it does not need to accommodate a helmet.

This seat is supremely comfortable, finally supporting my legs, offering good upper body support while allowing some leg movement so is comfortable on longer drives as well.






Also it was time for a brake change, I decided to try out some Endless product this time, using MX72 pads and RF650 fluid.

In the spirit of change also moved from Amsoil 10w/40 to Motul sport 5w/40





After that I just went for a nice drive :D







 

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Some nice changes in there! I'd be interested to hear how the 5w-40 Sport Motul treats you. I've been looking at it for street oil rather than running 300V all the time as I do now.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Some nice changes in there! I'd be interested to hear how the 5w-40 Sport Motul treats you. I've been looking at it for street oil rather than running 300V all the time as I do now.
It should be great for the street. There is talk that it is basically 300v but with a detergent pack and additives. The 300v shouldn't be used long term in a street car unless you actually require it. 300v does a great job dealing with fuel dilution, so e85/water-meth/massive injectors-rich pump gas idle/cruise type cars, or just if you are really pushing a lot of power and abusing is daily.
I would say go for it and pop in the 300v for track days
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Some xmas updates, I can't leave well enough alone ;)

Time for another round of lighting improvements. This time I opted to swap out the OEM HID projectors and retrofit a set of morimoto 4TL-R bi-xenon units. I was thinking about using the larger mini-D2S 3.0 or 4.0 but my goal for this upgrade was simply distance lighting. The OEM setup had great width but spread the output to do this so the hotspot wasn't as intense as it could be. the 4TL-R in our testing vs the OEM and 3.0 shows a more intense hotspot with the 4TL-R which means better long distance lighting. This comes at the expense of some width intensity.... but that will be rectified later ;)

The other reason for the upgrade was simply the ability to have "double" the high beams, so the OEM were retained, still with HIR bulbs and with the addition of the high beam from the projector shield moving to allow light above the cutoff I have LOTS of high beam light now :)

breakdown, testing, and retrofit :





Completed, before buffing:



After Buffing. I also had a clear protective film from APShield added so that I can reduce the amount of pitting and uv damage better.



On to the output. Still using 50w morimoto ballasts and Philips Xtreme Ultinon bulbs. The wall is just over 200' away so this really shows how well this setup works. Still a nice crisp cutoff and really good intensity at this distance, and the high beams kill it :)







 

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Discussion Starter #40
I was never happy with how low I sat using the BuddyClub rails so I changed them out last week for a setup that fit my size better.

I sourced the Recaro ABE specific aluminium side mounts, a Planted Technology base, and a set of Recaro sliders. I initially was going to use the Recaro side mounts on the buddy club base/slider but was concerned that I would still be too low.

This combo puts me right where I need to be, it actually makes getting in and out a little harder strangely enough as the gap between seat and steering wheel is now smaller :lol:









I'm not too happy with planted, though, after finding that there isn't a threaded boss on for the seatbelt buckle. If you have the tab, it should be a proper nut welded on. Unfortunately I didn't unpack the part until install so this meant I had to remove the seat another day after getting a nut to get it all bolted up properly. Being a standard size, 7/16-20 this should be present on any seat base with a tab for a seatbelt buckle.

The next thing I learned was that now I have the seat a few inches higher, I need a seatbelt extension, so I ordered a 3" buckle extender to make it easier to get in and out.
 
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