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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

Picked up my first WRX STI on 3/11/15. I have been a long time mustang fan coming from a 2014 Mustang GT track Pack and a 2012 Mustang GT Track pack before that. I wanted to try something different and I was on the fence about getting WRX STI but when I saw the 2015 in person it was a done deal. This car is well equipped out of the box and I am going to do things differently this time around. Normally I do all performance mods and neglect everything else. This time I am going to focus on keeping the car clean and protecting the exterior. This is going to be a true street build in which everything needs to be street legal and keep the car daily driveable. My last couple of cars I would end up removing stuff (I.E. Interior Panels, A/C) only to find myself putting everything back in so I do not want to make that mistake again.

I requested that the dealer leave the car alone, not to drill the front plate, not to install dealer sticker, and not to wash the car or remove any of the plastic. The car actually came off the truck and I was the first and only person from that point to get in and drive it. The dealer even let me drive it to the gas station and fill it up as well as get an inspection sticker which was more than I asked for. They let me do that after I expressed my concerns over a tech driving the car. I specifically ordered the car with no options to start off with a clean slate and 13 weeks later it is here. It is actually cheaper to buy and install the options myself than to have them done at factory or port.

The goal for this car is to have every modification add value to the overall driving experience without turning it into a race car. The car must retain all of its creature comforts and be able to be a daily driver. With that being said a lot of trial and error will be needed to find the right parts to suit my needs. This journal will be updated as money and time allows. Power-wise the car will remain mostly stock (for now). I plan on building up everything around the drivetrain first and changing out misc things on the car that should have been there from the factory.
I will be using this journal to document its progress by mileage

CURRENT POWER
280WHP 309TQ

2015 WRX STI FUS02 BASE MODEL NO OPTIONS

Build Date Jan 2015

Modifications List

ENGINE/PERFORMANCE
-Stock Engine
-IAG Street Series AOS
-Mishimoto 2-port Catch Can
-Perrin Intercooler Coupler
-Turbo Xs Intercooler Elbow
-Nameless Axleback Muffler Delete

DRIVETRAIN
-Stock

ECU/TUNING
-Cobb AP V3 AP3-SUB-004
-BrenTuning Stage 1 Protune

SUSPENSION
-Stock

EXTERIOR
-XPEL Film
-Cquartz Finest
-40% Tint
-OEM Body Side Mouldings
-Subaru AWD Debadged
-Totsubo License plate Mounts
-Cruiser Clear License Plate Covers
-Rally Armor Mud Flaps

INTERIOR/I.C.E
-Cobb AP Piano Black Faceplate
-Cobb AP screen protector
-WeatherTech Floor Mats/STI Logo
-OEM Cargo Tray

FLUIDS
-Engine: Motul 8100 Xclean 5W30
-Transmission: Motul Gear 300
-Diff: Motul Gear 300

MISC
-Speedway Motors Nomex Honeycomb
(Intercooler and Radiator Protection)
 

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Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

Very nice! I've just ordered my 2016 in CBS as well. I've requested that no one touch the car when it arrives off the truck but me LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

First mod at 13 miles. Cobb AP V3 (AP3-SUB-004) with piano black face-plate and screen protector
Cobb AP Stage 1 ACN91 MAP running 93 octane (extra safety cushion). Break was performed for 1,500 miles using this map set to I Mode (Max 8 PSI)
I picked this location for the stealth factor. I originally had it mounted on the A pillar but everyone kept asking what it was from a distance so I determined it was too noticeable especially since I put the blue face-plate on. I moved it here and bought a black face-plate and also like how the wire is not running up the drivers side of the dash now. I would like to add another mount for under the dash or seat so I could hide it easier instead of taking it in and out but that's for another day.

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

At 15 miles installed Hella Supertones, Perrin Horn Bracket, and Subimods V2 Wiring harness. I originally bought the Subimods Yellow Sharptones with wiring harness/bracket combo. When I opened the box, one of them was slighly scratched/dented and I just didnt like it. After reading several reviews and seeing a review video on the subimods bracket, I determined that the design was just too flimsy and the horns would be able move around which I do not want. I ordered the perrin horn bracket along with a set of red Hella Supertones and am very happen with the quality of the bracket. Its rock solid, has a perfect finish, and looks very high quality. I am amazed at the level of detail and it truly shows you the level pride this company takes in their products.

I also added some Speedway Motors Nomex Honeycomb radiator protectors in front of the radiator and the intercooler while everything was apart. This stuff is strong yet bends very easily. Cutting to size is very simple with just a regular box cutter. This will keep the a/c condenser and the intercooler free from dings and bent fins. Another quality product and not very expensive at just under $30 a sheet.

Hella Sharptones with Perrin Horn Bracket


Nomex Honeycomb Radiator Protector


Nomex Honeycomb Intercooler Protector
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

They thought it was a very unusual request but were more concerned about customer satisfaction since technically they gave me an un-prepped, unready dirty car. I told them not to worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

At 27 Miles the car receives a full detail of exterior, interior, and engine compartment as well as a stage one Paint Correction, Cquartz Finest paint sealant, XPEL Clear Bra, 40% window tint, and subaru awd emblem removed.

With the soft paint Subaru uses I wanted to make sure the car was protected right away. Worth it? Only you can decide how much you care about maintaining the original condition of the paint on your car. This level of work is not cheap and I do not plan on getting rid of the car so it was worth it to me. It is much cheaper in the future to remove the clear bra and re-apply than it is to repaint any damaged panels. Also, because it is a black car, I feel like it was a worthwhile investment.

Cquartz Finest is a ceramic clearcoat. I opted to go with this instead of Opti-Coat based on the recommendation of my detailer. Cquartz Finest uses different technology and brings out a much more glossier shine than Opti-Coat although it is only good for 2 years while Opti-Coat is good for 5 years.

Xpel Clear Bra Applied to:
-Full hood
-Full front Bumper
-Full fenders
-Headlights
-Side mirrors
-A pillars
-Roof strip
-Full rocker panels
-Door sill guards
-Door cups
-Door edge guards
-Trunk edge guards
-Full rear bumper.


 

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Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

What kind of bracket did you use to mount your AP there? I am like you, don't want the pilar mount either.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

What kind of bracket did you use to mount your AP there? I am like you, don't want the pilar mount either.
The one that it came with in the box. Just peel and stick to where the console starts riding up to the radio. Word of caution! place it where you want then move it down a little. You need to be able to slide the AP up to get it off the mount. If you put it too high you will hit the bottom of the radio and not be able to get it off. When taking the AP on and off the mount hold the base where the sticky part is so you don't eventually pull it off from repeated movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

At 35 miles Rally Armor Mudflaps with red lettering and Totsubo front License plate mounts were installed.

The Rally Armor mudlflaps look great and have a nice glossy finish. I was worried based on reviews that they would be too soft and move around but while they bend easily, they definitely do not flap around.

I could not decide what I wanted to do for a front plate mount. I did not like the look of an offset plate so all of those options were out of the question. I originally ordered a front plate kit from Adapter Foundry off of amazon and while it would work and was as described, I was not impressed. The kit came with two rubber expanding plugs, a couple standard mounting bolts and a cheap universal Bell license plate frame that you can get at any auto parts store. What I did not like the most about the kit is the fact that the plate frame sits right up against the front bumper potentially causing marks from movement over time. I ordered the Totsubo kit from Heuberger Subaru and recieved two high quality square brackets. They fit perfect and have 3m tape on the back which also acts as a rubber cushion between the bracket and the bumper. The plate sits around a half inch away from the bumper and looks great.



 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

At 300 miles installed Subaru OEM license plate frame and Cruiser Clear Shield license plate bubble shields to compliment the Totsubo license plate mounts.

Wanted to add some more support since I had the plate mounted directly to the brackets. The OEM license plate frame is a high quality black powdercoated piece.

The only modification needed was removing the rubber bumpers on the back in order for it to fit flush on the Totsubo license plate mounts. Now the plate wont bend easily if something were to bump into it.


 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Re: BLKSTI16's 15 CBS WRX STI

At 600 miles the sound tube is deleted. This was done using all OEM Subaru Parts from a 2014 WRX STI (OEM Intake Tube) and a 2015 WRX (OEM Firewall plugs). I originally removed the sound tube and its components and put a cap on the tube coming out of the firewall. I tried to remove the grey plastic piece but its attached to something behind the cowl panel. I decided that I wanted a cleaner look than just a bulky plug sticking out of place under the hood so I went to the subaru parts site and saw that the 2015 WRX comes with plugs in place of where the sound tube would go. I ordered the plugs, removed the cowl panel assembly, removed the second sound tube behind the cowl, and plugged both holes with the new OEM rubber plugs. Everything fits perfect, is OEM, and now I have another option for running wires to the engine compartment since the second hole leads right behind the glovebox into the cabin.

Part Numbers Used:
46013AG020 2014 WRX STI Air Intake hose
46021VA000 WRX Seal Plugs (2) needed
91486KJ010 Cowl Panel upper clip (4) Needed (Broke them)
91486KJ000 Cowl Panel Lower clip (4) Needed (Broke them)
24226KA250 Band Clip- Holds rubber tube under cowl to firewall (see pic)
Bought spare one to use to plug existing hole but you don't need to.
Didnt want to remove existing one from hose since it may break

Cowl panel clips optional if you dont break them all (good luck)








Sound Tube Parts Removed


Also removed the DRL resistor while I was in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
At 900 miles I installed WeatherTech Floor Mats front and rear with STI Logos on the front ones, Subaru OEM Cargo Tray, and some Carbon Fiber/Red Subaru Badge overlays/AWD sticker





 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Just a little update at 1300 miles. Nothing Special :) Mostly For documentation purposes. I checked the oil, which I have been doing every other fill up, and not a drop has been lost! So far so good. Hopefully that's a good sign. I have been monitoring with the AP since day one and the DAM has always stayed at 1 and have had no signs of FBK or FLK. Everything appears to be in perfect working order.

I finally got a chance to wash the car. It gets covered in dust, dirt, and bugs in a matter of days. After a failed attempt the day before I was determined to get this done. I had just finished the washing phase and while the car was drying the landscaping truck showed up across the street and the leaf blower through dirt everywhere. The second time I had to deal with all the crap falling from the trees and I was surprised that I was able to get this done with very little rework. It was a cloudy cool afternoon so I took the opportunity and just finished by nightfall. The only downside to all the detailing work I had done is that the car can only be subjected to a strict hand-washing procedure otherwise damage to the coating can occur. Im used to just running my cars through the simoniz car wash.

Products Used:
Two cheap Autozone wash buckets
Autozone Microfiber Knobby sponge
AutoZone Bone Sponge (to wash tires)
Mr Clean Car wash Gun (use it for the filter)
CarPro Reset Shampoo
CarPro Reload(ceramic coating/glossifier)
Pinnacle Glass Cleaner with water repellent
CarPro edgeless microfiber towels (to buff after reload/glossifier)
AutoGeek Waffle Weave Microfiber towel (to wash the glass)
CarPro Streak free glass towels (to dry the glass/remove streaks)
Mothers Foaming Wheel & Tire Cleaner
8 inch Montana Original Boar’s Hair Wheel Brush (to clean wheels)
Dodo Juice non-sling tire dressing (flat black no shine)
Pinnacle GlassWork Windshield Washer Booster (added to washer fluid)




 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
At 1350 Miles added Intercooler Armor with STI Logo.

I originally bought this when I first got the car but there was no information on whether or not it would actually reduce airflow to the intercooler. I have been using Nomex Honeycomb to protect the intercooler since the day I got the car and there is not one single ding, dent, or bug on it. The honeycomb is what dirt track/circle track racers use to prevent rocks and mud from ruining their radiators. There is speculation that a bug screen may cause the air to flow around it at speed but have not found concrete data on this. I will admit that this piece looks much better under the hood but the holes in the screen seem very small in comparison to the honeycomb.

My initial assessment is that there is a very slight reduction in airflow compared to the honeycomb and I believe that the screen could even be made with slightly larger openings and still offer the same protection. If this was made using 1/4 Hardware cloth/chicken wire, I think it would be perfect.

Update: Did some crude testing on the Intercooler armor. After Driving for an hour, normal driving, highway, no boost, I immediately popped the hood and started taking some temperature measurements. Note: I could place my hand on the intercooler and it was cool to the touch. Outside temp was around 60F. Left side Intercooler was 95F. Right side was 75F. As I went across the top of the intercooler from left to right temps were as follows:

Top of intercooler
95F-------85F---------75F
Bottom of intercooler

It appears that under normal driving the intercooler is not affected at all. Will update in the future with some hard driving results. Temps were measured using digital probe.



 

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what size nomex core did you use for the radiator? Great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It was an 18X22 inch piece that I cut to fit. I couldn't figure out how to get the center core support bar all the way out so I loosened the bottom bolts, pulled the bar forward as far as I could, cut the two pieces down the middle, and slide them in. It is held firmly in place by the center core support bar, no attachment clips needed. I forgot to take actual measurements while I had the bumper off but If I had to do it again I bet the smallest 15X22 inch piece that they offer would fit perfectly. I would buy extra just in case though. The actual radiator/condensor area is alot smaller than it looks.
 

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It was an 18X22 inch piece that I cut to fit. I couldn't figure out how to get the center core support bar all the way out so I loosened the bottom bolts, pulled the bar forward as far as I could, cut the two pieces down the middle, and slide them in. It is held firmly in place by the center core support bar, no attachment clips needed. I forgot to take actual measurements while I had the bumper off but If I had to do it again I bet the smallest 15X22 inch piece that they offer would fit perfectly. I would buy extra just in case though. The actual radiator/condensor area is alot smaller than it looks.
Thanks a bunch! I appreciate the information.

Could you put the Nomex core between the intercooler core and the 'STI screen'?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The Nomex Honeycomb doesn't go above the top edges of the intercooler so I don't see why it wouldn't fit in between the intercooler guard although I don't think it would be a good idea to use both at the same time. I would only do one or the other and personally I like the Nomex Honeycomb more but the screen looks so much better. You can paint the Honeycomb if you want. I painted one using black caliper paint and it looks good from a distance but no matter how many coats I did at certain angles and lighting the original color would show and the paint became fuzzy from the fibers. I like things to be clean and even so I put a regular piece on.

From a distance


Up close with light
 
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