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512 Posts
Battle Monkey's AutoX WRX
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221 - 240 of 426 Posts
Joined
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512 Posts
Finally sold my ACT clutch and flywheel today. Someone got it for a steal at $650 shipped, but I was at the point where I just wanted to get rid of it...
I put my name on the "Want List" for a set of slightly used Hoosier A6's today. Sh*t just got real in SC... With coilovers and A6s I should be extremely competitive in SM.
In other news, I called Stance today but the owner is out of the office and they still aren't sure when I can expect my coilovers... They said that the shipment is supposed to be there "early this week" but aren't 100% sure. If it gets there tomorrow, I should have them by Friday... Keeping my fingers crossed...
I put my name on the "Want List" for a set of slightly used Hoosier A6's today. Sh*t just got real in SC... With coilovers and A6s I should be extremely competitive in SM.
In other news, I called Stance today but the owner is out of the office and they still aren't sure when I can expect my coilovers... They said that the shipment is supposed to be there "early this week" but aren't 100% sure. If it gets there tomorrow, I should have them by Friday... Keeping my fingers crossed...
Joined
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512 Posts
Well, not going to have the coilovers this weekend...
I'm really getting frustrated with this whole issue and the fact that nobody seems to know what's going on except for the owner who is not around. Also, learn how to return phonecalls please...
I'm really getting frustrated with this whole issue and the fact that nobody seems to know what's going on except for the owner who is not around. Also, learn how to return phonecalls please...
Joined
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3,326 Posts
Time to move on
Joined
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2,092 Posts
Damn son. ****s weak.
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
Joined
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2,092 Posts
When you learn to move on after you shell out 2 grand and don't get anything from it you let me know....
Sent from my HTC Evo 3D
Joined
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512 Posts
Haha, luckily I haven't spent any money to date on them. So the only thing I've lost is my time (and not beating Alexander at the last event, lol)...
I'm starting to inquire about ASTs now. I'm done f*cking around. If they can respond to me today and say I'll have them by Monday then I may consider it. But they have 3 hours to call me back.
I'm starting to inquire about ASTs now. I'm done f*cking around. If they can respond to me today and say I'll have them by Monday then I may consider it. But they have 3 hours to call me back.
Joined
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512 Posts
It's also probably due for me to post some good news.
I was able to ship the wrongly sized brake rotors back, so I should be getting a nice 149+27 credit back on my statement.
I was able to order a set of Centric Premium blank rear rotors from Motion Lab Tuning near Charlotte, NC. 2 days shipping to my door and excellent help. They've gone above and beyond my expectations to provide me with great customer service. :tup::tup:
Rotors will be installed this weekend. I figure that for purposes of autocross, the blank rotors in the rear should serve me just fine.
I was able to ship the wrongly sized brake rotors back, so I should be getting a nice 149+27 credit back on my statement.
I was able to order a set of Centric Premium blank rear rotors from Motion Lab Tuning near Charlotte, NC. 2 days shipping to my door and excellent help. They've gone above and beyond my expectations to provide me with great customer service. :tup::tup:
Rotors will be installed this weekend. I figure that for purposes of autocross, the blank rotors in the rear should serve me just fine.
Joined
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512 Posts
So I had some good news today...
New Centric Premium blank rear rotors came today. They look really nice, and they're at a very reasonable price.
I ordered through Motion Lab Tuning in Charlotte, NC. Excellent customer service, they go above and beyond what they need to do to make sure to help you out. Here is their website if you'd like to check them out. Hit up Alex if you're interested in getting pricing on some products.
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New Centric Premium blank rear rotors came today. They look really nice, and they're at a very reasonable price.
I ordered through Motion Lab Tuning in Charlotte, NC. Excellent customer service, they go above and beyond what they need to do to make sure to help you out. Here is their website if you'd like to check them out. Hit up Alex if you're interested in getting pricing on some products.
yes motion lab is good people. I have gotten several things from them. Todd is a good tuner a well. motion lab will be the shop doing my pro tune. :thumbup:
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3,326 Posts
If he spent 2 grand that may apply. :tup:
Joined
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512 Posts
Installed the Centric Premium rear rotors this afternoon. It's a very simple install to do on your own. It took me about an hour and a half in total.
Use brake cleaner to remove the oils from the friction surface of the rotor. The finish is pretty nice, and did not come off like the finish on my DBA's did...
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For caliper removal. Here is the top bolt.
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Bottom bolt.
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Plenty of meat left on my pads. Use a c-clamp to compress the pistons.
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Find a sturdy spot to set the caliper. DO NOT LET IT TANGLE BY THE BRAKE LINE!!
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To remove the rotor, you can use the 12mm bolt from the right side of the rear sway mount.
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Thread that bolt into the spot on the rotors, and it will pop them right off
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The inside of the old rotor, it's pretty worn out.
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Rotor off. You can see how the parking brake assembly works.
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Muuuuuch better
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Side-by-side comparison
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Slide the caliper back over the rotor, bolt it on the same way you removed it.
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Put your wheel back on. The finish matches that of the wheels perfectly.
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!!WARNING!!
!!BEFORE YOU DRIVE MAKE SURE TO PUMP YOUR BRAKES TO BUILD THE PRESSURE BACK UP IN THE SYSTEM AND EXPAND THE PISTONS BACK TO THE ROTORS!!
Use brake cleaner to remove the oils from the friction surface of the rotor. The finish is pretty nice, and did not come off like the finish on my DBA's did...
For caliper removal. Here is the top bolt.
Bottom bolt.
Plenty of meat left on my pads. Use a c-clamp to compress the pistons.
Find a sturdy spot to set the caliper. DO NOT LET IT TANGLE BY THE BRAKE LINE!!
To remove the rotor, you can use the 12mm bolt from the right side of the rear sway mount.
Thread that bolt into the spot on the rotors, and it will pop them right off
The inside of the old rotor, it's pretty worn out.
Rotor off. You can see how the parking brake assembly works.
Muuuuuch better
Side-by-side comparison
Slide the caliper back over the rotor, bolt it on the same way you removed it.
Put your wheel back on. The finish matches that of the wheels perfectly.
!!WARNING!!
!!BEFORE YOU DRIVE MAKE SURE TO PUMP YOUR BRAKES TO BUILD THE PRESSURE BACK UP IN THE SYSTEM AND EXPAND THE PISTONS BACK TO THE ROTORS!!
Joined
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512 Posts
SPONSOR UPDATE
So after waiting over 2 months for my Stance Pro Comp coilovers to arrive, I have finally had enough... Today I sent an email to my rep at Stance, withdrawing my acceptance of their partial sponsorship.
Reasons for withdrawal
- 2 months and coilovers have yet to ship
- No one at their office seems to know anything about timelines except the owner
- The owner is never there, so what good is he?
- They can never return a phone call
- They can never return an email
- I'd rather pay full price for proper customer support
Moral of the story
Customer service is extremely important, and people don't like to be given the run-around. A returned phone call with sincere explanation of the delays could have potentially saved this relationship.
I'm done waiting, and I found yesterday that my rear right damper is toast... So now I will end up missing more events due to having waited so long for something that I will never receive.
So after waiting over 2 months for my Stance Pro Comp coilovers to arrive, I have finally had enough... Today I sent an email to my rep at Stance, withdrawing my acceptance of their partial sponsorship.
Reasons for withdrawal
- 2 months and coilovers have yet to ship
- No one at their office seems to know anything about timelines except the owner
- The owner is never there, so what good is he?
- They can never return a phone call
- They can never return an email
- I'd rather pay full price for proper customer support
Moral of the story
Customer service is extremely important, and people don't like to be given the run-around. A returned phone call with sincere explanation of the delays could have potentially saved this relationship.
I'm done waiting, and I found yesterday that my rear right damper is toast... So now I will end up missing more events due to having waited so long for something that I will never receive.
Joined
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512 Posts
So my Perrin Rear endlinks have been clunking for a good while now, due to the bearings wearing out.
I just ordered a new set of rears from Kartboy, he has a "BigRon" sale going on today for 11% off.
104 shipped new.
I just ordered a new set of rears from Kartboy, he has a "BigRon" sale going on today for 11% off.
104 shipped new.
Joined
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512 Posts
I got some new fluids today.
Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 Engine Oil
Amsoil Ea Oil Filter
Amsoil Series 600 Brake Fluid
I'm a Preferred Member for Amsoil, so I get all of my products at wholesale. I'm currently running Motul RBF600, but I figure that at ~$10/bottle I can't afford not to give the Series 600 a shot. I've heard great things, and I look forward to testing it out!
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Amsoil Signature Series 5w30 Engine Oil
Amsoil Ea Oil Filter
Amsoil Series 600 Brake Fluid
I'm a Preferred Member for Amsoil, so I get all of my products at wholesale. I'm currently running Motul RBF600, but I figure that at ~$10/bottle I can't afford not to give the Series 600 a shot. I've heard great things, and I look forward to testing it out!
Joined
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512 Posts
I'm afraid so... My car clunks worse than ever, and I don't want the damper to completely let go at an autocross.
Joined
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425 Posts
Hopefuly AST gets you setup quickly so you can get back out there!
edit: didn't realize there were images in that post because I was browsing at work, not it's all better.
I'm interested to see how your fade resistance experience goes with the fluid (if you do any driving that gets the RBF hot enough to boil) to see if you have a similar experience to the review you posted by Nathan. I might be interested in switching depending on how my RBF holds up when I get the car back on track with the improved brake cooling.
edit: didn't realize there were images in that post because I was browsing at work, not it's all better.
Joined
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512 Posts
Yea... I'm trying to find a set of 4100s (since I really don't think I need much more), although I may not have a choice but to wait for the 4150s. But I've heard that it may be another month before they're released...
I'll definitely keep you posted on how it works.
Joined
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512 Posts
So, my new Kartboy endlinks came in today. Excellent quality product. I couldn't wait to get them on since my Perrin endlinks have been clunking like crazy for probably close to a year!! Sure enough every single bearing on them was worn out and dried up.
The unboxing
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Installation
Lift the car up to make it easier to access the old endlinks. The bottom is a 14mm head and the top is a 17mm head. Unbolt the old endlinks from the swaybar and lateral link.
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Here is a comparison between the Perrin and the Kartboy link. You can really see how dried up the spherical bearing has gotten. It lasted about 3 years on the car before it started clunking terribly.
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The car must have its weight on the wheels in order to properly install the new endlinks.
TIP: Unbolt the swaybar from the car completely to give it more play to line up the bolts. It will be extremely difficult to do with it fully mounted up.
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TIP: Do not completely bolt down any of the bolts until they are all through the endlinks and connecting all of the parts.
Driver's side installed. I also decided to try the swaybar on full stiff.
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Passenger's side installed.
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While I had the swaybar unbolted, I figured that it was a good time to throw some grease on the bushings connecting to the swaybar.
Here is what I used. It was purchased from Energy Suspension. It is SUPER SUPER sticky stuff, and you MUST wear gloves when handling it. I also used a butter knife to apply it.
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Here is the one of the bushings that I greased up. There are two in total.
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Overall, it took me about 1.5 hours to do. I would've saved about 15 minutes if I didn't forget a few things and have to run back over to my apartment.
The unboxing
Installation
Lift the car up to make it easier to access the old endlinks. The bottom is a 14mm head and the top is a 17mm head. Unbolt the old endlinks from the swaybar and lateral link.
Here is a comparison between the Perrin and the Kartboy link. You can really see how dried up the spherical bearing has gotten. It lasted about 3 years on the car before it started clunking terribly.
The car must have its weight on the wheels in order to properly install the new endlinks.
TIP: Unbolt the swaybar from the car completely to give it more play to line up the bolts. It will be extremely difficult to do with it fully mounted up.
TIP: Do not completely bolt down any of the bolts until they are all through the endlinks and connecting all of the parts.
Driver's side installed. I also decided to try the swaybar on full stiff.
Passenger's side installed.
While I had the swaybar unbolted, I figured that it was a good time to throw some grease on the bushings connecting to the swaybar.
Here is what I used. It was purchased from Energy Suspension. It is SUPER SUPER sticky stuff, and you MUST wear gloves when handling it. I also used a butter knife to apply it.
Here is the one of the bushings that I greased up. There are two in total.
Overall, it took me about 1.5 hours to do. I would've saved about 15 minutes if I didn't forget a few things and have to run back over to my apartment.
221 - 240 of 426 Posts
