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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Well, I had ice racing last weekend in the RS. Massive road closures due to avalanche risks, getting trapped in small towns in freezing rain with no power etc. Sheared off a rear diff bolt, tried to ratchet strap it down to no avail. Snapped off tow hook, destroyed lip and splitter. Pushed the chassis mount brackets back into the tires. Bent all 4 wheels when doing an 8 hour detour and the roads were potholed to shît. So the RS needs to be taken off the road ASAP.

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so now the STi needs to be put on the road ASAP. I got the front bumper installed, and started doing all the mounts. Managed to get the short shifter, lower front and rear bushings installed, and since all the subframe was off I did the transmission mount too. Good stuff!

unfortunately seems like I caught the omicron, so I’m out for a little while.

edit: obviously a video or photo would be useless but the shifter is suuuper tight. I’ll need to do the clutch spotweld fix to really make it feel better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
And she’s on the road! Managed to get the motor mounts / dog bone done. Wow the motor mounts were a horrendous pain in my ass.

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I have another set of wheels on order (gold motegi mr139) because I HATE the fat fives that come on the base STi. Only one issue with my work is, even though I did zap strap the reverse lockout it’s still definitely touching the driveshaft, at speed it creates a brutal clicking/banging noise. There is obviously more NVH with the billet motor/trans mounts. You can really hear the gear whine, but totally livable considering the car feels great.

And the RS’s long term resting place. Man the car is wrecked from that last road trip 💀💀

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Fixed the shifter noise with zap strapping the reverse lockout even more, and it was fine now. Still lots of driveline noise but it’s fine cuz I expected that from poly/billet mounts.

so I’ve had new cars the last few years. Got a focus ST on 2013, upgraded to RS in 2017. Got a Ford Flex for my wife in 2019. Stepping back into an older car is a nice change for me. But I mean I’ve been driving focus’s for almost a decade.

the STi is awesome. It’s not a pristine condition and I am not thrashing it, but it feels great. The chassis grips in corners really well and is only let down by the old tires on it. The combination of the boxer drivetrain and slicktop really keeps the centre of gravity down and I can really feel it. I find for drive mode though it really does need to be in sport sharp. In sport or intelligent the throttle is soooo numb that it’s difficult to drive. But the motor sure revs smoothly.

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and shockingly enough my new wheels showed up! I’ve had a few orders get cancelled so I was expecting it. They didn’t update my shipping or tracking so I had no idea they were even sent. Motegi mr139 17x7.5 et40

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Both the RS and STi are not in top form, so my wife and I brought her flex ice racing instead. I have a fair bit of track and ice experience so I wasn’t worried. But the flex did amazing! 4400lbs, 365hp and awd, it was a beast. Shamed most the stripped out Subaru’s there lol. 14th of 47 overall, 4th for studless. Everyone couldn’t believe it

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Got the car back from having both vvt solenoids replaced, and got the new wheels thrown on. Looks sooooooo much nicer, those stock wheels are awful.

not done obviously, still have to put sideskirts back on and finish cleaning up the front bumper etc, but much better

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Power steering started squealing on cold start up. Fluids full etc, so I tightened the belt. Definitely at the end of adjustment so I’ll order a pair of new belts (might as well do AC at the same time).

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i also started hearing an exhaust leak out the back. Went to inspect and found a large crack in the OEM exhaust near the muffler. Odd thing is it was completely cracked around as if it was cut.

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looking at photo online, there should be a flange right before the muffler which mine is missing, clearly it’s been repaired before. After some poking around I ended up removing it for inspection. Thought I could just tack it back together but the metal is so thin it will need full replacement.

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bonus though, it actually sounds like a Subaru
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
No update is a good update.

been daily driving the STi without any hiccups. Fuel prices are hurting especially here in BC (about $2.50cad/L or 7.30usd/gal) so been trying to keep track of consumption. Over the last few tanks I’ve averaged about 11.5L/100km (about 20.5mpg) which I think is awesome for a 280k km STi.

oil change is due now, and I’ll change the trans fluid as well since when stone cold, sometimes the first shift into 1st gear is a little clicky. I also need a new rear wiper, didn’t realize it was bespoke and none at the auto parts store actually fit. No wonder it looks like the original 😂

I’m very happy that my ownership so far has been trouble free. I’m tearing the focus apart to repair the rear diff, I don’t need my daily driver also giving me issues.

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I gotchu for the wiper!
Just a quick little mod for my winter needs!
Was sick of the crappy Subaru wiper on the rear, and my PIAA blades up front have been absolutely fantastic... so I wanted a PIAA on the rear!
Turns out you can use a wiper arm from an 03 Forester paired to a 16" blade and it's a direct swap.
Ordered the arm, the cover, and the blade this week and install was a breeze!
Literally took 10 mins.
More details on this thread if you decide you want more info for your hatch:
View attachment 65230
It is literally a straight swap and then you can use any conventional 16” blade with the correct adaptor.
Can’t say enough good things about the PIAA super silicone tho.
Never had wipers this good before!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
So the STi is still going strong. Up to 282k km (175k mi) now on the OG engine/clutch/driveline. Also averaging around 10.8L/100km cuz I don’t drive it that hard.

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i hit the 5k km mark so did the first oil change in my ownership. Only realized after that it was 5k of me driving, but I can’t remember offhand when the PO did the last oil change. Was down to just above the L mark on the dipstick, but that’s not bad for such a high km motor. Oil was dark but felt good.

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decided to also do the trans/diff and rear diff fluid at the same time. Both drained quite clear but I’ve always had a bit of a notchy/clicky shifter and it really bugged me. The fluid swap made a big difference and now the trans shifts buttery smooth again.

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So a few months ago (maybe even last summer?) I scored a new primitive racing diff cover for dirt cheap, Never bothered to install it. Last weekend I finally got the 3/16” front skidplate + stinger also for super cheap, so I threw those on as well. Going camping next week so I also ordered the roof rack. Traditionally we just take my focus RS camping, but I’m pretty sure having a Subaru and NOT taking it is grounds for the stockade.

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next on the list is to take apart my short shifter; the oem shift arm has a plastic section, whereas my aftermarket one doesn’t. The reverse lockout collar rattles against the metal and it DRIVES ME NUTS.Now that the shifter feels good again, might as well make it sound good. Then I have to paint the roof basket black again, as over the years it’s faded to an ugly oxidized grey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Big week for the Subaru hah. So I took the shifter apart again, wrapped some electrical tape around the shift arm to stop the reverse lockout collar from rattling against the bare metal. I of course shot the roll-pin across the interior LOL so had to take another day and go get a new one. so quiet now, I should have done this months ago.

I also had a half can of satin black paint so did a quick spray of the roof rack.

then I finally installed my old 22” light bar. The All Weather Motorsports bumper is only designed for a 16” light bar, but the opening is ~22.5” so with a bit of backyard fab work I got it fitting in snug And looks great.

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and that almost wraps up my plans with this Subaru. It is the daily so I don’t want to do anything to hurt reliability. The next thing on the block is a little suspension refresh. These are the original springs/dampers, and I’d like to replace them with new struts, king springs and tophats. But as any GR owner knows, oem style replacement shocks have been NLA for while now…
 

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^ You could swap to VA sti suspension. Its a direct fit. I found its a nice upgrade to the old and worn GR/GV suspension.
+1, been running 2018 VA suspension on my GR for a few years now.
The suspension was actually valved better/ improved for the VA so the suspension for the new cars is an upgrade for us GR's.
It has less dive/squat and is smoother over bumps, but similarly firm.

You've even got a first-gen GR, so the facelift GR suspension is an upgrade with a slight drop, and the VA suspension is one step beyond that.

I picked up a set of struts/springs/tophats on the local classifieds with like 10k(km) on them for 350$(Canadian) and this was suspension from a 2018, in 2019!

Wayyy wayy cheaper than aftermarket if you are just looking for a nice refresh, and then you can put the difference towards something else... like sways!

The VA shocks paired with whiteline's 22mm swaybar set has been perfect for my daily!
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I should have clarified, the king springs that provide a lift over OEM height. VA struts are bolt in, but the shock body overall is about 1” shorter than the GR, so even stock for stock you’re lowering. Wouldn’t make any sense to lower the car when trying to add the king lift springs.

i have a set of kw v3’s that I don’t plan on running, but if I wanted to lower I could go that route. Cusco and Feal make “coilovers in an oem housing” for the GR that could run the king springs, but they’re all over the $1000 mark. I just want some cheapo rock auto oem replacements lol but doesn’t seem to be in the cards

edit: I did get another sick deal though. Motegi traklite with winter tires for $600cad. A little rough (pictured is the worst) but will clean up great.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
@Jay11STI alright so I re-read your recent thread about strut swaps. I decided to look up the part numbers for the king springs and see what applications it’s for. And here’s what I found

  • Subaru Impreza WRX Sti - 2008
  • Subaru Impreza WRX Sti - 2009
  • Subaru Impreza WRX Sti - 2010
  • Subaru Impreza WRX Sti Special Edition - 2010
  • Subaru Impreza WRX STI - 2013
  • Subaru Impreza WRX STI Limited - 2013
  • Subaru Impreza WRX STi (All) - (All Years)
  • Subaru Impreza WRX STi (All) - 2011
  • Subaru Impreza WRX STi (All) - 2012
  • Subaru STI (All) - 2021
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - (All Years)
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2015
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2016
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2017
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2018
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2019
  • Subaru WRX STI (All) - 2020


  • so it seems pairing king springs and 2015+ struts should work. Could always toss in .5” strut top spacers as well for insurance
 

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@320icar Glad it may work out for you. I see it as a cheaper alternative to coilovers or other suspension upgrades. Not sure what VA struts cost brand new but you can usually find a good deal on complete used set. I would recommend looking for 2019 struts and up if you are going the used route. They have improved valving from what ive herd.

I can also verify on Austins comment about the VA suspension when compared to GR/GV. Alot less diving and squatting for sure. No more bottoming out the front bumper on stock suspension for every little bump, dip, or driveway. Definitely stiffer but in a good way, no more bobbing. Much more comfortable on the highway as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Camping went pretty smooth. Chose a closer site so an easier drive for the 2 year old, but around 300km trip. Fits a bit more than the focus does, not by too much but noticeable, Car was filled plus the big boxes on the roof rack.

drive there was uneventful. The drive home was a bit harder. Temps were a fair bit higher, around 32°C (90f) for the highway part of the drive. Those air temps + the fully loaded car + a/c on + cruising at 125kmh (80mph) for 2 hours the car did not like. We noticed the ac stopped blowing cold and that’s when I saw the engine temps at 3/4. Ended up having to back off and turn off the AC to get temps back down to half.
Other than that it was smooth sailing. Still averaged 11./100km

definitely still got that saggy butt tho. Will benefit from new springs and shocks

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Well, I just got the STi to where I was really liking the look. First day back to work and some crackheads I guess tried to steal the roof rack. They got 3 of the 4 brackets off but I guess got spooked. Threw the rack around on the roof :(

ended up with scrapes/dents on the roof, damage to the wing. Scratches on all 4 doors and the new roof racks all fubar. I guess we’ll see what insurance wants to do. The body already is rough so they might not know exactly how to handle it.



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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Well, rough week for the STi. As you know I don’t drive the STi hard, I have a track car for that. This is just my daily.

drove to my friends house today (about 45m away) and it was fine. Sat there on the street for a few hours. Just got in it, started it up just fine. Made it down the hill and CEL came on, cruise light, TCS light and what feels like a misfire, and stuck in sport mode (flashing). No smoke? But it was midnight so we just left it at his house.

doesn’t sound like any kind of rod knock. But clearly something is not right. Fuuuuuuuck…..

Edit: alright so it would seem I am in LIMP mode. From everyone on this forum has said in old posts, all the telltale lights are on, and the famous “oh you’ll know when you’re in limp mode”. Feels like it’s misfiring but might not be, I assume that’s limp mode. Tomorrow I’ll head back and see if I can read the codes, see if there’s a way to clear them and then see what happens
 

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Well, rough week for the STi. As you know I don’t drive the STi hard, I have a track car for that. This is just my daily.

drove to my friends house today (about 45m away) and it was fine. Sat there on the street for a few hours. Just got in it, started it up just fine. Made it down the hill and CEL came on, cruise light, TCS light and what feels like a misfire, and stuck in sport mode (flashing). No smoke? But it was midnight so we just left it at his house.

doesn’t sound like any kind of rod knock. But clearly something is not right. Fuuuuuuuck…..

Edit: alright so it would seem I am in LIMP mode. From everyone on this forum has said in old posts, all the telltale lights are on, and the famous “oh you’ll know when you’re in limp mode”. Feels like it’s misfiring but might not be, I assume that’s limp mode. Tomorrow I’ll head back and see if I can read the codes, see if there’s a way to clear them and then see what happens
AFAIK, any CEL can be cleared by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after a few mins.
If it comes back you know it wasn't just a glitch.

The only lights that don't get cleared this way are SRS related, which is a different light (airbags, seatbelts, etc.)
 
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