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Discussion Starter #322
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Perhaps you're right on the tool, but I didn't want to risk it with something else.

Here's what I was talking about with the RTV sealant:




I was just second-guessing myself because I was reading afterwards about cure time and only tightening bolts another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after finger tight....I cut the excess off that came out after I let it dry for 30mins or so after completely tightening the bolts.

Bonus exhaust images!


 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Ooooh nice, Swaintech?

Enjoy it while it's clean. My header looks pretty nasty and it's only been 1750 miles. It's good stuff though.

Edit: good on you for running the correct filter as well. I buy those Wix a case at a time :cool:
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

On my STi, the Swaintech'd header isn't easy to see. On my S2000, I painted over the Swaintech'd header with a ceramic spray. Looks good 3 years later.
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

On my STi, the Swaintech'd header isn't easy to see. On my S2000, I painted over the Swaintech'd header with a ceramic spray. Looks good 3 years later.
Maybe I'll pull the header and hit it with black ceramic spray...I get oil on it every time I remove the filter too, even with a formable funnel. It's not something you really see but it bugs me.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Haha, thanks Kyle! Yeah it was done by SwainTech. I'm sure it will do the job. I don't trust most other filters unless they have the BPV rating we need to pay attention to.

Maybe I'll pull 'em off since I'm at an early stage and ceramic spray 'em. I just may do that.
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

A lot of people get hung up on the filter bypass rating, however, there is more to it than just PSI rating. The pressure rating is a differential in pressure inside the filter itself and not related to the engine oil pressure. The bigger the filter (of like media), the more it will filter at a given pressure before entering bypass operation. The media itself will play into the restriction of oil flow.

In short, if you're getting an entirely different filter (bigger) the rate/efficiency at which it filters/bypass will not directly relate to another filter you're comparing it to.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Right, very true:). I think the Wix filter is the same size as an OEM filter though. The same goes for the media. I will see if I can find the post where someone cut a bunch of filters in half. I think it was on BobIsTheOilGuy or something like that.
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

The Wix is a high quality filter that also happens to meet the factory bypass spec, I switched over to them after years of running Purolator PureOne PL14610's. I still run the PureOne's on my wife's 2.5i, it's a good filter that's built well. Bypass is only 14psi or something like that but as Jason mentioned the media size matters as well, and the 14610 is quite a bit longer than the OE filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #330
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Yeah, you and Jason are both correct. The Wix is good for sure, but it's OEM-sized; I've read some real positive reviews for them, although there aren't too many out there for this application. It seems the Wix isn't well-known. That Purolator has been around a while but it's like double the length, maybe a tad more.
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Clarification: what I meant was it doesn't seem like it's known or mentioned much for Subaru applications. At least I don't see all that much written about 'em.

Did you have any other people that were looking at APs? I think you mentioned another possible group buy last time we talked?
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Right, very true:). I think the Wix filter is the same size as an OEM filter though. The same goes for the media. I will see if I can find the post where someone cut a bunch of filters in half. I think it was on BobIsTheOilGuy or something like that.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/16252-sti-oil-filter-analysis-preliminary-data-dimensions-pics.html

PL14610 user here.
 

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Discussion Starter #334 (Edited)
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Dang, thanks for the thread camel. That's a good read so far. Good to know you're having good results with the Purolator.

Since I haven't posted about the car in some time, here's where I'm at; it's that time where I feel like admitting a stupid mistake and you gotta do that to keep yourself grounded right? Otherwise we all get egos or whatever...idk...something, something, hindsight is 20/20.

ANYWAYS...so when I went to fit the EWG to the uppipe and the dump tube, the vbands would not close all the way. Why, you ask? Well, that would be because SwainTech coated the backsides of the vband flanges on the pipe and tube, as in, the surfaces that the inside of the vband clamps touch. And I even noticed this when I got them back from being coated and thought "this may be a issue later", but stupidly, I did nothing.

I asked SwainTech to mask that area off, but I wasn't clear enough I guess. It's kind of upsetting that they did that, seeing as I'm sure they're familiar with how vband flanges work and that the tolerances are slim unless you are able to accurately size clamps. So yeah, lesson learned. Before you ask, I did try grinding with a Dremel/filing the material off the flanges, but I was going nowhere fast. I was rounding off Dremel bits and ruining a couple files, which really speaks to the quality and toughness of SwainTech's product! Also, there's really nowhere in town where I get could my hands on physical selections of clamps to test fit. So rather than deal with back and forth shipping of clamps of all sizes and work at it any more, I took a bit of a loss and sold that part, got a new one, and sent it off to SwainTech already with new, more clear instructions. So now I'm waiting for that to come back to me. Sheesh....

Yes, that's right boys and...??..girls??:)rolleyes:yeah right, as if there are any girls out there reading this). An entire year goes by and I didn't even bother to test fit completely. I will forever facepalm myself for that dumb move. That's my what-the-fuck award for 2015.

However, that being said, even though I'm waiting for turnaround time on the new uppipe, it was recommended to me to do ARP head studs while the motor is out. After some deliberation, I have decided that that is what needs to happen. That is a weak point in the motor and with my plans for tracktime fun, I would be pushing coolant sooner or later with stock studs. So what this means is that a whole new can of worms opens up, more things get pushed back, and possibly not even driving the car 'til next year, which sucks balls. I have myself to blame for a lot of it, should've started earlier in the year and here we are at October already.:(

Jesus that's depressing...

Who knows, I will try to tackle things myself as much as I can, but I am not too confident in my abilities when it comes to removing cams and heads -if needed- and putting it all back together. Searching forums only goes so far, so yes, I admit I need a bit of handholding with certain things. When that happens, generally speaking I find it's best to have someone alongside you. At some point, I do have to ask for help.

So we will see, but that is where I'm at for the time being.
 

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Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Sounds like things that could happen to me, lol. The valve covers and camshafts don't sound intimidating. The cam sprocket bolts are what concern me.


I assume the head studs can't be swapped one at a time while leaving the head on; the block side threads probably don't fit through the head gasket or the head itself. Their 1/2" head stud video was also interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Sounds like things that could happen to me, lol. The valve covers and camshafts don't sound intimidating. The cam sprocket bolts are what concern me.

I assume the head studs can't be swapped one at a time while leaving the head on; the block side threads probably don't fit through the head gasket or the head itself. Their 1/2" head stud video was also interesting.
Thanks for that vid, camel. That's certainly a feasible idea. Those bolts are something I've been concerned about too. I did actually watch that Outfront head stud video before all this hoopla and thought it was interesting as well. Idk, it may be possible to do one bolt at a time, but I'm not so certain that the bolt shanks are the same size on either end, which would probably mean pulling heads off. Jason, you used the ARP 2000s, chime in on that?

Be prepared to drill out the exhaust cam bolts. It's really easy and much faster than breaking tools not getting it loose.
That's true. I'm going to try doing it the old fashioned way to see if they budge, but I'm not going to suffer several broken tools, that's for sure. I'll consider drilling or welding. I am NOT looking forward to this either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #339 (Edited)
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

After doing a hell of a lot more reading, I feel a little more reassured about this work at this stage. So that's always good. I'm going to attempt this over the coming weekend with the same friend who helped remove the motor. Also going to take another crack at that sheared bolt still in the block. Have not heard back from SwainTech yet regarding the uppipe since we're coming to the end of the third week they've had it.

Dropped more $$$ on parts to get ready for this. Yay.

- ARP 2000s
- OEM head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug well gaskets, cam seals, timing belt
- misc. OEM brackets
- LIC Motorsports aluminum head plugs
- Tomei timing belt guide
- TiC FU cam bolt kit

Probably not needing replacing, but pending inspection anyways:

- OEM water pump
- timing pulleys
- spark plugs

Also didn't mention that in August I had the flywheel resurfaced by a local shop. I wasn't too impressed with the job, but then again it didn't cost a helluva lot, so I guess you get what you pay for. The surface looks and feels a bit too rough IMO, but I may be wrong. I might post some pics on here to get anyone's opinion. So in light of that I was able to get a new OEM flywheel on sale for a really good price from FredBean's Labor Day sale.

Have just been tinkering around with other basic stuff in the meantime, cleaning other parts, tied back the TGV connectors on the wiring harness, etc. I'm currently looking at solutions for wiring up the gauges and fitting the sensors for the oil pressure and boost pressure plumbing. Which reminds me that I need to also do the same for the EBCS/EWG/MBCS.
 

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Discussion Starter #340 (Edited)
Re: Baron's '05 STi journal - **motor is pulled...now to mod...**

Pulled off the driver's side valve cover last night to keep an eye on the action when I removed the timing belt, NBD:









Neither of the cams snapped back from the tension, which is surprising since the cam lobes are slightly off center of the bucket contact points on the intake for cylinder 2 and the exhaust for cylinder 4, as you can see. But I'm sure all it wants is just a slight nudge :)

In even better news that you can see from the pics, there's really no obvious or detrimental wear going on inside the valvetrain/heads. No sludge, just spotless. The spark plug wells were very clean, even the contacts and spark plugs themselves; no corrosion anywhere. Considering the exterior state of the motor, I was quite concerned before undertaking all this about discovering damage or wear on critical components. The lobe tips only ever so slightly show signs of contact; the buckets have no scoring on them whatsoever. So I think it's safe to say that it looks like this motor has stayed pretty well-oiled. That's 2 out of 3 crucial areas investigated now; the first being the crankcase and the last being the cylinders/piston heads.

As for the timing belt, all around it looks pretty good, however I'm going to use it to help keep the cam gears from moving when removing the cam bolts, so I won't be reusing it and have a new OEM one ready to go. As for the bearings? Yeah.....they didn't fare so well. 2 sound like roller skates, one makes a dull sound when spun, and one is very resistant to rolling, so those are all getting replaced. The tensioner pulley itself sounds okay, but there is quite a bit of grease around the hydraulic pin, so that's getting replaced too. The pulley on the water pump feels just right and makes no sound at all, so that stays. After replacing the pulleys, I'm confident that the engine will idle a bit smoother and quieter, as well as getting rid of some of that "Subaru shake".

As for what's ahead, I'm feeling quite confident now in my abilities with most of this after doing a shit-ton of reading around. I need to go get another pair of vice grips, because tonight, I'm going to attempt the cam bolts; fingers crossed.

I called SwainTech today; looks like they'll be shipping my parts back today/tomorrow, so that's good. I'm anxious to see their work this time.
 
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