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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am quite new to this scene, I purchased a 2019 STI in 2019, currently 24k, and has been doing well, recently I have wanted to get a bit more out of the car to "scratch that itch" so to say. I have been reading around quite a bit and there are many things being thrown around as what to do and how to do it. As far as that goes I am having a hard time discerning what this engine is capable of, in terms of "Reliable" (being able to see an additional 70k -100k miles out of the motor). I have the following list of parts that I think will get me to about 300ish wheel more or less, which is the goal. (seen below). Additionally a tentative protune scheduled to do the ECU remapping. Mostly just wanting to get some information before I make a decision, thankyou in advance for your replies.

If you guys/gals would give your experience with the reliability of the stock motor (2019+, RA motor) that's making this power level I would appreciate it.

PARTS:
-Cobb Accessport V3
COBB Tuning SF Intake Black and Airbox
Stage 1+ Kit

-DeatschWerks DW65c Series Fuel Pump w/ Install Kit

-Injector Dynamics ID1050X Top Feed Fuel Injectors

-Cobb Fuel Pressure Regulator

-Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS

-COBB GESI catted down pipe

-IAG AOS

Potential parts: (depending on responses)

-IAG Equal length headers and up pipe

-Cylinder 4 cooling mod (cant really figure out if you move the headers if you need the cylinder 4 cooling mod)
 

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Hey guys I had a question if you guys wouldn't mind.

I am quite new to this scene, I purchased a 2019 STI in 2019, currently 24k, and has been doing well, recently I have wanted to get a bit more out of the car to "scratch that itch" so to say. I have been reading around quite a bit and there are many things being thrown around as what to do and how to do it. As far as that goes I am having a hard time discerning what this engine is capable of, in terms of "Reliable" (being able to see an additional 70k -100k miles out of the motor). I have the following list of parts that I think will get me to about 300ish wheel more or less, which is the goal. (seen below). Additionally a tentative protune scheduled to do the ECU remapping. Mostly just wanting to get some information before I make a decision, thankyou in advance for your replies.

If you guys/gals would give your experience, or knowledge, with the reliability of the stock motor (2019+, RA motor) that's making this power level I would appreciate it.

PARTS:
-Cobb Accessport V3
COBB Tuning SF Intake Black and Airbox
Stage 1+ Kit

-DeatschWerks DW65c Series Fuel Pump w/ Install Kit

-Injector Dynamics ID1050X Top Feed Fuel Injectors

-Cobb Fuel Pressure Regulator

-Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS

-COBB GESI catted down pipe

-IAG AOS

Potential parts: (depending on responses)

-IAG Equal length headers and up pipe

-Cylinder 4 cooling mod (cant really figure out if you move the headers if you need the cylinder 4 cooling mod)
300whp on what type of dyno?

skip the accessport, you will have a permanent CEL on the 19+ STi's because of the new cobb greenspeed updates with a downpipe, even catted. i'd personally go opensource (although i have read one thread on here that a tuner messing with 02 scaling or something got the cel to go away).

skip anything Deatschwerks, many well known tuners wont touch cars that have their parts because their quality control is or at least used to be crap.

the cobb FPR is not necessary if you are only shooting for 300whp, but it wont hurt to have.

equal length is smart, IAG is basically a tomei knock off, which is a quality piece lol. if you can afford killer b, it's a better setup, if not the IAG is not bad by any means.

add in a killer b oil pickup and baffle combo

double check with your tuner, or ask @yamahaSHO on here, i'm pretty sure you dont need ID1050s on a stock turbo. i'm pretty sure the stock system is enough to make 300whp. granted i guess that does depend on the dyno/altitude/etc.

i'd personally add a cat back as well, although that's not necessary.

edit: i'd also make your own thread on here, so you can have a discussion based solely on your car.
 

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I have the Cobb 1 plus kit on my 2020 STI. It definitely helped the mid range torque out a bunch along with the increased rev limiter, FFS, etc. Motor if run with proper octane gas, maintained, no money shift should last a while. 😂😜
 

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Just my opinion, as someone with a 2020 STI who did the "stage 1 - 2" - 20g progression. Save your money and stick with stock downpipe until you decide on more than 300 wheel. The difference between Cobb stage 1 OTS tune and my custom JR tune after adding the downpipe was negligible. The first thing I said after I drove it was that it feels exactly the same as the Cobb OTS tune. Not worth the investment at all.

Combine that with CEL issues with catted downpipes that I'm still trying to rectify, it's just not worth it to me now that I've gone through it. If you really want to splurge, get the Cobb SF intake and Accessport and be done with it, or get a tune on top for a custom calibrated tune until you're serious about more power. Cobb stage 1 tune was the biggest difference that I noticed until I got a bigger turbo. And the benefit is that there's no installation labor involved, you can do it in your garage and be running within an hour. All the extra parts are just fluff and added cost/headache at this stage.
 

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Save your money and stick with stock downpipe until you decide on more than 300 wheel. The difference between Cobb stage 1 OTS tune and my custom JR tune after adding the downpipe was negligible. The first thing I said after I drove it was that it feels exactly the same as the Cobb OTS tune. Not worth the investment at all.
I doubt I am needed to comment on this . . .


Combine that with CEL issues with catted downpipes that I'm still trying to rectify, it's just not worth it
There is almost no reason whatsoever to go catless at under 350AWHP . . .
 

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To the OP, I would add ELH, up pipe and turbo inlet. Basically get all the main power adders in there now so you can get it all protuned together. I would also recommend throwing in a fresh set of one step colder spark plugs prior to getting on the dyno. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just my opinion, as someone with a 2020 STI who did the "stage 1 - 2" - 20g progression. Save your money and stick with stock downpipe until you decide on more than 300 wheel. The difference between Cobb stage 1 OTS tune and my custom JR tune after adding the downpipe was negligible. The first thing I said after I drove it was that it feels exactly the same as the Cobb OTS tune. Not worth the investment at all.

Combine that with CEL issues with catted downpipes that I'm still trying to rectify, it's just not worth it to me now that I've gone through it. If you really want to splurge, get the Cobb SF intake and Accessport and be done with it, or get a tune on top for a custom calibrated tune until you're serious about more power. Cobb stage 1 tune was the biggest difference that I noticed until I got a bigger turbo. And the benefit is that there's no installation labor involved, you can do it in your garage and be running within an hour. All the extra parts are just fluff and added cost/headache at this stage.

I appreciate your feed back, I was thinking of shooting for a bit more power after doing some more research. I think with the parts above would get me to around the 340ish wheel. Is that unusual to expect with the modifications above?

Also I have asked around and with the GESI catted down pipe you will not end up with a check engine light. Or have I been given the run around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To the OP, I would add ELH, up pipe and turbo inlet. Basically get all the main power adders in there now so you can get it all protuned together. I would also recommend throwing in a fresh set of one step colder spark plugs prior to getting on the dyno. Just my 2 cents.
Thankyou, I did end up deciding to getting the killer B ELH's with all the stuff above. The plugs are a good thought and required apparently for pro-tuning at the place im going.

I was doing some looking around and similar setups are getting around 330 - 350 wheel. Do you feel that may be something not to expect from this?

As far as the CEL, I was told that you wouldn't have this problem with a catted cobb down pipe, do you happen to know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also, I am just curious if this is appropriate. The shop I am working with quoted just under 7k for all this work including the dyno tuning. Is that a fair rate?
 

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I appreciate your feed back, I was thinking of shooting for a bit more power after doing some more research. I think with the parts above would get me to around the 340ish wheel. Is that unusual to expect with the modifications above?

Also I have asked around and with the GESI catted down pipe you will not end up with a check engine light. Or have I been given the run around?
Its possible, but its really going to depend on the dyno and the tuner. Each dyno and tuner work differently. Since your car is a later VA chassis car with the 2019 and up engine, you may be able to get a little more power than the previous generations like the GR/GV with the same mods. It wouldnt be the first time ive herd a stock turbo VA sti with bolt ons making around that power level nowadays. Over 300whp for sure, but 350 may be a bit ambitious. Again, this will all depend on the tuner, dyno, and also the climate.

As for the downpipe question, well who knows to be honest. There are so many different responses from people on that same issue. Some have reported CEL right away. Others have reported no CEL. Some have reported CEL after a couple of hundred miles. Some have had luck with the defouler for X amount of miles, while others have had absolutly no luck.

There have been some reports of tuners being able to scale of the oxygen sensor values and its helped. Not sure how long that will be good for, or even how much can be done in terms of the tuners hand. So to be honest, nobody knows. There is no perfect fix at this time.

Not sure what part of the country you're in but one thing is for sure, id highly recommend going with a certified pro tuner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its possible, but its really going to depend on the dyno and the tuner. Each dyno and tuner work differently. Since your car is a later VA chassis car with the 2019 and up engine, you may be able to get a little more power than the previous generations like the GR/GV with the same mods. It wouldnt be the first time ive herd a stock turbo VA sti with bolt ons making around that power level nowadays. Over 300whp for sure, but 350 may be a bit ambitious. Again, this will all depend on the tuner, dyno, and also the climate.

As for the downpipe question, well who knows to be honest. There are so many different responses from people on that same issue. Some have reported CEL right away. Others have reported no CEL. Some have reported CEL after a couple of hundred miles. Some have had luck with the defouler for X amount of miles, while others have had absolutly no luck.

There have been some reports of tuners being able to scale of the oxygen sensor values and its helped. Not sure how long that will be good for, or even how much can be done in terms of the tuners hand. So to be honest, nobody knows. There is no perfect fix at this time.

Not sure what part of the country you're in but one thing is for sure, id highly recommend going with a certified pro tuner.
I really appreciate your response, I am actually going with andrewtech automotive in Gaithersburg MD, IAG recommended them since they are no longer performing that service. Do you have any recommendations? The reason I am going with them is mostly base on the IAG's reputation and not much else.
 

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I really appreciate your response, I am actually going with andrewtech automotive in Gaithersburg MD, IAG recommended them since they are no longer performing that service. Do you have any recommendations? The reason I am going with them is mostly base on the IAG's reputation and not much else.
What services is IAG not offering? What like dyno tuning?

Ive herd good things about Andrewtech. If thats you're area, then it makes sense to go there. Other than IAG and Andrewtech, I dont know of any other well known subaru tuner shop in MD. If you were in my area of northern NJ, then id have plenty of recommendations lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What services is IAG not offering? What like dyno tuning?

Ive herd good things about Andrewtech. If thats you're area, then it makes sense to go there. Other than IAG and Andrewtech, I dont know of any other well known subaru tuner shop in MD. If you were in my area of northern NJ, then id have plenty of recommendations lol.

Yeah, I gave them a call and they told me that they did not offer it anymore. The message I received is below.

"Thanks for reaching out to us. Unfortunately, we do not do service or tuning work at our facility any longer as we are focusing strictly on the manufacturing side. If you are local, I would recommend reaching out to Andrewtech Automotive. They are dealers of ours, have been through our certified engine installers program, specialize in Subaru, and do tuning!"

What do you think of the cost? Just under 7k seems a bit steep but I am not too familiar with this part of the automotive world.

To be honest with the changes that are happening I am wonder what alterations I need to make to my maintenance habits, in terms of regular items to check, like oil change intervals, ect. I imagine it wouldn't change much but I have been surprised before.
 

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Yeah, I gave them a call and they told me that they did not offer it anymore. The message I received is below.

"Thanks for reaching out to us. Unfortunately, we do not do service or tuning work at our facility any longer as we are focusing strictly on the manufacturing side. If you are local, I would recommend reaching out to Andrewtech Automotive. They are dealers of ours, have been through our certified engine installers program, specialize in Subaru, and do tuning!"

What do you think of the cost? Just under 7k seems a bit steep but I am not too familiar with this part of the automotive world.

To be honest with the changes that are happening I am wonder what alterations I need to make to my maintenance habits, in terms of regular items to check, like oil change intervals, ect. I imagine it wouldn't change much but I have been surprised before.
The cost of everything has gone up. That includes labor rates. The cost of aftermarket parts have definitely gone up. I wouldnt be surprised if you are paying more than what it would have cost 2 years ago. I cant comment too much on the price to be honest. Ive done most of the work on my car myself over the years. One thing I can say, things definitely aren't priced like they were when I was modding 9 years ago LoL.

For maintenance, its a good idea to keep on top of it. It cant hurt to do things early. Ive always kept my oil change intervals (OCI) to 3K and recommend it all. Going a little more is fine when using quality oil. I would like to add that 1 thing that is almost always over looked on these cars is the PCV valve. I think the service interval is around 25-30K or something like that. Whatever the book says, not sure if its changed over the years. I would recommend changing it sooner than never or atleast at around that interval. It would also be a good idea to clear out the vent lines on the TMIC.
Time and time again I see PCV valve go untouched for years until it finally causes a problem and scares everyone. Hell, it even happend to me once lol.

Same goes for spark plugs, Id keep on top of spark plugs as well. Especially with one step colder spark plugs. They usually dont tend to last as long as the oem plugs. This will also depend on climate and driving conditions as well. I made a thread on here somewhere about one step colder plugs and my experience with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The cost of everything has gone up. That includes labor rates. The cost of aftermarket parts have definitely gone up. I wouldnt be surprised if you are paying more than what it would have cost 2 years ago. I cant comment too much on the price to be honest. Ive done most of the work on my car myself over the years. One thing I can say, things definitely aren't priced like they were when I was modding 9 years ago LoL.

For maintenance, its a good idea to keep on top of it. It cant hurt to do things early. Ive always kept my oil change intervals (OCI) to 3K and recommend it all. Going a little more is fine when using quality oil. I would like to add that 1 thing that is almost always over looked on these cars is the PCV valve. I think the service interval is around 25-30K or something like that. Whatever the book says, not sure if its changed over the years. I would recommend changing it sooner than never or atleast at around that interval. It would also be a good idea to clear out the vent lines on the TMIC.
Time and time again I see PCV valve go untouched for years until it finally causes a problem and scares everyone. Hell, it even happend to me once lol.

Same goes for spark plugs, Id keep on top of spark plugs as well. Especially with one step colder spark plugs. They usually dont tend to last as long as the oem plugs. This will also depend on climate and driving conditions as well. I made a thread on here somewhere about one step colder plugs and my experience with them.
I took a look at the thread you mentioned, I really appreciate the heads up. I don't want to be surprised with an engine failure because of something as dumb as missing a simple maintenance item.

I am starting to feel like a broken record with literally everyone talking a bout reliability of their stock blocks. But I am having trouble finding much on the 2019 plus block longevity at a 350ish whp level. Most of what I find is the initial "look what it does" but I am curious if you have information of people getting increased mileage out of these motors after the changes. I want to have a time line as to when to begin to consider a rebuild, rather than be surprised by a "fun" situation in the future.
 

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I took a look at the thread you mentioned, I really appreciate the heads up. I don't want to be surprised with an engine failure because of something as dumb as missing a simple maintenance item.

I am starting to feel like a broken record with literally everyone talking a bout reliability of their stock blocks. But I am having trouble finding much on the 2019 plus block longevity at a 350ish whp level. Most of what I find is the initial "look what it does" but I am curious if you have information of people getting increased mileage out of these motors after the changes. I want to have a time line as to when to begin to consider a rebuild, rather than be surprised by a "fun" situation in the future.
did i miss something? 350whp? I thought you were staying stock turbo, did you decide to upgrade it?

and 7k from the shop? is this for the entire parts list installed, or just part of it?

so far as how long it'll last, that can vary. the type RA block found in the newer ones (like yours) are known to be a bit stronger. but it's impossible to say it'll last exactly x miles. keep up with maintenance, dont get power hungry, and it'll last quite some time.
 

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Your car will not get to 350 AWHP on pump with a stock turbo. Period. Ohhh, sure you might get a dyno sheet that indicates it does. What it means is that the same cars claiming less power will be quicker and faster . . . even if it gets to 330, it won't even be in the same league as a car with a bigger turbo and claiming only a bit more than 350.

Sorry to be realistic . . .
 
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^^that.

stock turbo on pump, assuming dynojet, sae correction, sea level aka my local dyno where a stock sti reads about 240whp, a full bolt on stock turbo car on pump gas would make 310whp, i think the highest we saw was 316whp. typically they are around 330-340wtq. on ethanol, we have seen 340whp and 390-400wtq, but keep in mind, that is where the stock turbo spikes, it wont hold that to redline on either fuel type.

based on your mod list and 93 octane, i'd guess you'd put down 290-300whp, and 315-325wtq (again, assuming dynojet, sae, sea level, moderate temps)
 

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and that is still a nice bump from stock
 
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I am running a similar set-up to what you listed but with a bit more, here and there. You can check out the analysis here: Dynosheet from my Subaru STI 2020 (e85, TBE, etc...) but i am running e85/flex and not pump gas.

On pump gas and your listed parts, I would guess it would make around 295-305whp. Its hard when talking about exact WHP numbers because if youre number chasing, it varies drastically and a number output isnt reliable. It doesnt really matter what a dyno says because it changes all the time, its just a reference point.
 
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