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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
did i miss something? 350whp? I thought you were staying stock turbo, did you decide to upgrade it?

and 7k from the shop? is this for the entire parts list installed, or just part of it?

so far as how long it'll last, that can vary. the type RA block found in the newer ones (like yours) are known to be a bit stronger. but it's impossible to say it'll last exactly x miles. keep up with maintenance, dont get power hungry, and it'll last quite some time.
No, you didn't miss anything. I think that was me trying to get my bearings with what each modification can realistically produce, in terms of returns. I am going to stay stock turbo, and the parts listed about I think could get 320 wheel. At least I think.

The 7k is for the shop to install, tune, and parts.

I appreciate it, that is good to hear. I had a question about oil consumption. I usually consume about 1.1 qt (High to low mark on the dip stick) per 3k miles. I was wondering if that was your experience as well? Or if you had information on the subject.
 

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No, you didn't miss anything. I think that was me trying to get my bearings with what each modification can realistically produce, in terms of returns. I am going to stay stock turbo, and the parts listed about I think could get 320 wheel. At least I think.

The 7k is for the shop to install, tune, and parts.

I appreciate it, that is good to hear. I had a question about oil consumption. I usually consume about 1.1 qt (High to low mark on the dip stick) per 3k miles. I was wondering if that was your experience as well? Or if you had information on the subject.
After I blew my first motor. I now change my oil every 2k or every track day. Whichever comes first. So idk how much is consumed per 3k miles. That said. I don’t get low at all currently going to 2k miles. I don’t remember consuming that much over 3k before I built my motor either.

and yeah. I’d guess 320tq. Maybe 290-300whp based on the mods listed. But don’t get too caught up on numbers. The car will still be a last to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
After I blew my first motor. I now change my oil every 2k or every track day. Whichever comes first. So idk how much is consumed per 3k miles. That said. I don’t get low at all currently going to 2k miles. I don’t remember consuming that much over 3k before I built my motor either.

and yeah. I’d guess 320tq. Maybe 290-300whp based on the mods listed. But don’t get too caught up on numbers. The car will still be a last to drive.
Sorry to hear that happened, but thankyou for sharing. I have heard that this exact problem has happened to a few people and I will make the time to check. Did you ever increase your oil weight to 5W-40? The shop I am working with recommended it over the 5W-30. I was unsure if that was other individuals experiences.

Also the car was on the dyno, at 17 pounds it made 300/317 before the clutch didn't want to play anymore. Going to be replacing it with a XKSU24001-1AX from X-clutch. I figure the rated torque of 510 would be sufficient if I wanted to go a bit higher in the future. Have you had any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I am running a similar set-up to what you listed but with a bit more, here and there. You can check out the analysis here: Dynosheet from my Subaru STI 2020 (e85, TBE, etc...) but i am running e85/flex and not pump gas.

On pump gas and your listed parts, I would guess it would make around 295-305whp. Its hard when talking about exact WHP numbers because if you're number chasing, it varies drastically and a number output isn't reliable. It doesn't really matter what a dyno says because it changes all the time, its just a reference point.
Thanks for the information, how has the car been holding up with the modifications that you have made? (miles driven, driving style, any things to look out for)

Car was on the dyno, at 17 pounds it made 300/317 before the clutch didn't want to play anymore. Going to be replacing it with a XKSU24001-1AX from X-clutch. Then finish out the tune after the break in period.
 

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Sorry to hear that happened, but thankyou for sharing. I have heard that this exact problem has happened to a few people and I will make the time to check. Did you ever increase your oil weight to 5W-40? The shop I am working with recommended it over the 5W-30. I was unsure if that was other individuals experiences.

Also the car was on the dyno, at 17 pounds it made 300/317 before the clutch didn't want to play anymore. Going to be replacing it with a XKSU24001-1AX from X-clutch. I figure the rated torque of 510 would be sufficient if I wanted to go a bit higher in the future. Have you had any experience with this?
I mean. It was my fault the motor went, nothing to be sorry about. I got power hungry lol.

that said. I ALWAYS ran 5w40, as did most of not all of the people I knew. It’s a better oil for these motors. And when iag and multiple other shops suggest it. I say run it.

so far as that clutch, never heard of the brand. I have an act clutch in mine. And haveseen good luck with excedy and comp clutches. I’m sure there are other good ones. Just none I have personal experience with
 

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Thanks for the information, how has the car been holding up with the modifications that you have made? (miles driven, driving style, any things to look out for)

Car was on the dyno, at 17 pounds it made 300/317 before the clutch didn't want to play anymore. Going to be replacing it with a XKSU24001-1AX from X-clutch. Then finish out the tune after the break in period.
It runs pretty flawlessly. Its been around 5k miles. Nothing really to look out for, besides the usual driving habits. Dont floor it when below 3k rpm. Dont boost hard (above 4-5psi) when car isnt warmed up.

Kinda weird that your OEM clutch cant handle about 300hp/300tq. My OEM clutch still holds 350hp/400tq and I run max 22psi. The only time it semi-slips is when the clutch is cold, then it slips and snaps in kinda rough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It runs pretty flawlessly. Its been around 5k miles. Nothing really to look out for, besides the usual driving habits. Dont floor it when below 3k rpm. Dont boost hard (above 4-5psi) when car isnt warmed up.

Kinda weird that your OEM clutch cant handle about 300hp/300tq. My OEM clutch still holds 350hp/400tq and I run max 22psi. The only time it semi-slips is when the clutch is cold, then it slips and snaps in kinda rough.
Glad to hear that the car is doing well. I appreciate the advice.

Yeah, I am curious why as well. I have a few theories; I suck at driving lol, I may have not broken it in appropriately, or the 23k miles of commuting in DC traffic had worn out the pressure plate. I guess ill see when the clutch disc comes out and its either broken in, glazed, or gone.
 

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To be fair, you are following a good build path. Refreshing to see beginners doing some research instead of "I installed my downpipe and injectors without a tune and now my engine blew up! SUBARU SUCKS!". Dont worry about what the dyno will say. I installed all my parts with the intent of making the car feel nice to drive. When installing a less restrictive downpipe, I was thinking "this will make the feel more smooth and less congested/lugged when accelerating", not "this will get me 10hp!". What you want is great drivability which in turn makes you quicker. Horsepower and numbers are just an aftermath of performance.

Dont forget suspension parts! That changes the car better than power enhancement parts! No point in more power if you cant handle it or plant it to the ground.

You ever wonder why pros enjoy low power races more than high power races? Because the cars are quick, quick ≠ fast. You are using the full range of the car 100% of the time and the suspension tuning is fine tuned to get the car to keep at maximum. Anyways, youre going to have a blast driving the car, enjoy the journey!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
To be fair, you are following a good build path. Refreshing to see beginners doing some research instead of "I installed my downpipe and injectors without a tune and now my engine blew up! SUBARU SUCKS!". Dont worry about what the dyno will say. I installed all my parts with the intent of making the car feel nice to drive. When installing a less restrictive downpipe, I was thinking "this will make the feel more smooth and less congested/lugged when accelerating", not "this will get me 10hp!". What you want is great drivability which in turn makes you quicker. Horsepower and numbers are just an aftermath of performance.

Dont forget suspension parts! That changes the car better than power enhancement parts! No point in more power if you cant handle it or plant it to the ground.

You ever wonder why pros enjoy low power races more than high power races? Because the cars are quick, quick ≠ fast. You are using the full range of the car 100% of the time and the suspension tuning is fine tuned to get the car to keep at maximum. Anyways, youre going to have a blast driving the car, enjoy the journey!
Turns out the entire clutch looked heat soaked (everything was blue), they think the pressure plate began to not apply enough force and overtime it started to glaze the pads when it was engaged. It kind of explains the dyno graph we got back, it was indicative of slipping and catching over and over in a rapid fashion. So this weekend I have about 500 miles to put on this thing to get the tune finished on the first.

What type of suspension do you think? I was always under the impression the STI suspension was quite good, for a mass production vehicle.
 

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That is indeed an extremely jittery graph. If youre looking for a great power/"reliable" build, you should look up Gears & Gasoline STI build, it is also built by Andrewtech. Great series (3 parts) and channel. He basically built the gold standard of reliable 500whp daily.

The suspension is quite rough, but it is good... for production. Did you know your car can be smooth, comfortable, and stiff at the same time?? I have installed whiteline sway bars, endlinks. FA500 coils (9k) and some little bits here and there. The car is "soft" and doesnt flex at all. It feels so great in cornering and overall drivability. There are many things that can make you quicker and faster, not just pure horsepower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
That is indeed an extremely jittery graph. If youre looking for a great power/"reliable" build, you should look up Gears & Gasoline STI build, it is also built by Andrewtech. Great series (3 parts) and channel. He basically built the gold standard of reliable 500whp daily.

The suspension is quite rough, but it is good... for production. Did you know your car can be smooth, comfortable, and stiff at the same time?? I have installed whiteline sway bars, endlinks. FA500 coils (9k) and some little bits here and there. The car is "soft" and doesnt flex at all. It feels so great in cornering and overall drivability. There are many things that can make you quicker and faster, not just pure horsepower.
Oh, I had a question for you, with the new green speed update, have you heard of anyone getting the "p0420" code that has the GESI catted DP. It sounds like it has happened to others but I am curious why I haven't seen it pop up yet.
 

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Oh, I had a question for you, with the new green speed update, have you heard of anyone getting the "p0420" code that has the GESI catted DP. It sounds like it has happened to others but I am curious why I haven't seen it pop up yet.
I think you only get those errors if you recently tuned the car. My car was tuned a while ago and I dont keep my AP plugged in. So there is no chance that any updates get into my ECU. My ECU is running the map that was original tuned so I dont have any errors.
 

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Oh, I had a question for you, with the new green speed update, have you heard of anyone getting the "p0420" code that has the GESI catted DP. It sounds like it has happened to others but I am curious why I haven't seen it pop up yet.
if you were tuned BEFORE the grenspeed update, and havent adjusted your tune at all, then you are basically "grandfathered" into having that tune. if you were to get new parts and retune, you would likely see that code pop up. (although i have heard that 02 scaling fixes this on the 19+ STi's)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
if you were tuned BEFORE the grenspeed update, and havent adjusted your tune at all, then you are basically "grandfathered" into having that tune. if you were to get new parts and retune, you would likely see that code pop up. (although i have heard that 02 scaling fixes this on the 19+ STi's)
Finished up the tune today, car made 307/335
Slope Rectangle Font Line Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
^^that.

stock turbo on pump, assuming dynojet, sae correction, sea level aka my local dyno where a stock sti reads about 240whp, a full bolt on stock turbo car on pump gas would make 310whp, i think the highest we saw was 316whp. typically they are around 330-340wtq. on ethanol, we have seen 340whp and 390-400wtq, but keep in mind, that is where the stock turbo spikes, it wont hold that to redline on either fuel type.

based on your mod list and 93 octane, i'd guess you'd put down 290-300whp, and 315-325wtq (again, assuming dynojet, sae, sea level, moderate temps)
^^that.

stock turbo on pump, assuming dynojet, sae correction, sea level aka my local dyno where a stock sti reads about 240whp, a full bolt on stock turbo car on pump gas would make 310whp, i think the highest we saw was 316whp. typically they are around 330-340wtq. on ethanol, we have seen 340whp and 390-400wtq, but keep in mind, that is where the stock turbo spikes, it wont hold that to redline on either fuel type.

based on your mod list and 93 octane, i'd guess you'd put down 290-300whp, and 315-325wtq (again, assuming dynojet, sae, sea level, moderate temps)
Yep you were right.
Slope Rectangle Font Line Parallel
 

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The traces are all tangled up and I'm confused. Perhaps I am reading this wrong. Did the tune end up falling off very fast - to be lower than stock?
Why do the torque and power have the same general curve. Torque should fall faster than power . . . because power is TxRPM and RPM is rising.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
The traces are all tangled up and I'm confused. Perhaps I am reading this wrong. Did the tune end up falling off very fast - to be lower than stock?
Why do the torque and power have the same general curve. Torque should fall faster than power . . . because power is TxRPM and RPM is rising.
I had to replace the clutch, so this is the new graph with the previous and current dyno. Blue lines are the old numbers and the red lines are the new numbers after the clutch was replaced.
 
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