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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Parts list...

ZZYZX Motorsports coilovers
6GunRacing 2004.5 hub/bearing conversion kit
Noltec camber/castor plates
Cusco camber plates
Carbotech Engineering brake rotors
5Zigen FN01R-C wheels, 17x8 +43 (caution, read on)

Geez, where to start...

We started with the rear wheels. We were sunlight limited after work so the initial goal was to get the rear knuckles off the car so we could press out the old bearings and hubs to get the new stuff in.

I STRONGLY encourage anybody who wants to do this conversion to find a *competent* machineshop to do this part. IMO it's worth the ~$100 you'll likely be charged. However, if you have access to a press like I do, and you don't mind doing it yourself, here are a few tips to make your life easier...

Pressing all the stuff out is easy. Just remove the snap ring and squeeze out the guts. Before you start pressing stuff in, make sure you *KNOW* the correct order to press it all in. We made a mistake. We forgot about the SNAP RING. We pressed the hubs into the bearings, and went to press the assembly into the knuckle, only to remember the snap ring. Backtracking is such a pain. So we get everything disassembled, and press the bearings into the knuckles first, *then* press in the hub.

If you don't have a press cylinder that's the exact diameter of the bearing going in don't sweat it, take the outter shell to a grinder and grind down the outside enough so that it's less than the inside diameter of the knuckle and use that, viola. When pressing the hub into the bearing keep in mind that the bearing is actually three parts, so you need to set it up to ensure that the guts of the bearing don't fall out in the process of getting the hub in. We did this by placing the hub face down on the press, using the hub itself, NOT the studs to support it, and used a press cylinder sized to match the inside portion of the bearings to bring the press down on. Don't forget the rubber seals, and you're good to go.

Actual reassembly of the parking brake drums wasn't really difficult, it was just annoying. Be persistent, stay patient, and call a buddy with an old hot rod if you really need help.

The fronts are a joke. Get a puller with a *very* thin claw, you don't have much room to grab the ABS gear with. We didn't even use a puller, the claws on the one I bought were too thin. We were able to remove them with pliars and a flat head screwdriver. When they're off, toss them in the oven for a few minutes and they should slip on the adapters without too much trouble.

Getting the ABS gear + adapter on the axle... first of all, don't even bother pulling the axle out of the transmission, you don't need to. In fact, don't even bother looking at 6GunRacing's instructions for this step, we found something better. Before bolting the '05 bearing/hub assembly up to the '05 front knuckle, you're going to use it to press the adapter on the axle. You do this by placing the adapter over the axle, and then put the bearing on behind it. Press the adapter flat up against the axle and you'll have enough thread left on the axle to get the axle nut on about half way, which is enough. Using a pry bar in the wheel studs to keep the axle from turning, tighten the axle nut until the adapter is pressed on the axle.

Everything else is pretty much straight forward. The ZZYZX Motorsports coilovers are absolutely beautful. The Carbotech brake rotors are excellent for the price (~$160 each), and the Noltec camber/castor plates are just *trick*.

If you plan on doing all of this yourself, expect at least a 12 hour day with a friend's help. If you have a shop disassemble and reassemble the rear hubs for you, expect it to take eight hours tops.

So after a long hard day of work, with a guestimate alignment... we go to bolt on the wheels.

They don't clear the brakes. ****.
 

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^ sweet man, I envy your ZZYZX coilovers :)

Sounds like a good amount of work, but will be worth it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
AndrewSS said:
^ sweet man, I envy your ZZYZX coilovers :)

Sounds like a good amount of work, but will be worth it :)
The only part that frustrated me was the pressing of the rear bearings/hubs. Hence the strong encouragement to find a good machine shop. I would say that I'd never do these again, but now that I've done them once doing them again won't be a big deal.

The rest of the work was cake. Aside from dealing with the parking brake assembly it wasn't much more involved than a standard coilover install.

I can't wait to drive on these coilovers, it sucks that I'm going to have to wait another week for another set of wheels to get here.
 

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^ that sure sucks about the wheels, but live and learn I guess :(

But yeah, you must be ready to take it out for a drive huh, hehe :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
AndrewSS said:
^ that sure sucks about the wheels, but live and learn I guess :(

But yeah, you must be ready to take it out for a drive huh, hehe :D
Well, even if I could drive the car I wouldn't be able to do too much. With the Noltec plates up front there's absolutely no way I can come close to getting a driveable driveway alignment. At this point I'm just hoping I have the damn things installed correctly. :lol:

What I was hoping, though... was to get the car to Atlanta later this week for a proper performance alignment, which may not happen now. :(
 

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whitson01 said:
(i kinda know why but) why would somone want to do this conversion?
04's have smaller (read weaker) wheel bearings. So we suffer more from knockback. IE when you take a corner really hard the hub flexes enough to actually allow the rotor push back the brake pads a bit. When corner is done everything flexes back to normal except the pads and now your pads are a bit further from the rotor than they normally are. This equates to longer pedal travel the next time you want to brake. This can be really scary to the novice racer. However after one brake, you are back to normal, until the next really hard turn. The simple solution is to tap the brakes when exiting a hard corner to reset the pads to normal position.

Swapping to 05 hubs gives you the bigger stronger wheel bearings and less knockback. If you are already going to be replacing a wheel bearing this can be a good idea if you routinely suffer from knockback at the track.
 

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Mykl said:
Well, even if I could drive the car I wouldn't be able to do too much. With the Noltec plates up front there's absolutely no way I can come close to getting a driveable driveway alignment. At this point I'm just hoping I have the damn things installed correctly. :lol:

What I was hoping, though... was to get the car to Atlanta later this week for a proper performance alignment, which may not happen now. :(
I have the noltec plate, just make sure you have em in the right orientation, they are a bit of a tricky plate to get right, also you might find it worthwhile to bore them out some so you can get good caster and camber... moral of the story is I am much happier with my PDE V2 plates, that I will switch out the noltecs when the RCE springs arrive.

Anyway, hope ya get em right (maybe check your struts in the plate bearing to see if the bearings are working correctly, my friend with the noltec race plate had a bearing problem).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
RabidSTi said:
04's have smaller (read weaker) wheel bearings. So we suffer more from knockback. IE when you take a corner really hard the hub flexes enough to actually allow the rotor push back the brake pads a bit. When corner is done everything flexes back to normal except the pads and now your pads are a bit further from the rotor than they normally are. This equates to longer pedal travel the next time you want to brake. This can be really scary to the novice racer. However after one brake, you are back to normal, until the next really hard turn. The simple solution is to tap the brakes when exiting a hard corner to reset the pads to normal position.

Swapping to 05 hubs gives you the bigger stronger wheel bearings and less knockback. If you are already going to be replacing a wheel bearing this can be a good idea if you routinely suffer from knockback at the track.
What damaged my old front wheel bearings was a couple of track days with Carbotech XP8 brake pads up front. If I *only* used my car for autocross, and never put my bearings through that much heat, I probably never would have considered doing this. But at the rate I like doing track days it almost seems like this is a necessary upgrade. Autocrossing was getting painful... I couldn't control my brake pedal with any accuracy, I had to stab at it and hope the ABS kicked in.

AndrewSS said:
I have the noltec plate, just make sure you have em in the right orientation, they are a bit of a tricky plate to get right, also you might find it worthwhile to bore them out some so you can get good caster and camber... moral of the story is I am much happier with my PDE V2 plates, that I will switch out the noltecs when the RCE springs arrive.

Anyway, hope ya get em right (maybe check your struts in the plate bearing to see if the bearings are working correctly, my friend with the noltec race plate had a bearing problem).
After a quick search I see that I definitely have mine in wrong. No big deal to swap them around. Seems like such a small amount of work after everything else. That and my car is still on jack stands.... so uh, it's no big deal. lol

What do you mean by "bore them out?" I would like to think that between the slots in the coilovers and the plates I should be able to get more camber and castor than I'll ever want. When I pull them back out I'll play with them a bit just to ensure they're working properly.

Why are you getting rid of yours for camber only plates? Is the extra castor not really worth it?
 

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I mean this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667681&highlight=Noltec

I like how the PDE v2 doesnt raise the car as much, is already pre drilled for caster orientation and will still give me my expected gains in camber, with the noltec you kinda gotta set it in camber only orientation (lke it isnow in my car, but that took away some caster!) so its a good idea to mod the plate some (but you being on coilovers makes things a bit better, ie height, etc).
 

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Mykl said:
:cool:

That makes two of us here... I wonder how many other '04 owners are going to do this. I take it you got all the parts from 6Gun?
I believe there are about 15 or so of us. The only offset of those wheels that's going to fit is the 35, and while you're at it go ahead and roll your fenders :)
 

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ascelon said:
I believe there are about 15 or so of us. The only offset of those wheels that's going to fit is the 35, and while you're at it go ahead and roll your fenders :)
Yeah there are right at 15 including me, 2 kits sold this week. 1 or 2 of the 15 have been for WRXs though... ;)
 

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javid said:
Yeah there are right at 15 including me, 2 kits sold this week. 1 or 2 of the 15 have been for WRXs though... ;)
bastages! oh, btw, did you get my voicemail regarding the abs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ascelon said:
I believe there are about 15 or so of us. The only offset of those wheels that's going to fit is the 35, and while you're at it go ahead and roll your fenders :)
The +43 17x9 will fit, which is what I should have ordered in the first place. Live and learn I suppose.

javid said:
Yeah there are right at 15 including me, 2 kits sold this week. 1 or 2 of the 15 have been for WRXs though... ;)
Wow, I thought there would have been more than that, but I guess this kit really hasn't been out too terribly long.

What are those WRX guys doing about the rear? Running dual pattern wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh, and I can officially say that the pad knockback is gone. The brake pedal feels great.
 

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Mykl said:
The +43 17x9 will fit, which is what I should have ordered in the first place. Live and learn I suppose.



Wow, I thought there would have been more than that, but I guess this kit really hasn't been out too terribly long.

What are those WRX guys doing about the rear? Running dual pattern wheels?
Sales of this kit are 'slow' as we expected when we developed it but have grown each month since the spring when we released them, I think the word is spreading. Prodrive USA actualy called the other day and asked how / what we did to convert. Hopefully they will pick up a number of kits for their dedicated Rally customers.

I expect more people to convert this winter, as most serious track / autoX guys take the winter off to modify / repair for the next season.

One WRX converted to R180 and I believe that the other runs a dual pattern wheel. The customer that converted to the R180 dropped 5 seconds at his last time trial (compared to previous lap times as well as times compared to other cars he has run with through out his time trial season). He was making close to 400 whp and trying to put it down through an open rear diff and 225 tires. He moved up to 255 tires. I figured 1 second for added braking / confidence with no knockback, 2 for the tires and 2 for the rear diff. We were very happy for him and his success with the mods. :)
 
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