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I had also a clutch squeaking noise (coming from engine compartment), only when the engine was hot. When engine was at cold the clutch was fine (STI 2010 with 40k miles)

So basically, to fix it, I took off the inter cooler. On top of transmission you will see the clutch slave cylinder. I took off the spring, the target was to access the ball joint of the clutch fork below the rubber protection. To unbolt the slave cylinder, there is 2 x 14mm bolt, but to access those bolts, you need to take out the starter motor.

Disconnect the negative on the battery

The starter is held in place with 2 bolts (14 mm), one on the top below ground wire, and one under the starter motor. I found it easier to unbolt the bottom bolt of the starter motor from under the car.

Taking out the starter motor is it pretty straight forward, just need a bit of torque to undo the bolts.

Then I was able to unbolt the clutch slave cylinder (without taking off the hydraulic line).
I sprayed a bit of lithium grease through the rubber protection (inside the transmission case, where clutch fork goes in), and them I pealed off the rubber protection and put synthetic high temp grease on my finger (not too much), and grease the the joint of the clutch fork.


Then I reversed operation, re installed slave cylinder...and make sure to have clutch slave cylinder pin in line with the clutch fork. install back the spring, grease with synthetic grease.
I sprayed lithium grease on slave cylinder. Then get in the car and press clutch pedal several times. I immediately felt the clutch pedal smoother.

Re install starter motor, and inter cooler and re connect the battery.

Switch ignition on, wait approx 10 seconds for computer to reset butterfly intake position after disconnecting battery, then start the car.

Then test drive, specially in city, and your clutch squeaking noise will have disappeared!
Hope this hepls
 

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Hi everyone,

Reviving a dead post, I hope everyone has solved their squeaky clutch problems on their cars, but if not, and it's the spot welds, I'm offering a kit here that will help you replace them without removing the dash, or with multiple universals. The idea is pretty simple, but have helped others do this job in less than 2 hours with the right hardware. Take a look!


Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers,
Peter
 
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