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Discussion Starter #261
Almost forgot, but I got these case halves over a year ago from some kid who was moving to California.

well, come to find out he broke a bolt in the rear oil seperator plate. Which isn't surprising, because that one bolt near the crank can be a PITA to remove.

I was attempting to drill it out, and my drill bit slipped and damaged the threads. So I got some JB weld, and filled the hole the best I could. I then tapped the JB weld, and threaded in the bolt with copious amounts of RTV and so far there are no leaks. but I'll keep an eye on it.

60156
 

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I know it is too late but if you can WPC anything that rubs... I t has been successful for me so far and the guys at motoiq really recommend it. I did main and rod bearings, but if I was to do it again I'd also do piston rings and maybe the camshaft itself again. Turner motorsport also sells wpc'ed parts for the bmws...
 

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Discussion Starter #264
Fired up the car, and no leaks but the car wouldn't idle right. Threw a crankshaft sensor code and cobb Flex fuel code.

Turns out, i forgot to plug in the flex fuel sensor so that was an easy fix.

I cleared the codes, tried to restart the car and it wouldn't start very well. Gave it some gas and it fired up but immediately threw the crankshaft code again and wouldn't idle right.

Checked timing, which was spot on, and pulled the crankshaft sensor to make sure it was clean.

upon inspection, it looks like i broke a crankshaft sprocket tooth. So this is why it wouldn't idle correct.

So I had to buy a new crankshaft sprocket, and take the timing belt off etc.

60158
 

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Discussion Starter #265
Once that was completed, I fired up the car and it ran so smooth.

There is almost 0 piston slap and it sounds almost like an OEM engine.

The comp MPC is amazing, and the pedal feel feels lighter than my wifes stock WRX clutch

the one difficult thing about it, is it grabs so hard and so low that I've stalled it a few times haha.

Drained the oil and found no metal fragments, but a small amount of RTV which was slightly concerning.
 

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Discussion Starter #266
Filled up with Amsoil 30w break-in oil and an OEM filter. and went out and did the break-in

I did 20x engine braking events, from 2500 to 4000,4500,5000,5500 and then letting the engine brake down to 2500.

I did 10x 8 psi WOT events from 2500 to 4000,4500,5000,5500,6000 and then letting it engine brake down to 2500.

Went back to the garage, drained the oil and seen a small amount of metal in the oil but none in the oil filter.

Oil pressures look solid
90 psi cold start
70 psi above 2500 RPMs
20 psi warm idle
 

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nice my warm idle is more like 14-16 with 10k but I did do oil porting.. but it is also time for an oil change again.. No more RTV?
 

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Discussion Starter #268
I put about 30 miles on the car and realized my AC wasn't working. I forgot to install the AC belt, so I ordered that and installed it.

but my AC compressor would not engage. So i started doing some troubleshooting and found out I had no refrigerant in the system. I added a little bit and it immediately shot out the low pressure side on the AC compressor, so i ordered new O-rings and installed those on the low and high side.

Added a bit of refrigerant and could hear it hissing out the low-pressure hose crimp near the oil fill tube. FML

So i ordered a new line from Subaru, and installed it.
Pulled vacuum, added refrigerant and the AC blows ice cold.

Went out to drive the car and when backing out I noticed a small pool of oil, so I pulled it back in and checked. It looked like the oil was leaking from the driver VC gasket, so i added oil dye and cleaned everything really good. Took it out to the store and back, and parked it.

Shined my UV light on it, and turns out the VC gasket was leaking pretty good right here.

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So I get a new VC gasket, pull the VC and cleaned it real good. Re-install it and it starts leaking again.

Also, it looks like the passenger VC gasket is leaking as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #269
This is how it sits as of today, and I've lost the will to fix it. so I'm unsure as to when it will get fixed. Its been non-stop since April and I'm burnt out.

Bonus pic of my buddies 09 Cobalt SS we're working on, as he cracked a cylinder sleeve(we think)
60160
 

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Discussion Starter #270
nice my warm idle is more like 14-16 with 10k but I did do oil porting.. but it is also time for an oil change again.. No more RTV?
So far so good.

I drained the 30w break-in oil and seen no RTV in that oil. and filled it up with O'reillys 10w-40 conventional.
 

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Discussion Starter #272
Good to see the new build is finally sorted. Looking forward to see what the the turbo can do when maxed out
Me too. I haven't driven it in because I cant figure out why my valve covers wont stop leaking. I took the engine out again, thinking it was the cam caps leaking, reinstalled the engine on Saturday and its stlll leaking.
 

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That's a strange one. I use silicone around the entire gasket and have never had issues.

I'm assuming that oil pressure is good and avcs functioning at it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #274
That's a strange one. I use silicone around the entire gasket and have never had issues.

I'm assuming that oil pressure is good and avcs functioning at it should.
Yeah, oil pressure is solid.

It only starts to leak once the oil gets warm. and Its only out of the RTV right behind the AVCS solenoids on the top of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
A local shop owner advised me to apply some RTV on the top of the valve cover gaskets as sometimes the corner of the VC where the RTV gets applied doesn't get enough or it folds and can cause a leak.

I pulled the intake manifold off last weekend and RTV'd it, but I've just been busy with other stuff and haven't really been focused on fixing it. I will be hopefully buttoning it up this week sometime and checking to see if the leak still exists.

if it does, I'll be towing it to the shop and having them take a look at it because I'm not sure what else to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Been a bit since I updated but car is running good.

A shop recommended I goop some RTV on the top of my VC gaskets to seal the continuous leak I've been having. It seems to have slowed the leak way down, but there is a small amount pooling on top still.


I have about 200 miles on the engine as I haven't been driving much due to my company having 100% work from home since March.

Engine feels really strong, and its extremely quiet for a built engine. There is almost no piston slap at all, compared to my last engine, but we'll have to see when it starts getting colder.

I just finished building my old engine for a friend of mine who needed a replacement. Due to the piston slap before, the machine shop required bore to 100mm as the bores were too ovaled to go to 99.75mm

This engine is

Mahle powerpak 100mm 4032 forged pistons
Eagle Forged H-beam rods
2016 STi Crank
King Pmax coat rod and main bearings.

I really liked these mahle pistons but their ring gap requirements were a bit extreme.

60657
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Well, i finally figured out the oil leak for good

And it was stupid

I thought I replaced the gaskets on my AVCS solenoids on top, but it turns out. I did not. I took the driver side off, and low and behold

no gasket
60788


So I went to subaru, got both sides, replaced and now there is 0 oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #278
Recently passed 550 miles on the built engine.

I am having an issue getting my injectors to seal correctly in the IAG TGV housings. I cant seem to get them to stop leaking boost, which is frustrating to say the least.

I think the fuel rail is pulling the injectors weird because IAG requires you to use a shim underneath.

I am contemplating selling the IAG TGV deletes and going with radiums TGV deletes + fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Been a minute since I updated this, but I ended up selling my IAG AOS and TGV deletes and going with Radium AOS, TGVs and Fuel rails. I also decided to convert my EBCS/EWG setup to 4AN because I was bored.

Car has been down since about November while I gathered parts to do the swap, and since its been cold I wasn't really working on it too much. I finished the fuel rail setup last weekend and ordered the rest of my parts for the EBCS so I'm hoping to have the car drivable in the next couple weeks.
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