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Happy to help. We e-tune all over the world, but if you have a local tuner you trust that's a solid way to go.

Thanks Joshua for your knowledge. I would love to get my car pro. tuned by you but I live in Canada . LOL close to Toronto . I found a place , my car goes in on Monday. I’m getting - Turbo back exhaust, cyl 4 mod, A/O separator , Air intake , fuel pump (I guess) and a pro tune .
 

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Thanks Joshua for your knowledge. I would love to get my car pro. tuned by you but I live in Canada . LOL close to Toronto . I found a place , my car goes in on Monday. I’m getting - Turbo back exhaust, cyl 4 mod, A/O separator , Air intake , fuel pump (I guess) and a pro tune .
Toronto eh?
I'm from Burlington!
I hope you are going with either Neetronics or Definitive for your pro tune.
There are other options but those are the best places in this area.
Don't go to Touge cause they basically put your car on a dyno and have someone in the states remote e-tune the car 😂
I have nothing but good things to say about my experience at Neetronics, gunna have them do my timing belt this spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Toronto eh?
I'm from Burlington!
I hope you are going with either Neetronics or Definitive for your pro tune.
There are other options but those are the best places in this area.
Don't go to Touge cause they basically put your car on a dyno and have someone in the states remote e-tune the car 😂
I have nothing but good things to say about my experience at Neetronics, gunna have them do my timing belt this spring.
Actually I’m from Hamilton , and yes I’m going to Neetronics. I have been to t
touge and I really didn’t like their workmanship. Very rushed , they don’t check over their work. I had to go back to them three times. Let’s say I was not a happy camper. I have heard great thinks about Neetronics and Natalie knows her stuff.
 

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Actually I’m from Hamilton , and yes I’m going to Neetronics. I have been to t
touge and I really didn’t like their workmanship. Very rushed , they don’t check over their work. I had to go back to them three times. Let’s say I was not a happy camper. I have heard great thinks about Neetronics and Natalie knows her stuff.
Ya I had a friend who had brand new tires put on brand new TE37's at Touge.
Apparently the lever on their machine they use to pry the tire onto the rim was damaged and they didn't think anything of it, and it messed up the bead on a couple of her tires... slow leak...
After some arguing, Touge ended up having to replace and install a couple tires on their bill, but she had to have the car towed there from Oakville... plus the down time, and the hassle...
I've bought parts from them before cause they are a powerhouse of a supplier and Daniel is easy to work with (I've ordered parts from him through instagram messenger), but I've never had my car serviced there.
I've always trusted NV auto with everything I won't do myself, from trans flushes to installing my AOS, and my first experience with Neetronics was my tuning date at the beginning of Nov.

I spent 10 days installing a bunch of mods in preparation for my protune (EBCS, FPR, step colder sparks, coils, injectors, inlet, intake filter, intake couplers, etc.) and on the morning of my tune I started the car up and smelt fuel....
I could see a small fuel leak on the driver side fuel rail but I had gone through hell installing the injectors the day before and didn't have time to rip the car apart again that morning, so I just towed it to Neetronics praying for the best but expecting they'd have my car at their shop for over a month waiting for their next available tuning date (they are busy in-season).
Within like 30 seconds, Shawn had my heat shield pulled, he moved a bunch of lines I didn't even know you could move, and he had the injector out and was inspecting it lol.
I left the car with them around 3 o'clock and just after 5 I got a call "your car is ready".
I was like, "Ready as in no longer leaking?"
"No, ready as in the leak was fixed and the tune is finished."
It ended up being a damaged injector oring, but point being they figured it out and had it on the dyno in no time.
Car pulls super strong now that my mods are optimized, and the occurrence of small FBK and FNL (like -1.4) has gone from semi-frequent to very occasional.
Your car is deffinately in good hands at Neetronics 😛
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ya I had a friend who had brand new tires put on brand new TE37's at Touge.
Apparently the lever on their machine they use to pry the tire onto the rim was damaged and they didn't think anything of it, and it messed up the bead on a couple of her tires... slow leak...
After some arguing, Touge ended up having to replace and install a couple tires on their bill, but she had to have the car towed there from Oakville... plus the down time, and the hassle...
I've bought parts from them before cause they are a powerhouse of a supplier and Daniel is easy to work with (I've ordered parts from him through instagram messenger), but I've never had my car serviced there.
I've always trusted NV auto with everything I won't do myself, from trans flushes to installing my AOS, and my first experience with Neetronics was my tuning date at the beginning of Nov.

I spent 10 days installing a bunch of mods in preparation for my protune (EBCS, FPR, step colder sparks, coils, injectors, inlet, intake filter, intake couplers, etc.) and on the morning of my tune I started the car up and smelt fuel....
I could see a small fuel leak on the driver side fuel rail but I had gone through hell installing the injectors the day before and didn't have time to rip the car apart again that morning, so I just towed it to Neetronics praying for the best but expecting they'd have my car at their shop for over a month waiting for their next available tuning date (they are busy in-season).
Within like 30 seconds, Shawn had my heat shield pulled, he moved a bunch of lines I didn't even know you could move, and he had the injector out and was inspecting it lol.
I left the car with them around 3 o'clock and just after 5 I got a call "your car is ready".
I was like, "Ready as in no longer leaking?"
"No, ready as in the leak was fixed and the tune is finished."
It ended up being a damaged injector oring, but point being they figured it out and had it on the dyno in no time.
Car pulls super strong now that my mods are optimized, and the occurrence of small FBK and FNL (like -1.4) has gone from semi-frequent to very occasional.
Your car is deffinately in good hands at Neetronics 😛
yes I’m not a fan of touge tuning , sorry to hear what happened to your friends car. That sounds like something very basic and they even messed that up. Crazy


That is really good to hear. I can’t wait to get my car in. I don’t know if I’m going to feel much of a difference. I’m going to a stage three. With exhaust from turbo back intake some reliability modifications and a pro tune. I’m new to this Subbi world.
 

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yes I’m not a fan of touge tuning , sorry to hear what happened to your friends car. That sounds like something very basic and they even messed that up. Crazy

That is really good to hear. I can’t wait to get my car in. I don’t know if I’m going to feel much of a difference. I’m going to a stage three. With exhaust from turbo back intake some reliability modifications and a pro tune. I’m new to this Subbi world.
I had my downpipe and headers installed together on the Cobb Stage 2 tune for a couple months prior to my pro tune.
The only real 'power adder' I installed right before my tune was the inlet, the rest was mostly supporting hardware.
Still, going Stage 2 -> Protune+inlet was a pretty obvious increase in power.
I went from 'pretty darn quick' to 'violent' off the line.

If you already have the turboback installed, you're still going to notice a pretty nice jump in power and the car will run a bit smoother.
If you haven't installed those parts yet and you are upgrading from stock or stage 1 to Stage 2/2+/3 + pro-tune, then oh boy.... hold onto the steering wheel and bring extra underwear.
Also, try to stretch your face a bit before you pick the car up cause you'll be grinning for a while and u don't wana get hurt! 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I had my downpipe and headers installed together on the Cobb Stage 2 tune for a couple months prior to my pro tune.
The only real 'power adder' I installed right before my tune was the inlet, the rest was mostly supporting hardware.
Still, going Stage 2 -> Protune+inlet was a pretty obvious increase in power.
I went from 'pretty darn quick' to 'violent' off the line.

If you already have the turboback installed, you're still going to notice a pretty nice jump in power and the car will run a bit smoother.
If you haven't installed those parts yet and you are upgrading from stock or stage 1 to Stage 2/2+/3 + pro-tune, then oh boy.... hold onto the steering wheel and bring extra underwear.
Also, try to stretch your face a bit before you pick the car up cause you'll be grinning for a while and u don't wana get hurt! 😂
Oh really , Yes I still have a stock down pipe . Monday I will be getting a downpipe, air intake, and pro tuned. I believe that will put me at a stage 3+ because I will be changing my fuel pump too. Maybe next year ill do the injectors and fuel lines. I wonder how much HP I will see ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
fuel pump is a good call with stock injectors on a dyno tuned stage 2 setup. is the shop you're going to a subaru specialist? if not an e-tune from someone that is would probably be better.
Yes , They work on Subbis I have heard good reviews from them. Fingers are crossed
 

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Oh really , Yes I still have a stock down pipe . Monday I will be getting a downpipe, air intake, and pro tuned. I believe that will put me at a stage 3+ because I will be changing my fuel pump too. Maybe next year ill do the injectors and fuel lines. I wonder how much HP I will see ?
Based on what is available for the other cars, you are going Stage 2 + intake with a pro tune. The fuel pump doesn’t effect the tune, it’s just for safety.
Fuel lines rnt super necessary cause we don’t have e85 here, and ur not upgrading the turbo.
Injectors won’t really ‘add power’ it will just add safety margin and maybe pick up any power the tuner dialled back on with the stock injectors for safety.
Id still keep them in ur plans, but keep in mind u’ll need a retune to run the car.
You are going to notice a massive difference going stock -> stage 2 protune.
My underwear comment still applies, esp if the sti is one of ur first ‘fast cars’ 😂
If you get used to stage 2 and then decide that another bump in power is what you seek, my vote is for equal length headers. I’d do them the same time as the injectors, cause you’ll want a tune adjustment to maximize them and at that point you’ll 100% want the fuelling support.
Killer B makes the holy grail of headers but if you don’t want to spend that kind of money, I grabbed the Tomei’s (and paid to have them coated) as a good second option.
Even on a basic cobb stage 2, the headers had a noticeable torque increase without changing anything to the tune.
Now I’m pro tuned with the headers and it’s awesome.
All that said, glad to hear ur at least going with the fuel pump and you will 100% be happy after your tune.
You will probably get around a 20% increase in power, which on a 300hp car is definitely noticeable lol
This wont be like on a Honda where you throw on an intake and ur like ‘is it faster? Idk, but it makes lots of noise now so it should be faster’ no, this WILL be faster 😂
 

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Oh really , Yes I still have a stock down pipe . Monday I will be getting a downpipe, air intake, and pro tuned. I believe that will put me at a stage 3+ because I will be changing my fuel pump too. Maybe next year ill do the injectors and fuel lines. I wonder how much HP I will see ?
Downpipe will make the biggest difference here. But what you have is typically considered “stage 2” although I always thought stages were dumb, especially cause after stage2 you start listing mods anyway. Stage 3 referred to a wrx with an STi turbo when I was coming up. You have an intake and turbo back lol

pending dyno. I’d expect to see 270-300whp and 290-325wtq. We would usually see 290-300whp and 300-330wtq on mach v’s dynojet when I was there.
 

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Downpipe will make the biggest difference here. But what you have is typically considered “stage 2” although I always thought stages were dumb, especially cause after stage2 you start listing mods anyway. Stage 3 referred to a wrx with an STi turbo when I was coming up. You have an intake and turbo back lol

pending dyno. I’d expect to see 270-300whp and 290-325wtq. We would usually see 290-300whp and 300-330wtq on mach v’s dynojet when I was there.
I used to think the same thing. After stage 2 you just listed mods unless it was significant. Typically stage 3 ment bigger turbo but now a days stage 3 just means you have the entire Cobb catalog :LOL:
 

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. . . pump isn't what controls fuel, the injectors are . . .Pump just supplies more pressure to the fuel rail, it's the injectors that allow for greater injection as required, with less effort. . . . While you can . . . One is more water pressure in the house, one is a larger nozzle on the end of the hose.
Can't really dump more water if the nozzle is too small just because the pressure is a bit higher.

That is not true. In fact it is how boosted fuel systems work! As manifold pressure rises, fuel pressure rises to match, so there won't be a reduction in flow simplifying calculation of duty cycle. The fact that this is somewhat obscured by the complexity of the system doe not changed the fact that without raising the fuel pressure there would be less flow - and anyway sometimes fuel pressure is raised rather than replacing injectors . . .
 

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Also to note, as fuel pressure rises, max flow drops from the pump. This is why you get a really large pump that has the flow you need, at the fuel pressure you need (~43.5 PSI of base pressure + 35 PSI of boost = 78.5 fuel pressure on the rail. Make sure the pump can flow what you need at that ~79 PSI).
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Downpipe will make the biggest difference here. But what you have is typically considered “stage 2” although I always thought stages were dumb, especially cause after stage2 you start listing mods anyway. Stage 3 referred to a wrx with an STi turbo when I was coming up. You have an intake and turbo back lol

pending dyno. I’d expect to see 270-300whp and 290-325wtq. We would usually see 290-300whp and 300-330wtq on mach v’s dynojet when I was there.
I was just ping off of the Cobb web site , one you change the air intake and down pipe and start to play with the fuel pressures that’s considered a stage 3 .


2018 STI

Stage3 1050x
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Downpipe will make the biggest difference here. But what you have is typically considered “stage 2” although I always thought stages were dumb, especially cause after stage2 you start listing mods anyway. Stage 3 referred to a wrx with an STi turbo when I was coming up. You have an intake and turbo back lol

pending dyno. I’d expect to see 270-300whp and 290-325wtq. We would usually see 290-300whp and 300-330wtq on mach v’s dynojet when I was there.

What does a Stock STI Dyno. In at? 270-300whp and 290-325wtq does not seem like a lot ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I was just ping off of the Cobb web site , one you change the air intake and down pipe and start to play with the fuel pressures that’s considered a stage 3 .


2018 STI

Stage3 1050x
I guess this is just like what you guys are saying , its once you buy all Cobb add on‘s its considered a stage three LOL good sales marketing
 

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What does a Stock STI Dyno. In at? 270-300whp and 290-325wtq does not seem like a lot ???
Closer to 230-240whp and similar torque.
Approx 20-25% drivetrain loss due to the awd.
270whp would be 13% dtl (fwd cars usually have at least 15-18%), and 300whp would be 4% lol.

With all my mods (inlet, downpipe, headers, injectors, pump, fpr, ebcs, etc.) I'm making 280/330 on a conservative reading dyno.
On a dynojet I might read 320/350, but point being, your baseline numbers are much much lower than you think.

How would you be able to tune my car ? I would have to bring my car down to you to be Dynoed?
E-tunes dont use a dyno.
Typically they send you a base map, you go do some pulls and such while recording, you send the log files, they adjust the tune, you run again, etc.
Usually cheaper and convenient if you are remote, but if you're getting your parts installed by the shop anyways, throwing it on their dyno makes sense.
 

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What does a Stock STI Dyno. In at? 270-300whp and 290-325wtq does not seem like a lot ???
on the dynojet they had stock STis would typically put down 235-240whp and close to the same wtq. I think it came out to like 20-22% drivetrain loss when I did the math.
 
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