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^ you don't need to go all out obviously. I myself don't have a lot of hands on type knowledge and experience.

I think, first identify what you want to do. All good shops can work around your budget and goals with good results.

Don't let this 3:1 ratio business discourage you.

Ps, sorry for hijacking.
Not discouraging by any means, I just realistically don't think I'd ever be able to fork over this kind of money despite making a really good salary, at least not right now. I'm currently 26, living with my parents and saving for a house. I'm trying to save as much as I can so I can buy a $300-400K+ house outright or at least minimize the amount of time I'm losing money in interest to the government in the form of a loan ;).

I realize I'm still young and have my whole life ahead of me, so who knows, maybe in the distant future I'll build my motor significantly if this one ever explodes **knock on wood, not on my pistons :rofl:** Also, I have the same mentality as the OP with regards to do it once, do it right; I'd be more than inclined to follow similar steps as he has, except I don't have the technical skill to do even a 1/4 of his work. So in essence, I'd be paying quadruple more in labor. Now that might be a turn-off if it ever came to that :lol:.

Which brings me to my other question I forgot to ask in my previous post to the OP. What, in your opinion, do you think may have led to the ultimate ringland issue you had?
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Olenderc - in hindsight, I could have (literally) done nothing more than drop in new pistons and moved on. The "while I'm in there" mentality took hold and here I am. All in what you want. I'm hovering around $33k in aftermarket parts to get it to where I am now, but have every intention of keeping it as a toy, forever.

Also, diy'ing is not hard. Very little of what I've done takes a lot of knowledge... It's mostly having the right tools (and farsfe) and being resourceful. There are many books out there on blueprinting engines. The factory service manual does step by step for car disassembly/reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Is the Earl's Power Steering Cooler better than the Group N one?
Group N is Tube and Fin, which is more than adequate for an STi... I wanted my P/S and oil cooler to match and a Tube and Fin will not suffice for oil. That said, yes, technically the Earl's cooler (bar and plate) is more efficient.

 

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Discussion Starter #66
No pics for the weekend update...

Got rod bearings and main bearings clearanced (plastigauge)--mains are all right at 0.0015" and rods around 0.0007.

Short-short block is assembled. Screwed up piston rings when I was grinding (over-ground one of them after my ring grinder "broke in")...so, I ordered another set and ground them before sending them off to be re-WPC'd. Decided to forgoe cryo treatment.

Waiting for cam bucket to show so I can spec replacements.

Goal is engine install the last week of May.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
What was the cost of all the Cryo work if you dont mind me asking?
$450 for entire engine, excluding clutch. They quoted me $100 for clutch, so I decided to pass (wouldn't think triple disc will have any issues)

In case anyone is interested, WPC was about $400 for the parts I had done.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I'll get better pics in the light of day but--cool all the things.



Washer fluid tank and forgot to get pics, but I mounted the coolant catch can next to it. Oil catch cans are tucked under the driver side headlight.



Blurry, but....

 

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Discussion Starter #73
Not that anybody probably cares but...

Ordered the 4.38mm Subaru buckets and they were still too thick for all my valves. Said screw it and ordered a set of SuperTech shimmed valves. They were no problem for my exhaust valves (easily lashed to w/in 0.2mm) but still had issues wtih 3 of my intake valves. Took the smallest shims SuperTech sells (1.35mm) and had 0.05 and 0.10mm trimmed off.

As always, excuse the crappy picture quality

Heads are done



Engine Assembled





And installed








AND..............it won't start. Had fuel leaks causing problems. Then I discovered my key wasn't being detected (ignition lockout). All that fixed and still nothing. Tore the engine back down to confirm timing was right and reset it anyway (counting teeth instead of relying on lines).

Compression is good--107-120psi (keeping in mind rings aren't set).

No fault codes. Spark plugs were wet (ie, getting fuel).

Ran out of time...so, here it sits again.

 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Other mistakes--didn't fully understand how the cam seals worked and ordered the wrong set (well, half a wrong set). Spent a morning calling every Subaru dealership in the area, trying to find parts in stock.

Had to make bracket number 3 for fuel pressure regulator--first was too high, second interfered with the A/C line, third is adjustable...

Boomba rails are unnecessarily large and very awkward in-chassis...hindsight, I'd rather have a traditional rail.

Mishimoto hard tube coolant pipe is absolutely garbage--ended up throwing it out. OD is smaller than ID of silicone hose and fitmet was horrible. Clamps were too small. Setup was unnecessarily heavy.

Haven't done any "routing and clipping" because I'm waiting for the POS to start, so that is still a mess.

Lastly, me thinks the 4 gauge power wire I got is not enough. It *may* have been a dead battery but I ended up running a second power source directly to the starter when I was trying to get it started.


Also, additional things, as of recent;

-KS Tech Mega MAF intake

-Braille Battery is on the way and I have the mount for it--just need my rivet nuts to come in so I can mount it in the trunk

-Whiteline roll center/bumpsteer--needs an alignment, so I figured I'd better get it over with, now. Was a slight PITA to get the "cones" off the factory ball joint.

-Proper fire extinguisher and ASI fire extinguisher mount

-And, just a ton of misc. hose and fittings
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Been fighting a crank no start for a month+. Finally hooked up a DAQ tool and found issues with RH Exhaust cam being off. Pulled the gear and found the dowel ended up in one of the oil holes.







 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
Bought a new cam gear and finally started it up. Did the 20 minute cam break-in (Amsoil Break-In). Dumped the oil (nice and glittery--waiting for oil analysis) and refilled with Amsoil Break-In. Put 200 HARD miles on it (lug curve pulls). Changed oil again and refilled with synthetic and hooked up my oil cooler.

Coolant temps are staying around 190°F but is pushing water out so that when it cools there's a void in the radiator...don't know if this is going to be the norm.

Oil temps are staying around 180-190 thanks to the t-stat.



Lastly, broke an axle today because why not, I haven't spent enough on this effing car this year.

Still have an issue with a cam gear claiming it's in advance, which is throwing the car in limp mode. Replaced sensor and didn't fix.



Car is amazingly smooth, considering I've now replaced almost every single mount. Triple disc is LOUD AS SHIT but is amazingly smooth, easy to take off with and BUTTER SMOOTH with shifts. Cams sound unreal--actually sounds like a rally car, now....that growl.

Can't believe how big of a difference the steering rack has made. Should have been this way from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
What's an axle compared to so many smiles per gallon

Glad to see you have your car running :)
Still tired of dumping tons of money... Just this month I've done wire harness, cam gear, fuel rails, more fuel line, - AN fittings, and now it'll be a bit until I can do DSS (so probably not this year).

Finally cut oil filters apart. Look good. Only had fine shavings in the oil itself.



 
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