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I performed the mod last night after searching around for the stuff needed. NAPA did not have the quick disconnect fuel line piece, so I ended up heading to Oreilly. They sold this part under the name fuel injection line repair kit. Met a nice 06 STI owner there.
I first pulled the fp fuse and opened the gas cap, then ran the car until it died. This did not relieve all pressure. I got a nice spray of high pressure gasoline after removing the line. I think you should restart the car after it dies to try and pull more fuel. I used 3 ft as suggested, and that made 2 coils. I tucked the coils vertically and zipped in place on the existing fuel lines. It does feel very smooth, but I get some odd knock in places I never saw it before. There was 0 knock on a 3rd gear wot pull. However, just hitting the throttle at idle shows 4.8 flashing on fine knock learn. This also happens when i quickly downshift. I will continue to monitor this and see if I can log it. Not sure if anyone else has seen this phenomenon. I hope this mod doesn't cause a delay in instantaneous fuel flow, which makes it lean for a second.
As always, there can be more to the story.

Even as many of us are enjoying the results of the fuel line fix....

This just in: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38891617&postcount=14

This was an STi with larger injectors, but with the fuel line mod.

The poster's credentials are gold, but without knowing the MAF CAL of the car involved I'm personally watching development. The LC tables and MAF CAL work together to produce fuel trim corrections. A car with a stock air intake system and a stock MAF CAL would make the best test platform here, IMO. I doubt the '09 with the ID1000s used has a stock airbox, but don't know for sure.
 
As always, there can be more to the story.

Even as many of us are enjoying the results of the fuel line fix....

This just in: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=38891617&postcount=14

This was an STi with larger injectors, but with the fuel line mod.

The poster's credentials are gold, but without knowing the MAF CAL of the car involved I'm personally watching development. The LC tables and MAF CAL work together to produce fuel trim corrections. A car with a stock air intake system and a stock MAF CAL would make the best test platform here, IMO. I doubt the '09 with the ID1000s used has a stock airbox, but don't know for sure.
That may explain why I am seeing knock right off idle. I am completely stock, with a k&n drop in and stage 1 91 octane LWG map.
 
That may explain why I am seeing knock right off idle. I am completely stock, with a k&n drop in and stage 1 91 octane LWG map.
Did you modify your LC tables? If not, you may want to try setting them to 20% then observe results.

My own car has an AEM CAI. And my LC tables are different from OEM, part of the base tune from Cobb for that intake. A stock intake, and therefore a tune based on that intake, will likely have different LC tables.

That said, I have spent a LOT of time refineing my MAF CAL, and have very small LTFTs. My car also did not suffer from any stumbles or stutter before the fuel line mod... but it works a LOT better with it, and with 20% of my LC tables. It would be my guess that, in your case, you might want to modify your LC tables in addition to the mod.
 
Looks like I spoke too soon. I was reviewing my logs and found #2 cylinder still has 1 count of knock as soon as I hit the throttle on my WOT 3rd gear run. There is also a lot of feedback knock in the log, but no fine knock learn. This car has me so angry. I don't know what else to do. The dealer can't seem to "find" any problems, but all they do is drive it around. They think it is normal, but I know I have consistent knock in cylinder 2. I don't know why that knock only happens in odd situations, while not appearing at the highest loads and engine speeds. This fuel line mod makes the car so smooth, but I will have to change it back to stock if I want anything looked at under warranty. If I had the money, I would probably trade this thing in tomorrow.
 
Did you modify your LC tables? If not, you may want to try setting them to 20% then observe results.

My own car has an AEM CAI. And my LC tables are different from OEM, part of the base tune from Cobb for that intake. A stock intake, and therefore a tune based on that intake, will likely have different LC tables.

That said, I have spent a LOT of time refineing my MAF CAL, and have very small LTFTs. My car also did not suffer from any stumbles or stutter before the fuel line mod... but it works a LOT better with it, and with 20% of my LC tables. It would be my guess that, in your case, you might want to modify your LC tables in addition to the mod.
I haven't changed any tables. Cobb's ATR software only works with PC and we only own Mac. I am stuck just using the OTS stage 1 map, set to LWG for some added safety. I could switch to the most conservative map (STG1 91 ACN LWG), but that never worked in my previous attempts to fix this POS. I really wish I could just leave the fuel line mod on there and take it to the dealership. I am just afraid they will blame that if they find a cracked piston.
 
Here are the logs, if anyone is interested:

4th gear WOT before fuel line mod
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxo-JTUSWeXqVWw3cFVIQjBvVkE/edit

3rd gear WOT after fuel line mod
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxo-JTUSWeXqQlVGdmhFaHpaalE/edit
Is the knock you're referring to just the -1.4 that goes away?? That won't crack your piston. IMO it is the result of slamming your pedal down to go WOT. I may be wrong, but you didn't log your pedal. To prevent this I usually apply a little brake, gently increase pedal, and transition into WOT. Otherwise, you will have too much timing for the sudden load when the pedal is suddenly pushed all the way to the floor.

This applies to all driving... g r a d u a l pedal movements will decrease/eliminate not only knock that you see there, but Knock Sums in places you may not be looking as well. Transitioning gradually allows all parameters to adjust. Plus you get better gas mileage.

I also note your LTFT range D, the one that affects OL fueling, is very good at .78 so your MAF CAL is working well (assuming you have a few miles on the tune at the time). However, trim corrections will be off unless the LC tables are adjusted. I'm not certain, but I think there are accommodations for those Macs. Check with Cobb.

Again, I see no problem with that log. The slight knock is (ahem :D) your fault, not the tune or the car, and is only that one hiccup that is quickly learned away. :)
 
Is the knock you're referring to just the -1.4 that goes away?? That won't crack your piston. IMO it is the result of slamming your pedal down to go WOT. I may be wrong, but you didn't log your pedal. To prevent this I usually apply a little brake, gently increase pedal, and transition into WOT. Otherwise, you will have too much timing for the sudden load when the pedal is suddenly pushed all the way to the floor.

This applies to all driving... g r a d u a l pedal movements will decrease/eliminate not only knock that you see there, but Knock Sums in places you may not be looking as well. Transitioning gradually allows all parameters to adjust. Plus you get better gas mileage.

I also note your LTFT range D, the one that affects OL fueling, is very good at .78 so your MAF CAL is working well (assuming you have a few miles on the tune at the time). However, trim corrections will be off unless the LC tables are adjusted. I'm not certain, but I think there are accommodations for those Macs. Check with Cobb.

Again, I see no problem with that log. The slight knock is (ahem :D) your fault, not the tune or the car, and is only that one hiccup that is quickly learned away. :)
Look at cylinder 2 knock count. It has knock as soon as the throttle is pressed. This is not normal according to Cobb. I did log throttle, bit google didn't seem to carry that over.
 
i have been working on this problem for a few weeks now and figured I would share my experience so far.

I have tried the iaperformance kit and had no luck. I then tried to add another damper on the feed line which then gave me 2 dampers on the feed line and had no luck. It was better with 2 dampers but had to add quite a bit to the compensation tables. With all this being said I have left the old style FPR and one damper on the return line. I then went with one damper and the 3' hose and this worked well but didn't like the coiled up hose under the hood. The last think I could think of doing was removing all the dampers on the feed line completely and zeroing out the comp tables. No dampers on the feed line with the old style FPR and old style damper seemed to do the trick, it will still need a very small amount of tweaking of the compensation tables but this is the best and cleanest fix I could come up with. Only other thing I would want to try is a full fuel rail set up but that cost some $$$$.

There is a kit out there by lucas performance concepts which is a kit that removes all dampers and has the old style FPR. I would buy that before an iaperf kit.
 
Update:

I removed all dampers in the system and added a turbosmart FPR and all the stumbles are gone with the comp tables set to ZERO! The car has never been more smooth!

So for me the fix was no dampers and an aftermarket FPR...
 
Update:

I removed all dampers in the system and added a turbosmart FPR and all the stumbles are gone with the comp tables set to ZERO! The car has never been more smooth!

So for me the fix was no dampers and an aftermarket FPR...
Interesting. I like this idea, as it is cleaner than adding all that hose. It would be nice to see if it works for a few GR guys.
 
Has anyone had the stumble come back?

I have a 100% stock 08, and I had the stumble from 3rd gear up. I installed the longer line and for the last month it has been great. However, on Friday it started happening again, and today I can say with certainty that it is back, 3rd through 6th.
 
Has anyone had the stumble come back?

I have a 100% stock 08, and I had the stumble from 3rd gear up. I installed the longer line and for the last month it has been great. However, on Friday it started happening again, and today I can say with certainty that it is back, 3rd through 6th.
You do not mention what you did to the LC tables... which was the second part of the mod.
 
i had the stumble come back with the added line because you still need to add comps to the table. The way I have it now has zero comps so no corrections are needed. If no comps are needed the stumble will stay away.
 
You do not mention what you did to the LC tables... which was the second part of the mod.
I haven't done anything to change the tables because the car is really 100% stock. There are no modifications on it, not an AP or Protune, no larger injectors, turbo, intake... literally nothing. All 100% factory.

I suppose there is no way to fix this without tuning then?
 
You can fix it mechanically, that is the issue.

Like i stated in an earlier post, i tried many things to fix it and finally came up with a solution.
 
You can fix it mechanically, that is the issue.

Like i stated in an earlier post, i tried many things to fix it and finally came up with a solution.
Any indications of this issue coming back since you installed the FPR? What tuning application are you using?

I do not have, nor do I really want to tune this car. I have modified cars in the past and that is one reason I wanted a stock sti. I want to stay stock for many reasons, so if this problem can be fixed without modifying the ecu that is the route I want to go.

So, is it possible to fix this without modifying the ecu?
 
No, it wont come back because my comp table is all set to 0. I use romraider and setting the tables to 0 is easy, but i normally let my tuner mess with that stuff. Well the comp tables are a band-aid from the factory so yea u can do what i did and leave the comps but there is no need for them, it will be a more reliable tune without them.
 
I haven't done anything to change the tables because the car is really 100% stock. There are no modifications on it, not an AP or Protune, no larger injectors, turbo, intake... literally nothing. All 100% factory.

I suppose there is no way to fix this without tuning then?
You can fix it mechanically, that is the issue.

Like i stated in an earlier post, i tried many things to fix it and finally came up with a solution.
You can not fix the situation solely by mechanical means. It is a mechanical issue, but once you remedy that, you now have a tuning issue that is reminiscent of a band-aid fix for it.

The LC tables in the STOCK ROM or any aftermarket ROM most likely use the load comp tables to account for the fueling issue. Removing the mechanical issue will still leave that compensation in the ROM. It won't be the end of the world, but you'll certainly be running rich around cruise.
 
yep what he said

I had my tuner make me a map with 0 comps and just tried things till i solved the issue with 0 comps. Some one on here can do that for you. Using Ecuflash is easy, you can then switch back and forth from ur stock map to the 0 comps map.
 
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