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Discussion Starter #1
Any suggestions for a stock location 57-65lb turbo?
I likely blew my motor, misfire cylinder 2, and thus will likely be doing a built block and turbo swap + clutch and mounts and hardwired fuel pump. I will know on monday what is wrong and potentially need to order the new parts including turbo then.
Looking to max my cobb 1050 injectors with - 94 octane + methanol. No E85 in Canada, too cold.
I am not 100% certain what lbs/min maxes these injectors. Im thinking 90-95% idc max.
I am not looking to oversize my turbo and reduce spool and for a later upgrade.
I have been considering a FP Green htz and am coming from a cobb 20g.
Not going to rotate, spoolinate, or up injectors/pump due to price. Canadian dollar is too low right now to justify $5000+ extra.

Thanks,

Current Mods:
350whp/350 wtq - "conservative tune" on a low reading mustang
Cobb 20g turbo
Cobb 3 port boost controller
Cobb 1050x injectors
Cobb fuel pressure regulator
Cobb fuel rails
Cobb fuel rail line kit
Cobb shifter bushings
Mishimoto cold air intake
Mishimoto FMIC – Black
AEM Fuel Pump 340 lph
GFB 50/50 Hybrid BOV – 100% Vent
IAG AOS
IAG TGV deletes
IAG 3 mm phenolic spacers
Air pump delete
Perrin E4 ELH
Invidia up pipe
Invidia catted downpipe
Invidia N1 resonated single exit catback
Killer B oil pickup
Snow performance methanol kit
 

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The FP XR Blue looks pretty rad for stock location. We have one for testing but it's a few weeks away from getting on our dyno.. So I have no empirical evidence of how great it is..

We run a custom rotated XR 6557 on our race car.

http://instagr.am/p/B9j1t5uhOsO/
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The FP XR Blue looks pretty rad for stock location. We have one for testing but it's a few weeks away from getting on our dyno.. So I have no empirical evidence of how great it is..

We run a custom rotated XR 6557 on our race car.

http://instagr.am/p/B9j1t5uhOsO/
do you think the blue will have enough juice to max the 1065cc injectors? the ball bearing FPs arent cheap by any means. do you think they are worth the extra 1000 bucks?
 

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Well I can't say for sure until we test it but it looks good on paper for sure. On gas I doubt you'l max out 1050s, ethanol most likely.

I think the value of the XR blue is the Xona compressor and turbine. Ball bearings are nice too.

do you think the blue will have enough juice to max the 1065cc injectors? the ball bearing FPs arent cheap by any means. do you think they are worth the extra 1000 bucks?
 

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This is the point where I recommend not doing a stock-mounted turbo and either going rotated or something like a stock location EFR, which is "rotated" by function. I'm a big fan of EFR turbo's and this would be were I'd go to a 7163, or if you want to move to a bigger frame, 7064 or 7670.
 

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pwn n00bs
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I actually want to do the same thing as you, keep the stock location, but go big.
I was looking at FP red to do the job, but now yamahaSHO mentioned EFR turbo's, maybe take a look at them.
 

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Big turbos in stock location sacrifice real performance. If all you want is a number fine. If you want a great fast and great driving car worry less about turbo size, and more about the best turbo for your use and proper support. You'll end up with less lag, a wider power band and a lots of area under the curve.

Am I saying don't go big turbo? No! Not in any way. Just support it properly If you do - and that start with picking a great turbo and large plumbing . . . Itr is my understanding that a large non-compromised turbo does not fit in the truly stock location. I don't think EFRs count - Aren't they are used with non-stock adapters/manifolds . . .
 

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Exactly - its stock location, but not compatible with stock plumbing. Doesn't that make it similar to rotated in terms of cost? Does anyone else make kits for them besides Full Race?

Little early for me to decide yet. The current plan is to build another in 3 or 4 years :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i decided to wait until spring for my build. 20 grand all in didn't make sense for a mix bin engine with a stock location turbo at only 100 whp gain. 30 grand for a rotated kit with a warrantied iag crate engine and support mods are enough money for me to consider throwing my hikari in the garbage, but, it makes more sense than the 20 grand option and can give me a solid 200 whp gain.
 

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Exactly - its stock location, but not compatible with stock plumbing. Doesn't that make it similar to rotated in terms of cost? Does anyone else make kits for them besides Full Race?

Little early for me to decide yet. The current plan is to build another in 3 or 4 years :)
I don't recall the price, but I know I got a deal nobody can match. That said, it fits my requirement of stepping up to a rotated setup. You won't find any stock mounted turbo to compete directly, in all categories, with a 7163 fitted in there.
 

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agreed

Still it competes with rotated and is similar in cost - partly because if you go that route you'll end up with Fullrace - good stuff, but not inexpensive. I'm planning an EJ build - for 2024 :) If I were doing it today, this would certainly a consideration . . .

60497


60498
 

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Discussion Starter #18
that efr kit makes no sense for anyone. you would still need to buy an intake and an inlet and its only 200 bucks less than the precision turbo ets kit with a tial wastegate included. where are you going to buy a real wastegate on that system?
 

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I disagree... The EFR setups perform great and once you have the uppipe and downpipe for the EFR turbo, all the stock or stock upgraded parts work.

I had a "real wastegate" and hated it. The EFR performed well, wasn't obnoxious, and did away with the stock-mount turbo location limitations.

The EFR wastegate isn't your standard IWG. With a dual-port actuator, it performs fantastically without additional shot and obnoxious sounds.

I've tuned everything you can think of, and I still like these kits. I even have an EFR 7064 on my S2000 using the IWG option.
 
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