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Discussion Starter #1
I told my friend at the end of last year to book a track day and I would join him, no excuses.

He called a couple days ago and said he booked a day on July 12 and to get my shit together.

I have a 2018 with several suspension and engine mods, but hadn't really looked at brakes since I only have ~20K on the clock and the OEM brakes on this car are smashing fro driving on the street and mountain roads. But if I'm going to the track, I know I'm going to push it. Lots of experience on a track on motorcycles, so I know I will be comfortable pretty quick.

Decided to throw in some pads all the way around and fluid change to Motul. Almost $700 just for parts, Damn. Still need to buy a Helmet, Fuel Jugs for E85, and bunch of other little crap. Oh well.
 

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I bought track pads for less than that for my 2019. I only use the oem pads on the street. They will get greasy on you when really pushing the car in a 20 minute session. Go to KNSbrakes. Get some GLOC R12 for front and R10 for the rear. Way better than OEM pads.


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Discussion Starter #3
I bought everything from KNS. My friend didn’t give me enough lead time to get GLOC as they are made to order if Ken doesn’t have them in stock.

I got the feeling he would have preferred for me to use G-Loc, but with my tight time frame and needing something shipped immediately, he set me up with CarboTech XP-12’s and 3 Bottles of Motul 600 fluid for flush and spare. With 3 day shipping so I can get everything done this coming weekend it was $630. So closer to $600, than $700.
 

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I bought everything from KNS. My friend didn’t give me enough lead time to get GLOC as they are made to order if Ken doesn’t have them in stock.

I got the feeling he would have preferred for me to use G-Loc, but with my tight time frame and needing something shipped immediately, he set me up with CarboTech XP-12’s and 3 Bottles of Motul 600 fluid for flush and spare. With 3 day shipping so I can get everything done this coming weekend it was $630. So closer to $600, than $700.
Carbotech are good too. Similar pad. Same people who made carbotech in the first place but have now went to make GLOC. The motul is ok. Castrol SRF has a 660 dry boiling point and doesn’t drop as much when using the wet boiling point which is the true one to use. Once out of the bottle and in our cars for any length of time that’s the boiling point that matters. One bottle of SRF will get you through a flush on the STI. They are larger bottles compared to the competitors. Not cheap but the best.


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Discussion Starter #5
I really preferred to use the SRF, but couldn't find any I could get in time as they are in this Ester shortage. The bottles I could find were over $100. When I shitcan the OEM rotors, I plan to put in SRF, hoping it will be available. I've read a lot about it and it seems like it needs much less attention than all the others due to the high wet boiling point. I really was sold on it, but it's really hard to find.
 

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I really preferred to use the SRF, but couldn't find any I could get in time as they are in this Ester shortage. The bottles I could find were over $100. When I shitcan the OEM rotors, I plan to put in SRF, hoping it will be available. I've read a lot about it and it seems like it needs much less attention than all the others due to the high wet boiling point. I really was sold on it, but it's really hard to find.
Yeah. I’ve been using it for 7 years. I find it on amazon. It’s 98 bucks on there now. I got it in the 70 range earlier this season.


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Discussion Starter #7
I should just order a bottle from Amazon to have it for next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I installed the front pads today. Decided to have the rotors turned to provide a fresh surface for the finicky Carbotech pads. $100 to have them turned as my machine shop bead blasts the Top Hat to insure perfect lathe mount up, and then they hot tank the rotors afterwards to clean out the drilled holes on rotor surface. When I picked them up, I asked them what the measurement was. We measured them at 28.9 and 28.6mm after machining. I look at the rotor and it’s stamped 28mm min thickness. Car only has 23,000 miles and the oem pads were 80%. Pitiful and now I probably can’t get them covered by Subaru because i did the work myself.

I’d say based on the cost of replacement pads and rotors, the 6 pot upgrade for 2018 is not worth it. It looks cool because they are massive, but that’s about it. Over $600 for pads front and rear and then replacement rotors will be another ~$600 for DBA 4000 fronts. I would bet that I could install an aftermarket kit on my car and sell my highlighter green kit used and be in better shape as the aftermarket kit would have more economic consumables.
 

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Well, I installed the front pads today. Decided to have the rotors turned to provide a fresh surface for the finicky Carbotech pads. $100 to have them turned as my machine shop bead blasts the Top Hat to insure perfect lathe mount up, and then they hot tank the rotors afterwards to clean out the drilled holes on rotor surface. When I picked them up, I asked them what the measurement was. We measured them at 28.9 and 28.6mm after machining. I look at the rotor and it’s stamped 28mm min thickness. Car only has 23,000 miles and the oem pads were 80%. Pitiful and now I probably can’t get them covered by Subaru because i did the work myself.

I’d say based on the cost of replacement pads and rotors, the 6 pot upgrade for 2018 is not worth it. It looks cool because they are massive, but that’s about it. Over $600 for pads front and rear and then replacement rotors will be another ~$600 for DBA 4000 fronts. I would bet that I could install an aftermarket kit on my car and sell my highlighter green kit used and be in better shape as the aftermarket kit would have more economic consumables.
They are better on the track compared to my 2015. Better at handling the heat from my experience. Zero fade with the track pads and CASTROL SRF


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