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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 2018 sti, low milage car, recently added hks hipermax s coilovers (installed exactly how they came out of the box) and work emotion zr10 18x9.5, , paint marked bolts before install and made sure everything was the exact same when putting back, took the car to Subaru to get them to align the car, they said they were unable to align it, they got it as close to inspec as they could (said barely out) fast forward 3 months and I have belts showing on the inside of my tires, the steering felt a little goofy after the alignment but nothing to concerning, the top hats on the hipermax s are non adjustable, so the only adjustment was the eccentric bolts, what are my options? Buy adjustable top hats? The rear tires still look fine
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Well I cant say im too knowledgable when it comes to lowered cars but just based on the alignment sheet, front camber and toe are way out. You will need to find a way to bring those adjustments into spec. I think someone else will have to chime in with some input in terms of ways to correct this.

Another thing, why did you bring a car with modded aftermarket suspension (coilovers) to the dealer for an alignment?
 

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This is terrible, I can't imagine you have to drive the car in this condition and wait until a solution is eventually attained. Now that I have seen this I'm starting to get stressed out over the forthcoming installation of my Eibach coilovers / swaybars. Hopefully someone chimes in to provide help. 😓
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took it to the dealership because where I live there aren’t many other good options, the hks coilovers didn’t lower it that much, and I never thought it would end up like this, I’ve took my srt4 on coilovers to dodge for an alignment with zero issues, same with my em1, same with about 6 other cars I’ve owned that were lowered, most are knowledgeable enough to sort my cars out
 

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Others who are more well versed will comment on this but the wear is due to the excessive toe they decided to go with. Why I have no idea.

There's plenty of adjustment in the front to dial that out so whoever did the alignment didn't know what they were doing.

Same with that uneven camber, which again, they could've matched on both sides.
 

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Others who are more well versed will comment on this but the wear is due to the excessive toe they decided to go with. Why I have no idea.

There's plenty of adjustment in the front to dial that out so whoever did the alignment didn't know what they were doing.

Same with that uneven camber, which again, they could've matched on both sides.
That or they didnt even try. Keep in mind, they align cars to factory spec. Once you thow in aftermarket suspension, the machine doesnt know that. It still pulls up the factory specs and you make adjustments to that. But thats every machine, hunter or not. I agree that they should have been able to do a bit of a better job atleast with the front toe. I mean the toe should still be adjustable even though its on aftermarket coils. If you look closely, it looks like it even got worse after. I wonder if they even tried using WIN toe when trying to adjust the front.
 

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That or they didnt even try. Keep in mind, they align cars to factory spec. Once you thow in aftermarket suspension, the machine doesnt know that. It still pulls up the factory specs and you make adjustments to that. But thats every machine, hunter or not. I agree that they should have been able to do a bit of a better job atleast with the front toe. I mean the toe should still be adjustable even though its on aftermarket coils. If you look closely, it looks like it even got worse after. I wonder if they even tried using WIN toe when trying to adjust the front.
You're right. Seems they adjusted the rear left toe and basically nothing else. Maybe tickled the front toe arms and that's it. The machine more or less is a guide, giving recommended specs for each vehicle and leaving the rest up to the tech. Clearly all those red values mean they were nowhere close.

I'd either ask for my money back or someone more competent there to redo the "alignment". Their poor service ruined your tires too so I don't know if you're willing to fight for that as well.

This is terrible, I can't imagine you have to drive the car in this condition and wait until a solution is eventually attained. Now that I have seen this I'm starting to get stressed out over the forthcoming installation of my Eibach coilovers / swaybars. Hopefully someone chimes in to provide help. 😓
This was my fear too when I did my suspension install. Had the Firestone Lifetime Alignment. Went to one location where their "best guy" was clueless. Stressed out I went to a different location and talked to their tech. A lot of head shaking lol but he agreed to dial it in to my requested specs, and he did.

Problem with non-performance shops is they see aftermarket parts and use that as an excuse to not do the job right, or at all. You just have to do some legwork to find the right person. Worth it to pay more at a performance shop to avoid the headache altogether.
 

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That alignment was absolute crap, they flat out ruined your tires for you with no remorse.
Besides going back to ream them out and see if they will give you anything for it, I wouldn't take my car back there.
If you aren't offered anything (like new tires), I'd just leave and take it to a proper shop that knows what they are doing.... and let them know they just lost a customer.

In the front, the camber is high, but they could probably dial it out to approx -1.5 - -1.8 using the stock adjustments and then give you 0 toe and problem solved.
There is absolutely zero excuse for how much toe you have in the front... that's what ruined your tires!
When they say "oh your suspension isn't stock so we can't get a stock spec" front toe isn't something they couldn't adjust.... they just flat out didn't do it.
The fact that the camber isn't even close to symmetrical but is adjustable is just a face-palm.
Camber doesn't kill tires, toe does.
Combining high camber with higher than -0.1 - -0.15 toe is a recipe for disaster.
I run =2.8 camber on the front of my summer car and after 4 years, I've got no unnatural wear cause my toe is 0.
There literally isn't a solution to the toe issue in the front because there isn't a problem to begin with.
The factory adjustments have enough range to get the toe down to an amount that wouldn't kill your tires, or zero (preferred), they just didn't bother doing that.

For the rear, you're going to want lower control arms, and probably toe arms too.
I've got VA suspension on my GR, which is lowered like .25", and even then I'm at the max on my toe adjustment cause the lowering pulls it out of range.
Grabbing some lower control arms will help in that it pulls the camber in to within spec and adding the toe arms will ensure they can achieve the proper toe while at the correct camber.
While over -2.0 camber isn't unreasonable for some cars, I don't think that's what is desirable on a street driven sti in terms of handling, not so much about tire wear.

Straight up tho, cord showing on your front tires isn't because your car "cannot be aligned within spec".
It's because they flat out botched the alignment to the point where that was going to for sure happen.
I can align my toe like that on my stock suspension and achieve the same shit-show in short time.
Also, like your car, I can wind the toe down to zero to avoid it, because the current adjustments CAN do that.
I know you don't know what you're looking at but if I were you I wouldn't have driven home from the shop with numbers like that.
If I was handed that alignment printout as a 'we're all finished' I would have laughed and asked them if they were kidding.
That's a disaster.
That alignment printout isn't a before and after, it's a before and a before with some shop moron fiddling with shit between.
Sorry, this post has made me angry lol.

Final solution, while your rear alignment isn't ideal, the front can be fixed by someone who knows what they are doing. You just tell them "make my front camber symmetrical, and give me 0 toe". What you do need now is new tires 🤦‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the shop told me that was the best they could do, they didn’t make me pay because they couldn’t get it in spec, wasn’t so much I didn’t know what I was looking at, I asked them to just set it to 1.5 camber all around and zero out the toe and they said we already have it off the rack and couldn’t get it to those specs anyway, they didn’t wanna do it plain and simple
 

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So driving on a bad alignment ate up your tires. Your solution is to get an alignment and zero out the toe. The rear has no factory adjustment for camber so if you want -1.5° you'll need rear adjustable lower control arms. They probably started there but couldn't get it any lower so they blew you off.
 

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So the shop told me that was the best they could do, they didn’t make me pay because they couldn’t get it in spec, wasn’t so much I didn’t know what I was looking at, I asked them to just set it to 1.5 camber all around and zero out the toe and they said we already have it off the rack and couldn’t get it to those specs anyway, they didn’t wanna do it plain and simple
Well, going forward, zero-toe in the front is your solution.
You don't really need to fuss about the camber, just make sure it's symmetrical in the front (within .2 degrees like the rear).
You don't absolutely need to buy anything to make the car drivable and mostly safe for your tires, but as I mentioned before, rear lower control arms are a good start to bring the rear camber down from -2.5 if you are chasing a more ideal setup.
Iirc, around -1.5 - -2.0 front camber, 0 front toe, -1.5 rear camber and 0 or very slight toe-in in the rear is ideal.
Slight toe-in in the rear helps with high-speed stability, but I'm talking like -.1 to -.15 degrees here, not -.5+ like current.
 

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Take it somewhere else to do your alignment. Left and right wheels should always have the same alignment, front and back could be different. Your alignment specs arent too crazy for being lowered. Personally, I am running -2.5 camber, 0 toe in the front and -2.0 camber, 0 toe in the rear. This is a more aggressive set-up with 265/35/18 tires and 18x9.5 +38 rims. My wheel setup is a bit wider than typical setups so I put more camber to clear fenders. Adjust accordingly to your setup.

I am not sure why your tires are being shredded because those specs dont necessarily do that, it could be that your toe specs are too high of a degree. Try 0 toe. Also double check your tire PSI, it could be too inflated. Follow the PSI guide on the side on your door, not the max PSI on the side of the tires.

As for adjusting, if your front coilovers do not have camber plates then you should get front and rear camber arms/lower control arms.
 

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Take it somewhere else to do your alignment. Left and right wheels should always have the same alignment, front and back could be different. Your alignment specs arent too crazy for being lowered. Personally, I am running -2.5 camber, 0 toe in the front and -2.0 camber, 0 toe in the rear. This is a more aggressive set-up with 265/35/18 tires and 18x9.5 +38 rims. My wheel setup is a bit wider than typical setups so I put more camber to clear fenders. Adjust accordingly to your setup.

I am not sure why your tires are being shredded because those specs dont necessarily do that, it could be that your toe specs are too high of a degree. Try 0 toe. Also double check your tire PSI, it could be too inflated. Follow the PSI guide on the side on your door, not the max PSI on the side of the tires.

As for adjusting, if your front coilovers do not have camber plates then you should get front and rear camber arms/lower control arms.
Usually over inflated tires would bald/wear in the center of the tread. They would have to be seriously over inflated for a long time for that to happen. As for the door recommendations, those tire pressure specs are for stock oem wheel and tire combo and are usually done cold. Not sure if the OP is using stock wheels and tires.
 

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Take it somewhere else to do your alignment. Left and right wheels should always have the same alignment, front and back could be different. Your alignment specs arent too crazy for being lowered. Personally, I am running -2.5 camber, 0 toe in the front and -2.0 camber, 0 toe in the rear. This is a more aggressive set-up with 265/35/18 tires and 18x9.5 +38 rims. My wheel setup is a bit wider than typical setups so I put more camber to clear fenders. Adjust accordingly to your setup.

I am not sure why your tires are being shredded because those specs dont necessarily do that, it could be that your toe specs are too high of a degree. Try 0 toe. Also double check your tire PSI, it could be too inflated. Follow the PSI guide on the side on your door, not the max PSI on the side of the tires.

As for adjusting, if your front coilovers do not have camber plates then you should get front and rear camber arms/lower control arms.
All the other less than ideal numbers aside, the fact he has .5 degrees of toe on EACH SIDE in the front is 100% why his tires are fucked.
His total toe in the front is 1.1 degree!
I know we're getting microscopic here, but 0.3 degrees is around the most you realistically want in the front.
He's running 330% more toe in the front than the maximum acceptable amount...
 

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So I have a 2018 sti, low milage car, recently added hks hipermax s coilovers (installed exactly how they came out of the box) and work emotion zr10 18x9.5, , paint marked bolts before install and made sure everything was the exact same when putting back, took the car to Subaru to get them to align the car, they said they were unable to align it, they got it as close to inspec as they could (said barely out) fast forward 3 months and I have belts showing on the inside of my tires, the steering felt a little goofy after the alignment but nothing to concerning, the top hats on the hipermax s are non adjustable, so the only adjustment was the eccentric bolts, what are my options? Buy adjustable top hats? The rear tires still look fine View attachment 63923 View attachment 63924 View attachment 63925
 

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You need SPC camber bolts it will help align your front camber. The rears you will also need rear adjustable lower control arms to dial in your rear camber.
 
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