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I am "thinking" about getting the Subaru gauge cluster that mounts to the top of the dash and was wondering if anybody has chosen that route instead of aftermarket parts. I want to keep my STI all Subaru and am only installing genuine Subaru parts into this one. Any input from anyone as to if they think the price for this option is worth it and if any modifications to the dash are required to install this would be appreciated.

If I only had the extra cash to purchase "another" STI for major modification purposes, that would be the hot setup.
 

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I just recently installed the Subaru gauge cluster (that replaces the clock) filled with 3 Autometer gauges. It fits perfectly and looks like a factory piece (as it should, being a Subaru part). There are no modifications neccesary except removal of the old clock. However, depending on what type of gauges are used, the piece that actually holds the gauges in may need to be modified. Check out wrxtra.com for a premade gauge cluster face (made specifically for Autometer gauges). I happened to get mine on Ebay for $200, including 3 gauges! I personally wouldn't spend the money on a new one (the factory Subaru gauges are worthless, in my opinion). I would recommend purchasing the housing and then adding the gauges and brands that you want. Check on nasioc.com in the for sale section and on Ebay. You may find a better deal than purchasing new. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.
 

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Re: Correct ECU pin for A/F gauge

is the dash pre-wired to install gauges like boost, engine temp, and voltage. Do I need to run additional wiring to the dash console where the gauge housing would sit so they can be wired correctly? any info appreciated!

rick
 

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No, the dash is not prewired for aftermarket (or Subaru) gauges. For voltage, I used a 12V ignition wire that I spliced into from the factory clock harness (which isn't used anymore with the new housing). For gauge lighting, I spliced into the factory boost gauge dash lighting circuit (which allows you to turn on the gauge lights when your headlight/parking lights are turned on and also allows the dimmer to work). One could also splice into the HVAC lighting circuit which is also tied into the headlight/dimmer circuit. Other gauge sensor wires (oil pressure/temp, fuel pressure, boost, EGT, etc.) must be run through the firewall grommet from the engine bay up into the area for the gauge housing (which is really pretty easy). The A/F gauge O2 sensor wire splices into the ECU under the passenger side footwell (which is also very easy).My advice to you is to get a cheapo voltage tester (I got one for $8 at Lowes) and make sure each wire is the one you really want to use. Finally, I recommend tying all of your ground connections into one wire and running it to the engine bay (through the same grommet) and grounding on the intake manifold or engine block rather than somewhere in the passenger compartment. Hope this helps.
 

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The gauges that the factory gauge pack comes with are not that usefull. Boost: this is a must, but you might as well just get the column mounted gauge. Voltage: who needs this? this information is not that important in a performance car and while it can be useufll there are other gauges that should take priority. Oil temperature: isnt the oil temperature the same as the collant gauge on your actual dash left of the speedometer?

If I was going to do gauges, I would throw in a boost, oil pressure, and exahust temperature gauge. Thats my thoughts anyway.
 

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Voltage is a pretty worthless gauge. Boost is a definite must for this car, especially if you begin to modify it. I wouldn't recommend the factory boost gauge (my STi came with it) as it's VERY expensive (around $300 from the factory), not very accurate, and it's slow to respond. I replaced it with an Autometer boost gauge ($55 new) and placed it in the same, steering column mounted position without any problems. I would concur about the oil pressure, EGT, boost and maybe oil temperature, if you're looking for more things to keep tabs on. The temp gauge (not the outside one) shows water temp, not oil temp. The factory water temperature gauge is EXTREMELY insensitive. It stays in the middle through a REALLY wide temperature span and only skyrockets when you're seriously overheating. Most factory gauges are like this. I added an oil temp gauge (using the temp sender installed in the temp plug), mainly to keep attuned to the oil's temp and, hence, viscosity during cold weather so I don't starve the turbo bearings or scar the cylinder walls by overdoing it before the oil is circulating sufficiently.
 

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Yeah, i definitely need to install a boost gauge but, where do the lines to these gauges come from? Where would I get the boost input line? Where abouts does it come from the engine compartment? from the ECU? Never done this before, any help appreciated...

Rick
 

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handbrake turns on the STi DCCD system

The actual boost line is T-ed into the small hose going from the nipple to the nipple on the blowoff valve (BOV). You have to cut the hose and use a T piece to attach a new hose which runs into the passenger compartment through the unused firewall grommet. This hose then screws into the back of the boost gauge with the hardware included with the gauge. (this is how to install a MECHANICAL boost gauge). Electrical boost gauges are similar except they use a sender mounted in the engine compartment with a wire going to the actual gauge. The wires for the boost gauge lights tap into the dash lighting and ground. See wrxtra.com and look in the documentation area under boost gauge installation kit instructions. Oh yeah, I've got a spare brand new boost gauge installation kit and installation instructions I'll sell you for $10 (it's the same one wrxtra is selling-I got it from them but opted to use the factory tubing/T piece from the already installed factory boost gauge out of convenience. It works with mechanical autometer boost gauges). Let me know if I can be of any other assistance.
Bryan
 
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