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there is a delay for the gear selector of about 1-2 seconds after you put it in gear moving of course. seems normal from what I am reading.
Thanks so much for this! I can get paranoid about things like this... its a fault of mine.


So far so good with the system. One thing I dont get though is that not all the doors unlock when within the proximty, only the drivers side unlocks. Not sure if thats by design or not, very well could be. Worst case is that I'll still have to use the unlock button on remote when with family.

The trunk release works by holding down the unlock button for 3 seconds. Do wish the car had a a trunk release button on the outside , but it is kind of nice to just have the one unlock button for simplicity.

I'll post more unorganized thoughts and impressions later...
 
Just fyi seems to calculate the gear based on speed and rpm. Push in the clutch and it goes away . Not shifter dependent..
 
One issue I'm having already.

After the car starts and has been going for a few minutes, the immobilizer light comes on in the dash. That is the light that looks like a car with a padlock over it. Things still work like they should, just that the light comes on. There is no exact time when it comes on and varies anywhere from 1 -10 minutes.

I am reaching out to Advanced Keys and installer to see what can be done.
 
Hm interesting - this does not happen when I start the car. Though I did experience a problem where the immobilized kicked it and wouldn't allow the car to start. Ended up throwing a check engine light because of it.

That only happened once in the ~8 or so months I've had the system.

Please keep us updated on what AdvancedKeys responds to you with
 
Hm interesting - this does not happen when I start the car. Though I did experience a problem where the immobilized kicked it and wouldn't allow the car to start. Ended up throwing a check engine light because of it.

That only happened once in the ~8 or so months I've had the system.

Please keep us updated on what AdvancedKeys responds to you with

Where you able to quickly recover from that?
 
Thankfully yes. Car wouldn't start (turn over) for ~15min. But eventually I was able to get it going via a jump start.

The check engine light self corrected after 2 days of driving.
 
Hm interesting - this does not happen when I start the car. Though I did experience a problem where the immobilized kicked it and wouldn't allow the car to start. Ended up throwing a check engine light because of it.

That only happened once in the ~8 or so months I've had the system.

Please keep us updated on what AdvancedKeys responds to you with

Ok, spoke with AdvancedKeys on this and I think there is a reasonable explanation and solution(s). I know you had mentioned needing 2 Bypasses. Idatalink had a new firmware ( few months old) that only required 1 bypass, therefore we only used 1. Advanced keys mentioned that new firmware hadn't been tested yet and there maybe issues caused by that. I'm on the cutting edge....

They said my options are to go back to the older firmware and use 2 bypasses or use a Fortan (??) bypass, that's been proven to work well. I know my installer ( great guy ) had mentioned that he uses sells the Fortan bypasses, but i had purchased everything already. I just might go back and have him swap. The other option would be to use a "Key in a box" method. Don't know exactly what that entails, but he said my installer would know. I have the valet key I'll probably never use, so if that's simpler and cheaper, I might just do that.

I will say that I was very pleased that AdvancedKeys answered the phone and were extremely helpful and seem to know what was going on.
 
Ok, spoke with AdvancedKeys on this and I think there is a reasonable explanation and solution(s). I know you had mentioned needing 2 Bypasses. Idatalink had a new firmware ( few months old) that only required 1 bypass, therefore we only used 1. Advanced keys mentioned that new firmware hadn't been tested yet and there maybe issues caused by that. I'm on the cutting edge....

They said my options are to go back to the older firmware and use 2 bypasses or use a Fortan (??) bypass, that's been proven to work well. I know my installer ( great guy ) had mentioned that he uses sells the Fortan bypasses, but i had purchased everything already. I just might go back and have him swap. The other option would be to use a "Key in a box" method. Don't know exactly what that entails, but he said my installer would know. I have the valet key I'll probably never use, so if that's simpler and cheaper, I might just do that.

I will say that I was very pleased that AdvancedKeys answered the phone and were extremely helpful and seem to know what was going on.



Spoke with installer and he's going to look to see what approach would be best. Either going back to an older firmware and using 2 Idatalink bypasses , or go the Fortan(??) Model. Whatever the case, this will be done soon.

Also, the JDM STi push button I had purchased is not plug and play and needs modifications to work. Got the pinout needed and the installer will build harness or something to get it to work. Both Subispeed and AdvancedKeys said the button will work with modifications.
 
Thankfully yes. Car wouldn't start (turn over) for ~15min. But eventually I was able to get it going via a jump start.

The check engine light self corrected after 2 days of driving.

I just had it reworked using 2 Idatalink bypasses. That took care if the issue where the immobilizer light would come on after a few minutes . So far so good! :)

To recap, you can either go with 2 Idatalink bypasses like you said, or go with the Fortin bypass. Even though there is newer firmware that allows for only 1 Idatalink bypass, do not do it. AdvancedKeys actually recommends using Fortin as they say their system works best with that. Had I known that ahead of time , I'd have gone that rout to begin with. Since we already had the 1 Idatatlink in place, it was easier to just add another as going with the Fortin would have been a complete rewire. Subispeed should really package these with the Fortin byapass or 2 Idatalinks.

Eric, the installer who I'm working with, is going to put together a little harness so we can add in the JDM STi push button. Basically you need to create the adapter with the correct pinout in order to get it to work.

Did you get it to work where all doors unlock automatically and not just the driver side door?
 
Question: Subaru doesn't install the keyless entry for STI models that currently don't have them? if so how much does it cost to have them install?
 
Question: Subaru doesn't install the keyless entry for STI models that currently don't have them? if so how much does it cost to have them install?
Expect to pay 300 to 400 for an install. Its a very big job and will take a good installer most of a day to do it. You'll probably have to call around in your area to find a place that is willing and hopefully has had experience. The place I took it to had done one on another vehicle before ( Mercedes ) that's why I took it there.

The AdvancedKeys system is has a proximity sensor for unlocking the doors, push buttons start, and remote start. This package 1-ups what comes with the factory. So far I'm very pleased with the it.
 
Makes sense. Take pics if u can!

Got it installed!! He couldn't create a harness to connect, so he ended up placing individual connectors in the required spots according to the pin out and then sealing it up.

I must say it not only looks great but feels much better to push. I know that's silly , but the Advancedkeys push button did not feel as good to push in. The STi on the button lights up as well.
Image


Image
 
Very cool. That's too bad he couldn't make the harness. For some reason, your second picture won't show. Is it just another angle of the button?
 
Very cool. That's too bad he couldn't make the harness. For some reason, your second picture won't show. Is it just another angle of the button?
Just me having trouble getting the picture posted.....

Here is another picture of how the individual connectors attach before install. Thing with a harness was that you need to order like 20-30 at a time. Then you aren't sure if the ones you get in will actually fit.


Image
 
Just me having trouble getting the picture posted.....

Here is another picture of how the individual connectors attach before install. Thing with a harness was that you need to order like 20-30 at a time. Then you aren't sure if the ones you get in will actually fit.

Lol, this seems like a viable option regardless. I haven't ordered my kit yet, but would I know which of those wires go where with the instructions? Thanks for the pics.
 
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