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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

I'm looking to reduce weight of the car (especially the front) without affecting daily driving capabilites.
There are CF parts that I'm aware of but i'm not going to that route at the moment.
If there is something that I can drop the weight, suggestions will appreciated.

The list of the parts being removed/replaced comes from a 2019 STI model.

Here is the updated list I have done so far.

Front Seats ~50lbs
Rear Door Panels - 10.4lbs
Back Seat Top - 33.2lbs
Back Seat Bottom - 11.6lbs
Back Seat Metals - 5.6lbs
Trunk Misc Items and Liner - 17lbs
Seat Belts - 9.8lbs
Rear Speaker Covers - 4.4lbs
Spare Tire - 35lbs
Car jack - 5lbs
User Manual 3lbs
HKS HIPOWER Catback Exhaust - 13lbs
Girodisc Front Rotors - 8lbs pair
Perrin Crank Pulley
Sound Deadening - 12.76lbs
Carpet Half 4.4lbs
TGV/EGR/Air Pump Delete - 21lbs
Exhaust Heatshield
Head unit 5.4lbs
Amp 3.8lbs
Amp metal plate 2.2lbs
Front left speaker 2.2lbs
Wheels ~40lbs
Front crashbar ~30lbs
Oil cooler -5lbs
AC 17.1lbs
AC coolant ~6lbs
HKS Headers 12.4lbs
Front side crash bar 10.3lbs

Total ~368.9lbs
 

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Depending on how much you want to spend, a lithium battery will take another 15-20lb off the front left. Two piece rotors and coilovers can also save some weight, but that's getting a bit more pricey.
 

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This is the one area where the RA excels, from a factory standpoint; I think you've already got most of the easier, less expensive options out of the way.

Depending on how fancy you're willing to get, you can look into a titanium exhaust, CF D/S, lighter weight suspension and braking components.

Wheels / tires is another area where you can save some real weight savings that translate into better acceleration, braking, handling - etc.

I liked the idea of a lithium ion battery, but it carries quite a high price tag - unless things have changed.
 

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The stock wing weighs 18 lbs, so you could swap with a WRX and maybe even make some money on the trade. Not sure why you're using the HKS catback, that thing is huge and made of cheap stainless. The Tomei Ti weighs 16 lbs total, which is 35lbs less than stock. The Fujitsubo weighs 24lbs if you wanted something a bit quieter.

Does the TGV, EGR, and airpump systems really weigh that much? I swear the air pump itself is only like 3 lbs. A/C would give you a decent gain though.

Downsizing to an 18" wheel (yes many of them clear the 2018+ 6 piston brakes) should save you a LOT of the most important kind of weight. Think Enkei for budget weight reduction but still quality; or Works, Rays, etc if you're ready for a big spend.
 

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I wanna say bumper beam deletes. I believe beatrush sells some for the VA chassis if your willing to take away some of the safety aspect.

the factory wing is also fairly substantial interms of weight.
If the driver seat is a power unit than ditch it for a manual one i would guess or a seat with lighter weight.
The factory 2piece driveshaft with carbon driveshaft. The interior is going to get considerably louder with interior bits missing.
 

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I wanna say bumper beam deletes. I believe beatrush sells some for the VA chassis if your willing to take away some of the safety aspect.

the factory wing is also fairly substantial interms of weight.
If the driver seat is a power unit than ditch it for a manual one i would guess or a seat with lighter weight.
The factory 2piece driveshaft with carbon driveshaft. The interior is going to get considerably louder with interior bits missing.
If you do the bumper beam option though, it should be noted that compromising the integrity of the bumper beam also significantly degrades the integrity of the frame. They're physically separate pieces, in that the beam can be removed, but they work together in the event of a crash to not only protect occupants but maintain the car's integrity. The dinky aluminum replacements from the aftermarket may occupy the same space, but they're not going to do shit in the event of a crash.

Also, if your (or the other person's) insurance company finds evidence of aftermarket bumper beams, then you'll be SOL to say the least lol.

It'd honestly probably be better to get a full carbon body kit than remove bumper beams, and just ask your insurance company to include the price of those pieces in the coverage. It'd be cheaper than having the insurance company be completely off the hook because you removed crash beams.
 

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Hi guys,

I'm looking to reduce weight of the car (especially the front) without affecting daily driving capabilites.
There are CF parts that I'm aware of but i'm not going to that route at the moment.
If there is something that I can drop the weight, suggestions will appreciated.
Please define your "daily driving capabilities" and how much money are you willing to spend on weight reduction.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Depending on how much you want to spend, a lithium battery will take another 15-20lb off the front left. Two piece rotors and coilovers can also save some weight, but that's getting a bit more pricey.
I do have the 2 piece rotors and I have the battery planned for the future.
The coilovers require lots of maintenance for street use so I may not get that yet.

Thanks!

This is the one area where the RA excels, from a factory standpoint; I think you've already got most of the easier, less expensive options out of the way.

Depending on how fancy you're willing to get, you can look into a titanium exhaust, CF D/S, lighter weight suspension and braking components.

Wheels / tires is another area where you can save some real weight savings that translate into better acceleration, braking, handling - etc.

I liked the idea of a lithium ion battery, but it carries quite a high price tag - unless things have changed.
titanium exhaust will be too loud for street use and cops are aggressive on slapping VIs on even stock cars. CF are nice but it's not something that im going for in the near future. Wheels are definately the next in the list! Thank you for the suggestions!

The stock wing weighs 18 lbs, so you could swap with a WRX and maybe even make some money on the trade. Not sure why you're using the HKS catback, that thing is huge and made of cheap stainless. The Tomei Ti weighs 16 lbs total, which is 35lbs less than stock. The Fujitsubo weighs 24lbs if you wanted something a bit quieter.

Does the TGV, EGR, and airpump systems really weigh that much? I swear the air pump itself is only like 3 lbs. A/C would give you a decent gain though.

Downsizing to an 18" wheel (yes many of them clear the 2018+ 6 piston brakes) should save you a LOT of the most important kind of weight. Think Enkei for budget weight reduction but still quality; or Works, Rays, etc if you're ready for a big spend.
HKS catback is around 13lbs lighter than oem and provide more airflow for a low price. The reason for not going titanium is due to extreme exhaust noise that can cause problems with the local police. TGV, EGR and air pump delete are heavy but I haven't got a chance to get accurate weight on them yet. 18" enkei wheels are definately the next buy, I just havent listed it in the original post.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you do the bumper beam option though, it should be noted that compromising the integrity of the bumper beam also significantly degrades the integrity of the frame. They're physically separate pieces, in that the beam can be removed, but they work together in the event of a crash to not only protect occupants but maintain the car's integrity. The dinky aluminum replacements from the aftermarket may occupy the same space, but they're not going to do shit in the event of a crash.

Also, if your (or the other person's) insurance company finds evidence of aftermarket bumper beams, then you'll be SOL to say the least lol.

It'd honestly probably be better to get a full carbon body kit than remove bumper beams, and just ask your insurance company to include the price of those pieces in the coverage. It'd be cheaper than having the insurance company be completely off the hook because you removed crash beams.
This is very good information and I think I'm gonna return the STM front beam to avoid potential issues with insurance.
 

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If you do the bumper beam option though, it should be noted that compromising the integrity of the bumper beam also significantly degrades the integrity of the frame. They're physically separate pieces, in that the beam can be removed, but they work together in the event of a crash to not only protect occupants but maintain the car's integrity. The dinky aluminum replacements from the aftermarket may occupy the same space, but they're not going to do shit in the event of a crash.

Also, if your (or the other person's) insurance company finds evidence of aftermarket bumper beams, then you'll be SOL to say the least lol.

It'd honestly probably be better to get a full carbon body kit than remove bumper beams, and just ask your insurance company to include the price of those pieces in the coverage. It'd be cheaper than having the insurance company be completely off the hook because you removed crash beams.
This is very good information and I think I'm gonna return the STM front beam to avoid potential issues with insurance.
I saw your posts about noise restrictions, check out the fujitsubo exhaust here: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/pa...tem/270-63111-fujitsubo-authorize-rm-cat-back

It weighs over 25lbs less than stock, pretty cheap, and it's still Jasma certified. Where do you live that noise restrictions are so strict? I'd think the fujitsubo with Jasma certification would accommodate. The tomei is quite loud, but I haven't had a run in with police in Ohio after a year.

This is all just from the perspective of maximum weight reduction, of course. Get what you like first and foremost.
 

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the user manual is 3 lbs? goodness! i once bought a crx that the guy went so far as to remove front bumper/crash beam and nearly every bolt in the car...had about 1 bolt holding each other thing on...you also have AC system, headlghts, undertray, fender liners, check your state laws IIRC new mexico only needs fenders, windshield wipers, brake lights and turn signals...everything else is pretty much optional...windhshield, fenders, hood, bumper...
 

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If you do the bumper beam option though, it should be noted that compromising the integrity of the bumper beam also significantly degrades the integrity of the frame. They're physically separate pieces, in that the beam can be removed, but they work together in the event of a crash to not only protect occupants but maintain the car's integrity. The dinky aluminum replacements from the aftermarket may occupy the same space, but they're not going to do shit in the event of a crash.

Also, if your (or the other person's) insurance company finds evidence of aftermarket bumper beams, then you'll be SOL to say the least lol.

It'd honestly probably be better to get a full carbon body kit than remove bumper beams, and just ask your insurance company to include the price of those pieces in the coverage. It'd be cheaper than having the insurance company be completely off the hook because you removed crash beams.

I'd only go for the Beatrush bumper beams if the cars was strictly for show and or was on a trailer or towed to shows - it's just too much of a risk in today's driving environment.

As far as bumper beams, do we know if the VA JDM bumper beams are in fact any lighter?

Also, good call on the Fujitsubo exhaust - I've looked at that exact exhaust several times now, solely for the weight savings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
raisingAnarchy;4480578 said:
raisingAnarchy;4480568 said:
If you do the bumper beam option though, it should be noted that compromising the integrity of the bumper beam also significantly degrades the integrity of the frame. They're physically separate pieces, in that the beam can be removed, but they work together in the event of a crash to not only protect occupants but maintain the car's integrity. The dinky aluminum replacements from the aftermarket may occupy the same space, but they're not going to do shit in the event of a crash.

Also, if your (or the other person's) insurance company finds evidence of aftermarket bumper beams, then you'll be SOL to say the least lol.

It'd honestly probably be better to get a full carbon body kit than remove bumper beams, and just ask your insurance company to include the price of those pieces in the coverage. It'd be cheaper than having the insurance company be completely off the hook because you removed crash beams.
This is very good information and I think I'm gonna return the STM front beam to avoid potential issues with insurance.
I saw your posts about noise restrictions, check out the fujitsubo exhaust here: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/pa...tem/270-63111-fujitsubo-authorize-rm-cat-back

It weighs over 25lbs less than stock, pretty cheap, and it's still Jasma certified. Where do you live that noise restrictions are so strict? I'd think the fujitsubo with Jasma certification would accommodate. The tomei is quite loud, but I haven't had a run in with police in Ohio after a year.

This is all just from the perspective of maximum weight reduction, of course. Get what you like first and foremost.
I wish I have chosen something like that instead of the hks hipower. Less weight, less costs and possibly more airflow.

Cops in BC, Canada are heavily targeting modified cars especially those with louder exhaust noises. There are also cars without any mods got pulled over and slapped with a VI.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is the updated list I have done so far.

Front Seats ~50lbs
Rear Door Panels - 10.4lbs
Back Seat Top - 33.2lbs
Back Seat Bottom - 11.6lbs
Back Seat Metals - 5.6lbs
Trunk Misc Items and Liner - 17lbs
Seat Belts - 9.8lbs
Rear Speaker Covers - 4.4lbs
Spare Tire - 35lbs
Car jack - 5lbs
User Manual 3lbs
HKS HIPOWER Catback Exhaust - 13lbs
Girodisc Front Rotors - 8lbs pair
Sound Deadening - 12.76lbs
Carpet Half 4.4lbs
TGV/EGR/Air Pump Delete - 21lbs
Exhaust Heatshield
Head unit 5.4lbs
Amp 3.8lbs
Amp metal plate 2.2lbs
Front left speaker 2.2lbs
Wheels ~40lbs
Front crashbar ~30lbs
Oil cooler -5lbs
AC 17.1lbs
AC coolant ~6lbs
HKS Headers 12.4lbs
Front side crash bar 10.3lbs

Total ~368.9lbs

Next Goal:
Battery
 

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I do have the 2 piece rotors and I have the battery planned for the future.
The coilovers require lots of maintenance for street use so I may not get that yet.
  • Battery is a no brainer - even if you need two due to cold weather. Put it where the spare was in the trunk.
  • Plenty of us run coil-overs with little issue. Most of us do it for handling, not weight though weight is good too.
 

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True, but it's very low weight and distributed more toward the rear. I like getting the spce clear up front too.

On the other hand if I'd just have put it up front it would be in and done instead of sitting on my desk at work :)

Anyway you have me half convinced to just do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I already have my eyes on the Braille battery that weighs 5.5lbs. I'm more interested to know about the weight of the oem dashboard. Would it have lot of weight savings if i remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
True, but it's very low weight and distributed more toward the rear. I like getting the spce clear up front too.

On the other hand if I'd just have put it up front it would be in and done instead of sitting on my desk at work :)

Anyway you have me half convinced to just do it.
I thought of that as well but you can also relocate the sub 10lbs battery to the trunk so that saves you more weight in total. However that comes at a cost.
 

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