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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sup everyone! I drive my car daily and im looking to upgrade my clutch. The car is stock in terms of power and I do ALOT of skilled spirited driving but I also deal with tons of city traffic. I may look for more power in the future but its not of concern at the moment. Is there anything out there that will give me oem feel but is much stronger and durable than the oem parts? I was looking into the ACT heavy duty street performance clutch kit but im unsure if im headed in the right direction. Any recommendations are appreciated especially from the people with personal experience on their upgrade? Thanks guys

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2019 needs a clutch?
How many miles?

Cant imagine needing a clutch without abuse.

That said most here would say say you were headed in the right direction - if you cars is significantly far from stock. Personally I avoid ACT because of my experience specifically with the HDSS, But, apparently I'm unusual.

Wait, why do you think you need a clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was looking into the hdss...why steer clear? Car has 40k due to long distance traveling for work and my clutch is perfectly fine and don't need a new one lol...i just WANT a new clutch. I know my true driving style and I know the oem clutch doesn't like hard driving as with the oem rotors and brake pads. Which is why I switched my rotors out for dba 5000 series and better pads. I'm not ur regular "there's so much rev hang" kinda guy. I want a clutch to match my driving that will last

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Discussion Starter #6
I was looking into the 6 puck but based on reviews its a pain in the ass in traffic (i drive in manhattan)...but im assuming there's a learning curve that I can pick up on quickly. Thanks for the xclutch recommendation man and not assuming I don't know how ro drive

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Discussion Starter #7
get a puck then. xclutch has caught my eye as of late, havent heard any reviews about them thou.
I was looking into the 6 puck but based on reviews its a pain in the ass in traffic (i drive in manhattan)...but im assuming there's a learning curve that I can pick up on quickly. Thanks for the xclutch recommendation man and for not assuming I don't know how ro drive

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Discussion Starter #8
get a puck then. xclutch has caught my eye as of late, havent heard any reviews about them thou.
Bro, have u had experience with a puck clutch? How is it at slower speeds? I'm assuming with fast inputs it shouldn't be a problem, right?

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I have never had a puck, but i had a "spec clutch" stage 2 on my old caliber srt4 (400whp) and i really liked it (expensive thou). you can really feel the friction point where on the stock sti clutch you cannot. i use to stall my stock catback sti all the time because i couldnt feel the engagement point nor hear the engine. the spec clutch wasa bit heavier (not bad at all thou) and the engagement window was pretty narrow but its really easy to get used and quite rewarding. look for a higher tq capacity full face clutch and it will probably fill your need. many on here drive a puck daily and its fine thou. it would just be a bit less forgiving.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i actually just check the spec clutch and the prices went down a bit, maybe look into them.
Im checking out the SPEC stage 2 sprung full face and i think ur right.... that might fit my needs. I like that fact that it has a stage 1 feel which is like OEMish, excellent durability, and it leaves me some wiggle room for the future if I want to add some power. Price point isn't too bad either for a solid upgrade. Ur the man...im gonna keep doing some research but as for right now, that's looking like a solid buy. Just wanna make sure I make the right decision. Thanks man, appreciate it alot. You were great help

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Im still on my stock clutch and at 68K on my car. If were to be in the market for a new clutch i would be looking into South Bend clutch. Ive herd alot of good stuff about them on the internet. I know alot of people like the the ACT HDD kits but i dont care for it. A friend of mine had a 02 wrx with the clutch kit and the enguagement was just soo low. I found it very hard to drive due to how low and quickly it grabbed.

I would look into south bend, give them a call.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Im still on my stock clutch and at 68K on my car. If were to be in the market for a new clutch i would be looking into South Bend clutch. Ive herd alot of good stuff about them on the internet. I know alot of people like the the ACT HDD kits but i dont care for it. A friend of mine had a 02 wrx with the clutch kit and the enguagement was just soo low. I found it very hard to drive due to how low and quickly it grabbed.

I would look into south bend, give them a call.
Thanks for the recommendation man, I quickly peeped that too I like what im reading just haven't come across many reviews yet. Good to hear your input. Appreciate it man. It may seem silly to people but I like to do my upgrades early on so I dont have to deal with issues down the road. Last thing I need is to be doing something important and getting stuck calling AAA especially with the way i put on milage

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I know the oem clutch doesn't like hard driving as with the oem rotors and brake pads.ill last
Outside abuse, that's just plainly untrue for both items, particularly for street use.


I was looking into the hdss...why steer clear?
Had two fail in a row at 10K. Heard of others. See the rest of this post.
10 yrs ago a Subie tech that used work on SOA track cars told me SOA stopped using em.
YMMV, others have better luck.



Car has 40k due to long distance traveling for work and my clutch is perfectly fine and don't need a new one lol...i just WANT a new clutch. I know my true driving style and I know the oem clutch doesn't like hard driving as with the oem rotors and brake pads. Which is why I switched my rotors out for dba 5000 series and better pads. I'm not ur regular "there's so much rev hang" kinda guy. I want a clutch to match my driving that will last

, , ,

It may seem silly to people but I like to do my upgrades early on so I dont have to deal with issues down the road. Last thing I need is to be doing something important and getting stuck calling AAA especially with the way i put on milage
Unless it has been abused you won't make the car more reliable by replacing the clutch. In fact having it torn apart and replaced is more likely to make it less reliable, That's why the phrase "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" exists. Aftermarket clutches are not more reliable than stock, and there is no benefit from having a stiffer clutch if you don't need it. All it will do is increase stress to your cars engine, frame and other driveline components. This too may make the car less reliable.

It's your money, but I believe you are misguided. Clutches and brakes are wear items and the stock STI the parts are quite good. Rotors could have lasted 100K, Your clutch could last "forever". It wouldn't have in city traffic, but far longer than 40K.

I had two clutches fail at 10K. So why believe me? I drove a 1987 325iS to 298Kmi and never replaced its clutch. Then I drive a 2004WRX to 227Kmi when a valve went. The clutch was still fine. I bought a 05 STI with 94Kmi on it. It needed a clutch at 144Kmi - I still drove it 50K after two previous owners put 94Kmi on it. The failed clutches were both ACT HDSSs.



Southbend has gotten a fair amount of good publicity recently. I've become a Exedy fan and have been happy with several of their single disks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Outside abuse, that's just plainly untrue for both items, particularly for street use.




Had two fail in a row at 10K. Heard of others. See the rest of this post.
10 yrs ago a Subie tech that used work on SOA track cars told me SOA stopped using em.
YMMV, others have better luck.





Unless it has been abused you won't make the car more reliable by replacing the clutch. In fact having it torn apart and replaced is more likely to make it less reliable, That's why the phrase "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" exists. Aftermarket clutched are not more reliable than stock, and there is no benefit from having a stiffer clutch if you don't need it. All it will do is increase stress to your cars engine, frames and other driveline components. This too may make the car less reliable.

It's your money, but I believe you are misguided. Clutches and brakes are wear items and the stock STI the parts are quite good. Rotors could have lasted 100K, Your clutch could last "forever". It wouldn't have in city traffic, but far longer than 40K.

I had two clutches fail at 10K. So why believe me? I drove a 1987 325iS to 298Kmi and never replaced its clutch. Then I drive a 2004WRX to 227Kmi when a valve went. The clutch was still fine. I bought a 05 STI with 94Kmi on it. It needed a clutch at 144Kmi - I still drove it 50K after two previous owners put 94Kmi on it. The failed clutches were both ACT HDSSs.



Southbend has gotten a fair amount of good publicity recently. I've become a Exedy fan and have been happy with several of their single disks.
With all due respect...i can't talk to you. Idk who you are, you may be good at what you do, but you jump the gun way too fast and are quick to judge. You're not a helping hand. I sense a little saltiness on your end too so ill let you be. I came here for recommendations, not to be ridiculed for false assumptions. I can sit here and tell you how long my clutches have lasted in the past but I dont feel the need to prove anything to you. This is mainly why I stay away from forums because of the keyboard warriors. Again, respectfully, you don't know what plans I have for this car. All in all, there's only one reason why you buy a manual transmission...to have full control of everything you do and drive how you want to drive as long as you're not damaging the vehicle. Afterall, alot of aftermarket parts are called upgrades for a reason. thanks for the recommendation

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You explained stock power lever. You explained nothing wrong now. You explained DD in traffic + spirited driving.

Uh, what were the false assumptions? If you had other plans, you didn't include them and I did not assume them.

I called replacing a good clutch and rotors on a stock STI a waste. I wrote that major work (which a clutch is) generally makes cars less reliable. Aftermarket parts mostly do, though there are exceptions, they don't include STI clutches or rotors. An oil pickup would be one. Just about all but the cheapest manufactures call all of their parts upgrades. Some actually are performance upgrades. Some are junk. A Killer B oil pickup is an upgrade . . . but precious few aftermarket parts replacing newish and undamaged stock parts improve reliability.

Whats a good clutch for a DD stock STI that is not abused? This has been covered many many times here. An OEM is (was Exedy, they still are?) certainly good. Great advice and you already have one! :). Many choose a "stage 1" - when they actually need it.

There is a lot of great info here. and I can often steer others to it. TBH I most often take the trouble when somo else is offering poor information.

ACT Clutch Failure Exhibit A
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Idk man but it just seemed like u were throwing little subtle comments here and there like thinking my clutch is already fried at 40k, im abusing the car, and the longevity of rotors/clutches. And then trying to like flex ur nuts with telling me how long ur clutches have lasted. Thats not needed. Anyways, if we can agree to disagree (because people have different driving styles and opinions) there's no bad blood here. Anyways, to my knowledge, and after speaking with quite a few people who I trust with everything car related (these people have built cars from the ground up and have won 1st prize in countless shows) a puck clutch will 100% put unnecessary stress on your engine and drivetrain especially if its stock. My plan is for a 400hp daily driver. Don't ask me what im gonna get cuz im slowly trying to figure this all out lolol. Anyways... im really leaning towards a southbend stage 3 daily after Jay's comment earlier. Putting this on the car will not stress the components of the vehicle and wont make it less reliable (mine and many others opinion). The only thing ur doing is beefing up ur clutch that can handle quick precise shifts which is much stronger and durable than the oem and will help when power is added in the future. My drive train warranty is already up so im trying make moves instead of keeping it a figure of my imagination

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Idk man but it just seemed like u were throwing little subtle comments here and there like thinking my clutch is already fried at 40k, im abusing the car, and the longevity of rotors/clutches. And then trying to like flex ur nuts with telling me how long ur clutches have lasted. Thats not needed. Anyways, if we can agree to disagree (because people have different driving styles and opinions) there's no bad blood here. Anyways, to my knowledge, and after speaking with quite a few people who I trust with everything car related (these people have built cars from the ground up and have won 1st prize in countless shows) a puck clutch will 100% put unnecessary stress on your engine and drivetrain especially if its stock. My plan is for a 400hp daily driver. Don't ask me what im gonna get cuz im slowly trying to figure this all out lolol. Anyways... im really leaning towards a southbend stage 3 daily after Jay's comment earlier. Putting this on the car will not stress the components of the vehicle and wont make it less reliable (mine and many others opinion). The only thing ur doing is beefing up ur clutch that can handle quick precise shifts which is much stronger and durable than the oem and will help when power is added in the future. My drive train warranty is already up so im trying make moves instead of keeping it a figure of my imagination

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As for the rotors, they can't handle heat very well. And I know from experience. I was doing a pull against another car when I spotted a cop ahead and I had to go hard on my brakes. My brake pedal instantly felt like i had butter on the pads and rotors and ended up warping my rotors. Nicely put, im the guy that passes you on the highway and you think "what an asshole". The dba 5000 2 piece are perfect for me. You can litterally slam on them all day and ur good. Doesn't go to mean thats what I do all the time. Furthermore, the brake squeal prior to the warping was unbearable

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Idk man but it just seemed like u were throwing little subtle comments here and there like thinking my clutch is already fried at 40k, im abusing the car, and the longevity of rotors/clutches. And then trying to like flex ur nuts with telling me how long ur clutches have lasted.
Not at all what I was trying to say. You stated you didn't need a clutch, amd I was agreeing. If you actually did need one at 40K the then yes it was likely abuse, knowing and intentional, or unknowing from poor driving habits. But I also wrote, and installing one now won't make your car more reliable, especially if its an HDSS :) - becuase your clutch is still fine!

these people have built cars from the ground up and have won 1st prize in countless shows)
hopefully they actually drive em - whatever


a puck clutch will 100% put unnecessary stress on your engine and drivetrain especially if its stock.
Pretty sure that's not the case. Dampers springs and material yes. Some clutches have springs some don't. Normal clutches do.


My plan is for a 400hp daily driver.
Cool. Does this include a SB? Is so the engine will be out. That's an ideal time to replace the clutch - and the power will warrant having one rather than doing it now and wearing it out in the mean time. A clutch is a wear item and you drive in traffic. Also many performance clutches , like short blocks, are not designed to have long lives. That will exacerbate the issue.


As for the rotors, they can't handle heat very well. And I know from experience. I was doing a pull against another car when I spotted a cop ahead and I had to go hard on my brakes. My brake pedal instantly felt like i had butter on the pads and rotors and ended up warping my rotors. Nicely put, im the guy that passes you on the highway and you think "what an asshole". The dba 5000 2 piece are perfect for me. You can litterally slam on them all day and ur good. Doesn't go to mean thats what I do all the time. Furthermore, the brake squeal prior to the warping was unbearable
Brakes - Whatever. Owned and driven both you mention - not to mention your plan. Like I said, there a lot of info here. Jay is one of the ones to listen to. I don't know what I'm talkin about :)
 

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you know to think about it a bit more, you did ask what would feel like oem but take the abuse and the answer is a twin disk. a twin disk will feel most oem like compared to a full face with high tq rating or a puck. if you want to feel more engaged with the car, get a full face like i mentioned. if you really really want to feel engaged to the car, get the 6 puck sprung, but the puck will feel nothing like the oem, and to be fairly honest, the full face is still quite different, but in a good way. its more connected, more true control over the car. the oem is just kind a, pillow like. you just dont feel it.
 
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