Re: Adam's adventures of a severely abused '04 STi. Engine is out
Great news! Merry Christmas!
Great news! Merry Christmas!
That's kind of difficult to say, it really depends on your experience. In general I would say it is not too hard to pull. Subaru designed the engine wiring harness really well so you just unplug the two connectors by the battery and the two connectors by the boost solenoid and everything else stays on the engine. I made sure to tape labels on all of my connectors, vacuum hoses and fuel lines as well as took pictures of the vacuum line routing once I had the long block on the stand. If you've got enough space, access to the tools and a factory service manual I'd definitely recommend doing it yourself because it is the best way to become familiar with all of the components in your engine bay. I now know where all my sensors, vacuum lines and wiring are where I would have to guess or search the internet before.How hard is it to pull one of these engines and swap everything over by yourself? I might be looking at picking up a full long block that my machine shop can get me for 2800.
Possible issue: crossposting from technical forum.
So I'm at ~850 miles so far and everything up to this point has been great. One minor issue of not being able to boost past 8psi after driving for awhile, but then boosting to 16 PSI after shutting down/restarting, most likely unrelated, I'm thinking the boost solenoid is going but will continue to check that out later.
I changed the oil after first warm up an then again at 500 miles and did an engine break in of 500 miles. I had the heads milled and used the Subaru gasket kit with brand new head bolts and followed the FSM for the torquing procedure.
When I changed the oil at 500 miles everything seemed normal until I spun off the oil filter and what drained out of there seemed very thin and more seemed to come out than usual. I caught some with an empty can and sniffed it but the odor and color did not seem to be off. I wrapped up the oil change like normal and figured I'd keep an eye on it. Oil pressure has been ~90-95 on start up and ~26 at warm idle.
Yesterday I went for a drive, checked the oil afterwords and the oil on the dip stick looks green. I wiped it on a cloth and it also had a green tinge to it. I'm definitely not happy but hoping for the best. The turbo center section was new 2 months before I lost a piston.
My thought process is there can only be mixing in 3 spots: oil cooler, turbo or headgaskets. Am I missing something? The turbo still looked perfect when I had it out of the car. I did not buy a new cooler I just transferred it over to the new block with a gasket. The car does not smoke anything and starts, runs and drives completely fine. I checked the upper coolant reservoir and do not see any signs of oil in the coolant. I will be doing a compression test tonight to rule out the head-gasket and sending a sample to blackstone to verify the oil. Any other diagnostic advise in the meantime? Other than the compression test I will not be running the engine until I confirm what's wrong because I'm paranoid I'm going to wipe out my brand new bearings.
Yeah I've heard of that too. Unfortunately (or fortunately) it is not leaking anything externally, so if there is a problem it is completely internal so I don't think that would work for me. If the compression is good I'll probably just end up replacing the oil cooler. If it's still mixing after that I don't know what I'm going to do.I've heard of this being done on older engines that do not have a bunch of sensors, guys would take a small amount of dye penetrate used for crack detection and put it in there coolant and bring it up to temp. Then drain and inspect the places they though the leak was coming from with a black light. If there is a leak it will glow bright green under the black light. That being said I don't know how it will react with the sensors in the engine. I had a old hot rod builder show me it years ago.
Yeah I've heard of that too. Unfortunately (or fortunately) it is not leaking anything externally, so if there is a problem it is completely internal so I don't think that would work for me. If the compression is good I'll probably just end up replacing the oil cooler. If it's still mixing after that I don't know what I'm going to do.