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Factory specs are a range, and not anything exact. It's probably the same it's been for like the past 10 years.

Around -0.5 front camber, -1.5 to -2 rear camber. Slight toe in on the rear.

Basically the same garbage specs it has been.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Factory specs are a range, and not anything exact. It's probably the same it's been for like the past 10 years.

Around -0.5 front camber, -1.5 to -2 rear camber. Slight toe in on the rear.

Basically the same garbage specs it has been.
Yeah I figured it was a range. I might see about getting some more front neg camber.
 

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Is there a recommended alignment spec for these cars vs stock? Would anyone see any value in changing the specs if they're limited to the odd spirited drive through twisty roads but mostly DD/commuting?
 

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yes - just set em to max neg equal amount you can get on both wheels - it won't be enough,
and it won't be enough to have any valid concerns

- though someone will surely chime in (any second) and write three paragraphs why you shouldn't and that SOA engineers are perfect and no changes or modifications are worth while . . . same people who can't figure out that its worthwhile to run synthetic oil cause their 05 manual didn't require it . . .

Added: fact is a large percentage of this site is devoted to higher performance than was provided in the car stock . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It all depends on how you like your car to handle. They have a bit more understeer then I like from the factory which is why ide like to add some neg camber in the front.
 

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yes - just set em to max neg equal amount you can get on both wheels - it won't be enough,
and it won't be enough to have any valid concerns

- though someone will surely chime in (any second) and write three paragraphs why you shouldn't and that SOA engineers are perfect and no changes or modifications are worth while . . . same people who can't figure out that its worthwhile to synthetic oil cause their 05 manual didn't require it . . .
How is it that when you said this, I can picture exactly who you're talking about? :lol:

LMAOLOLROFLWTFZOMGHAHA
 

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Absolute best first mod is an alignment. Get your front camber equal (never comes that way from the factory :) ), set toe to 0 and get out there and enjoy your new ride. I hardly ever post but spend much time here and have preached this for 11 years. Love these cars.
 

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Also look at toe, I'm currently 0 toe all round, I've think I might change to a little bit of toe in at the front as it's tram lining a little bit.

As for castor, I cannot recall my settings but they are now both the same.

OEM settings were all over the shop.
 

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I just aligned my car last weekend and it drives much better now.

I got -1.3° of camber in the front and the rear was at -1.9°. I set the front toe to 0° and the rear was at 0.04° toe in, which wasn't enough for me to bother trying to zero it out.

Like others have said, it's a great mod and makes the car corner better and more fun to drive. I just wish I would've done it sooner. I got the Tenhulzen 2-wheel alignment kit and it's actually easier to do yourself than I originally thought. So don't be scared if you're thinking about doing it yourself.
 

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Hey guys,

This is a great thread. I also own a 2018 and am about to do the alignment/neg camber. Please help me with 2 questions:

1. With factory parts, what's the maximum camber we can get on the front? I read -1.7 somewhere.
2. I called a local shop (specialized for tuning), and they said from their experience, the rear camber can't be adjusted. Is this true?

I hope to gather a bit more info before actually doing the alignment. Thank you guys so much!! =)

Michael
 

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Hey guys,

This is a great thread. I also own a 2018 and am about to do the alignment/neg camber. Please help me with 2 questions:

1. With factory parts, what's the maximum camber we can get on the front? I read -1.7 somewhere.
2. I called a local shop (specialized for tuning), and they said from their experience, the rear camber can't be adjusted. Is this true?

I hope to gather a bit more info before actually doing the alignment. Thank you guys so much!! =)

Michael
a little toe out does wonders. .06 is all you need for better turn in.
My 15 at stock height just got - 1.5 on the front (the 1.5 was the max for the left with -1.6 being the max on the right.

Rear is non adjustable for camber, mine was around - 0.5.

Castor is non adjustable without parts IIRC.

I have found a little toe in on the front is good for daily duties and the occasional track day, car is more stable at speed and wanders less, I was running 0 toe all round.

Stock camber only just cuts the mustard on the street but it falls on it's head at the track when using Hankook RS3.

After market parts to achieve effective alignment settings for a more aggressive set up are not that expensive and are required with good rubber and track conditions.

I am currently running some Pirelli A/S, I will be doing alot of milage over the next few months and the summer rains are on their way, with the A/S tyres the lack of adjustability isn't an issue due to the A/S grip levels being lower than RS3.

I found sway bars good for tuning out the inherant understeer, I recommend getting a adjustable 24mm on it, front is not required IMO, albeit I run a 26mm set on soft/soft.

With the RS3's on I ran the rear at medium/medium, car handled great, I might tighten the rear up to med/hard with the A/S tyres and see how it goes as it has a tendency to understeer a bit with them now.

Disclaimer: These setting suit my particular driving style and conditions, they may not be everyones cup of tea, life is like that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I will be taking my car for an alignment in the spring and see what they can do with the stock setup. If it still does not turn in as well as I like I may go with a rsb as well.
 

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My 15 at stock height just got - 1.5 on the front (the 1.5 was the max for the left with -1.6 being the max on the right.

Rear is non adjustable for camber, mine was around - 0.5.

Castor is non adjustable without parts IIRC.

I have found a little toe in on the front is good for daily duties and the occasional track day, car is more stable at speed and wanders less, I was running 0 toe all round.

Stock camber only just cuts the mustard on the street but it falls on it's head at the track when using Hankook RS3.

After market parts to achieve effective alignment settings for a more aggressive set up are not that expensive and are required with good rubber and track conditions.

I am currently running some Pirelli A/S, I will be doing alot of milage over the next few months and the summer rains are on their way, with the A/S tyres the lack of adjustability isn't an issue due to the A/S grip levels being lower than RS3.

I found sway bars good for tuning out the inherant understeer, I recommend getting a adjustable 24mm on it, front is not required IMO, albeit I run a 26mm set on soft/soft.

With the RS3's on I ran the rear at medium/medium, car handled great, I might tighten the rear up to med/hard with the A/S tyres and see how it goes as it has a tendency to understeer a bit with them now.

Disclaimer: These setting suit my particular driving style and conditions, they may not be everyones cup of tea, life is like that :)
Found this post very helpful, been driving my 17 sti stock for over a year now. I’m not looking to get any more power out of her just more fun for some back road driving 😜
 
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