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Is the factory up pipe a 2-bolt design? I'm asking because Killer B has a 2-bolt option, but I'm not sure if that means it works with my factory up pipe.

The reasons I'm not considering the more expensive option with their own up pipe is because my tuner says installing the up pipe adds considerable time to the install and there's not really much benefit other than looking prettier...and it's more expensive.
Factory is 2-bolt and a better option anyway. It allows you many different upgrade options in the future from the many manufacturers that make stock mounting parts. My Full-Race EFR kit is a 2-bolt to the header.

I've NEVER liked the V-band option on the KillerB.
 

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Front Skid Plate 2008-2017 STI - Primitive Racing

I run that hefty beast because I go on the occasional dirt road to get to my parents' house. Plus, it's kind of nice having an opening for the oil filter and my fumoto oil drain valve. I'm going to fab a small plate/door for each of the access holes to get the "full plate" protection while also having the ease of not having to remove my underpanel every time I change the oil.

Only downside to this is it's one heavy bastard. I think the shipping weight was 18lbs, so figure 16lbs for the plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Factory is 2-bolt and a better option anyway. It allows you many different upgrade options in the future from the many manufacturers that make stock mounting parts. My Full-Race EFR kit is a 2-bolt to the header.

I've NEVER liked the V-band option on the KillerB.
Great info - thanks!

BTW, looking at the weight of Perrin and Killer B, they list the stock exhaust manifold at 25 lbs., the Killer B at 17 lbs. (321 stainless), and the Perrin at 13 lbs. (304 stainless).
 

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Factory is 2-bolt and a better option anyway. It allows you many different upgrade options in the future from the many manufacturers that make stock mounting parts. My Full-Race EFR kit is a 2-bolt to the header.

I've NEVER liked the V-band option on the KillerB.
You just don't like V-band or you specifically don't like something they've done with it? I like the concept of V-band but I do not have any experience with it either way, and I'm certainly all about saving some money in practical ways particularly if it keeps other upgrade options open.
 

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I don't like that it eliminates easy upgrades with the header going forward. I would not have been able to run my Grimmspeed EWG uppipe or move over to my Full-Race EFR kit easily.

I like V-bands for thexample most part, but sometimes they are far harder to line up than just putting in a bolt to hold the flanges together while you for things in.
 

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Valuable experience to have, thanks. Sounds like it also sort of falls under the "if it ain't broke" umbrella. As you said, I like the idea of being able to just do ELH and a downpipe for now but down the road if I decided to do spoolinator or some other setup with EWG I could easily make changes.
 

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Now, what about the ELH? For some reason my gut wants me to go for it, but I've had two nationally known tuning shops tell me the gains are not worth the price if you're under 600 AWHP. :confused:
I would put a KB ELH on every car we tuned given the option. They perform much better than the OEM UEL, talking 20-25LB/FT over the stock manifold easily.

Chris
 

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Don't you often see a shift to the left w the power and/or torque curves? That alone would be worth it even if peak numbers weren't hugely affected
 

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I don't like that it eliminates easy upgrades with the header going forward. I would not have been able to run my Grimmspeed EWG uppipe or move over to my Full-Race EFR kit easily.

I like V-bands for thexample most part, but sometimes they are far harder to line up than just putting in a bolt to hold the flanges together while you for things in.
This doesn't help with "kits," but one of the ways I found around that was a custom adapter. The user on here STI-lin' built it for me. Down the road if I want to run a different type of turbo or wastegate, instead of having to replace or modify my up-pipe I can just pop that piece off and modify that. It was only $200 too. Plus, raising the turbo a few inches looks pretty bad ass in the engine bay and gives me much easier access to the wastegate and turbo when I'm working on the car and gave us some more room for plumbing. KB only had the v-band option available when I got mine and this was my way around it, but it turned out being a great addition to my build.



In regard to ELH vs UELH, both will be lighter than cast iron no matter what you do. ELH has the major benefit of equalizing scavenging across cylinders. Worth an extra 2-3 pounds. I also think UELH just sounds broken, but that's subjective.
 

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Removing the undertray would probably put more heat in the engine bay, or at least less air through the radiator. Temperatures under the hood don't matter as much as people think, the cars have fresh air intake and it's a liquid cooled engine to start with. All you really care about is the water and IC temp.

The air immediately under the bumper is a higher pressure zone and the undertray makes sure that the bay doesn't open up until further rearward so the air can draft through the bay and exit. Exposing the air underneath the tray to the engine bay adds turbulence to the airstream and slows it down, raising the pressure under the car and reducing airflow through the radiator and intercooler, while also adding drag.
It increases engine bay temps. I have gone back and forth, and ive seen at least 10deg higher coolant and 20deg higher oil temps with the tray in.
 
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