awenthol's 2013 - Replace all the things
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Moar replacing all the things.
IRL, the seats don't look so different. Disappointing that Sparco doesn't sell aluminum side mounts for the QRT's, so I'm in the process of making some. However, these seats are light AF-- < 10 lbs. Just ONE of the "Planted Seat" bases weighs more than both seats, so I'm also having to fab my own adapters to the factory mounting. Been waiting on the second Schroth harness now, for some time.
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IRL, the seats don't look so different. Disappointing that Sparco doesn't sell aluminum side mounts for the QRT's, so I'm in the process of making some. However, these seats are light AF-- < 10 lbs. Just ONE of the "Planted Seat" bases weighs more than both seats, so I'm also having to fab my own adapters to the factory mounting. Been waiting on the second Schroth harness now, for some time.
3M 1080 Satin Dark Gray
Some of the missing updates from last year. Picked up a set of Mooresport front and rear top hats and KW V3s. I know in the long term, the V3's won't be enough, and I'll have to go to something more track oriented, but for now, I still have a ton of things I need to do before I buy a set of $5k coilovers.
The front top hats add height to the suspension, so I'm almost as low as the coilovers go, to get proper ride height. Then, in the rear, the combo of top hat (about 1/2-1 inch lower) and lower control arm (somehow, another 1-2 inches lower than stock) mean I had to pickup a 1.5 inch spacer from Subtle Solutions, to get the rear ride height correct. The KWs do not have independent height adjustment, so I would have had a ton of preload in the springs, otherwise.
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I started them on the "added caster" set-up, but quickly discovered it was too much. The Whiteline ALK already puts the caster at 8°, which is now what I'm running. Front and rear are both about -2° camber, and I will adjust as needed at the track.
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Picked up a set of Verus Engineering canards, as well as CF lip, sides, and rears. Still need a proper front splitter to balance out the wing. The car still understeers (though I will admit I have not done a corner balance yet.
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Posted the fuel system previously, but had to upgrade because I picked up a Blouch turbo--just a Dom3 for now. Really did it just to get plumbing all figured out and see how a relatively small turbo feels. It is definitely not enough :/ ...In-tank pump is still a DW65c, feeding an Aeromotive 320lph pump in the radium surge tank. Changed feed over to -8AN and updated the ECA gauge to the Fuel EC/Temp combo unit. Was waiting on some backordered -AN fittings to finish up fuel system routing, but got that cleaned up this year.
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Also working on installing an Accusump--I know, overkill but I'd rather be safe than sorry...
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The front top hats add height to the suspension, so I'm almost as low as the coilovers go, to get proper ride height. Then, in the rear, the combo of top hat (about 1/2-1 inch lower) and lower control arm (somehow, another 1-2 inches lower than stock) mean I had to pickup a 1.5 inch spacer from Subtle Solutions, to get the rear ride height correct. The KWs do not have independent height adjustment, so I would have had a ton of preload in the springs, otherwise.
I started them on the "added caster" set-up, but quickly discovered it was too much. The Whiteline ALK already puts the caster at 8°, which is now what I'm running. Front and rear are both about -2° camber, and I will adjust as needed at the track.
Picked up a set of Verus Engineering canards, as well as CF lip, sides, and rears. Still need a proper front splitter to balance out the wing. The car still understeers (though I will admit I have not done a corner balance yet.
Posted the fuel system previously, but had to upgrade because I picked up a Blouch turbo--just a Dom3 for now. Really did it just to get plumbing all figured out and see how a relatively small turbo feels. It is definitely not enough :/ ...In-tank pump is still a DW65c, feeding an Aeromotive 320lph pump in the radium surge tank. Changed feed over to -8AN and updated the ECA gauge to the Fuel EC/Temp combo unit. Was waiting on some backordered -AN fittings to finish up fuel system routing, but got that cleaned up this year.
Also working on installing an Accusump--I know, overkill but I'd rather be safe than sorry...
And then lastly, the seats, which I should have done 5 years ago. Still doing some test fitting, so I'm using the planted seat bases for now. Overall, seats need to go down another inch.
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And, someone has already called dibs on the factory seats
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Although, he liked the Sparco more
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And, someone has already called dibs on the factory seats
Although, he liked the Sparco more
Yes, sir. First time at that track, so I had to do the driver school for cert. Spun bearing just as I was starting to do proper laps, so I have no idea where my times would be.
Bearings are toast but I think rod and crank are salvageable.
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8,798 Posts
Who did you do your cert with? That track is weird, if you had experience already, you should not have had to take that class.
I used to live 10 minutes from that track. There is a NASA weekend there this weekend, but I think I'll just shoot for an open lapping day in a few weeks instead. I need to reroute my oil drain to the front of the motor, above the oil line. It takes some work to get that replaced, plus, time for a clutch!
When do you think you'll have a motor in? If you go to MAM again, I'd be game to come out and run! Been a few years since I've been out and actually run the track.
Replace the crank and rod and anything that can get contaminated with bearing bits.
I used to live 10 minutes from that track. There is a NASA weekend there this weekend, but I think I'll just shoot for an open lapping day in a few weeks instead. I need to reroute my oil drain to the front of the motor, above the oil line. It takes some work to get that replaced, plus, time for a clutch!
When do you think you'll have a motor in? If you go to MAM again, I'd be game to come out and run! Been a few years since I've been out and actually run the track.
Replace the crank and rod and anything that can get contaminated with bearing bits.
Doing Autobahn in a few weeks, so I need to get this thing back together. Will likely do the next RPM after that.
Instructor was Kurt (guessing you know him because of S2k). He didn't get a chance to do a ride-along but went out for a ride-along in his car after effing mine.
Also, impressed you recognized the track from such a non-descript partial photo
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8,798 Posts
Yep, I know Kurt.
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I've got a lot of miles on that track. If you go to their webpage, to the road course page, you'll see my car on the front page. Let me know when you're planning on going. I should be able to make it out with enough notice. I've been itching to get back out there and see how much faster I can go. My fastest lap time there is a 1:44 on a full weight, NA street car and half worn/cycled R7's.
I've got a lot of miles on that track. If you go to their webpage, to the road course page, you'll see my car on the front page.
Let me know when you're planning on going. I should be able to make it out with enough notice. I've been itching to get back out there and see how much faster I can go. My fastest lap time there is a 1:44 on a full weight, NA street car and half worn/cycled R7's.Updates:
After some research and remembering which bearings I used when I did the build 5/6 years ago, I have concluded my rod bearings were too tight (ie, all rods had some wear). So, lesson learned, opening them up for the rebuild.
1) No issues with block--deglazed cylinders and am working on gapping new rings
2) The Manley crank had wear on rod 2 journal (of course), so I'm having the crank re-ground and polished. Due to timing constrains (the shops around me are at least 1 month out), I ended up getting a new (again, Manley) crank. I will use the "old" one to start building a second engine, to keep as spare.
3) Rod was effed--ovaled, and I don't see value in doing a re-grind on them. Regrind on the crank + regrind on the rods starts to get to the limits of bearing options. For what they cost, I just ended up replacing them.
4) Went with IAG's full oil pan/pickup/windage/baffle setup, since the Killer-B windage is effed, and I've been using a steel Moroso oil pan forever.
Rods and mains are clearenced--0.0015" on mains, 0.0020" on rods. Missing a couple seals, otherwise, engine should be back together this weekend.
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After some research and remembering which bearings I used when I did the build 5/6 years ago, I have concluded my rod bearings were too tight (ie, all rods had some wear). So, lesson learned, opening them up for the rebuild.
1) No issues with block--deglazed cylinders and am working on gapping new rings
2) The Manley crank had wear on rod 2 journal (of course), so I'm having the crank re-ground and polished. Due to timing constrains (the shops around me are at least 1 month out), I ended up getting a new (again, Manley) crank. I will use the "old" one to start building a second engine, to keep as spare.
3) Rod was effed--ovaled, and I don't see value in doing a re-grind on them. Regrind on the crank + regrind on the rods starts to get to the limits of bearing options. For what they cost, I just ended up replacing them.
4) Went with IAG's full oil pan/pickup/windage/baffle setup, since the Killer-B windage is effed, and I've been using a steel Moroso oil pan forever.
Rods and mains are clearenced--0.0015" on mains, 0.0020" on rods. Missing a couple seals, otherwise, engine should be back together this weekend.
Stressful weekend at Autobahn... Going into the trackday weekend with maybe 20 miles on the engine and battling CAC/LTR (charge air cooler, low temp radiator) leaks and pump issues. However, engine still runs....
@yamahaSHO: RPM has a trackday this weekend but I'm taking a break/working on some things. Likely go to the one in July.
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I will have to update with track pics later.
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@yamahaSHO: RPM has a trackday this weekend but I'm taking a break/working on some things. Likely go to the one in July.
I will have to update with track pics later.
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