This is a step by step of how to remove the Banjo bolt that is on the engine block just across from the up-pipe top flange. Its the one with a filter screen that others have indicated should be cleaned or replaced periodically. Subaru calls it a "Union screw (with protrusion)."
Tools needed:
12 mm socket - for intercooler bracket bolt
14 mm deep-well socket - for up-pipe bracket nut and bolt
10 mm socket or wrench - for stock turbo heat shield bolt
17 mm wratcheting wrench - for Banjo bolt
10 inch or longer extension - to reach up-pipe bracket bolts
Parts needed (See pic "Union bolt and washer part numbers"):
Union screw (if replacing) - Subaru part # 14445AA090
Copper washers (2) - Subaru part # 803912040
Removal and re-install takes about one hour.
Start by removing any heat shields that are in the way. I have the SPT heat shield that comes off by removing the 12 mm intercooler support bolt.
(See pic "Engine bay area"). I also have the stock turbo heat shield installed. I didn't take it off, but there will be a little more room to work if you do. A 10 mm socket is needed to remove the stock heat shield bolts.
Next, the up-pipe bracket needs to be removed to be able to get a wrench onto the Union screw. Remove the nut (on the up-pipe stud) and the other bracket bolt (See pic "Up pipe bracket").
You can just barely see the Union screw from above once the up-pipe bracket is removed (See pic "View1 union bolt").
Next, remove the Union screw using the 17 mm wratcheting wrench (See pic "Wrench on union bolt"). I was only able to get about two clicks of travel on the wrench at a time. After a few turns I was able to get my fingers on the bolt to speed up the removal.
Once the old bolt is removed, you can try to replace the copper washer between the oil pipeline and the engine block with a new one. I was OK with leaving the old one there. I did use a new washer on the new bolt. You can clean up the screen in the old bolt and re-use it, I suppose. I felt better putting a new one in.
The torque spec on the Union screw is 21.4 ft-lbs (29 N-m). I could not get a torque wrench in there so I estimated the tightness based on the way it felt when loosening the old one. Be carefull not to overtighten! I ran the engine for a few minutes and checked for leaks before reinstalling the up-pipe bracket and heat shield.
Next, install the up-pipe bracket using the 14 mm deep-well socket and extension. The torque is 24.6 ft-lbs (33 N-m).
Re-install the stock heat shield using the 10 mm socket. I tightened them to "snug."
Finally, re-install anything else you needed to remove to access the Banjo bolt.
I plan to check for any oil leaking over the nexy few days.
I have about 30K miles on my 06 STi. I don't plan to do this again for at least another 30k miles, unless I have a problem as a result of the screen being clogged.
Tools needed:
12 mm socket - for intercooler bracket bolt
14 mm deep-well socket - for up-pipe bracket nut and bolt
10 mm socket or wrench - for stock turbo heat shield bolt
17 mm wratcheting wrench - for Banjo bolt
10 inch or longer extension - to reach up-pipe bracket bolts
Parts needed (See pic "Union bolt and washer part numbers"):
Union screw (if replacing) - Subaru part # 14445AA090
Copper washers (2) - Subaru part # 803912040
Removal and re-install takes about one hour.
Start by removing any heat shields that are in the way. I have the SPT heat shield that comes off by removing the 12 mm intercooler support bolt.
(See pic "Engine bay area"). I also have the stock turbo heat shield installed. I didn't take it off, but there will be a little more room to work if you do. A 10 mm socket is needed to remove the stock heat shield bolts.
Next, the up-pipe bracket needs to be removed to be able to get a wrench onto the Union screw. Remove the nut (on the up-pipe stud) and the other bracket bolt (See pic "Up pipe bracket").
You can just barely see the Union screw from above once the up-pipe bracket is removed (See pic "View1 union bolt").
Next, remove the Union screw using the 17 mm wratcheting wrench (See pic "Wrench on union bolt"). I was only able to get about two clicks of travel on the wrench at a time. After a few turns I was able to get my fingers on the bolt to speed up the removal.
Once the old bolt is removed, you can try to replace the copper washer between the oil pipeline and the engine block with a new one. I was OK with leaving the old one there. I did use a new washer on the new bolt. You can clean up the screen in the old bolt and re-use it, I suppose. I felt better putting a new one in.
The torque spec on the Union screw is 21.4 ft-lbs (29 N-m). I could not get a torque wrench in there so I estimated the tightness based on the way it felt when loosening the old one. Be carefull not to overtighten! I ran the engine for a few minutes and checked for leaks before reinstalling the up-pipe bracket and heat shield.
Next, install the up-pipe bracket using the 14 mm deep-well socket and extension. The torque is 24.6 ft-lbs (33 N-m).
Re-install the stock heat shield using the 10 mm socket. I tightened them to "snug."
Finally, re-install anything else you needed to remove to access the Banjo bolt.
I plan to check for any oil leaking over the nexy few days.
I have about 30K miles on my 06 STi. I don't plan to do this again for at least another 30k miles, unless I have a problem as a result of the screen being clogged.
