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Discussion Starter #1
This is a time consuming install but not a particularly difficult one. It takes some brute force strength at an awkward angle, that's about the hardest part.

This install was done on an 07 USDM STi with the whiteline sport kit.

Read the whiteline instruction set: http://www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z208b_KCA359.pdf

Re-read the instruction set, focusing on pic 1 for free castor mod and pic 4 for 07 STi control arm/subframe (U brace) overview. It's pic 5 for MY04-06 STi, notice the different control arm mounting point next to the 2nd "11" in the middle.

The tools I used:
Six point 1/2" drive sockets
Breaker bar
PB blaster
cheater bar for breaking loose bolts
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive sockets
eye protection (you're on your back a lot and spraying blaster above you)
screwdriver and stout needlenose for prying..more later
various ratcheting wrenches



Since I was doing the free castor mod, I modified the instruction set and it worked pretty well for me. Tx are instructions I inserted below, otherwise I just put some of my own commentary in these very good instructions.

1 - get the car to at least the third level of standard jackstands, as much clearance as possible. with this much angle, make sure you chock the back wheels.
T1a - make sure you can break loose the bolts labeled 'OEM bolts' and 2 in pic3 of WL pdf. Use PB blaster and SIX POINT sockets. Those bolts have specs of 180 and 140 ft-lbs, respectively. I had to use an 18" breaker with a 2' cheater to break them loose. You have to get mad at these things. Swear, call em names, whatever works for you.
T1b - If doing free castor mod, break loose the two bolts in pic1 before taking everything apart. makes it a lot easier to get them loose.
I could barely get at them with deep well socket because of exhaust I have

2 - the 'u brace' is a PITA and awkward when it's loose. I loosened NOT removed the front bolt (12mm) and the fender liner plastic poppers on either side then worked my way back removing all bolts until the rearmost. I left one in and loose, then removed the front bolt while supporting the frame with my knees. I then removed the rearmost bolt and slid the frame over me toward the rear of the car.
3, 4, 5, 6 - R and L are clearly marked in several places under the car when looking up, so don't sweat getting things mixed up.
After this point I removed the black thing for the free castor mod and spun it 180 about the long axis, then bolted it back in.


7 - I used mobil 1 synthetic I think..

washer to retain...make sure it's the one with the bigger hole :p I tried putting the wrong one back, doesn't fit.

When installing the new mounting, I had to remove the drivers side gearbox cross member referenced in instruction 1, but not the pass side. YMMV, but you don't need to do this until re-install time.
There is a pry hole for use that Whiteline doesn't reference, and I didn't find until the second side(drivers). Getting these things to line up with only one person is the time consuming, cussing, kicking your dog part of this install. Until I realized that the hole in the frame is there for one purpose: a lever point to get these to line up.

It is at the perfect spacing and size for a long needlenose to be used to lever these mounts into place...look for something flat on one side and curved on the other to minimize damage to your shiny new aluminum hunks.
After getting the two bolts into each mount the rest is pretty easy....I did not use a torque wrench for precise measurement of 180 ft lbs. Didn't feel like spending that kind of $$$ for something that would be used on these bolts and maybe if I decide to buy a D8 CAT.
T9a - I didn't feel like raising/lowering twice for the subframe, so I installed the sf before lowering. I could get to all the bolts with my deep well sockets with the sub frame installed, so I could tighten further after the test drive.

Leftover parts:

I couldn't get the far rear pushpins into the plastic aero guard in the rear of the subframe. This pic is of one side of parts only.
 

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Good write up. I might only add a couple of tips.

On the free caster mod, you screw steel bolts into an aluminum control arm so make very sure your bolt holes are lined up as its easy to cross thread these and turn this into a real mess.

When torqueing down the nut on the end of the ALK it may not be possible to use a torque wrench as the head of the ratchet is too big to fit in the small space in which you're working. You'll need a 24mm box end wrench and then slip another larger box end wrench over the open end to use for additional leverage for tightening.

The bolt holes in the ALK are larger than threaded bosses in the frame and allow for some movement of the ALK. When prying the ALK into place (you pry with one hand and tighten with 1/2" ratchet with the other) make sure you've got the ALK pried far enough in the direction that's giving you the most caster, that is the front wheel moving to the front of the car, and then tighten down with the ratchet as much as you can to hold it inplace prior to torqueing. You can see the front suspension twisting forward as you pry and you have to pry very hard. I used a screw driver instead of needle nose pliers but whatever works.

When doing something new it helps me to have as many references/pics as possible to study beforehand, so I hope I don't offend teagan_ca by posting this link on ALK install from NASIOC, but anything to make this fairly difficult install easier I think is a good thing. Anti-Lift Kit (ALK): How to install - NASIOC
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good reference, I couldn't (didn't) find that before I started. Think I checked on here and scoobymods.
Also, good tip about the caster. Do you have before and after alignment numbers?
I got just below one degree of added caster between these two mods (copied from other thread )
Immediate impressions: Difference felt is immediate on my car. The alignment is off, can tell by braking response and tight, bound up feeling when turning. Definitely more responsive to steering input but won't push the car until after alignment.

I went in for an alignment after four days of driving and these are the before and after's (same shop, same rack, same tech)

camber, caster, toe front tire
before ALK -0.57, 2.47, 0.01 L; -0.91, 2.41, -0.01 R
after ALK -0.70, 3.33, -0.01L; -1.05, 3.33, -0.01 R

Gain was ~.9 deg of caster and -0.1 camber. Less than hoped from but about what was expected.
 

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^^^ Unfortunately, I don't have an alignment shop in my area, certainly not one capable of doing custom algnments on an STi, so I don't have pre/post numbers. I do it all my self but haven't gotten a camber/caster gauge yet. I only had 1 wheel off on the toe after install and it was easily reset to 0 using the string method.

Yes, there is a huge difference in feel with ALK, turn in is so much better and it doesn't plow nearly as much when accelerating in a turn :tup:.

By the way, your daughter is adorable :).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By the way, your daughter is adorable :).
More and more of a handful every day, had to do the swaybar install after she went to bed so didn't finish until ~2am. But def don't stay upset w/her ....they learn cuddliness as a self preservation mech I think.

Something about ALK....oh yeah...Can't wait to see what the combo of ALK and sways feels like.
 

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I just tried to do the free caster mod, no ALK kit. I was under the impression that after removing the two bolts at the rear of the control arm, I could rotate the black piece it was attached to and bolt it back on and that was it. Those bolts are, as stated above, hard as hell to loosen. I could not rotate the black piece. Was I supposed to loosen the large nut at the other end of the black piece to be able to rotate it? I didn't have the correct sized box wrench to get to it, so I had to just keep it "unrotated" and bolt everything back. Can someone clear this up? Also, just by rotating that black piece 180* I would add .5* of caster? It was hard for me to see how rotating that piece was gonna change anything. My understanding it that the flat part of the black piece is offset from the center of the bolt that goes through the bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just tried to do the free caster mod, no ALK kit. I was under the impression that after removing the two bolts at the rear of the control arm, I could rotate the black piece it was attached to and bolt it back on and that was it. Those bolts are, as stated above, hard as hell to loosen. I could not rotate the black piece. Was I supposed to loosen the large nut at the other end of the black piece to be able to rotate it? I didn't have the correct sized box wrench to get to it, so I had to just keep it "unrotated" and bolt everything back. Can someone clear this up? Also, just by rotating that black piece 180* I would add .5* of caster? It was hard for me to see how rotating that piece was gonna change anything. My understanding it that the flat part of the black piece is offset from the center of the bolt that goes through the bushing.
You are going to need to loosen the nut on the other side of the bushing or be able to spin the entire bushing within the mount...which I don't think I could do without totally ruining the control arm piece. Get the control arm bolts back to finger/hand tight and get ready for 3x the fun of loosening what I think are the highest torque spec bolts on our cars.
Remember, six point sockets and long levers are your friend. Those things are a *****.

Edit: Thinking about this a little more, you COULD just unbolt the two bolts in the control arm and grab the nut on the other side w/your six point socket. That bushing will damn well spin before you'll break the nut loose. I'd still loosen the nut because getting things to line up straight with that thing connected will be next to impossible.
 

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Do you remember what size that large nut is? I'm gonna have to buy that wrench because my set doesn't go that large. This bolt is only reachable with a wrench, right? I know I couldn't get a socket on it when i was trying to figure out what size it was. Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think I remember 22mm. And, my socket fit with breaker bar.
I'll check tonight/tomorrow morn and make sure.
 

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I'm not saying your lying, but I don't think I even had room to get a socket on it because it was so close to the chassis.That was without unbolting the bushing from the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
im going to be doing mine in a few hours
i dont know which spacers go were and what new bolts go were.so help with this please
you might want to put off this install and read the linked pdf a few times. I just checked....the link works.
 

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Also refer to this thread: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-stiffening/47176-free-castor-mod.html

The steel bolts attaching the lower rear control arm bushing to the aluminum control arm may be "frozen", as in galvanic corroded together due to the use of the dissimilar metals. A thread or two of the aluminum came out along with the bolt when I did mine and I repaired it using a thread chaser/thread repair kit. If it was any worse it would have needed to have been helicoil'd or timesert'd.
 

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ok,alk installed but ive ran into a spacer issue.
the subframe for my 06 only has 3 bolts in the front like pic4 in the WL directions.i tried to follow pic5 for my04 sti but not having that 4th bolt throws me off.so if someone has some input and what spacer goes were it would be helpful
 

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I ran into a problem. I attached the ALK to the passenger side and move into place. It contacts the body of the car before the tabs are flush for the bolts. The only way to get it to fit would be to use close to a 1/2" spacer. Any ideas?

^^^^This is what happens when you try to do something while slightly hungover, tired, and hungry. If the above happens to you, flip your ALK over. Amazing what a difference a correctly oriented part makes during an install.
 

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Anybody experienced a clunk after install? I have one, after the car parked for the night and I leave the garage to go to work. The clunk happens for a few miles and not on every bumps and after no more noise. I checked the endlinks and I have good clearance with the tie rods. It mostly happens on the driver side and rarely on the passenger side. This was installed by a professional shop in the same time as coilovers, roll center kit, everything comes from Whiteline (except the coilovers). I'll e-mail them about this, also will talk to the shop but before doing this wanted to know if someone experienced this as I could try to fix the issue.
Thanks.
 
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