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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all you cool cats and kittens,

Long story short a few months back my timing belt snapped and did some nice work on my valves, getting it ready to be towed to shop next week for my rebuild. I got quoted 4200 bucks P+L for the rebuild including the timing belt kit with kevlar blue TB but I am also adding the killer B oil pickup and coolant mod for cyl 4. We also talked about wiseco pistons, anyone have any info on those or if they have them and how they like them? Any other pistons I should consider? I'm not looking for huge power gains with my subi I actually like it a lot how it is now, this car mainly goes on long road trips a few times a year and only drives on curvy roads I can find at home. I'm not looking for a "reliable STi" like some people ask cause I know what I got myself into but when it comes to this car/rebuild does anyone have any other rec's to add that could help keep it running good "near" stock power levels for a while? Thanks
 

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Fuck you carol baskins.


On a side note, don't put 2618 forged pistons in for the power you want. Stick with an oem shortblock.

If you are have to put pistons in, I'd be talking to them about a low expansion forged 4032 piston like Mahle power packs or RCM/Omega low expansion pistons
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fuck you carol baskins.


On a side note, don't put 2618 forged pistons in for the power you want. Stick with an oem shortblock.

If you are have to put pistons in, I'd be talking to them about a low expansion forged 4032 piston like Mahle power packs or RCM/Omega low expansion pistons
hahahaha thanks buddy. Honestly I was considering going with a new OE short block and taking the old one and building that one up later down the road if I want to do that. Someone mentioned getting the new type RA short block but I couldn't find any info if that would actually work cause they say it has thicker "piston crowns"?
 

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hahahaha thanks buddy. Honestly I was considering going with a new OE short block and taking the old one and building that one up later down the road if I want to do that. Someone mentioned getting the new type RA short block but I couldn't find any info if that would actually work cause they say it has thicker "piston crowns"?
If you really are planning on staying stockish just find a low mile used long block. If you think you may want over 350whp at some point check out a Grocery Getter: “Grocery Getter” Long Rod Forged Shortblock
We have lots of these running around with well over 400whp out in the wild.

If you need a low mile stock engine we have a few take outs available. Otherwise our Outfront forged motors generally ship within a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you really are planning on staying stockish just find a low mile used long block. If you think you may want over 350whp at some point check out a Grocery Getter: “Grocery Getter” Long Rod Forged Shortblock
We have lots of these running around well over 400whp out in the wild.

If you need a low mile stock engine we have a few take outs available. Otherwise our Outfront forged motors generally ship within a week.
Thanks! Checking it out as we speak.
 

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hahahaha thanks buddy. Honestly I was considering going with a new OE short block and taking the old one and building that one up later down the road if I want to do that. Someone mentioned getting the new type RA short block but I couldn't find any info if that would actually work cause they say it has thicker "piston crowns"?

Got u fam


it will 100% work for you, as its just an EJ257 short block with upgraded pistons. The ringlands are thicker and I believe the piston skirt near the wrist pin is thicker too.


JR said you could make 450-500 whp on this thing pretty comfortably assuming you keep detonation in control. I wouldn't try, but for stock turbo up to 20g this is what I'd run.

If you feel comfortable taking it apart, I'd pop the pistons out and file the rings down a bit more.
 

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Got u fam


it will 100% work for you, as its just an EJ257 short block with upgraded pistons. The ringlands are thicker and I believe the piston skirt near the wrist pin is thicker too.


JR said you could make 450-500 whp on this thing pretty comfortably assuming you keep detonation in control. I wouldn't try, but for stock turbo up to 20g this is what I'd run.

If you feel comfortable taking it apart, I'd pop the pistons out and file the rings down a bit more.
Thanks dude! Thats a pretty good deal actually, I haven't asked the shop yet how much it would be if I just bought that short block vs rebuild the current one. Would buying that short block save on some labor costs or will I come out about the same/more? Just curious, never had to do this before and don't know how much extra/less labor is if you just buy a new short block and have them install it, I'm assuming there's still lots of work involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Update- sorry it's been a while been busy working and hoping my job doesn't start furloughing...

shop took the motor out, lo and behold 6 bent valves, metal shavings found in the oil ring land on cyls 2 and 4 that I would have found out about soon after anyways and basically a lot more damage internally than I was expecting. My shop basically said I could rebuild if I wanted to or have them toss in a new Subaru short block with JE pistons and rebuild heads or, at this point am I better off just buying a brand new long block? I was looking at the IAG stage2/3 long blocks and at this point I'm already gonna be spending the money should I just get a IAG longblock and take care of anything else oil could touch? Or would you just stick with rebuilding the whole thing? Just would like some advice on the matter I've never dealt with this before. I know I am forgetting some things w/ what my mechanic told me, 3 different options, lots of numbers. At this point money doesn't matter anymore I just want it fixed and not to explode or shite a rod next week.
 

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This will depend on what you want to do with the car and also if you plan to keep it. I think the best way to do this is to do it right the first time. If money isnt an issue, then go for the IAG long block. This way everything is assembled by them and ready to go. I would also recommend replacing anything and everything that oil has touched. That means avcs cam gears, turbo, oil feed and return lines, oil pump, oil pick up, and oil pan. Im sure there are other things im forgetting.

Since you will be going for a built long block with forged internals and upgraded heads, this is your opertunity to reap the benifits of this and go for a large turbo and up the power on the car. Also dont forget to upgrade the clutch while everything is out.

If you end up going the long block route, make a goal and go about achieving it. I would highly recommend you have 1 shop do all the work on the car start to finish.
 

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This will depend on what you want to do with the car and also if you plan to keep it. I think the best way to do this is to do it right the first time. If money isnt an issue, then go for the IAG long block. This way everything is assembled by them and ready to go. I would also recommend replacing anything and everything that oil has touched. That means avcs cam gears, turbo, oil feed and return lines, oil pump, oil pick up, and oil pan. Im sure there are other things im forgetting.

Since you will be going for a built long block with forged internals and upgraded heads, this is your opertunity to reap the benifits of this and go for a large turbo and up the power on the car. Also dont forget to upgrade the clutch while everything is out.

If you end up going the long block route, make a goal and go about achieving it. I would highly recommend you have 1 shop do all the work on the car start to finish.

Thanks man! So here's what I am doing and it should be done next week I cannot wait to get it back.

New Subaru nitraded shortblock with forged pistons and rods, ACL race bearings,
stainless exhaust/intake valves and GSC stage 2 cams, GSC valve springs w/ titanium retainers,
AEM 340 pump, ID1050X injectors, Blouch domn 1.5xt 8cm turbo, grimmspeed boost control solenoid, CSF racing alum. radiator, Air pump delete kit, TGV delete, Stage 3 clutch and flywheel, Tomei turbo inlet, killer b oil pan package. It's kind of hard to read it all right now but hopefully this will help beef up the motor and get it driving soon and I'll be able to go front mount sometime soon and downpipe and few other mods but for now this is what I'll start with.

I already have invidia catback and Cobb intake.

Hopefully I can get some decent power out of this and it'll run a lot better this time around
 

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If you need a hand with parts or tuning we're happy to help.

Josh

Thanks man! So here's what I am doing and it should be done next week I cannot wait to get it back.

New Subaru nitraded shortblock with forged pistons and rods, ACL race bearings,
stainless exhaust/intake valves and GSC stage 2 cams, GSC valve springs w/ titanium retainers,
AEM 340 pump, ID1050X injectors, Blouch domn 1.5xt 8cm turbo, grimmspeed boost control solenoid, CSF racing alum. radiator, Air pump delete kit, TGV delete, Stage 3 clutch and flywheel, Tomei turbo inlet, killer b oil pan package. It's kind of hard to read it all right now but hopefully this will help beef up the motor and get it driving soon and I'll be able to go front mount sometime soon and downpipe and few other mods but for now this is what I'll start with.

I already have invidia catback and Cobb intake.

Hopefully I can get some decent power out of this and it'll run a lot better this time around
 
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