IW STi Forum banner

61 - 80 of 134 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
Arrived today and installed: New Style JDM Subaru LED Fog Cover/Bezel: Looks way better than the old style and matches the hexagon pattern on the front grille.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
. thank you so much. is there anything else u needed the install? like the quick connects from subispeed? i appreciate you
You have options on how to install this. You need the harness - plug and play from either subispeed or smy performance. As for functionality it is up to you if you want to run it as drl’s etc. i used the smy performance jdm drl plug and play harness and tapped power from the headlamp sidemarker and turns on when park/tails are on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
. thank you so much. is there anything else u needed the install? like the quick connects from subispeed? i appreciate you
You have options on how to install this. You need the harness - plug and play from either subispeed or smy performance. As for functionality it is up to you if you want to run it as drl’s etc. i used the smy performance jdm drl plug and play harness and tapped power from the headlamp sidemarker and turns on when park/tails are on.
I also used the "plug and play" harness from SMY and was disappointed to find out that it's not truly pnp and requires splicing additional wires via quick taps. Their harness also doesn't include any instructions.

I saw a lot of debate on tapping the sidemarker or the 3 wire plug directly below the headlight adjuster (which is essentially accessory power). But I really wanted the LEDs to sync with the C-lights. I read the FSM and thought I had it figured out, but I was missing one wire. I found that I needed to tap both wires 6 & 7 on the headlight harness connectors. I then ran the grounds to the existing grounding points on the frame.

Passenger headlight:
  • Tap wires 6 (black/blue) & 7 (red/green) and Y the connection to the red power wire on the harness. It's recommended to use diodes on each pin.
  • Run the black ground wire on the harness to the existing ground point on the frame.
Driver side headlight:
  • Tap wires 6 (black/green) & 7 (red/green) and Y the connection to the red power wire on the harness. It's recommend to use diodes on each pin.
  • Run the black ground wire on the harness to the existing ground point on the frame.
Someone else made a super helpful video and wiring schematic that I can't take credit for. Just passing along the information.

YouTube:
2018 WRX STI - JDM S4 Bezel LED Running Light CLight Wiring - YouTube

Wiring schematic:
Shared album - Ryan W - Google Photos

The only downside is that the LEDs still won't dim with the C lights, but that's not a big deal to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
So it looks like nothing will be officially announced in the US for the 2020 model year until next month, unfortunately. I think we know everything about the 2020 already, it’s just a matter of time...

Personally, I’m going to grab a 2019 while they’re still around. I don’t care much for the half-polished wheels on the 2020, and can grab the fog light bezels cheap enough,,,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Good choice. Even the 2021 STI could be the same 310hp.

May I ask your reason for coming from a 2018 RS3? And how they compare after you get some time behind the STI? Always wanted a TTRS but the price diff considerable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Good choice. Even the 2021 STI could be the same 310hp.

May I ask your reason for coming from a 2018 RS3? And how they compare after you get some time behind the STI? Always wanted a TTRS but the price diff considerable.
The RS3 is honestly the absolute perfect car on paper. It's fast as hell, handles pretty well, runs 10's stage 2, etc. It also has one of the best engines, and definitely THE best transmission I've ever used. Absolutely fantastic car in a straight line, better by far than anything else I've owned.

Two problems hold me back from keeping the car - which I actually just traded this weekend for a new car for my wife. First and foremost is Audi. Mods are NOT advisable on this car - at ALL. From the mild - take your car in for anything at all, even a nail in the tire, and they have been instructed to scan your ECU for tunes. If they find anything, your powertrain warranty is officially blacklisted. Granted you can fight that - but it's going to be one hell of a battle, as has been proven my multiple members. Extreme examples included Audi corporate denying warranty claims for transmission shifting issues, because a user had stickier than stock tires on the car. They've gone absolutely mad since they've been paying out for dieselgate.

On the STI, I'm more than happy to take on that liability. Parts are cheap... $3500 for a good built short block if I blow the engine? I'll take on that liability NO problem. $15k for a new 5-cyl in the Audi? That's just the part. Labor is pretty damn high, as you imagine, and vendors quote in the realm of $30k for a built block, installed.

Next on the list is the overall reliability. Electronic systems are REALLY funky on these things - I constantly have electronic nanny sensors alerting, etc. There's a really well-placed IAT sensor in the intake on these engines - directly above the exhaust manifold and turbo. Sit in traffic on a summer day, and get on the gas a bit when it clears up? You're going into limp mode, a solid 50% of the time. It didn't happen to me at all last year after I got the car, but I've had it happen twice so far this year. It sees extreme IATs, and shuts shit down. Just more of Audi's brilliant engineering, honestly, the same stuff we've been seeing since we first got the S4 in the US.

Rattles! The sunroof creaks. CONSTANTLY now. People have had the entire panel replaced 2-3 times, and it still creaks, groans and rattles. Back deck rattles. Door panels rattle. I'm not OK with it in my STI - but again, I'll take on the liability in a sub-$40k car. On a car that MSRP'd over $64k? Not a chance.

Handling of the car is great - but it is NOT on par with the STI. At the end of the day, it handles like a FWD car. Push hard into the corners, regardless of your driving, and it's going to plow. There's a reason it gets left behind on C&D's lightning lap, despite how fast they are. It is NOT a confidence-inspiring car to drive in the twisties, not like the STI is.

Another electronic annoyance is the non-defeatable traction control. You can 'defeat it' by turning it off - but if you manage to get it just right and kick the ass-end out, it will turn it back on for you IMMEDIATELY, while screaming at you with a loud beep.

The car's personality changes with each turn of the key. Sometimes it feels like a rocket. Sometimes it feels slower than my wife's Golf R. It all depends on its mood at the time. It's a weird thing, and I've not heard many people complain about it, but it's definitely a thing. I've started the car up, and on my trip somewhere, it's felt lethargic as hell. Parked, did my thing, drove back 30 minutes later, and it's a monster. No rhyme or reason.

Lastly, gas mileage. I thought I got really bad gas mileage in the STI. I was wrong. My lifetime average on the RS3 was 16.4mpg. I definitely admit that I drive it hard, and I'm willing to accept that - but gas mileage is weird just like power is. I went on a ~35 mile highway drive this weekend - 23mpg average. Did the exact same drive, in the exact same conditions, the very next day? 29mpg. My commute to work - some days I drive it hard and get 16mpg. Some days I drive it hard and get 18mpg. Throw it into comfort some days and I might get 22mpg.... or, in the exact same conditions, with the exact same comfort mode driving, I might get the same 16mpg as when I beat on it. I spent a year trying to figure out if it was something I was doing on my commute, but there were zero variances, as far as I could tell - just the car decided it was more thirsty some days than others.

So, the RS3 left me craving my STI again. Something more analog, where I have a bit more control. Something a bit more rugged, something that I can mod, and something that's made to be driven all the time, instead of only on the autobahn. It's going to take me a bit to get used to how (relatively) slow the STI is, but I welcome it. The STI really is in a class of its own - you can compare it to the S3, Golf R, etc - but none of those cars really are anything like the STI, other than in the general power they produce, and that they have AWD. The STI is, out of 23 cars I've owned, the best driving experience I've had. The most confidence-inspiring, and the most connected I've ever felt to a car, save for maybe one exception on that in the MR2 Spyder.

Would I recommend the RS3 to anyone? Definitely. It was an awesome car! Just be prepared to either accept what the car is out of the box, or the liability of parts that cost literally 5-10x what the same parts on an STI cost. I'm not a 'keep it the way it comes' kind of guy, and I'm just not interested in that kind of financial liability if anything goes wrong, so... Time to go back to my Lego car, the STI. :)

Edit - just to throw one more thought in there - The RS3 always had, for me, an ever-present feeling of a ticking time bomb... Audi is not known for reliability in their top performance cars, so, while they have absolutely improved, it's still an issue. It's caused by the massive over-engineering of every little thing, sometimes with very little gain over the more simplistic part. It's a tough feeling, owning a car like that which can become a liability at any given moment. A bit similar with ringlands/bearings/head gaskets/etc. in the STI, with one huge difference - I can fix that stuff permanently, and still send my kid to college.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
^ Very informative post.

There were some RS3s that were running mid 10s at 8500 ft DA so it was very impressive. they sounded great too.

my buddy loves Audis, and he has an 2013 A4 currently. while its super nice, and comfortable to drive around, everything is expensive as shit for it. its constantly having random sensor issues and some of the most over-engineered parts I've ever seen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
^ Very informative post.

There were some RS3s that were running mid 10s at 8500 ft DA so it was very impressive. they sounded great too.

my buddy loves Audis, and he has an 2013 A4 currently. while its super nice, and comfortable to drive around, everything is expensive as shit for it. its constantly having random sensor issues and some of the most over-engineered parts I've ever seen.
Yeah - EVERYTHING is spendy for that thing, though I fully expected that going in. Development hadn't really gotten there on power for the car yet, so, while I expected $$$ if anything broke, I didn't know how much to really expect, nor was Audi killing warranties like Oprah hands out cars at that point!!

I have no doubt that thing is going to really appreciate in value soon - with 2019 almost certainly being the RS3's last year in the US, the TTRS being dead after 2019, and people running high-10's low-11's with literally nothing but a tune - but I just wasn't willing to hold out. Nice thing is, resale was definitely better than most German stuff, so I only ate about $7k in value to drive it for a year. In the same time period, our Golf R has dropped about $10k from MSRP, so that's damn near 25% in a year.

To contrast, when I traded in my 2018 STI for the Golf R for my wife, I actually got about $400 MORE than I paid for it. :)

In my opinion, I really shouldn't be able to compare my $60k+ German performance car with my sub-$40k Japanese car.... but I can, and the Japanese car comes out favorably to me in most of the comparisons. That says it all, I think. The STI has always been the car in my heart, or my 'spirit car' as my wife says, so I'm done fighting it. They're CERTAINLY not flawless, but I can't find a damn thing, at any price point, that really is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
In the same time period, our Golf R has dropped about $10k from MSRP, so that's damn near 25% in a year.

To contrast, when I traded in my 2018 STI for the Golf R for my wife, I actually got about $400 MORE than I paid for it. :)
According to KBB, the Golf R has a better resale value than the STi :notsure:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
Where I'm at, the values are

2018 STI limited 10000 miles

Trade-in Range
$30,453 - $33,566
Trade-in Value $32,010

2018 Golf R
Trade-in Range
$34,658 - $37,021
Trade-in value $35,840

so they seem to hold their value more
 
61 - 80 of 134 Posts
Top