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Discussion Starter #1
A little green with alignment specs and was hoping for a little info here. 2017 sti lowered on RCE yellows. Tires are 255 35 18 on 18x9.5 38mm rims. Took my car in for an alignment(laser), mechanic took did it twice and took it out for a test drive in between. He showed me the numbers and was showing that my camber in the front were 1.46 and 1.38 with toe of 0.5 and 0.4. I don't track so the setup i wanted was for street as a DD. He said he couldn't get the numbers closer to 0 toe and a even camber on both sides without bolts or something that would allow him to adjust. Mechanic was a nice guy and took his time explaining and doing the alignment.

What i wanted to know is if those specs are decent enough where i won't have any uneven wear in my tires over time? Or if those numbers are way off and the shop should be able to get to 0 toe with my current set up and a balanced camber on each side without the camber bolts? Just wanted some feedback before i shell out for some bolts and pay to get another alignment done.

thanks in advance
 

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This is a difficult question to answer since some alignment machines read a little bit differently depening on the machine, software, set up, and car. I would say you have to look at the print out sheet. If the alignment angle (camber, caster, toe ect ect ect) is green then its considered to be "within spec" if its in the red, then its out of spec and will lead to increased tire wear and even drivability issues. Lowering the car will make it much more difficult to get the car into spec since alot of suspension travel is removed and the car now sits lower as a result.

So if you have an alignment adjustment thats in the red and wont go into the green or into spec then yes you will need some form of aftermarket adjustment like camber bolts and Lower control arms and stuff like that. Now, if your somewhat in the green but not dead on the perfect zero mark of the scale then i would say its up to you. Drive the car and see how it is, If you start to notice tire wear, then go about fixing it.

Im not one of those stance nation guys whose about the "low life" and all that stuff. I cant really give you a definitive answer as to what will work for you compared to what has worked for others. I hope this helps even a little bit.
 

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Probably normal between lowering and different wheels and oversized tires though I'm not sure why toe changed. Camber is "normal". Why didn't he set them equal? If you want more camber you need a means to get it, I.E. Camber plates. Perhaps bolts woukd do and they are cheap and easy. Depends what you want. Many people correct caster when lowering too though yellows aren't exactly low.

How does it drive? My gues is you could get away with the camber. Not so sure about the toe though. That would bother me and might affect response as well as wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply guys. I rather not have lowered but i was afraid of a big wheel gap with the new rims and tires i put on. Ideally i would like to get the specs to -1.0 on both front wheels with 0 toe. The mechanic said he tried to get it to 0 toe as best he could but the numbers i listed was the best he could do after two attempts. So i'm guessing i should get the camber bolts since the toe is off? I'll have to check the printout again to see if the numbers are in green.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If i was to revert back to stock suspension, do i still need to let the spring "settle" again before alignment?

Also, can someone tell me what the factory sti alignment specs are for a stock car?
 

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Take it to another shop maybe? Never had a shop tell me they couldn't bring it to 0 toe when I had my RCE Yellows on my 14 STI. The drop isn't crazy enough to throw things out of whack that much.
 

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+1, i've run RCE Yellows on my WRX and Swift-R on my STI. While rear camber may go all over the place without Lower Control Arms or something to adjust camber, i've never had issues getting toe go to 0.
 

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I also suggest looking for a new alignment guy, especially if you are taking it to one of the chain tire stores. If you are going back to him, let the alignment guy know that the cars already have camber adjustment bolts installed from the factory. It is not much adjustment, but it is there.

The guy who I used to take my car to for an alignment was so dumb when it came to the camber adjustment, he said he couldn't adjust the camber unless I bought his camber bolts. I then showed him the insert from the tech manual on how to adjust camber for our cars. he goes "oh I didn't know that" even though I told him 5 times that it was there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I ended up returning my car to stock. For me, as I use this car as a DD I found the stock set up much easier to drive around in. I got my alignment done again and these were the numbers I got. The alignment machine wasn't updated with 2017 sti specs so they used the closest which was a 2016 etc. Do you see any issues with the numbers? It was pulling hard to the left prior to this alignment. It's much better now but I still feel it drifting towads the left a bit but I'm unsure if it's the roads or my wider tires(255 35 18).

 

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^looks about right. I'm running 255/35/18 and my alignment specs looks just like yours. If its pulling, try rotating the tires. Thats what did the trick for me :/
 
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