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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Regards,

I'm looking for second opinions such as what recommended parts needed to successfully finish this build, non-daily driver, just for weekend drive.

My tunner, from a very reputable shop Turn In Concepts which I recommend for those who lives in OH, he told me to go with a closed deck, as for the heads, Ferrea Valves and Retainers kit, I dont know if doing porting will be good since i'm not planning to track or beat it everyday, definetely i want to upgrades the cams (stock ones has little scoring). I was thinking in refresing the heads, springs and retainers and cams, which ones? GSC, Kelford or custom cams from the shop, still debating on that.

As for the Parts on hands:
-PTE6062 Gen II .82AR V-Band In/Out (Compressor and Turbine housing disassembled for powdercoat/cerakote)
-ETS Intercooler 3.5" Kit for Stock Intake Manifold (Cleaned and Powdercoated)
-Tial Bov Q
-Grimmspeed 3-Port EBCS
-IAG V2 AOS Street (Bought the Competition Conversion Kit)
-IAG Fuel Rails V3
-IAG TGV V2 CNC (Black)
-Koyo Radiator with Mishimoto hoses
-Torque Solution Air Pump Deletes Plates
-Cobb AP
- Invidia R400 Resonator Delete

I've done few DIY stuff, any tips and suggestion for DIY, will be appreciated. The Stock Engine currently is out of the engine bay and heads is separated from short block, this is a long a$$ project, time consuming, lots of patience and $$$. Still need to work in getting the short block, machine the cyl heads and upgrade the components, head studs, clutch, killer b headers, ETS Rotated Kit for Presicion, Fueling, E85, axles, links, coilovers, brakes, etc and a bunch of s#!t more. I'm taking it step by step, little by little and do it right rather than being in a rush and crazy like and regret down the road. People with similar build plans let me know as well. Sugestions and Recommendations will be appreciated.

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For cams - do you plan on keeping the stock redline or are you going to rev the car out higher?

I don’t see anything about an equal length header. I’d get one of those.Killer b or ets (personally I’d do killer b but either is gonna be quality
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm sorry, I don't have any advice but still wanted to say that this looks awesome. (Also, I can't imagine doing all these upgrades and not taking it to the track. it would be a blast)
I'm sorry, I don't have any advice but still wanted to say that this looks awesome. (Also, I can't imagine doing all these upgrades and not taking it to the track. it would be a blast)
Trust me, I will still take it to the track, at least once or twice. I need to test that street monster power once and a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For cams - do you plan on keeping the stock redline or are you going to rev the car out higher?

I don’t see anything about an equal length header. I’d get one of those.Killer b or ets (personally I’d do killer b but either is gonna be quality
My tunner mentioned me the custom cams they fabricate can make it rev up to 8k rpms.
 

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My tunner mentioned me the custom cams they fabricate can make it rev up to 8k rpms.
Custom cams they fabricate? Sooo what’s the duration/lift on them? Getting cams just moves the powerband. But you need to have them properly setup for your car/build. I’ve seen guys get the biggest cams they can find and have another car with the same setup minus cams making 200whp more (prime motoring just posted about this on ig). Idk of anyone fabricating a set, at least not any specific shop. But I’d really research to make sure they will put the power where you need them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Custom cams they fabricate? Sooo what’s the duration/lift on them? Getting cams just moves the powerband. But you need to have them properly setup for your car/build. I’ve seen guys get the biggest cams they can find and have another car with the same setup minus cams making 200whp more (prime motoring just posted about this on ig). Idk of anyone fabricating a set, at least not any specific shop. But I’d really research to make sure they will put the power where you need them.
Honestly, I dont know if they exactly fabricate the cams, unless he meant they use a specific brand with specific lift, 272 or 280. I was thinking in the GSC S2 with Ferrea Springs and retainers kit.
 

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Trust me, I will still take it to the track, at least once or twice. I need to test that street monster power once and a while.

No killer b oil pick up? It's cheap insurance since you have the block stripped.
How about fuel mods?
You will max out your fuel injector and fuel pump. iirc my injector was 85-90 percent on stage 2.
 

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You're going to want either the ID 1700 fuel injectors or the FIC 1650's. Also, a bigger fuel pump and a surge tank unless you're planning on replacing the fuel lines. When you go for 600WHP, the fuel needed is greater than the stock lines will take. As far as I know. My 08 is at 600whp, with closed deck V3 Outfront, Ferrea +1mm valves and springs, ported and polished, BC Stage 2 cams, revs to 7500 easy. Also, will need I-Beam rods. Would be good to WPC treat all rotating parts for longevity. Etc. The list of fail-safes is long and can get quite expensive. Then, once you get all this horsepower, you'll want better brakes. I have APR Racing RadiCals in 9668/355, and finally, the car stops the way I want it. Also, you'll want better cooling. Oil cooler, maybe a closed cooling system for tracking, etc.

If you skip these steps, you will be going back to correct them later. And that is money badly spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're going to want either the ID 1700 fuel injectors or the FIC 1650's. Also, a bigger fuel pump and a surge tank unless you're planning on replacing the fuel lines. When you go for 600WHP, the fuel needed is greater than the stock lines will take. As far as I know. My 08 is at 600whp, with closed deck V3 Outfront, Ferrea +1mm valves and springs, ported and polished, BC Stage 2 cams, revs to 7500 easy. Also, will need I-Beam rods. Would be good to WPC treat all rotating parts for longevity. Etc. The list of fail-safes is long and can get quite expensive. Then, once you get all this horsepower, you'll want better brakes. I have APR Racing RadiCals in 9668/355, and finally, the car stops the way I want it. Also, you'll want better cooling. Oil cooler, maybe a closed cooling system for tracking, etc.

If you skip these steps, you will be going back to correct them later. And that is money badly spent.
Appreciated for the info, this build takes time, patience and $$$ and with the proper parts and tunne to get it done right rather than getting poor and cheap quality parts and regret down the road.
 

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I have a very similar build as yours and wish I had ported valves. I have a closed deck Element Tuning Pro Comp short block with stock heads. The extra rev range would really be useful on track and especially in autocross. If you think you will ever want it now it’s the time since you already have the engine taken apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a very similar build as yours and wish I had ported valves. I have a closed deck Element Tuning Pro Comp short block with stock heads. The extra rev range would really be useful on track and especially in autocross. If you think you will ever want it now it’s the time since you already have the engine taken apart.
Oh yes ill definitelly do
You're going to want either the ID 1700 fuel injectors or the FIC 1650's. Also, a bigger fuel pump and a surge tank unless you're planning on replacing the fuel lines. When you go for 600WHP, the fuel needed is greater than the stock lines will take. As far as I know. My 08 is at 600whp, with closed deck V3 Outfront, Ferrea +1mm valves and springs, ported and polished, BC Stage 2 cams, revs to 7500 easy. Also, will need I-Beam rods. Would be good to WPC treat all rotating parts for longevity. Etc. The list of fail-safes is long and can get quite expensive. Then, once you get all this horsepower, you'll want better brakes. I have APR Racing RadiCals in 9668/355, and finally, the car stops the way I want it. Also, you'll want better cooling. Oil cooler, maybe a closed cooling system for tracking, etc.

If you skip these steps, you will be going back to correct them later. And that is money badly spent.
I just received today the new Killer B Header Max VE only difference it has a bigger secondary runner 2.5", some people told me it can lag more than the standard one (smaller secondory runner) but i can make more power with the Max VE, What you think about that?
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a very similar build as yours and wish I had ported valves. I have a closed deck Element Tuning Pro Comp short block with stock heads. The extra rev range would really be useful on track and especially in autocross. If you think you will ever want it now it’s the time since you already have the engine taken apart.
Oh yes definitely I will. Dont wont my car for track, you to drive it on weekends and give it some good hard pulls, and spirit driving.

Anyways so I took my Cyl Head and removed the Cams and buckets, and sent them to the machine shop for cleaning and to verify the valves condition.
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Still debating if i'd need porting, or by refreshing the heads, and polish the intake and exhaust ports (to smoothem them out), I have plans to run Ferrea Valve Springs and retainers kit (Drag or Endurance) dont known which one is the recommended for the setup, as for cams id just have to wait and see what the tunner recommends me. I'll have to Drill the heads to use 14mm head studs, The Short Block, I'll get the TIC 2+2 Track Closed Deck. Today I just got the Killer B New headers Max VE, It has a bigger secondary runner 2.5", wondering the results if its going to perform better than the standard killer b and the ETS V2 Max Flow.
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Oh yes ill definitelly do

I just received today the new Killer B Header Max VE only difference it has a bigger secondary runner 2.5", some people told me it can lag more than the standard one (smaller secondory runner) but i can make more power with the Max VE, What you think about that?
beautiful headers lol. i think killer b did testing and said if you arent going for 750+whp go with the regular, but if you are going for 750+whp go with the max ve. if you are worried best jsut call them to make sure you have the right one for your end goal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
beautiful headers lol. i think killer b did testing and said if you arent going for 750+whp go with the regular, but if you are going for 750+whp go with the max ve. if you are worried best jsut call them to make sure you have the right one for your end goal.
Im about to return it and get the standard killer b with the smaller secondary, dont think ill pass 650hp as much, do you know if the standard killer b 2 bolts flange fits with the ETS Up pipe outlet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have Gsc beehive, bc 272 and fluiddamper, 8k all day.
Did you upgrade the oem valves and guide or left the oem? I took my heads to the machine shop to cleaned them, they told me the valves still good and working fine. ill probaly buy a Coml23 compressor tool and install the springs and retainers myself to save a buck, im between ferrea(too expesive for a damm spring and retainers kit) or gsc, thing is i dont know if is worth to change the valves and the guides, not planning to port, just to refresh and polish the intake and exhaust port, and obviusly im upgrading the cams as well. We'll see, for now the heads is not the biggest priority. Main priority is getting the pre built closed deck block. My oem block still good but i think itll be more expensive to build it, specially if I sleeve it or do a closed deck conversion.
 
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