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Discussion Starter #341
Moar random pictures, dump.

Bolt-in half cage, for now. Eventually it'll get swapped out for a proper full cage. Just need something (proper) for harnesses.





Got the Plastics4Performance Lexan windows fitted up and the mounting clips "set". Fitment is PERFECT and they look awesome. Fronts will keep the motor/regulator and rears I think i'm going to hard-mount, and delete the motor/wiring/etc. Plastic wrap still on (hence blue) unitl i get them tinted.







Rear end buttoned up and bumper fitted.

 

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Discussion Starter #344
Thanks, guys. I'm happy with it. Would have liked a bit darker but, whatever.

Finishing up a few things and I should finally be able to post some "glamor" shots
 

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Discussion Starter #348
More setbacks....more hidden damage. Neither the body shop nor I noticed the front subframe was bent at the passenger LCA. Sway bar got bent, so I was in the process of swapping over the new one and couldnt get it on. Subframe is a cheap and easy enough fix but it looks like it might have bent frame mount threaded hole/pad area.

Also, hiding under the fuel tank plastic shroud was a smashed in fuel tank, at the module). I had the issue last year with the E85 (algea?) so I still have my original tank. I had managed to get it cleaned out, in the meantime, so fortunately another cheap easy fix, just really annoying.

 

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Sorry to hear about the recent issues.

Question regarding the windows, how did you mount them? Glue or bolt them into the door, etc.?
 

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More setbacks....more hidden damage. Neither the body shop nor I noticed the front subframe was bent at the passenger LCA. Sway bar got bent, so I was in the process of swapping over the new one and couldnt get it on. Subframe is a cheap and easy enough fix but it looks like it might have bent frame mount threaded hole/pad area.

Also, hiding under the fuel tank plastic shroud was a smashed in fuel tank, at the module). I had the issue last year with the E85 (algea?) so I still have my original tank. I had managed to get it cleaned out, in the meantime, so fortunately another cheap easy fix, just really annoying.

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UGH that shit is frustrating
 

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Discussion Starter #351
Sorry to hear about the recent issues.

Question regarding the windows, how did you mount them? Glue or bolt them into the door, etc.?
Second pic in post above about them. Found the mounting clips online, then glued them onto the window like factory. They then utilize the factory regulator.

I haven't figured out how I'm going to do the rear quarters yet. Got to get the glass out of the frame and stick the lexan replacement in.
 

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Discussion Starter #352
Rear quarter window is fully molded in. Been using my take offs to figure out how to do the swap....thoigh haven't put a lot if effort into it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #353 (Edited)
Minor updates.

Lexan windows tinted--one of the few things I will not DIY. Pros had to try the rear a few times to get it perfect. Special ordered Huper Optik Ceramic 15







Rear side windows are now hard mounted. Bought a set of used window regulators and chopped them up.




A little bling...started replacing low-load fasteners with aluminum (interior, fenders, etc).






Missing a lot of updates...been doing a bad job of taking pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #354
Since all my fasteners look like garbage at this point, I started replacing everything with socket head screws. Aluminum as previously shown, for all of the interior, body, and low load components (though, tensile and shear strength is right up there with stainless fasteners). All of the "medium" load (grade 7/6, etc) were replaced with stainless. Due to availability, everything else was or will be rep'd with grade 12.9 zinc coated fasteners. The M10-1.25 have been a hassle (mounts, bellhousing-engine, trans, diffs, front subframe) but have managed to secure everything needed. The M12-1.25's are proving quite difficult to source... And everything in the rear suspension, and hubs, use them. The M14-1.5 used to mount the subframe will indubitably take some time to figure out.


Started replacing all of the polyurethane bushings with delrin...just turning some barstock on the lathe. These garbage Torque solution and whiteline components are falling apart already (maybe 20k miles on them).








Trans mounting


Trans tailshaft


Front diff and trans pan




 

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Discussion Starter #355
Rear window in...hopefully. Haven't taken the ratchet strap off yet.





Steering rack bushings...assuming the delrin is durable enough that I don't need a sleeve, anymore.



 

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Those M12-14's should be an issue here, they are based in Atlanta, extremely fast shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #357
Those M12-14's should be an issue here, they are based in Atlanta, extremely fast shipping.
I will get them from McMaster as a last resort--I'm looking for a minimum of zinc coated and all they have are black oxide (for the pitch/length I need). My experience is black ox does not last very long before it starts rusting.


For the M14's, they only carry 2mm pitch, and Subaru is using M14x1.5 for everything...
 

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Discussion Starter #359
Got a bunch of stuff through Fastenal, but again, zinc socket in fine threads are not easy to come by. I'll get it. Just gotta keep searching and contacting suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #360
Made some Delrin bushings for the Kartboy end links, front control arm, and rear upper control arm. My Torque solution engine mounts are shot because they didn't design the bushing interface correctly. Making a set of delrin replacements but if it's too much NVH I'll order Perrin replacements.


 
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