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Additional items needed for Sway (F & R) install?

2219 Views 16 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  jaboyd
Hello,

Been researching basic mods for occasional auto-x and spirited driving and decided to focus on suspension over power at this time.

I want to purchase (and install myself) the whiteline front & rear sways.

I'm a bit confused if I need any additional parts: Whiteline Sway Bars (08+ WRX and STI) - Sway Bars than just the front & rear sways.

Additionally, why pick the 22 over the 24 over the 20?

Also, why pick the adjustable? Can't imagine I'll need that?

Any input appreciated,
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Adjustable is good for fine tuning your ride ie compliance over performance or vice versa. The bigger the bar the harsher the ride but IMO to get the proper suspension movement don't go any bigger than 22 ESPECIALLY if you plan on doing coilovers in the future.

Endlinks are necessary along with spacers (spacers are critical with Whiteline). Id look to Kartboy for this.

Also look into the RCE Sways, they're lighter.
Hmm, that gets me thinking. I ordered a 24mm rear Whiteline bar for my 2013 STi after the shop looked it up and said the stock rear for 2013 is a 22mm bar. I initially wanted a 22mm for increased handling and less body roll but nothing extreme. After he said stock was 22mm I opted for the next size up to achieve my desired goals. By you saying that is it safe to assume the stock size for 2013 is not 22mm but something smaller? Guess I can keep it and just put it in the farthest hole instead of the middle as planned. I'd prefer not to have lift around a corner, maybe I should have them return it and get me a 22mm instead.
I went with the 25/22 Eibach sway bars and Kartboy endlinks and I think my ride is beautiful (its my DD) so I wouldn't worry that much... oh, reading comprehension fail, the rear you got is 24... that's... extremely different... I am soft up front and hard rear so if you soft the rear... its probably fine?

As mentioned, you'll not technically need but probably should put on new endlinks.

You'll need additional spacers over and above what come with the endlinks ($5 for a pack, but shipping costs more :/ unless you have a local dealer).

You'll need combination wrenchs, ratcheting box wrenchs, sockets, a ratchet, torque wrench, penetrating oil (WD40, etc), ramps and/or jack stands... a buddy is always nice too ;) Ummm... I think that's all.
As far as the 20, 22, 24 debate, that is going to be personal preference. I'm going through the same process of shopping for sway bars and bushings. Everything that I have come to understand is that with the sti adjustable is a goo idea. It will give you some play based on preference. Stiffer in the back will help with residual understeer that you may unable to correct with just the "driver" mod. I'm looking to go 24 in both the front and rear as I'm not planning on buy coilovers, well not yet anyway.

also on a side note, the thickness is not the only thing that is involved in the rigidity. The shape bar makes a big difference, much like triangles are stronger then squares... so a 22mm aftermarket sway bar can be significantly stiffer then a 22mm OEM. Just something to consider
My experience with other cars has been larger in the rear and smaller in the front, granted these have been FWD lighter cars like the MINI Cooper S. What is the rationale for matching front and rear on the STi? Also, does anyone think that with a 24mm rear bar I'll be creating some significant discomfort for a DD? I don't want to drive a Cadillac but I also don't want to knock any fillings out over a bump.
Sti's come with understeer issues. Thus as far as sways go, it's common to go harder in rear, softer up front.

24mm is generally better suited for a track car. 22mm is better for overall ride quality & stability balance.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4
If you haven't seen this, it is a great place to start: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-susp...3395-swaybars-endlinks-new-2013-revision.html.

It sounds like you have the same purpose for your car as I have for my 2011 STI. I went with 24mm frt and rear bars. I ended up with the stiff setting (24.5mm) in front and softest in the rear (23mm). This gives great cornering but it is does have a slightly stiffer ride on rutted or pot holes. Many DD guys I know run the 22mm frt and rear setup with front stiff (22.5mm) and rear in the middle (22mm) settings and they claim that it is a great compromise for a dd and for poor weather conditions bc it is more forgiving.

Ideally you should get a ride with another subie owner to experience how their aftermkt bars feel. Its a very personal decision...one persons great handling is anothers scary handling.
If you haven't seen this, it is a great place to start: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-susp...3395-swaybars-endlinks-new-2013-revision.html.

It sounds like you have the same purpose for your car as I have for my 2011 STI. I went with 24mm frt and rear bars. I ended up with the stiff setting (24.5mm) in front and softest in the rear (23mm). This gives great cornering but it is does have a slightly stiffer ride on rutted or pot holes. Many DD guys I know run the 22mm frt and rear setup with front stiff (22.5mm) and rear in the middle (22mm) settings and they claim that it is a great compromise for a dd and for poor weather conditions bc it is more forgiving.

Ideally you should get a ride with another subie owner to experience how their aftermkt bars feel. Its a very personal decision...one persons great handling is anothers scary handling.
Thanks for the link! I hadn't seen that one yet.

How are your coilovers with a 24/24 adjustable setup?

I never really put thought in the added effect before. I was planning to do a similar 24/24 coilover setup.
The 24mm frt/rr setup works great with my total package. The key is knowing what you want from your car, how you drive (driving style) and where you drive. In my case I knew that it was primarily a weekend, dry weather, backroad/mtn car so I didn't want a "race car" setup. The Coil-overs were spec'd with moderate spring rates (450# frt, 375# rr) in combination with stiffer 24mm bars to aid cornering wo/compromising ride too much. I also planned/installed bracing and bushings to tighen up and remove flex from the chassis.

This setup really works well for my driving style and for the smooth twisty roads in the area. Since the car is never driven in snow and rarely in the rain, this tighter setup works great.

I see you live in the NE so I'd be inclined to go one size smaller (22mm frt/rr) for your region unless this would only be a summer setup. The reasoning is a large bar will resist side to side roll to an extent that in poor traction envirionments (snow/ice) it will make the car too unstable. Also my recollection is that the roads can get pretty bad during the winter (pot holes, ice buildup) causing too much side to side pitching and a terrible ride.

The reason I'd go 22mm in the snowy regions is that you can get very close to a 24mm setup by running the stiffer settings (22.5 frt, 23mm rr) for the summer and soften it to 21.5 frt and 21mm rear (softest settings) for the winter. The 24mm frt/rr is great if it will work for you.
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I see you're in TN as well so that helps my decision. I've decided to change my order to the 22mm rear bar, I don't want to chance inside lift in an emergency situation. I think the 22 f/r combo will be the best set up for me especially to run with slightly stiffer springs. Now I just have to wait for it to not be back ordered so I can get it installed and go to donuts.
I see you're in TN as well so that helps my decision. I've decided to change my order to the 22mm rear bar, I don't want to chance inside lift in an emergency situation. I think the 22 f/r combo will be the best set up for me especially to run with slightly stiffer springs. Now I just have to wait for it to not be back ordered so I can get it installed and go to donuts.
What frt bar size are you planning on running?

In general I've found that a frt to rear bias on the equivalent bar size of +1.5mm frt vs rear works really well for the street. For example 22.5mm frt, 21mm rear. If you want to autox then a larger rear bar setting will help get rotation and better turn-in....great on the track, not so good on the street, IMO

The biggest issues on STI is that the front MacPhersion struts lose camber under load in the corners so a stiffer than stk bar resists the body roll thus slows the loss of camber settings. A stiffer rear bar aids turn-in and reduces understeer. Since they work together getting a good front to rear balance is the key. Too much at either end significantly alters the handling at the extremes.
I was probably going to go with a 22mm front as well, but I haven't really thought that far out yet.
I went with a 24/24 in the middle setting on mine and love it. Im still using the stock endlinks too. Daily Driver, no auto-x or anything like that
Make sure you get the extra bag of spacers :) and the kartboys are 14mm not 12mm if I remember correctly... save you a trip back to the toolbox ;)

It still makes me warm and fuzzy to drive a month later.
I was probably going to go with a 22mm front as well, but I haven't really thought that far out yet.
If you want to feel what the 24mm bar is like, shoot me a post and I can have you lride in my STI
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