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Discussion Starter #1
So I just purchased a 17 STi Limited and itching to take it to the track, any inputs or advice on what needs to be replaced or done to the car before taking it out? I know fresh fluids is a good idea and have been to multiple track events but would like to take some precautions when taking the car to the track. I plan to track it stock the way it is but would like to hear peoples recommendations before I do so.
 

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At a minimum good pads and fluid. If it's stock you should be safe, just watch coolant temps.
Those were definitely on my mind along with maybe fresh set of tires but was more concern about the reliability of the motor as I have meet a couple people that had this generation STI and lost motors.
 

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I did 65 track days on full slicks in 2 seasons with my last STI (2011).


Motor wise, just COBB stage2, OTS LWG 91 tune, oil cooler and radiator ducting.

My 16 STI is little bit more extreme:
http://instagr.am/p/B-GLynZhQ2W/
Those were definitely on my mind along with maybe fresh set of tires but was more concern about the reliability of the motor as I have meet a couple people that had this generation STI and lost motors.
 

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I must just be lucky. 107F temps at Thunderhill a couple weeks ago and coming off track after every session, never saw coolant temps above 215. The coolest being when I forgot to turn off AC leaving the grid. Makes me think I should install a switch to force the 2nd fan to stay on while on track.
 

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I must just be lucky. 107F temps at Thunderhill a couple weeks ago and coming off track after every session, never saw coolant temps above 215. The coolest being when I forgot to turn off AC leaving the grid. Makes me think I should install a switch to force the 2nd fan to stay on while on track.
Nice, that's the track I'm usually at and plan to take the STi. Is there like place to plan local track events with other members?
 

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No clue about a place to plan track meet-ups. We have a Bay Area forum, but its a morgue over there.
 

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I did 65 track days on full slicks in 2 seasons with my last STI (2011).


Motor wise, just COBB stage2, OTS LWG 91 tune, oil cooler and radiator ducting.

My 16 STI is little bit more extreme:
http://instagr.am/p/B-GLynZhQ2W/
I assume one of the reasons you don't run poly or traditional bushings is because you are on slicks. I've heard full race tires will shred suspension bushings pretty quick. How did wheel bearings hold up?
 

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I would suggest an AOS, better brake fluid, and a proper alignment. Those would be the minamum I would run. I highly suggest a bigger rear sway bar as you can totaly neutralise the handling on these and remove the tendancy to understeer. I didn't find any overheating issues or brake fade with Motul brake fluid and Stoptech Sport pads but my track is a smaller one.
 

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If you are running Thunderhill, install proper race pads. I'm running Carbotech XP12's front and XP10's rear. Rear are perfect. XP12's started to smear, but air temps were 107 that day. Temps around 100F are pretty common for T-Hill in the summer, and it has 3 pretty hard braking zones from over 100mph. When my fronts are done, I may move to XP14's or the G-Loc version of 14's
 

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We don't use poly because the really don't work very well. Slicks, R-comps or street tires, doesn't really matter. Poly bushings unless constantly cleaned and lubed wear and bind up. Not to mention make noise. They do have some compliance but the binding is the main concern because it changes the effective wheel spring rate.

Mono balls aren't all sunshine and roses but my STI and Porsche are 100% monoballed. I don't drive either in the rain if I can help it to reduce grime in the spherical bearings.

What track config were you running at Thunder?

I assume one of the reasons you don't run poly or traditional bushings is because you are on slicks. I've heard full race tires will shred suspension bushings pretty quick. How did wheel bearings hold up?
 

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We don't use poly because the really don't work very well. Slicks, R-comps or street tires, doesn't really matter. Poly bushings unless constantly cleaned and lubed wear and bind up. Not to mention make noise. They do have some compliance but the binding is the main concern because it changes the effective wheel spring rate.

Mono balls aren't all sunshine and roses but my STI and Porsche are 100% monoballed. I don't drive either in the rain if I can help it to reduce grime in the spherical bearings.

What track config were you running at Thunder?
3 Mile Config. Pretty much the only configuration I have ever used on that track. It was my 1st car track day, but I've ridden Thunderhill on my RC51 many, many times. On a motorcycle, my favorite config is 3 mile in reverse direction. I don't think they allow that anymore.

I am kind of interested in learning more going away from rubber bushings. I kind of screwed up when I 1st got my 18, because I went through and installed all the N Group mounts all over the car. In my opinion, they made almost no difference. On my Sped 3, I ran the highest Durometer engine mounts I kind find and a Solid Trans mount. Made the car so much more driveable as it almost eliminated the FWD torque steer. I know STI should not torque because of equal length axles, but I have noticed it fairly often.
 

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Any lap times?

Group N motor mounts? If so they work great. Stiffer mounts are available but not needed for most applications IMO. I have the aluminum Perrin motor mounts and TS trans mount on my STI but I just wanted to test them out... The suspension is much more critical to handling.




3 Mile Config. Pretty much the only configuration I have ever used on that track. It was my 1st car track day, but I've ridden Thunderhill on my RC51 many, many times. On a motorcycle, my favorite config is 3 mile in reverse direction. I don't think they allow that anymore.

I am kind of interested in learning more going away from rubber bushings. I kind of screwed up when I 1st got my 18, because I went through and installed all the N Group mounts all over the car. In my opinion, they made almost no difference. On my Sped 3, I ran the highest Durometer engine mounts I kind find and a Solid Trans mount. Made the car so much more driveable as it almost eliminated the FWD torque steer. I know STI should not torque because of equal length axles, but I have noticed it fairly often.
 

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Any lap times?

Group N motor mounts? If so they work great. Stiffer mounts are available but not needed for most applications IMO. I have the aluminum Perrin motor mounts and TS trans mount on my STI but I just wanted to test them out... The suspension is much more critical to handling.
Yes, Group N motor, trans and pitch stop. I'll be completely honest with you. The Group N Pitch Stop was the exact same part that came on my STI. Same part number on dog bone and busing inserts. I would still prefer stiffer or solid mounts. I prefer the feedback from those types of setups.

To be honest, I purposely did not look for a solution for lap times. I haven't been on a racetrack in several years, and the friend I went with was a fellow trackday competitor of mine back the MC days, so I was sure I would push too hard if I was comparing lap times. Especially since his track car is a '17 ACR Edition Viper. But I had an amazing day and was glad I followed his advice and stayed out of the beginner class. By the 3rd session, things sort of clicked and just became fun. The tires were flawless and predictable as I could lose and regain traction during trail braking pretty easily.

Signed up to drive Laguna Seca at the end of August. I've been a spectator there for years and done 1 session on a motorcycle 10 years ago, so it will be new and exciting! Maybe I will load a lap timer app for that day to see how I progress over the day. Plan is to start in a novice class so I can get some lead follow time to learn the line and then when I feel comfortable, I'll move up to intermediate/advanced for more freedom.

By the way, the Ohlins are amazing on the track. Worth any annoyances felt on the road. That with swaybars and a bit of chassis stiffening, the car felt very planted and predictable! I continue to be thankful for all the email support on my suspension setup and questions. I'm telling EVERYONE to buy Ohlins from you if they are moving to Coil Overs. The support you provide is more valuable than products, themselves.
 

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... Makes me think I should install a switch to force the 2nd fan to stay on while on track.
I would suggest the opposite! I do have a Ron Davis racing radiator, but I manually switch my fans, each independently. They are turned on when I hit the pit lane coming in and until the car is cool enough that it won't blow water out. They are never on while moving. Sometimes I need to turn one on while idling in the pit lane.
I have never had heating issues after years with this setup and make 470 HP.
 

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After having three different Subaru STI's (one GD and two GR's) on the track that have been daily drivers as well, I would agree with most that suggest (in order of importance and ignoring the obvious upgrades most mention):
An oil pressure gauge and a boost gauge. Funny how these are forgotten, but either could save an engine. An oil pressure gauge could tell you that something is wrong or that you need a higher viscosity oil or just a better/bigger pump.
An air/oil separator (I use Crawfords) and possibly a catch can. Divorce these from the intake!
An oil cooler, to cool and add capacity,
and front brake cooling. When you put your track pads on you want to keep them cool. Some crossover pads will disintegrate on the track, especially without cooling. Lastly, consider using Torco if you're not running flex and E85. It's cheap insurance that you have enough octane to prevent detonation, especially as engine and ambient temps go up.
When I started out tracking Subies I lost ringlands from oil consumption from blowby. I had a pitifully small catch can that overflowed into the intake on the second session. Lesson learned.
And finally, some eight years later, I lost a rod bearing in my DD, turned track backup car, from overheating and then detonation. My own stupid, damn fault for pushing it too hard while overheating the engine from lack of under-hood airflow. I was cooking the oil and likely had some detonation. I had a plain Impreza hood and no way to dissipate all the heat that the FMIC and oil cooler were adding to the engine compartment area. This, on the third day of tracking my 400 HP DD. I got away with punishing it for 2.5 days, but I didn't pay any attention to my AP data.
What I'm saying is it pays to pay attention to the engine and not be oblivious to warning signs. Most people losing rods bearings (or tossing the rod end through the case) is their own fault, not the inherent design of the engine. The red haze will do that to you.
 
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